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What to buy M6 or M7?


bussta

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So how quick is it to change the exposure on the M6 by looking through the viewfinder guide?

 

The M7 in Auto obviously removes the need for manually setting shutter speed, so has that speed advantage in terms of getting the correct exposure - what I think I am trying to get at or ask is as i'm not 100% fluid with the system as many people here, so how quick is it in practice to change for the correct exposure while looking in the viewfinder? the auto of the M7 would reduce the need to do that as it's determined by the aperture you select right? would I potentially be missing shots because I am trying to turn the shutter speed dial so the diodes match up then trying to focus?

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So how quick is it to change the exposure on the M6 by looking through the viewfinder guide?

 

The M7 in Auto obviously removes the need for manually setting shutter speed, so has that speed advantage in terms of getting the correct exposure - what I think I am trying to get at or ask is as i'm not 100% fluid with the system as many people here, so how quick is it in practice to change for the correct exposure while looking in the viewfinder? the auto of the M7 would reduce the need to do that as it's determined by the aperture you select right? would I potentially be missing shots because I am trying to turn the shutter speed dial so the diodes match up then trying to focus?

 

With either camera, you are just learning the M system and still must focus manually and compose. With the M7 you also must learn where to correctly meter and then hold that reading while partially depressing the shutter. I doubt that for a long time the speed of usage of AE on the M7 will be a lot of help to you. Personally I would purchase the best example of either that you can find and afford and be done with it. If you have not previously used the M system or rangefinder, you have some learning to do.

As I said previously, if you purchase an nice M6, you have more money to purchase a top lens like the 35mm Lux or Chron Asph rather than some cheaper piece of glass and in the final analysis, its really the lens that is most important.-Dick

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Guest dk_samurai
...what I think I am trying to get at or ask is as i'm not 100% fluid with the system as many people here, so how quick is it in practice to change for the correct exposure while looking in the viewfinder? the auto of the M7 would reduce the need to do that as it's determined by the aperture you select right? would I potentially be missing shots because I am trying to turn the shutter speed dial so the diodes match up then trying to focus?

 

Keep in mind that the M7 (together with its AE feature) is relatively new in the M camera lineup. The M camera system dates back to 1954, so most of the forum users here started up with cameras without AE, and learned to take good photographs without it. They managed without AE to start with, and so will you - don't sweat it.

 

I agree with others here: If you have to get a Leica M, start with a used M6 and get some good glass to go with it. In a year or two, you will then know if you could do better with AE. Then you can sell your M6 for the same price you bought it for (granted it's not beat up by then).

 

/David

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Use an incident light meter, quicker than an M6 or M7. The benefit with the M7's electronic shutter is that in AE it is stepless, i.e. the speed will vary anywhere between the minimum and maximum speeds, rather that the usual and standard steps of the mechanical shutter.

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Use an incident light meter, quicker than an M6 or M7. The benefit with the M7's electronic shutter is that in AE it is stepless, i.e. the speed will vary anywhere between the minimum and maximum speeds, rather that the usual and standard steps of the mechanical shutter.

 

How is an incident light meter quicker than an internal meter on a M6 or (especially) M7? surely even with a M6 if you are looking thru the camera you turn the dials while looking at the metering arrows, whereas with a handheld you have to hold the meter, put away/drop the meter, then enter the readings. I can only see how that will be slower than doing it all directly with the camera.

 

Another issues is that for an incident meter to be effective you have to have it (meaning yourself) in an area of light that is useful for metering. Very often that is impossible. While useful at times, incident metering is IMHO nowhere near as useful on average as reflected readings.

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  • 5 months later...

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How is an incident light meter quicker than an internal meter on a M6 or (especially) M7? surely even with a M6 if you are looking thru the camera you turn the dials while looking at the metering arrows, whereas with a handheld you have to hold the meter, put away/drop the meter, then enter the readings. I can only see how that will be slower than doing it all directly with the camera.

