andrew748 Posted July 28, 2010 Share #1 Posted July 28, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) .....your most useful tips for a total film newb pretty please with a cherry on top;) My Canon is ill and has been packed of to the photographic equivalent of The Priory. so that made me dig out Gramp's SL's for a play. My main problem with these cameras is their dire need for a CLA but after looking them over again, it turns out that one of them has an intact battery terminal. So i popped in a battery and nothing. pressed the battery test button and the needle moves YAY! but then it went and hid again *grrr*. no amount of knob turning and flange fettling would make the pesky needle reappear. So i googled the instructions and it turns out that i'm a doofus, the meter has an inbuilt switch that is off when the film advance lever is flush with the body. Anyway. i'm assuming that the legendary Leica build will join in with beginners luck and i'll have reasonably accurate metering (fingers crossed). Sooooooo Ladies and Gentlemen, I would be extremely grateful if you would consider sharing your best Do's and Don'ts for film. cheers Happy Andy the photography fool Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 28, 2010 Posted July 28, 2010 Hi andrew748, Take a look here quake with fear tiny mortals..............AKA. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
andybarton Posted July 28, 2010 Share #2 Posted July 28, 2010 Nice one What film are you planning on starting with? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew748 Posted July 28, 2010 Author Share #3 Posted July 28, 2010 Nice one What film are you planning on starting with? Hi Andy er.... film? i'm guessing that asa is iso, so because i rarely shoot digital over 200 iso.... probably a bumper pack of whatever bargains in the fuji 200 range ebay or my local supermarket has to offer. Once i've confirmed that the light meter is working, i'll get a bit more serious about proper film. a quick look at ebay for film has confused my tiny brain, there are hundreds of different types and most seem to be process paid, does this mean as i think that the processing of the film is prepaid? what are the benefits/disadvantages of this? is it cheaper and idiot proof to develop your own? how dark does a dark room need to be? will my dining room suffice? why is there such a variation in film? will an SL fire a canon580exii? i have cables but i don't want to wreck either product. so much to consider before i even go and click:o Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted July 28, 2010 Share #4 Posted July 28, 2010 Woah! Easy tiger! One step at a time There are so many films because it's good to have choice. Imagine what life was like when there was twice as many films around. It's what makes using film so interesting. With all the different developers, b&w film gives almost infinite variety. Prepaid film is usually slide film, which is more challenging than negative film. You really have to get the exposure right with slides, whereas negatives are more forgiving. If you have access to a half decent lab, in the high street or a supermarket, buy some Kodak or Fuji colour negative film. Portra would be a good choice. Use the "Sunny 16" rule to expose the film if the meter is suspect. Get the film processed with a CD of scans. Marvel at what you have done Forget the flash and darkroom and all that stuff go for instant gratification. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew748 Posted July 28, 2010 Author Share #5 Posted July 28, 2010 I have a snappy snaps, jessops and boots in town. I like the staff at jessops so i will probably use them. Thanks for the sunny16 tip great reading. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted July 28, 2010 Share #6 Posted July 28, 2010 PLEASE DON'T DON'T DON'T USE JESSOPS or BOOTS!!!!!!! They have ruined and lost films of mine and I wouldn't trust them again. Snappy Snaps on the other hand are excellent so far. They seem to employ interested and dedicated staff, the person doing your film at Boots will probably also be stocking the sandwiches and taking prescription orders.... Your SL's meter may not be compatible with the battery that you have used - almost certainly it will need recalibration. If you use C41 colour or B&W film the 'Sunny 16' method should work fine, although in all but the brightest of summer days on the coast in the UK I find it really equates to 'Sunny 11', that is f11 is the smallest aperture on a bright/sunny day with a shutter speed roughly equivalent to the ISO of the film you're using, so 250th with ISO200. The film will have plenty of latitude to make up for the 'approximation'. Good luck, you'll probably stay with film now........... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew748 Posted July 28, 2010 Author Share #7 Posted July 28, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) PLEASE DON'T DON'T DON'T USE JESSOPS or BOOTS!!!!!!! They have ruined and lost films of mine and I wouldn't trust them again. Snappy Snaps on the other hand are excellent so far. They seem to employ interested and dedicated staff, the person doing your film at Boots will probably also be stocking the sandwiches and taking prescription orders.... Your SL's meter may not be compatible with the battery that you have used - almost certainly it will need recalibration. If you use C41 colour or B&W film the 'Sunny 16' method should work fine, although in all but the brightest of summer days on the coast in the UK I find it really equates to 'Sunny 11', that is f11 is the smallest aperture on a bright/sunny day with a shutter speed roughly equivalent to the ISO of the film you're using, so 250th with ISO200. The film will have plenty of latitude to make up for the 'approximation'. Good luck, you'll probably stay with film now........... if i survive the brain melting initiation lux, lumens, footcandles, the sunny 16 is actually 15 on the ev chart 