tjv Posted January 2, 2007 Share #1 Posted January 2, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) This is perhaps an elementary question, something that I just touched upon in a post in another thread. I can't test anything to do with this at the moment either as my camera is back in Germany. Anyway, I'm used to working with M6 and M7 bodies loaded with E6 film. Generally speaking, my exposures are usually spot on using the internal light metre of the camera. I noticed when I was photographing with the M8 that in certain situations , exposing using the same methods as I was with film, I was getting what I would think was 2 stops underexposure. I was taking into account the fact that the M8's metre is reportedly more heavily centre weighted and more horizontally orientated. For this reason I found the AUTO exp on the M8 totally unusable, even if using an exposure lock. My method is generally to expose for the midtones, sometimes taking readings off the back of my hand to get the skin tones correct (and exposure locking if I'm able,) depending on the situation and desired effect. This brings me back to the question I just asked Khun_k (sorry if I've got the spelling wrong here!) in another thread. How do people expose their digital images? Books like "Real World Camera Raw" etc talk of most of the info being in the highlights of a Raw, which is the opposite of how the eye sees and how film captures. I'd like to know how to effectively emulate the tonal range and colour response of slide, namely Fuji Astia. Thanks, Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 2, 2007 Posted January 2, 2007 Hi tjv, Take a look here M8: using internal exp metre. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
johnkuo Posted January 2, 2007 Share #2 Posted January 2, 2007 Having used the M8 for 3 days, I think it works just fine. It tends to avoid blowing out highlights because with digital such overexposure means complete loss of detail. I use it the same way I use my M7/MP, point at midtones and lock the exposure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4season Posted January 2, 2007 Share #3 Posted January 2, 2007 When you discover how much dynamic range a raw file can accomodate, you will never want to go back to shooting slides again! In general, keep your eyes on the important highlights and don't clip them; let the darker regions fall where they will, because you can work on those in post-processing. The M8 can display histograms with a clipping indicator: Get to know these, and don't sweat it if your photos seem kind of dark as you view them on the LCD. I don't know about "most info being contained in the highlights": Not if said highlights are clipped! Clipping implies an irretrievable loss of info. I have my M8 set to underexpose by 1/3 stop, and this seems to work pretty well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eoin Posted January 2, 2007 Share #4 Posted January 2, 2007 I to am finding the M8's metering pattern has forced me to change my metering method. I'm not saying any thing is wrong with the M8 just the pattern of sensitivity is different to other cameras I have used in the past. Also not cliping the highlights is important, there seems to be more recoverable shadow detail than with previous digital cameras I have used. Different camera = different shooting style. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjv Posted January 2, 2007 Author Share #5 Posted January 2, 2007 Yes, I agree that it's more a matter of getting used to the metering pattern rather than it being off. I'll have to wait until getting the camera back before I can practice some more. Thanks guys, Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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