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M8 and Old Glass


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I consider my Canon 50/1.2 LTM part of my essential kit for my M8.2's, it exhibits plenty of center sharpness and a very pleasant edge softness wide open. By 2.8 it changes its character and by 5.6 it renders quite modern, as in sharp and contrasty edge to edge.


It is a real frustration that my favorite "once new, now old" lens, my 21/3.4 Super Angulon just doesn't work for me on my M8.2's. The crop factor eliminates much of what I love about this lens which I have had since 1978. I will, in time, remedy this frustration with a M9, until then I use the CV 15/4.5 (M mount) for a 21mm look and interestingly, its light fall off is reminiscent of my 21/3.4 SA, although it doesn't render at all the same.



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Glad you picked up the 8.5cm F2. It is the lens that made Nikon famous. It is very good, even wide-open. I need to put mine on the M8, will adapt a 49mm IR cut filter to it.


I like it so far, though I've only used it for a few shots in my last portrait session. Didn't actually have a UV/IR filter at the time. One just arrived in the mail, though. I'm looking forward to seeing how this thing fits into my portrait work.

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Here's a few more pics from the M8 + 1951 LTM 35/3.5 Summaron combo:


Tim, February, 2010



In The Coffee Roaster, February, 2010



Bean Bags, The Coffee Roaster, February, 2010



Bike Ride, February, 2010



The little lens is a joy to use- quick to focus, even with all that travel and an apeture ring that travels with the focus.

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Nikkor 5cm F1.4 "Tokyo" (early) in LTM, UV/IR cut filter, on theM8




At F4:



I have to admit: I like 1/8000th shutter speed for wide-open shots in snow.







The early Nikkor F1.4 lenses are slightly smaller diameter optics than the later lenses marked "Japan". Probably because they were designed for the 24x34 frame. When the Nikon S2 went to 24x36, the optics also changed to reduce vignetting. The latter is my guess, but I know the diameter was increased from taking several lenses apart.


On the 1.3x crop: no vignetting!

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Guest Chris M

Can I use my 35 2.8 Summaron w/bayonet and my 50 2.0 Sumitar with out coding and still get a nice shots? or do I need to have these lens coded? ? and lastly who makes ir/uv filters for these lens? and does any of this stuff matter if all I'm going to to anyways is convert it all to B&W ?


chris m.

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A few more from the M8 and 35/3.5 Summaron...


Sue And Michael, February, 2010



Saying Hello To Sarah, February, 2010



Saying Hello To Domino, February, 2010



I'm using the Summaron uncoded and without an IR filter. I use Jamie's color profile in Capture 1 and it and the curves tool takes care of most IR problems.

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On the Summitar: if you wanted to use IR cut filters, look for an adapter to use standard 39mm filters with it. I made one out of an old Summitar Type A color correction filter, gone with the lens.


Doing Black and White: you will not notice a "real" difference. The color correction on the Summitar is so good that the IR focusing index is close to F2 DOF mark.


I have yet to use a coded lens. It is more important for Wide-Angle lenses to counter vignetting.

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Family pics in interiors... M8 with Summarit 50 1,5 : wide open the first two, closed to 4 the third; I love a lot this lens.

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Hello all,


I really like your shots!


Here is a shot from my 1961 50mm summilux (cannot remember the aperture though):

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Edited by sbac
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Chris M,

you shouldn't need to code a 50mm lens. The Summitar has an odd thread, but you can have someone make a Summitar-to-E39 adapter, as suggested. SK Grimes used to stock these, actually.

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An uncommon lens: a 5cm F1.5 "Simlar", from ~1950. This is the lens that came with a Leotax Camera, this is the 74th one made.


At F1.5:



At F4.



This is an interesting 1-3-2-1 Planar formula lens, an attempt at a fast lens without increasing the number of groups like the Summarit did.


Focus shift is huge on this lens!

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