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Link - Collection for CornerFix Profiles


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CornerFix is really helpfull to correct M9 DNGs; using the included CV12 files was really convincing.

 

Did anyone find a collection with different profiles for the M9 (my trials doing it by myself have been less than outstanding, i am lazy too...) ? I was also less than successfull finding profiles in this forum (only ZM 2,8/35)

 

I am looking especially for for profiles for the M9, Zeiss ZM 4/18 and the Leica 2,8/28 ASPH...

 

:Axel

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I am in a similar position- I have to make a profile for the CV 15mm M mount lens..... so far all my efforts have proved terrible. I have to correct some images over the next month- and I am at a loss to get cornerfix to work for me. Every attempt I have made so far has made the image a complete mess. Am I correct to assume I need to make a profile for each aperture I have used? This may prove hard as I cannot remember exactly for every shot I need to clean up. Is there any online resource for how to properly use cornerfix- and how to create a good profile? I am having difficulty finding a suitably large evenly lit white wall to point my 15mm at. Forgive my ignorance and lasiness if you can...

 

On another note I am amazed how sharp some of the images coming out of the CV15 are... it is one sharp lens.

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I am in a similar position- I have to make a profile for the CV 15mm M mount lens..... so far all my efforts have proved terrible. I have to correct some images over the next month- and I am at a loss to get cornerfix to work for me. Every attempt I have made so far has made the image a complete mess. Am I correct to assume I need to make a profile for each aperture I have used? This may prove hard as I cannot remember exactly for every shot I need to clean up. Is there any online resource for how to properly use cornerfix- and how to create a good profile? I am having difficulty finding a suitably large evenly lit white wall to point my 15mm at. Forgive my ignorance and lasiness if you can...

 

On another note I am amazed how sharp some of the images coming out of the CV15 are... it is one sharp lens.

 

Generally only one profile for all apertures will work ok. Usually something like f/8.

 

As regards the terrible results, you'll have to give us more specific information on what's going wrong.

 

Sandy

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Sandy,

CornerFix is THE program, Leica should have delivered with its remarkable M8.2 and M9s (in firmware or as postprocessor)... It should be part of Camera Raw 6, once again Adobe is NOT delivering as expected.

 

My donation is garantied, when I have acceptable profiles for M9 and Zeiss ZM 4/18 and Leica 2,8/28 ASPH (1,4/35 ASPH NEW, when available this summer/fall???)

 

There seem to be two kind of users:

 

  1. strieving for maximum performance and doing it individually for one camera/lens combination (each lens, especially the less expensive ones, is a little bit different): 100 % effort for 100% quality.
  2. the lazy one like me: 20% effort, 85% quality, looking for already available profiles... When i switched from my Nikon F2/F3 HP combo to F5, i trashed my last greycard. Nor do I have a sufficient white or grey space to establish the reference shot, maybe other users have the same challenges

Just a proposal: why not establish a profile-collection in this forum or on your chromasoft-blog ? Imo "the lazy users", more shooting, less profilimng, post-processing, would significantly profit ...

 

And many thanx again for this helpful software ...

 

Axel

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I've seen the terrific results possible with Cornerfix Sandy, but nearly lost the will to live trying to understand what to do and which buttons to press and which not to press. It reminds me of Vuescan software, everything including the kitchen sink is right there, in your face, to many figures, parameters, options. Any chance of a 'Lite' version with just two buttons 'In' and 'Out', please? ;-)

 

Steve

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Just a proposal: why not establish a profile-collection in this forum or on your chromasoft-blog ? Imo "the lazy users", more shooting, less profilimng, post-processing, would significantly profit ...

 

Two reasons why I haven't done that:

 

1. There is quite a bit of variation from lens to lens and camera to camera, so profiles aren't that interchangeable

 

2. Keeping CornerFix up to date already takes up enough of my time :)

 

Sandy

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I've seen the terrific results possible with Cornerfix Sandy, but nearly lost the will to live trying to understand what to do and which buttons to press and which not to press. It reminds me of Vuescan software, everything including the kitchen sink is right there, in your face, to many figures, parameters, options. Any chance of a 'Lite' version with just two buttons 'In' and 'Out', please? ;-)

 

Steve

 

Steve,

 

The way CornerFix is configured, the "lite" version is effectively just using CornerFix without changing any of the preferences. So 95% of the time, just starting CornerFix, loading a reference image and hitting the "Create Profile" menu command should get you an entirely workable profile, and just loading that profile should get you 100% correction of whatever image you want corrected.

