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[Boojay]

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Think I'm probably about to waste a roll of film but will enjoy the process.  I seem to have become a member of this club thanks to a late night trawl of the famous auction site and pressing the buy it now option on a package.  Very pleasantly surprised (shocked) when package arrived... there was no information on the camera or the lens.  Having checked out seriel numbers seems this is a 111c (1946/7).    Lens is red scale Elmar and I did manage to eventually read the seriel number  which places it from 1953, other two that came with it Jupiter 9 85/2, 11 135/4 - all optics seems good, all with proper caps and filters.  Have tried out all the lenses on M, both Jupiters more than good, the Elmar focus ring is very stiff, due to lack of use I expect, seems to be loosening a little but think will need some attention.,

I did contact the seller once it arrived as I wanted to thank him and see if I could find out more.  Seems it had belonged to an elderly relative whose home they were clearing.  He had apparently been an avid motorsports fan spending a lot of time at Brands Hatch and Silverstone with the camera and lenses in the fifties and sixties.  I am going to keep in touch because I hope I can get him to let me have sight of some of his images.  

Anyway, as it all seems to be working ok (ish), I think I will see if I can run a film through it before maybe sending it off for CLA.   Have done the usual thing of testing winding and listening/watching shutter speeds - any tips on things to do before the much dreaded loading of film would be appreciated.  Have watched a few you tube vids on the process.

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[Matlock]

"Anyway, as it all seems to be working ok (ish), I think I will see if I can run a film through it before maybe sending it off for CLA.   Have done the usual thing of testing winding and listening/watching shutter speeds - any tips on things to do before the much dreaded loading of film would be appreciated.  Have watched a few you tube vids on the process".

 

The loading process is a lot easier to do than to read about. Go for it and you may well be delighted with the results, just remember that the Russian lenses do not always work perfectly with Leica cameras (but probably will be acceptable).

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[Boojay]

1 hour ago, Matlock said:

"Anyway, as it all seems to be working ok (ish), I think I will see if I can run a film through it before maybe sending it off for CLA.   Have done the usual thing of testing winding and listening/watching shutter speeds - any tips on things to do before the much dreaded loading of film would be appreciated.  Have watched a few you tube vids on the process".

 

The loading process is a lot easier to do than to read about. Go for it and you may well be delighted with the results, just remember that the Russian lenses do not always work perfectly with Leica cameras (but probably will be acceptable).

Thanks.  I'm on it.  Film loaded, on frame 16 so far seems ok, think I had a stutter at 1/1000 but lower shutter speeds sounding about right.  Sticking with just the Elmar as not sure I would know what to do with that bullet shaped finder.   `Finding the split window focussing interesting - right to frame, left to align, it's very faint image to align, whether that can be improved I've no idea as I'm not sure what you should expect to see through those little windows.  Setting distance scale roughly on the lens - needing to look rather than doing it by feel as focussing ring is certainly not smooth in any way, anyway, having fun which is always the main thing.

 

 

[Ambro51]

Much modified.....UR #9, now working, accepting tessina cassettes, nice finder, Zeiss 3.5 kino Tessar.    LOTS of workbench hours here!

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[Matlock]

Yes Boojay, the rangefinder is a bit of a culture shock after M series Leicas but you can learn to live with it.

Edited September 26, 2019 by Matlock

[Pyrogallol]

5 hours ago, Boojay said:

Thanks.  I'm on it.  Film loaded, on frame 16 so far seems ok, think I had a stutter at 1/1000 but lower shutter speeds sounding about right.  Sticking with just the Elmar as not sure I would know what to do with that bullet shaped finder.   `Finding the split window focussing interesting - right to frame, left to align, it's very faint image to align, whether that can be improved I've no idea as I'm not sure what you should expect to see through those little windows.  Setting distance scale roughly on the lens - needing to look rather than doing it by feel as focussing ring is certainly not smooth in any way, anyway, having fun which is always the main thing.

 

 

Focussing is easy to lubricate on the classic 50mm f3.5 Elmar.

Remove the lens from the camera body then remove the long screw that blocks the focussing from turning past the normal closest focussing point and unscrew the lens from the mount so that you can clean the threads and put a tiny amount of good motor type grease on. When you unscrew the lens from the mount watch where it comes off as has a multi start thread. If you don’t get the start point right first time try again at a different start until you get the infinity marks to coincide, then put the long screw back.

[farnz]

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6 hours ago, Boojay said:

`Finding the split window focussing interesting - right to frame, left to align, it's very faint image to align, whether that can be improved I've no idea as I'm not sure what you should expect to see through those little windows.