88 for iso 200 gimmie a freaking break! did the CIA devise this code after self testing LSD?? I might actually have to get a calculator out I never shoot at f16! but thanks all the same James er....is this a good time to mention that i never really understood stops is a stop the mathematical doubling up or down or the actual click of the f or shutter speed? I think this will help Ultimate Exposure Computer and you lot think film is fun edit using that UEC link it looks like the in camera light meter is pretty near the mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted July 28, 2010 Share #8 Posted July 28, 2010 Andy, It's really very simple, honest guv! A stop is indeed a doubling or halving, i.e. f2, f2.8, f4, f5.6 etc etc, although you can do half stops (and some lenses have third stops in between 'main' apertures). Likewise the shutter speeds on your SL. So, if you measure an exposure using Sunny 11 (copyright J Earley) at say 250th f11, you could instead use 1000th at f5.6 for the same exposure - two clicks up on the shutter speed and two (main) clicks down on the aperture. Don't worry too much about the technicalities, load a film and get stuck into it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew748 Posted July 28, 2010 Author Share #9 Posted July 28, 2010 Andy, It's really very simple, honest guv! A stop is indeed a doubling or halving, i.e. f2, f2.8, f4, f5.6 etc etc, although you can do half stops (and some lenses have third stops in between 'main' apertures). Likewise the shutter speeds on your SL. So, if you measure an exposure using Sunny 11 (copyright J Earley) at say 250th f11, you could instead use 1000th at f5.6 for the same exposure - two clicks up on the shutter speed and two (main) clicks down on the aperture. Don't worry too much about the technicalities, load a film and get stuck into it! I'm clicking away as we type, all total dross but it will give me an idea. my main concern now is that any images i make using your copyrighted sunny 11 formula may incur a need to part with hard earned in the form of royalties :p hopefully being in Epsom you'll settle for royalties in the form of beer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted July 28, 2010 Share #10 Posted July 28, 2010 See you in the Derby Arms Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew748 Posted July 28, 2010 Author Share #11 Posted July 28, 2010 See you in the Derby Arms tomorrow night for the Madness gig? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted July 28, 2010 Share #12 Posted July 28, 2010 Madness playing at Epsom? I'm in Devon tomorrow for a meeting so home late, only to have to drive back down to Dorset early the next morning for Camp Bestival, where Madness are playing! Can't wait! Hopefully the rehearsals go well Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew748 Posted July 29, 2010 Author Share #13 Posted July 29, 2010 Madness playing at Epsom? I'm in Devon tomorrow for a meeting so home late, only to have to drive back down to Dorset early the next morning for Camp Bestival, where Madness are playing! Can't wait! Hopefully the rehearsals go well have a safe journey btw the maths was killing me, yes it's simple -ish, but the thought of shooting at f16 was depressing me. this is simpler (I can hear you tutting at the back) Essence Computing Ltd - Exposure Calculator iphone to the rescue i wonder if it actually works, if it does it will soon become second nature to guesstimate the values required. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpattison Posted July 29, 2010 Share #14 Posted July 29, 2010 If, as you say, the SL's meter is pretty close , Id just rely on that for your first roll. Check the results and go from there. Don't make life complicated! Enjoy shooting film with a great manual camera. Cheers, John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StS Posted July 29, 2010 Share #15 Posted July 29, 2010 Since you already mentioned a dark room - I guess, if I started film now, this would be step 3 or 4 on my list. It depends, how much one wants to do oneself. One can give everything to a lab, in the beginning, this might be a good entry into film. Developing Black and White film is no black art and can be done with moderate investment (say 100$/€, could be 150, less in Pounds). All you need is a bathroom and some temperature control. Just ask, if you need more details, this forum can tell you everything. Colour film will need better temperature control and more expensive equipment, I would guess one would like to have a small, permanent area to store the processor then. However, this can be done at home as well. The next step would be to get the developed negative exposed or printed on paper. The more contemporary approach is to scan (or have the images scanned), the classic approach is an enlarger. A scanner does not require much space, an enlarger will need a (dedicted) darkroom, ideally separating "wet" and "dry" area. Some people enlarge in their bathroom, but then one still needs the space to store the equipment. The hassle of getting it out every time will probably reduce the frequency it will be used. Add on top the discussions with family members about the blocked bathroom. But then, this is probably step 3 or 4 on the voyage... Stefan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew748 Posted July 31, 2010 Author Share #16 Posted July 31, 2010 ok well the film's back and i'm reasonably happy with the results for my first attempt with film. so to recap this is the un- CLA'd SL2's light meter. I bought some boots iso 200 cheapy film. and these are the results: your thought are most welcome the next roll of film is using sunny 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
antistatic Posted August 1, 2010 Share #17 Posted August 1, 2010 Nothing wrong with the exposure and I like No. 3 a lot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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