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LTM users, its time to stand up and be counted!


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#1001 wlaidlaw

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 16:27

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Here is the test of the Canon 5cm/f1.8 "Hiroshi" lens on my M240. 

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#1002 spydrxx

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 17:05

I like mine, although these days it doesn't get as much use as it did 5-6 years ago. Canon did a very good job in the 1950s with their lenses, which I find as good optically as their Leica counterparts.



#1003 Wayne

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 11:50

Built in 1930s and used, daily, for the last two years.

Attached File  L1030048-2.JPG   68.17KB   5 downloads
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"The beauty of ignorance is that you do not have to consider vagary."

 

Victor Hugo


#1004 Lax Jought

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 12:02

Here is the test of the Canon 5cm/f1.8 "Hiroshi" lens on my M240. 

 

Thanks for posting the photos, it looks like there's some vignetting even for the f/1.8 wide open.  I wasn't expecting this, every review I've read about the f/1.8 hasn't made this a really big point and I was under the assumption that the f/1.8 was a far better performer than the f/1.4.  I haven't really noticed any blue tinging though. 


Edited by Lax Jought, 20 February 2017 - 12:05.

M8.2, M9-P, & M240.


#1005 Lax Jought

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 12:07

Vignetting can be fixed in seconds in Lightroom using the slider at the bottom of Lens Corrections/Manual. If this does not work, the problem may not be vignetting. Can you post a photo of the effect you are getting?

 

William

 

I know that vignetting can be fixed, more or less, in post.  But some vignetting is difficult to fix without leaving some inconsistency in the outermost borders unless you crop it.  I don't have any photos to post unfortunately, I've only just received the lens and have been only experimenting with quick shots before deleting and formatting my SD card.  I'll see about keeping some shots to post when I get a chance to play with the lens next. 


M8.2, M9-P, & M240.


#1006 whirlwindphoto52

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 17:18

Just picked this up at my local used camera store. It's a IIIf red dial from 1955, and came with the Leicavit already mounted. The dealer supplied a regular baseplate along with the camera. The Elmar 5cm/3.5 was obtained last week at the same store. The sn dates it to 1948. Cannot wait to get out and shoot it.

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#1007 pico

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 21:18

whirlwind, my IIIG is just like yours.

 

My Leicavit (SYOOM) was in the box.

The price marked on it is  $24.50!

 

What could we buy for $25 in 1959?


Hell, I am in my own ignore file.

#1008 whirlwindphoto52

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 01:44

whirlwind, my IIIG is just like yours.
 
My Leicavit (SYOOM) was in the box.
The price marked on it is  $24.50!
 
What could we buy for $25 in 1959?


Definitely much more than what $25 will purchase in 2017....:)

#1009 wlaidlaw

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 10:58

Does anyone make a black A36 push on lens hood today? I had thought that Heavystar might but they don't list one on eBay and their online catalogue seems to have vanished. This is to use on the 5cm Anastigmat on my O Series replica. I have a FIKUS and a VALOO but both of these are very tight fits on the Anastigmat and look a bit too large and clumsy as well. In what I suspect is a bit of sloppy dimensioning by Leica, the Anastigmat measures 36.09mm in diameter against a 1931 Nickel Elmar and '32 Chrome Hektor, which both measure 35.98mm. What I would guess that Leica have done, is to machine the front rim to 36mm and then done the knurling afterwards. The FIKUS and VALOO would eventually damage the knurling or at least the finish on it. As I use the FIKUS on my Hektor and VALOO on the Elmar, I don't want to start chopping them about. The paint finish on both of my existing hoods is considerably less than pristine. There is also the FISON but folks seem to ask silly prices for black ones, even if they look VERY used. I would prefer a tubular hood rather than a flared or ventilated one. 

 

Wilson



#1010 willeica

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 11:50

Does anyone make a black A36 push on lens hood today? I had thought that Heavystar might but they don't list one on eBay and their online catalogue seems to have vanished. This is to use on the 5cm Anastigmat on my O Series replica. I have a FIKUS and a VALOO but both of these are very tight fits on the Anastigmat and look a bit too large and clumsy as well. In what I suspect is a bit of sloppy dimensioning by Leica, the Anastigmat measures 36.09mm in diameter against a 1931 Nickel Elmar and '32 Chrome Hektor, which both measure 35.98mm. What I would guess that Leica have done, is to machine the front rim to 36mm and then done the knurling afterwards. The FIKUS and VALOO would eventually damage the knurling or at least the finish on it. As I use the FIKUS on my Hektor and VALOO on the Elmar, I don't want to start chopping them about. The paint finish on both of my existing hoods is considerably less than pristine. There is also the FISON but folks seem to ask silly prices for black ones, even if they look VERY used. I would prefer a tubular hood rather than a flared or ventilated one. 

 

Wilson

 

Not that I am aware. The O series replica is just that and Leica were unlikely to make a hood for a replica from an era when no hoods existed. The first Leica hood was the FISON with the square front opening which is shown on a 1 Model A below. It had to be adjusted using the white line every time that the lens was focused. 

 

Attached File  I Model A and II Model D with filters and FISON Hoods (1 of 1).jpg   67.26KB   4 downloads

 

The FISON on the II Model D on the right is the second version which is just as tight, but at least it does not have to be adjusted after focus. The two later chrome versions of the FISON shown in front have a bit more tolerance as they are tightened after attaching with a little screw. There is a black paint version with a screw (third version of FISON), but it is comparatively rare and expensive.

 

I have the FIKUS and VALOO hoods as well. I mainly use the FIKUS for a 9 cm Elmar. I use the VALOO a lot with 50mm/5cm Elmars as it allows aperture change without removing the hood. If I remember correctly, it does not fit that well on earlier Elmars, but it is pretty good on ones from the mid 1930s onwards. It is, of course, a post-war device, originally intended for use on enlargers.