Hi Jayne,

The superimposed image can be improved by acquiring and using an OKARO, which is a small disk that pushes onto the viewfinder window on the lens side of the camera and contains a red or orange filter that changes the colour of the superimposed image and makes it stand out a little more from the viewed image.  Please note that the forum thread I've linked to is from 2010 so the links to OKAROs will be redundant unfortunately but Pecole has provided a good picture.

Pete.

[Boojay]

1 hour ago, Pyrogallol said:

Focussing is easy to lubricate on the classic 50mm f3.5 Elmar.

Remove the lens from the camera body then remove the long screw that blocks the focussing from turning past the normal closest focussing point and unscrew the lens from the mount so that you can clean the threads and put a tiny amount of good motor type grease on. When you unscrew the lens from the mount watch where it comes off as has a multi start thread. If you don’t get the start point right first time try again at a different start until you get the infinity marks to coincide, then put the long screw back.

May well give this a try with the help of my other half who is definitely less mechanically challenged😁 and will love to try I'm sure - thank you.

 

4 minutes ago, farnz said:

Hi Jayne,

The superimposed image can be improved by acquiring and using an OKARO, which is a small disk that pushes onto the viewfinder window on the lens side of the camera and contains a red or orange filter that changes the colour of the superimposed image and makes it stand out a little more from the viewed image.  Please note that the forum thread I've linked to is from 2010 so the links to OKAROs will be redundant unfortunately but Pecole has provided a good picture.

Pete.

Definitely going to check that out thank you ... after finishing up the film today,  I'm even more in awe of photographer's of the past, will be hoping I've managed to focus something!

All help and advice appreciated, thanks again.

 

 

[farnz]

Hi Jayne,

By the way, you can roughly check what affect an OKARO would have before parting with your money by holding a small piece of developed film in front of the viewfinder window and the tobacco colour should show you a difference in the superimposed image.

Pete. 

Edited September 26, 2019 by farnz

[pico]

I thought I had a proper OKARO (or like) for my IIIg, but it fit on the wrong (of two) round windows. No worry! It worked regardless. A nifty accessory. No mechanical skill required to install - just push it on.

[Hello]

I have an OKARO I'm selling if you are interested. It's a nice device but I can see the patch fine and don't need it. Hopefully that doesn't change as my eyesight regresses lol.

[Boojay]

2 hours ago, farnz said:

Hi Jayne,

By the way, you can roughly check what affect an OKARO would have before parting with your money by holding a small piece of developed film in front of the viewfinder window and the tobacco colour should show you a difference in the superimposed image.

Pete. 

I decided to have a hunt through various dealers sites and magically an OKARO was listed on Ffordes for £20 (was expecting it to be more), so will see what that does for me - thanks again for the tip.

 

1 hour ago, Hello said:

I have an OKARO I'm selling if you are interested. It's a nice device but I can see the patch fine and don't need it. Hopefully that doesn't change as my eyesight regresses lol.

Shame, I only saw this after ordering one.  Will be in touch if something goes wrong with the order thank you.

 

[frame-it]

12 hours ago, Boojay said:

Think I'm probably about to waste a roll of film but will enjoy the process.  I seem to have become a member of this club thanks to a late night trawl of the famous auction site and pressing the buy it now option on a package.  Very pleasantly surprised (shocked) when package arrived... there was no information on the camera or the lens.  Having checked out seriel numbers seems this is a 111c (1946/7).    Lens is red scale Elmar and I did manage to eventually read the seriel number  which places it from 1953, other two that came with it Jupiter 9 85/2, 11 135/4 - all optics seems good, all with proper caps and filters.  Have tried out all the lenses on M, both Jupiters more than good, the Elmar focus ring is very stiff, due to lack of use I expect, seems to be loosening a little but think will need some attention.,

I did contact the seller once it arrived as I wanted to thank him and see if I could find out more.  Seems it had belonged to an elderly relative whose home they were clearing.  He had apparently been an avid motorsports fan spending a lot of time at Brands Hatch and Silverstone with the camera and lenses in the fifties and sixties.  I am going to keep in touch because I hope I can get him to let me have sight of some of his images.  

Anyway, as it all seems to be working ok (ish), I think I will see if I can run a film through it before maybe sending it off for CLA.   Have done the usual thing of testing winding and listening/watching shutter speeds - any tips on things to do before the much dreaded loading of film would be appreciated.  Have watched a few you tube vids on the process.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

that jupiter 9 85mm is a gorgeous lens

[Matlock]

7 hours ago, Boojay said:

I decided to have a hunt through various dealers sites and magically an OKARO was listed on Ffordes for £20 (was expecting it to be more), so will see what that does for me - thanks again for the tip.

