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Found 10 results

  1. Hi, i'm new to Q and curently i set AWB when i start shooting. My friend told me that he adjust manual White balance everytimes he shoot at diffirent enviroment. So what is your advice for white balance for Q? you do AWB or manual adjust it? Would love to hear from you guy.
  2. It seems to me there are two ways to use a white balance card: 1. Put the camera in set white balance mode and photograph the card while it covers the little rectangle on the screen. Now your white balance is set for the current lighting. It seems to me that this approach is only useful if you plan to use out-of-the camera JPEGs. 2. Just take a photo of the white balance card and use it to set the white balance when you process the DNG. This seems much simpler, but of course you have to process the RAW image. Does the above make sense so far? When using approach #1, does the card have to be in focus? I ask because if I hold the card at arm's length, it's not in focus unless I go into macro mode. But if I can just take a picture of an out-of-focus card to set the white balance then I don't have to switch into macro mode.
  3. I like the concept of the M262 as a stripped down rangefinder for those who do not need or want live view and video. For those who have used the M262, three questions: 1) How does the range/viewfinder compare with the M9, M240, and film Ms for clarity and ease of focusing? 2) How does dynamic range compare vs M9 and 240? 3) How does white balance compare? Thank you in advance.
  4. I am having issues with the WB value on M9-P, or rather the value that Lightroom brings the image in at. I have an M9-P with firmware v 1.196. I shoot at 6000k, but when I import the image (DNG) into Adobe Lightroom 5.2 the WB setting gets altered to 4820k. I raise or lower the WB value and although there is no linear correlation between the value set on the camera and the value set on the imported image, the value assigned to the image in Lightroom is still markedly different from the value that the image has been shot at. I went into Leica Mayfair yesterday and tried the following steps to isolate the cause of the problem: 1. Importing the same image into another copy of Lightroom and it produces similar results although not actually reaching the same WB value as my installation of Lightroom did. Both versions were identical (5.2), and they are vanilla installations with no import filters applied. 2. I have tried shooting at 6000k on an M9 body (provided by Leica UK) with firmware 1.196 and when importing the image it changed the value to 5200k 3. I then tried shooting at 6000k on an M-240 body and it imported at 5800k (closer but still not 6000k). The results are inconclusive - is the problem in the camera (Is there a colour calibration file/setting embedded inside the camera that needs changing/updating? Is the camera writing the full metadata settings to the DNG file?) or is Adobe Lightroom 5.2 not able to import/interpret the metadata correctly and is therefore converting at a different value? Has anyone else experienced the same problem? It is hugely frustrating and I'm struggling to know where to turn next. Although they were helpful and we had a long discussion about this problem Leica Mayfair weren't able to advise on next steps. I have the images from yesterday's experiments. I would like to get in contact with Leica in Germany directly but can't seem to find an email address. Thanks in advance.
  5. Hi, I've just bought my very first leica a few days ago and have been exploring & testing the functions, and reading many of the threads on this forum which has been very helpful. The image quality is wonderful, although I'm still getting used to the focussing. I bought (from 2 different leica dealers) a mint cond. M8 (less than 300 shots taken & the dealer said that the sensor tested fine) & Summicron 28mm f/2 (6 bit). However, I've found marks in some of the images, and am not sure if it is the lens or the sensor, which makes it a little tricky when I bought them from independent dealers. Samples are posted at MobileMe Gallery and these were taken after cleaning the lens with a leica lens cloth. Can anyone determine whether it is the sensor or lens? Also, the white balance was fine until I started playing with it. Now it seems a little inconsistent, giving images a slight blue tinge. The sensor/lens tests shown were taken on white paper, auto white balance, but have turned out very grey. The last image was taken with manual white balance - and certainly better, but still a little grey. Is this something to be concerned about? Thanks, Julie
  6. Hi, I've been documenting an old train garage | warehouse for a documentary project. My intention was to do it with the Leica m9. Yet, I have been having a very difficult time with the white balance in the mix lighting conditions of this location (take a look at the attached image). This happened with numerous images in different parts of the warehouse. I shot it with automatic white balance, and also tried other camera white balance presets as well without much success. Somehow, the Canon 5Dm2 in this same lighting conditions, and also in auto white balance seems to be doing a better work at deciphering the color temperature. Any suggestions on how to deal with this? And also, any idea how to remove the 'yellow' in the hair of this image? Thanks in advanced for your help with this. Martin Herrera | Award-winning documentary and travel photography. Assignment freelance photography in South America region.
  7. I have recently been experimenting with Lightroom 3 and find it useful for processing photos quickly. I do wonder whether it is possible to use LR to do fine tuning of color, however. In the past I have used Photoshop (and ACR) to process fine art images. As one step in this process (after adjusting overall WB as best as I am able) I use Levels to precisely set the black point in the image to a neutral black and the white point to a neutral white (I do this using color samplers and fine tuning the levels sliders in the color channels). I find that this process yields a richness and subtlety of color in the shadow areas of the image. It is also the case that once this is done, the overall image looks well adjusted to my eyes (without setting some neutral grey in the middle of the range) Having said this, I have two questions: 1) I am not an expert on color and wonder if this process makes sense. For example, while I get the subtlety of color does this also eliminate color "casts" that may be desirable when photographing in early or late light? 2) Is there a way to do anything similar in Lightroom? It seems that I can only set the overall WB (as I would in ACR) and then export to Photoshop for any more subtle control. Any comments or insight would be welcome. Donald
  8. Hi Guys, I am going to a party tonight and I would love to get your recommendations on how I can setup the AW balance manually to work with the built in flash so it doesn't bring a blueish color cast to the pictures. I am using a grey card to setup the perfect white balance for the current lightning conditions, but when I fire the bounce flash, everything get a blue cast. I tried selecting the auto flash White Balance, but it brings an yellow-ish color cast... So far, it doesn't seem possible to get the AW right... Is shooting RAW the only solution for this? Thanks in advance, Carlos
  9. I'm trying to get thoroughly acquainted with my camera; I've had good results using it in the point-and-shoot style, but I want to progress. I've been reading a pretty good general book about digital photography, and I've just read a fairly lengthy section on White Balance. I've been using WB set to Automatic (I assume - I sure as heck didn't set it myself!), and the results have been fine. The WB seems a bit of a fiddly adjustment to make, but the author of the book seemed to think that the WB was a meaningful part of the photos. How do you guys approach the white balance issue with your D-Lux 4's? Are you satisfied with the AutoWB? Any particular tips or suggestions? Also, I'm shooting RAW; does that mean that the WB setting is not really all THAT important, because I can manipulate the image in Photoshop? Thanks for any suggestions, Jaze
  10. I've notice the ISO has automatically set to 100 when the shutter dial on a red flash symbol or I think it's 1/200. My question is will the WB also automatcally dial-in to "flash" accordingly or stay at whatever before (auto or something else)? Thank you.
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