Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Leica9787

Panorama Camera in NYC

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I just bought an M3 with a goggled Summaron f3.5, and it obviously hasn't been used in decades. I live in New York City, and was thinking of trying out Panorama Camera in Manhattan--has anyone had any experiences with Leica repairs at this camera repair shop?

 

The inside of the Summaron also looks a bit cloudy--not sure what it is exactly, but is it common to have the inside lens elements successfully cleaned? It looks scratch-free...

 

I am very, very excited about getting this camera up and running, it's my first Leica!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By karthikrr
      Hi,
      Found this lovely forum while searching for info on a Leica R4 body described as having a "small problem". It belongs to a friend who gave me the option of buying it off him cheap, in its existing state, and trying to fix it and re-sell to a collector. I have been reading up on this and trying a few things and had a couple observations and questions that I am hoping the experts in this forum can help me with.
      1) When I received it, I discovered that the shutter was not just firing with a delay, it was stuck and unusable. The film advance lever was stuck as well, indicating that the shutter probably froze midway through its cycle. The mirror was down, but the DOF preview lever was "loose". 
      2) The battery LED would light, but there was no activity in the viewfinder, meaning no leds or anything at all. The camera seemed dead. New batteries did not change anything. 
      3) After a fair bit of research, I found a thread (unsure where) that suggested "smacking" the camera bottom on a bed or similar soft surface. Somewhat frustrated, I did this, and it actually worked. The shutter finished its cycle and the film advance lever was working again, AND the viewfinder leds worked. I checked the meter and it seems fine too.
      4) Advance the lever (no film), press the shutter, and same exact problem. But over many tests, I discovered that in B and 100, both mechanical modes, it would sometimes fire with a big delay, and other times get completely stuck. Smacking always releases the shutter.
      5) Based on many threads in this forum, I believe this problem is typically related to dirty magnetic dampers. However, I find mixed information on how to reach the magnets. There was one thread that suggested it can be reached from the bottom plate and is easy, while another suggested it is behind the dof preview lever and complicated to reach, requiring some degree of disassembly. Unfortunately, I did not find information on WHAT disassembly is required.
      6) In the meantime, I have also found that in all of the electronic modes (manual operation, but shutter speed electronic), the shutter button actually never fully depresses and therefore the shutter never fires at all. It feels like a half-press only in the electronic modes. In the mechanical mode, I can clearly see and feel the shutter go much deeper and actuate something. 
      So my questions:
      1) Is the shutter button behaving normally? Is there something else I am missing, as to why the shutter button won't fully depress in electronic mode, but works in mechanical mode?
      2) If its the dampers, do I go from the bottom or the top? In any case, how do I get the top plate off and get any sort of serious disassembly done on this camera? I see one screw in the back, by the eye-piece control dial, and know that the top most screw on the mount holds the top plate down. But are those the only two screws? What else do I need to remove to get the top plate off? I am guessing the film rewind lever (on the left side, over the ISO dial) needs to come off, and the entire ISO dial mechanism probably needs to be lifted off too. What about on the right side, how do I get under the film advance lever and the shutter control?
      3) Given the fact that the meter seems to work properly, I am guessing the electronics on this sample are okay (its a 156xxxx serial number). But just to be sure, if the electronics are toast, how do I know this? 
      Any help/advice is appreciated, including an opinion on what price its worth buying at and then trying to fix it so I can keep it for myself, OR sell in working condition to a collector. A warning that it might be more valuable sold off to a collector in present condition than executing a botched repair and destroying its value completely is also taken in the right spirit. 
      Thanks,
      Karthik
      PS - I literally went thru every single page of the English forum looking for answers. Now after posting, I see threads related to this in the German forum! Is there a way for me to search on the other language forums? Any pointers appreciated, but please understand that I did a pretty comprehensive search and processed what information I already found before making this thread
    • Guest
      By Guest
      Hallo zusammen,
      da ich mich über meine Neuerwerbung sehr freue, muss ich dies hier kund tun. Ich habe zuletzt etliche Jahre mit einer Leica X1 fotografiert, dann bin ich vor 5 Jahren auf eine M9 umgestiegen. Damit fotografiere ich regelmäßig und es macht mir eine Menge Spaß.
      Als Erbstück von meinen Eltern (meine Mutter war Fotografin) habe ich eine Leica IIIc (Baujahr 1949) mit einem Summitar (von 1951) 5 cm, 1:2, die sich - damit Objektiv - in einem sehr schönen und voll funktionsfähigen Zustand befindet. Damit habe ich in den letzten Wochen 2 Filme belichtet, um zu sehen, ob ich überhaupt noch analog und jede Automatik fotografieren kann. Es hat funktioniert.
      Da die Schraubleica nicht wirklich einfach in der Handhabung ist (Sucherfenster und Entfernungsmesser separat) habe ich über die Anschaffung einer M3 oder M2 nachgedacht.
      Für die M3 spricht, dass Sie über einen besonders großen Fenster verfügt.
      Für die M2 sprach ihr Aussehen (sehr schlicht - sehr schön) und die Tatsache, dass man mit ihr problemlos ein 35 mm Objektiv nutzen kann.
      Nun ist es eine M3 - Kauf per Ebay (trotz grundsätzlicher Bedenken) geworden und ich kann meine Leica-Optiken (meistgenutzt: 50 mm) für den Oldtimer nutzen.
      Ich bin gespannt darauf, sie in der Hand zu halten und den ersten Film zurück zu erhalten.
      Beste Grüße
      Dieter M.
    • By mr_bom
      Hello members,
      I’m curious about the new Summaron-M 28mm 5.6
      It’s Focusing tab stuck at the framelines selector and cannot go to close focus. 
      Does this occurs to every M-body that has rectangle framelines selector? 😅
      Thanks in advance
      Thatchapon

      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
    • By TheGodParticle/Hari
      Most of us seem to be photographers as well as collectors.
      Show me your favorite lenses, old and new alike.
      I like the Noctilux range for the extreme apertures, but I prefer the Summilux range for the best speed:size/weight ratio.
      Here’s a Summilux gathering of 21, 24, 28, 35, 50 and 75mm. All in black. 

      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
    • By Glere
      Hi! I have a mint Leica R7, worked always without any issue but today I noticed when attaching the Summicron the "A" (full and centered) modes were no displaying when changing the modes (it displayed "m" and even the controls were manual), the same for the program mode (where it said time priority").

      is it possible that maybe the metal contact of the selector needs a clean or the electronic has a big problem? or what can it be?

      (the lens I'm using is a "R only" lens, I had the R4s2 before and it functioned in all modes with no problems)
      Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue., Read more about our Privacy Policy