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To modify a 40 summicron


Bmorena

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I used the web link instructions to modify my lens and it is a very easy to do.

 

The 40-C is my favorite lens on film cameras and now on the M8.

To mount a UV IR filter on it, I bought a lens hood and series 5.5 adapter made specifically for the lens from HeavyStars on ebay.

The adapter has S5.5 threads on one side and 39mm threads on the other for the hood.

I can now use a standard 39mm UV IR filter! The hood is very nice as well, not too big and well made. A great solution for US$29.99.

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Just some additional information for the use of the Summicron 40 on the M8. You will want to use a IR-cut filter on the lens. there are three options.

 

You can try to screw in a E39 filter, but the thread is different. It will go in for half a turn and hang in there, but you risk damage to the filter thread.

 

The best way is to get a series 5.5 adapter (11251). Those are easily found on E-Bay. The glass from a B&W 486 filter is an exact fit in lieu of an old type 5.5 filter, which doesn't exist anyway. I do not know of a lens hood that will fit onto this adapter, however.

 

Secondly, Heavystar sells a Summicron 40 --> E39 adapter with a lenshood included.

You can screw a regular E39 filter into there.

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Update on the 'frame locker' thing:

Yesterday I was with Will van Manen to fetch my M2 and showed him what I did to the M8.

He confirmed there was no danger of damage to the camera in any way!

Perfect solution if you do want a cheap and reversable solution to use 35 mm frames on the 40cron.

 

The only caution is that you do not want to make it too thick, so that the upwards force on the lever is not excessive when you insert it.

 

When you want to code the lens it is better to have it modified as well. In fact if he codes a 40cron, he always modifies it to make the coding working properly. The code seems to work together with the selected frame to trigger the appropriate correction in the M8.

 

That said, I decided to have the worst of my 40crons serviced, modified and coded by him. It needed service anyway because it suffered from pre-focus and haze.

Adding coding to the job seemed the logical step.

 

BTW: Will did a marvelous job on the M2. Good as new! Looking forward to use my uncoded 40cron on this one with the frame locker...

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Hi guys,

 

Here is the solution that 'does not exist' according to some :D

I used a cap of a film roll box. Cut a smal pie-shaped piece of it and then stuck it under the frame lever.

 

Make sure your 'frame-locker' fits with just the right amount of pressure to keep it in place and not too much so that you do not bend the lever.

 

Have been using this solution on my M2 and M8 for a few weeks now and it seems to work fine.

 

The first image shows the 'frame-locker' in place under the lever with the 40cron mounted.

The second shows it on the viewfinder of my M8 to give you an idea of size.

Not very practical when changing lenses or wanting to use the lever as intended...
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Update on the 'frame locker' thing:

Yesterday I was with Will van Manen to fetch my M2 and showed him what I did to the M8.

He confirmed there was no danger of damage to the camera in any way!

Perfect solution if you do want a cheap and reversable solution to use 35 mm frames on the 40cron.

 

The only caution is that you do not want to make it too thick, so that the upwards force on the lever is not excessive when you insert it.

 

When you want to code the lens it is better to have it modified as well. In fact if he codes a 40cron, he always modifies it to make the coding working properly. The code seems to work together with the selected frame to trigger the appropriate correction in the M8.

 

That said, I decided to have the worst of my 40crons serviced, modified and coded by him. It needed service anyway because it suffered from pre-focus and haze.

Adding coding to the job seemed the logical step.

 

BTW: Will did a marvelous job on the M2. Good as new! Looking forward to use my uncoded 40cron on this one with the frame locker...

 

Your solution for the 35mm frames when using the 40 Cron C isn't needed. The 40 on the CL was the standard lens and the viewfinder for that camera didn't go below that and the 40mm lines are fixed, always showing, just like the 50mm lines on the M3. So no matter what you do to the mount lug if you used that lens on a CL the 40mm lines are still there. On all other M's, that have 35mm frames, if you leave the mount lug alone it brings up the 50mm lines which is farther away from the focal length of the lens then 35 frames are. And with your solution there is a possibility of bending the frame lever.

 

Quit foolish IMHO.

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Problem is to know if the 50mm frame lines may be more accurate in some circumstances IMHO. The 35mm frame lines are more accurate with my Epsons but i don't know if it is the same with the M8, M8.2 and M9.

 

The M8 frames are tight so the 35 frames work OK for the 40. On M8.2/9 the 35 frames will still give you a better representation of what is in the photo then the 50 frames. But neither are correct.

 

I see no reason to NOT cut the mount lug on the 40 so the frame lever (frame lines) doesn't move from it @ rest position without a lens mounted. Which give you the 35mm frames on all M's that have 35mm frames.

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Maybe you do not have to modify the lens. Recently I found a way to 'lock' the frame choice lever of my M8 in the desired position. This gives me the 35mm frame any time I want it. So my 40cron is untouched.

 

I do not have the time now to post some images of the solution. Give me a few hours and I will.

Dirk, How do you lock the frame choic lever???? :)

Just answered my question.

Edited by drdannn
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Original M8 frames is the best for Summicron-c, practically 100% view with 35 frame, I think this is the best normal lens on M8, very compact.

Picasa Web Albums - R S - Summicron-C 40mm

 

Image deleted by Moderator: The Forum maximum image size is 960 pixels on the longest side and around 300kb file size.

Edited by andybarton
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