 

You should only have to change preferences if you're using a very old version of Capture One, or your reference image is marginal. But if your reference image is marginal, I'd think about creating a new one...

 

Sandy

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Hey, you all:, one huge problem is I, & others, don't even know what is meant here by "creating a profile". What profile? Give some concrete examples. Even such a technically knowledgeable photographer as Steve Huff has informed me that, after having downloaded Cornerfix, he studied it for about 20 minutes without arriving at a workable conclusion about what to do with it.

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Hey, you all:, one huge problem is I, & others, don't even know what is meant here by "creating a profile". What profile? Give some concrete examples. Even such a technically knowledgeable photographer as Steve Huff has informed me that, after having downloaded Cornerfix, he studied it for about 20 minutes without arriving at a workable conclusion about what to do with it.

 

There's a quick start guide in PDF form included in the file you downloaded. It gives step by step instructions on what you need to do. I'd recommend reading that rather than trying to guess how to use the software.

 

However, to answer your question, the process of correcting an image is as follows:

 

1. Shoot a reference image - of a grey card, white wall, acetate sheet or whatever.

 

2. Use CornerFix to generate a profile from the reference image - the profile is a description of the vignetting characteristics of the lens and camera combination

 

3. Once you have a profile, you can then correct images by loading the image and the profile into CornerFix, and saving the corrected file(s). Or by using CornerFix's batch mode.

 

Sandy

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Alnitak, what do you that the magenta corners are "all but gone" when using the newest version of the Voigtlander 12mm. m lens. To me, "all but gone means "nearly gone." Can you state or, better, show an example of what you mean by "nearly". I ask this because I am currently trying to decide whether or not to purchase the aforesaid lens. I already have the Voigtlander 15mm. m. That lens certainly produces magenta corners which are not "all but gone".

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As regards the terrible results, you'll have to give us more specific information on what's going wrong.

 

Sandy

 

thanks for responding here. So far all the images ended up with an increase in red noise- and not at the edges but all over- and especially in the middle. I am fairly sure I am doing something wrong but like others here I found it hard to exactly follow the steps- and to know what to adjust. I think also my profiles were all wrong- though I tried to get them right. I tried to follow the PDF guide.... but my brain hurts trying to understand what I am reading... Like others here I would love a simple system with three big buttons: load-fix-export ;-) However I will have another look a the software and see if I can make sense of it.

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thanks for responding here. So far all the images ended up with an increase in red noise- and not at the edges but all over- and especially in the middle. I am fairly sure I am doing something wrong but like others here I found it hard to exactly follow the steps- and to know what to adjust. I think also my profiles were all wrong- though I tried to get them right. I tried to follow the PDF guide.... but my brain hurts trying to understand what I am reading... Like others here I would love a simple system with three big buttons: load-fix-export ;-) However I will have another look a the software and see if I can make sense of it.

 

Well, CornerFix doesn't change the image in the center, so I'd think there is something else going on. But if you don't sort out the problem, then send me the reference image, and I'll take a look at it.

 

Sandy

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Just my opinion, but CornerFix rocks. I was able to set it up and create a profile for my CV15mm M-mount in about 15 minutes. The output looks great to my eye. To generate the profile image, I set the f-stop to 9.5, ISO160, WB to manual, uncompressed DNG, Lens selection to "off", AE with exposure compensation set to +2, focused somewhere in the middle of the range, pointed it at the light table about 3 inches above, kept the camera moving while tripping the shutter, yielding a 1/15th sec exposure. I took two shots, one to set the WB, the other to grab the image. I spent about 45sec spotting out some sensor dust spots visible at 2:1 magnification before my OCD meds kicked in. Then I followed the excellent instructions, and ran a series of shots through the CornerFix grinder in about 30 seconds. Here's my calibration image:

 

858727275_7q7th-M.jpg

 

And here's a link to the gallery with the finished output. I ended up dialing back in a bit of the luminance vignetting, since the shots looked a little unnatural with it 100% corrected. The process was so simple, I even calibrated a pinhole with a 21mm equivalent focal length.

