waltron Posted January 6, 2019 Share #21 Posted January 6, 2019 Advertisement (gone after registration) Super old thread but.... To the OP, did you ever get to the bottom of this issue? I think I have the same thing happening with my new to me MA which is probably mostly manufactured from the same parts as the MP. On the negative, some of the frames bleed into the gap between frames and have slightly wavy edges on one side. In the picture below my MA negatives are on top and my old M6 on the bottom which shows nice sharp frame edges... Perhaps I am being too picky but it doesn't feel right for a virtually brand new MA. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/118961-distance-between-frames/?do=findComment&comment=3659458'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 6, 2019 Posted January 6, 2019 Hi waltron, Take a look here distance between frames. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
pico Posted January 6, 2019 Share #22 Posted January 6, 2019 The MA negatives appear to be considerably over-exposed which can contribute to light piping past the pressure plate border. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adan Posted January 6, 2019 Share #23 Posted January 6, 2019 Pico may be right - but, otherwise, yes it is perhaps a bit too picky. For two cameras built up to 32 years apart (depends on the age of your M6). A lot of manufacturing "water under the bridge" has passed in that time. Where and how the parts are made. machined in-house by Leica (old) or by Uwe Weller Feinwerketechnik (newer); other parts made in Wetzlar, Solms, Portugal or Wetzlar again. New factory equipment, new "rationalized" CNC milling and assembly flows. Jeez, your M6 has a zinc top plate, the MP/MA use brass - might as well complain about that! It has always been assumed that the edges of film negatives will be "cropped off" anyway. Either by the negative carriers in enlargers or scanners, or by slide mounts for Kodachrome and such. And because the negs always capture more than the framelines show in any case. To get the exact picture you "framed" requires cropping any Leica neg about 5-15%±, depending on subject distance. It is not "mission-critical" that the gap between frames be 1.53mm or 1.47mm - so long as the gap is a consistent 1.47mm or 1.53mm in any one camera, and the overall center-to-center spacing is the correct "8 sprocket holes" that Oscar Barnack specced, and they don't randomly overlap. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko.Fe. Posted January 6, 2019 Share #24 Posted January 6, 2019 (edited) Frame gap doesn't seems to be anywhere critical, but vertical curve of the edge is odd. I often print entire frame and can't recall this curve. Frame 32, 33 would give me odd shape even if it is in the negative holder. Edited January 6, 2019 by Ko.Fe. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted January 6, 2019 Share #25 Posted January 6, 2019 (edited) [... deleted ...] Edited January 6, 2019 by pico Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted January 7, 2019 Share #26 Posted January 7, 2019 (edited) Pico is right, the MA strip is bleeding light through over exposure, so no fault of the camera unless a well exposed negative still shows a problem. We also have to assume the same lens was used on both cameras otherwise further bleeding could occur from using a wider lens. As for the curved vertical edges of the top strip, don't you think it's just accidental distortion caused in photographing them? The bottom neg strip is clearly sharper than the top, and the top clearly distorted on the left side, and if it is also not perfectly flat on the lightbox and is bowing up................? The take away point may be that the M6 had a built in light meter and the MA doesn't, so what method is the OP using to meter the scene? Edited January 7, 2019 by 250swb Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 8, 2019 Share #27 Posted January 8, 2019 Advertisement (gone after registration) Here‘s to getting a brand-new cam, when 40-60 years old specs suffice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabrielaszalos Posted May 13, 2020 Share #28 Posted May 13, 2020 @jbl did you find out if this is normal? I have also noticed the irregular spacing on my new MP occasionally. Happened two times on my latest roll. I have looked through older rolls too (past 20) and I did notice that occasionally it happened that two frames were closer together than others (never overlapping). Frankly I will abstain from contacting Leica Customer Care because I am pretty sure they will ask me to send the camera in and it’s not something I want to do... Not sure if normal or not. My Pentax K1000 doesn’t seem to have it. Perhaps it was too cheap to have mechanical problems (sarcasm). In the attached photo, the bigger spacing is the normal, and the smaller ones are the exception. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/118961-distance-between-frames/?do=findComment&comment=3972353'>More sharing options...
a.noctilux Posted May 13, 2020 Share #29 Posted May 13, 2020 (edited) Gabrielaszalos, do you remember which lens was used when the gaps are close ? My bet is one of the WA symetrical lens. In this respect since decades, I've had this "narrow gaps" when using Super-Angulon 4/21mm, less with modern lens like Elmarit-M 2.8/21, even lesser when I use the nice Olympus Zuiko 2/21mm (for SLR adapted to M). With more modern lenses (less close to the film like symetrical lenses), spacing may be mostly regular. Have a look here Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! this figure may explain why SLR which use telecentric lenses never have narrow spacing between frames M can use lenses closer to film, so this kind of "problem" only with those "deep inside" lenses 😉 See post # 13 also, Andy's post Edited May 13, 2020 by a.noctilux Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! this figure may explain why SLR which use telecentric lenses never have narrow spacing between frames M can use lenses closer to film, so this kind of "problem" only with those "deep inside" lenses 😉 See post # 13 also, Andy's post ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/118961-distance-between-frames/?do=findComment&comment=3972461'>More sharing options...
gabrielaszalos Posted May 13, 2020 Share #30 Posted May 13, 2020 I used the same lens for the whole roll: Summilux 35mm ASPH FLE. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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