 

William


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#1011 wlaidlaw

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 12:02

William, 

 

Croydon Photo Centre have a chrome FISON at a very reasonable price, so I am guessing the chrome will be very worn. The simple answer would be to get it and use my air brush to spray it black. I could then use a fine point white paint stick to pick out the engraving in white. I am considering doing the same with the SBOOI I have bought. 

 

Wilson

 

PS After a chat with Reg Roach at CPC, he agreed there was no alternative, so I bought the FISON from him. 


Edited by wlaidlaw, 24 February 2017 - 12:11.


#1012 }{B

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Posted 16 April 2017 - 13:26

Attached File  Leica 111f.jpg   417.75KB   2 downloads

 

With thanks to Ffordes camera shop I've added a 111F red dial with self timer to my Leica brood. They even dug out an original owners manual for it which included a drawing by a previous Leica owner of how to trim the leader.

 

 I'm using a Jupiter 8 50mm at the moment and I've picked up a 50mm Leica viewfinder rather than use my Russian turret finder. The viewfinder is wonderful with the frame lines appearing to float in mid air when I keep both eyes open.

 

I've put one roll of Fomapan200 through it so far and I should get the negs back later this week. I may pick up a Leica 50mm at some stage, it depends on the results I get from the Jupiter. I also have a Leica 35mm finder so a screw mount 35mm lens is also a possibility. Ideally I would want screw lenses with 39mm filter threads to take my the existing filters and for a 35mm lens I'd like to find a suitable lens hood at a reasonable price.

 

For now I'm happy enough with the current set up and the 111F will be off to Scotland with me in a few weeks along with my new M10. I wonder which will get used the most?


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#1013 wlaidlaw

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Posted 16 April 2017 - 14:49

I gave up some years ago trying to get consistent results from Russian/Ukrainian lenses on Leica LTM bodies. There is a good (if long) article here by Dante Stella, which explains why this incompatibility exists: http://www.dantestel...cal/compat.html .  I spoke at some length to the very helpful folk at Lomography in London, when I was thinking of getting one of their new Jupiter 3 lenses. They assured me that the helicoid and RF cam have now been optimised for Leica cameras, so oddly, the new ones will now not work properly on the cameras they were originally designed to fit, the FED's and the Zorkis.

 

In the end I found a Series 5 LTM Summicron, the 1999 special edition, for sale at an auction in Japan. I got a Japanese friend to bid for me and got it at a very reasonable price of just over £1000, considering it is indistinguishable from new. 

 

Wilson


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#1014 }{B

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Posted 16 April 2017 - 17:17

Thanks for the comments. I've used this Jupiter8 for some years on my Leica M bodies and got acceptable results using black and white film. I'm hoping for the same with the 111f.

 

As for the Lomography Jupiter3+ I've never been happy with the lens since I bought it. On digital it never seems to focus correctly or at least where I wanted it to and it's not much better with film. When I tried it on the 111f I found to my surprise that when screwed fully home the red index mark was not upright at twelve o'clock but canted at about the eleven o'clock position. Strangely when using it on an M camera with a Leica adapter the index mark is straight up as it should be.

 

I've just noticed that the slow speed dial on the 111f was not set at the red 25 mark but on 15 when I last used it. I shot mainly at 1/500 and the roll won't be back for some days yet. Is this likely to have effected the exposures? I have only just seen in the manual that it is important to ensure that this dial is set correctly before using the higher shutter speeds


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#1015 wlaidlaw

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Posted 16 April 2017 - 18:23

I found your comments on the New Jupiter 3 interesting. I also received mediocre reports from others, which is one reason I did not buy one. The Special Edition LTM Summicron 50/2 Series 5 is by far the best of the four Series 5 Summicrons (the other three M bayonet ones) I have owned at various times. It is almost as good now as my Zeiss 50/2 ZM Planar  :P

 

You will be fine with the slow speed dial. It only comes into play when you have the main shutter speed dial at 1-20. I often find my Leica LTM's have the dial shifted a bit unintentionally, particularly on my Model III, where very little force, like a small bump of a finger tip, will rotate the dial. Interestingly, this was one of a number small improvements Reid and Sigrist made on the LTM design, where there is a spring loaded detent on the slow speed dial, so it never shifts unless you want it to and goes click click between each slow speed. See photo below. 

 

Wilson

 

 

 

 

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#1016 Dr. No

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Posted 18 April 2017 - 21:11

just arrived - easteregg ;) :)

 

34080482656_b67556fe10_b.jpgDSC02004_b by nattens, auf Flickr


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#1017 Dr. No

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Posted 18 April 2017 - 21:12

Leica IIIc

 

33736107180_3d5fb4bcf6_b.jpgDSC02002_b by nattens, auf Flickr


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#1018 wlaidlaw

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Posted 18 April 2017 - 21:33

So what lens are you going to buy it for a whitsun day present. Push the boat out and get it a Summarit? .......or go modern and get one of the 1999 Special Edition LTM 50 or 35 Summicrons or for very deep pockets the series IV LTM Summilux?  :)  :)



#1019 Dr. No

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Posted 18 April 2017 - 21:36

Summarit sounds good, but  I'll take the one from the other camera - the Summitar ;)

 

4028869847_2fd9952e95_o.jpgLeica IIIc by nattens, auf Flickr


Edited by Dr. No, 18 April 2017 - 21:37.

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#1020 Dr. No

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Posted 01 May 2017 - 16:34

Sumicron 5 cm LTM and M:

 

34250839601_a6e0bda72d_o.jpgbrother & sister by nattens, auf Flickr


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