Stand Development

[Guest Metroman]

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Anyone stand or semi-stand developing? I thought I would give it a whirl this weekend with the Adox APH09. It's something I have always meant to have a go at. I get bored listening to the Jobo CPE-2 whirring round

[vic vic]

andy - what it is stand developemnt??? that u put water for a minute before puting developer, or that u make development without agitation????

 

development without agitation is not good, u will loose tonality contrast, and the image will be too grey - too much most of the time.

 

water bath before puting developer will increase density, especailly in weak parts (shadows). but make sure u make tests.

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[Guest Metroman]

Vic many receipes but I plan on:

 

Adox APH09 (Old Rodinal formula) on some Classic Pan 400.

 

5 mins pre-soak in water

1:100 diution

5 secs agitation

stand 1 hour

 

Some nice results here.

[Mark Antony]

I tried stand development, and on the whole I like it for the more contrasty emulsions like Fuji Acros, it can give increased 'edge effects' and gives a longer tonal range, so suits if you want to scan.

I find though that some emulsions suffer from development inconsistencies due to bromide in their emulsions, I've been warned against using the method with Plus-x.

I do a sort of low agitation development with Rodinal, first min continuous then one tilt of the drum every 2 mins thereafter, Acros looks nice at 18mins with this method.

Mark

[treeplanter]

Lot of discussion on APUG regarding stand development. You may want to try there to see what they say.

 

Jim Bielecki

[christer]

i have experimented with stand development of hp5 (shot at 800) in rodinal 1+150. i found 75 mins at 20° was best. i agitated the first 30 secs, then ten seconds after some minutes and ten seconds again a quarter of an hour later. i used 2 ml rodinal per film. the results were not significantly different from developing 10 mins in 1+25.

 

chris

[william wooten]

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I like to use a drop of LFN or Photoflo in the first water rinse. You have to use a water rinse, or the developer will streak the image. I use FG-7 but Rodinal 1:100 would also work well. Agitate for two minutes, then pound the tank to remove all air bubbles... let stand one hour without further agitation. If you agitate again during development you are loosing most of the "self-masking" effects of the local developer depletion. The idea is for highly exposed areas to develop and the developer exhausts itself and stops working (forming a "cloud" over those areas), in areas of less exposure the developer keeps working during the entire "standing" time. While I don't practice this often I have found it works very well when you have a huge contrast range, wildly different exposures on the same roll, exposed a film at the wrong ISO (say 100 ISO @ 1600) or guessed at exposure for any of the reasons we dare not admit to others.