expose for shadows, scan for ??

[sjefjans]

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I'm using fomapan 100 with diafine. I exposed the film for iso 200 up till now, but I guess it's better to overexpose , so I will try iso 100.

I am then scanning the film with a Nikon Coolscan 5000 ED. I scan to nef raw files. I noticed that one can set a lot of things with the Nikon Scan software.

Now, what is your experience in this: should I scan for a flat contrast, with lot's of detail (and use photoshop to create the look I want) , or would it be better to scan immediately for the desired effect? Probably I am trying to find a setting that will do justice to most of the negatives, so I can batch scan the films.

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[Xmas]

Well with the semi spot of the MP I'd recommend reading about the zone system, e.g. google 'Weston + zone' or borrow some of Ansell Adams books.

 

If you have a negative that is to dense for the scanner you will lose details in the high lights...

 

If you don't have detail in the shadows you may get speckle, but a clone tool is easy...

 

I prefer to use an incident meter, even when I put a battery in the M6, the trun left or right LED distracts me.

 

Noel

P.S. I know this does not answer your question... sorry

[andybarton]

When shooting black and white film for scanning, I always overexpose (i.e. Tri-X rated at 320, not 400, or Pan-F+ at 32, not 50) and under-develop (roughly 10-15% shorter development time)

 

This opens up the shadows and retains the highlights. For scanning, you need a flat negative, so that you can work on it in PS.

 

Use the scanning software to get the scan into your computer, and the editing software to work on the image.

[stunsworth]

When scanning I always aim for a flat negative that I'll adjust later in Photoshop.

 

I use Vuescan with a Nikon Coolscan V, and typically set the black and white points to .5%. On a typical negative this gives a bell shaped histogram with no real clipping at either extreme of the spectrum.

 

I also scan b&w as 16 bit b&w Tiffs.

[sjefjans]

Would there be a difference between 8 bit and 16 bit? Would it give more grey tones?

[stunsworth]

16 bit does give you more grey tones - and means that you avoid the posterisation that you sometimes see when adjusting 8 bit images.

[sjefjans]

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So, should I play with the gamma setting in the levels & curves part of the software? That should bring the contrast down, wouldn't it?

[pico]

So, should I play with the gamma setting in the levels & curves part of the software? That should bring the contrast down, wouldn't it?

 

It could. To get the best information about curves, visit the Curvemeister. He's a good chap.

 

Until then, display curves to get an idea of what you have. Check the histogram. Then try Image - Adjustments - Shadow/Highlight. It is a quick way to manipulate range. Try it then look at the curves and histogram. It is rather informative..

[tobey bilek]

Repeat what Andybarton said.

 

I will add some film scan better than others even if they are developed to all print on #2 paper. Tri X is particularly good. I am using TMax & 400 now.

 

Since you need to hold down contrast, diafine is probably not a good developer. I would suggest D23 or D76.

 

You will be happy at 1/2 rated speed for lots of shadow detail and then cut development 20% from whatever was correct for rated speed.