 

I've attached the CV15mm profile I generated to this message but had to change the extension to ".txt" since only certain file extension are allowed as attachments. It's only a 4KB file, so it shouldn't stress the forum server, but if I have violated forum protocol, I invite the mods to let me know and I will remove it. After downloading, before opening or using it, change the ".txt" extension back to ".cpf".

 

But honestly, if you have the computer savvy to post to this forum, you have more than enough skills to set up CornerFix with your own profile using your own body & lens.

 

Thanks Sandy, for an elegant and simple solution to a vexing problem.

CV15 CF profile.txt

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jdavidr, I'm sorry but you lost me just after you said "To generate the profile image........" :D

 

Yes, I'm sure its easy if you've done it once. Its the hours of reading the instructions and going through posts on LUF that also need taking into consideration, not the 15 minutes doing the thing!

 

Sandy, thanks, I'll have another go, maybe enough knowledge has percolated into my brain that I won't need the instructions, indeed it may be better for me to ignore them!

 

Steve

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In my experience, the difficulty is in getting the right profile. With these super-wide lenses, getting lighting such that the image is evenly illuminated can be a challenge; you also then want to get the WB correct (and very neutral), and clean out any obvious dark dust spots. Once you have a solid reference image and have generated your profile, then the process of using CornerFix is very easy and is very much "set it and forget it."

 

Jeff

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Alnitak, what do you that the magenta corners are "all but gone" when using the newest version of the Voigtlander 12mm. m lens. To me, "all but gone means "nearly gone." Can you state or, better, show an example of what you mean by "nearly". I ask this because I am currently trying to decide whether or not to purchase the aforesaid lens. I already have the Voigtlander 15mm. m. That lens certainly produces magenta corners which are not "all but gone".

 

Sorry, I think you misunderstood me. It's not a situation of the new 12mm lens vs. the old one; they are both the same in terms of red edge issues. It's the new firmware I was referring to. Using version 1.116 firmware in the M9, and coding the lens as the 21mm f/2.8 pre-ASPH Elmarit 11134 will greatly reduce the red edge on the M9. It's still there, but in many cases its not visible. Here's a picture of a blue sky, which is the worst situation for revealing the problem, short of a pure white subject.

 

4577423454_b2054db4e4_o.jpg

 

I'm working on a review of the Voigtlander UWA lenses and how to best use them on the M9. It will included detailed instructions on the best approach to using CornerFix with the lenses. When it's done, I'll post it up here--give me another couple of weeks.

 

Jeff

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Here are my ZM 18mm profiles.

 

You don't have to worry about dust bunnies at all, the vignetting gradients are vector calculations to my knowledge. The dust bunnies remain on corrected shots even if they are in the calibration target.

Edited by thrice
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Sandy,

 

Above, thanks for the suggestion of creating the profile at f8- this should work fine. I think I had been developing my base shots fully open. Also, as a suggestion for lighting, outside with a white board has provided wonderfully even lighting.

 

Since the latest firmware, it appears that the corrections vary for each ISO level. From Leica's literature:

 

• New ISO setting-related vignetting correction: strong correction at ISO 160, lowest ISO

correction at 2500, interpolated for intermediate ISO steps.

 

Does this now mean we need to make profiles for each ISO setting, and if so, how fine: 200, 400, 800, 160, or every half stop, etc.?

 

Thanks, Sandy.

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Since the latest firmware, it appears that the corrections vary for each ISO level. From Leica's literature:

 

• New ISO setting-related vignetting correction: strong correction at ISO 160, lowest ISO

correction at 2500, interpolated for intermediate ISO steps.

 

Does this now mean we need to make profiles for each ISO setting, and if so, how fine: 200, 400, 800, 160, or every half stop, etc.?

 

Does the Leica-generated ISO setting-related vignetting correction have any effect when lens detection is turned off? :confused:

When I generated the calibration image, and now when I mount my CV15mm, I set lens detection to be completely OFF.

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