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Stealth3kpl

V700, Vuescan Colour Management

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Kodak Portra 160NC

I've been through all the kodak and Fuji colour neg profiles for best colour.

I've tried locking film base colour (pic 1), and a straight scan (pic 2) but I can't get the letter box the colour of the Pro scan.

I haven't altered the contrast so you can see what I'm getting after white bal (initially in vuescan, and then again in lightroom 3 to see if there was any improvement).

I'm banging my head against the wall. Good whites and greens give me magenta instead of red. Vuescan output DNG is the same colour convention as LR3. I don't know where to find the colour output of the scanner if indeed I need to. What am I missing?

Pete

Edited by Stealth3kpl

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You wll need to colour correct etc in Photoshop. The film profiles are the weakest link immune program, in my experience. They are all terrible.

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Is this a black magic art or can anyone do it? Could you demonstrate with one of the posted images of mine? (Preferably with screen shots!)

I thought that once I profiled the negative the presets wouldn't be required.

Pete

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Yes Pete, I too endorse CP - start with NO colour balance in Vuescan, and save as a raw tiff NEGATIVE not positve (I think you're doing this already if you're using colorneg?) Use your output colour space as ProPhoto in Vuescan,

 

Then, come into colorperfect negative and convert in gamma mode, setting 1.5 approx for colour negative film. Watch the highlights if you go 1.8 or 2.0 etc..

 

The only thing is that in elements you won't be able to output as Prophoto - you'll need to swap to Adobe RGB which actually tends to intensify and darken the colours anyway - I like the effect.

 

Save the negatives as separate files and then if you even upgrade to CS5 you can re-do them and come in as ProPhoto directly without re-scanning.

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Thanks Julian. I'll have another go tomorrow. I've been at it all night now and I've started to wish I'd taken up sword swallowing.

I was getting some success with negative tiffs but was blowing highlights. I've tried negative DNG files but really don't know where I am with them before taking them into photoshop.

 

When you say "raw tiff NEGATIVE" is that "TIFF DNG" or "RAW"?

 

I've just had a go with colorperfect adjusting black then white then gamma and bringing into photoshop when it still looked a little dark. The result is pretty good but it seems to dull on coversion for the web so I won't post.

 

Pete

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Here's a quick and dirty in Photoshop.

 

Without access to the original DNG file from Vuescan or at least a tiff file, it's hard to make much of an impact on the first images shared above. There's probably too much blue in this one, as the pillar box isn't pillar box red. I will need to spend more time on it to get the red right.

 

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Are you using a colour managed browser, such as Safari? If not, you need to...

 

In order for those people still using Internet Explorer, or Firefox without the colour management set-up, to see your photos anthing close to what you are seeing, you need to save your images with a colour space of sRGB.

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Your post two above this one has some sort of sqiggly grid overlaid. Presumably, you ate using a trial version of some software in this?

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Your post two above this one has some sort of sqiggly grid overlaid. Presumably, you ate using a trial version of some software in this?

Colourperfect trial version.

Pete

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Played with contrast. Still doesn't look right. I suspect I might have to go back to scanning but I'll play with colorperfect again this evening. Colours aren't very subtle as they are in the pro scan above.

Pete

Edited by Stealth3kpl

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Driven mad by letter box colours, the wife and I took a drive out to see it again and actually it doesn't look like the ProLab's colour at all but more closely resembles the colour in this post.

 

Julian, I've been opening a NEGATIVE DNG in Capture Raw of Photoshop and taking it straight into Photoshop without any adjustment. This means nothing is clipped - all the info is there. On this particular conversion I opened in ColorPerfect and, with Gamma C set to 1.5 took it straight back into photoshop (ie I haven't done any other adjustments in ColorPerfect). Are there any prudent adjustments to make in ColorPerfect? I have tried various adjustments of Black (exposure) White (fogginess) and then Gamma, but with no obvious improvement over doing nothing at all.

Is there a typical ColorPerfect work flow for colour negatives?

 

Pete

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I'm trying some other files. It would be good to get a sure fire routine on the net for others wishing to take advantage of the wide exposure latitude of film. The sky in this pic is nice with none of the blownout digital highlights that get my goat when I'm taking pics.

The postbox and this pic are test pics on the first film through my MP.

Pete

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