 

Shame, I only saw this after ordering one.  Will be in touch if something goes wrong with the order thank you.

 

You ordered well, a certain online auction site has them for around £98. 🙂 . It just shows that dealing with established stores is often much cheaper. I have dealt with Ffordes for many years, you cant go wrong.

[Boojay]

Thought I'd just report back on that first film after all your help.  Obviously some issues but nothing too major, might even risk another film or two before sending it off for CLA, maybe with some more interesting subjects!

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[willeica]

5 minutes ago, Boojay said:

Thought I'd just report back on that first film after all your help.  Obviously some issues but nothing too major, might even risk another film or two before sending it off for CLA, maybe with some more interesting subjects!

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Some of this looks like capping at faster shutter speeds. Easily fixed by a good CLA person.

William

[Matlock]

Yes it certainly needs a CLA but there is no harm in wasting a couple more films just to get the feel of the camera. I usually keep a couple of out of date films for testing purposes. I did just that the other day with a recently acquired IIIb. My first experience with a Leica was with a IIIb so I got hold of a well worn example just for nostalgia's sake, turned out that, in spite of the scruffy appearance, the camera was not too bad. 

[Boojay]

8 minutes ago, willeica said:

Some of this looks like capping at faster shutter speeds. Easily fixed by a good CLA person.

William

Yes, I could almost hear it happening... but better results than I expected to be honest - thanks!

2 minutes ago, Matlock said:

Yes it certainly needs a CLA but there is no harm in wasting a couple more films just to get the feel of the camera. I usually keep a couple of out of date films for testing purposes. I did just that the other day with a recently acquired IIIb. My first experience with a Leica was with a IIIb so I got hold of a well worn example just for nostalgia's sake, turned out that, in spite of the scruffy appearance, the camera was not too bad. 

This was all a result of a "Well I just have to buy that for that much" moment.  As with a lot of things in my photography cupboard I certainly didn't need it.  But, it's a nice camera to hold and look at so will treat it to a CLA in due course.    

Because I got into photography quite late in life I feel I missed out on all the film stuff and would like to experience a bit of it now... playtime really.

 

 

 

 

[pedaes]

5 minutes ago, Boojay said:

 

Because I got into photography quite late in life I feel I missed out on all the film stuff and would like to experience a bit of it now... playtime really.

 

As many do! Good luck and enjoy!

 

 

 

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[George Furst]

On 5/22/2007 at 3:36 PM, wlaidlaw said:

 

I suspect it is down to the shutter mechanism on the Contax, which is probably 10 times as difficult to repair when it goes wrong as a Leica and is also more fragile, so more likely to go wrong. There are probably still hundreds of people worldwide, who can repair a Leica shutter against I would guess, less than 10 who can repair a Contax one. The other thing is that Contax cameras have this unfortunate habit of getting very lumpy leather and so look tatty in comparison to old Leicas, therefore, are more likely to be junked. I keep hoping to find a nice old Contax sitting in the back of a dusty old junk shop and have looked in many over Europe and Asia but no luck so far.

 

Wilson

That is interesting that you mention the difficulty of fixing the Contax shutter. I often visit Mr Kim in Seoul and see him working on the shutter of the Contax. He showed me the shutter that as you know it goes up and down and is made up of thin strips of metal joined with a thin tape. There are a large number of these in the shutter and it is not easy to fix the shutter for this reason. He does repair the shutter but he spends three of four times the amount of time then to replace the Leica screw mount shutter.

It was interesting to see how this Contax shutter in operation. There are many gears and it is a mechanic’s dream. The Leica shutter is like a two rugs sewed to a couple of ribbons on each. Oh yes there are a few pieces of metal ribbon on the leading edge of the shutter curtain but that is all the metal in this mechanism. These curtain ribbons and curtains are glued to the spindles. This is a very simple solution to a challenging problem. In design one always looks for the simplest solution that works, is easily repairable, is durable, and does not add additional weight to the camera. The Barnack solution is far better than the Contax solution. When some one comes in with a Cantax shutter problem, he always asks how much they are willing to spend. That is the key question because he can repair them but there is a price because the complexity. I always admire the repair work that he does and he is unique as one can sit there as he does the repair. He is listed in the Forum section on repair people and he does a great long lasting job. But every day I worry that he will retire as none of us are getting younger!