jtank Posted December 14, 2006 Share #1 Posted December 14, 2006 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello all I've had my MP and 50 lux ASPH for about 3 months now, and am thoroughly enjoying using this equipment. Have tried slides, and I realise what everyone is talking about when words like sharp, contrast, etc ware bandied about on any Leica forum. To my dismay, however, I am thoroughly disappointed with my prints. I get my film developed and printed at Photoland, which according to people is a professional developer/printer in Seoul.However, the prints look like what I used to get in India 10 years ago with a cheap nikon F60 and a cheap Nikon 50mm lens. Given the brilliant transparencies from the Leica, I'm wondering if it could be something wrong at the printer's end. Given that I don't know any Korean and the guys at photoland know zip english, I just about managed to extract from them that they use a Fuji Frontier printer. And I have been using good film, like Fuji 400H. Could someone guide me on this issue? Am I supposed to ask for something in particular when handing the film in? It's almost like there's too much colour on the paper when I see the printed photo, and the best way I can describe it is that there is a clear lack of detail, & sharpness in the print. Unfortunately I do not own a scanner, else I would have been able to show you what I am talking about. Best regards Jehangir Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted December 14, 2006 Posted December 14, 2006 Hi jtank, Take a look here Your best advice on printing??. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Rolo Posted December 14, 2006 Share #2 Posted December 14, 2006 I suspect you will be generally disappointed by lab prints following film processing. You need to bring out your feel for the shot. The lab should make an excellent job of your interpretation. Assuming you're prepared to work on the computer, try this. http://www.leica-camera-user.com/film-forum/11352-scan-disc.html It might help you a lot. You will need a photo programme though such as PhotoShop or Elements. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted December 14, 2006 Share #3 Posted December 14, 2006 Rolo, there is always a lot of discussion about after market scanning programs, tweaking for best results and stuff. What about printing programs or does everyone just use the one provided by the printer manufacturer? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobtodrick Posted December 14, 2006 Share #4 Posted December 14, 2006 The 'professional printer' is a subjective term. There are 'pro lab' services out there that are only a step above drug store processing...they just have a longer turn around time. A real 'pro printer' will go over your transparency (or test print) with you, having you tell them what sort of contrast you want, where you want dodging and burning done (if any), and where you want the color set (skin tones vs foliage for example). If they are doing things like this then you are just getting someone elses idea of what your image should look like...not necessarily what you want. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted December 14, 2006 Share #5 Posted December 14, 2006 The 'professional printer' is a subjective term.There are 'pro lab' services out there that are only a step above drug store processing...they just have a longer turn around time. A real 'pro printer' will go over your transparency (or test print) with you, having you tell them what sort of contrast you want, where you want dodging and burning done (if any), and where you want the color set (skin tones vs foliage for example). I agree bob, there's all shades of grey out there. I assumed, perhaps wrongly that we are discussing first pass 36 exposure processing on some sort of tight budget. I can't afford David Adamson to print by the roll for me. For, me, getting through the dross is easier on screen as there's an opportunity to bend a curve or two to see what's there. A good frame can be identified, manipulated, re-scanned, passed to an expert printer or taken into the darkroom. Re scanning, I use the Nikon software with my 8000 ED and Silversfast Ai with a desktop. I'm not an expert, but get by and have yet to meet any lab technician that is as good because they lack the enthusiasm. eg I was showing my local 'Pro' lab what I wanted on some £50 prints. The techie said "what's that you're doing? Never seen that before." I'm using Curves and filling with black, said I. I know there are better around, but this Lab is as good as they get in this City. :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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