 

Another issues is that for an incident meter to be effective you have to have it (meaning yourself) in an area of light that is useful for metering. Very often that is impossible. While useful at times, incident metering is IMHO nowhere near as useful on average as reflected readings.

 

I don't know how it's faster, however about the incident meter and useful metering...the sun is well...very far away. As long as your in the same light as your subject, (even if it's many feet away,) you can use the meter where ever your standing. If your subject is in the shade, chances are, you are in the shade also. Just meter the light falling on the meter (that's in the same type of light.)

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A incident meter will often give you a much more accurate meter reading than a reflective meter.

 

That said, if you know how and when to compensate, the M7 is one of the best auto meters available. Just don't rely on any reflective meter in contrasty or challenging conditions.

 

If you want an automatic exposure film M, you only have one choice.

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I'd hesitate to get an M6 classic (or MP or any older M body) if you are planning on getting an M9 or 9.2 somewhere down the road. The shutter speed dial goes the other direction. M6TTL and M7 have the same bigger opposite direction shutter speed dials as do the M8 and M9.

 

If (when) I go down the M9 road (I've whined about poor high ISO performance in the past, but what I'm really holding out for is black and silver chrome options... ), I will probably be forced into an M7 purchase as well. :) I'm easily confused and would prefer to keep the controls as similar as possible.

 

I now shoot with older M bodies, but, just my opinion, the M7 has the nicest sounding shutter of any camera I've ever handled.

 

Jay

my 100th post!

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I'd hesitate to get an M6 classic (or MP or any older M body) if you are planning on getting an M9 or 9.2 somewhere down the road. The shutter speed dial goes the other direction. M6TTL and M7 have the same bigger opposite direction shutter speed dials as do the M8 and M9.

 

If (when) I go down the M9 road (I've whined about poor high ISO performance in the past, but what I'm really holding out for is black and silver chrome options... ), I will probably be forced into an M7 purchase as well. :) I'm easily confused and would prefer to keep the controls as similar as possible.

 

I now shoot with older M bodies, but, just my opinion, the M7 has the nicest sounding shutter of any camera I've ever handled.

 

Jay

my 100th post!

 

I thought that the M6 had a quieter shutter?

 

Maybe the M7 is a touch louder, but sounds nicer?

 

 

I have a R9 and the shutter speed dial seems normal to me. Are you saying the M7's shutter speed dial is the opposite of what I'm used to?

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So how quick is it to change the exposure on the M6 by looking through the viewfinder guide?

... would I potentially be missing shots because I am trying to turn the shutter speed dial so the diodes match up then trying to focus?

 

Hi

Two problems

i) exp

With a meter display in the viewfinder you have a compelling distraction. As alluded to it is a semi spot reflective reading, which you will have to think about in some circumstances anyway.

If you are doing scenic shots e.g. for the variation in a cloud formation you should be okish...

If you are trying to catch some one stroking their face tusk tusk tusk, you will miss a big %.

ii) focus

HCB is reputed to have prefocused at 12 foot, I'm not so good I use 7 foot, how optimistic are you?

Try Ilford XP2 several problems dissappear, it is not that difficult to home process either.

 

Noel

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  • 10 years later...

I completely agree with Bill on the shutter sound.

M6 is louder than M7, M4 and M2

But M6 feels 'better in the hand' than the M7 in my opinion.Just something that's difficult to explain with logic.

The stepless shutter of the M7 is surely a technical improvement but honestly film has so much latitude I don't think it has any real value in practical terms.

I own both and its the M6 that gets far more use.

In regards to metering I normally set the exposure I think is right and use the LED in the viewfinder just for confirmation.

I think you need to handle both cameras and let your emotion decide.

Both will keep your film flat.

 

best

andy

 

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Since this revived thread is a decade old, and the original poster bought an M9-P in 2008, I suspect our advice may be superfluous!:

Anyone making this decision in 2021 would have to balance the M7's aperture priority mode with the ability of the M6 to function without a battery, and the probability that the M6 will be repairable for longer.

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