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  1. Hallo zusammen Ich besitze M-Kameras und eine SL, neu möchte ich auch ins R-System einsteigen. Zu diesem Zweck kaufte ich mir eine Leicaflex SL2. Nun ist die Frage, welches das beste Objektiv dafür ist. Auf einer Webseite wurde das 50mm Summicron-R f2 II empfohlen (Artikel Nr 11215). Nun ist es gar nicht so einfach, dieses Objektiv zu finden. Häufiger sehe ich die Artikel Nr. 11216, welche auch als 50mm Summicron-R f2 II bezeichnet wird. Was ist der Unterschied zwischen diesen beiden Versionen und welche ist besser? Ist das 11216 auch mit der Leicaflex SL2 kompatibel und könnt ihr es empfehlen? Danke für eure Hilfe und lieber Gruss David
  2. Hallo Zusammen, Ich hoffe, dass ich mich hier als Neuling mit seinem ersten Beitrag nicht gleich blamiere. Ich habe heute, bei einem Händler, ein gebrauchtes 90er Summicron aus den 60ern erstanden. eigentlich kaufe ich keine gebrauchten Objektive aber da dieses bei einem Händler stand, habe ich mir das Glas vor Ort leider nicht gut genug angeschaut. Zu Hause habe ich das gute Stück auf eine beleuchtete Unterfläche gestellt und mit einer Lupe etwas genauer inspiziert. Ich werde mal ein Foto anhängen, da ich mir sicher bin, dass sich hier in diesem Forum reichlich Leute befinden, die mir sagen können ob es sich um einen Pilzbefall handelt, oder ob es doch nur ein Einschluss von Schmutzpartikeln ist. Wenn man das Bild etwas vergrößert, sehen die drei Flecken (zumindest für mich) nicht nach Schmutz, sondern nach einem Fungus aus. Ich würde mich freuen, wenn mir da Jemand Gewissheit oder Beruhigung geben könnte. Gruß H.Berger
  3. Hi everyone, I own a Summicron 50mm V2 DR and Type 1. I know the lens head should be detachable from the focusing mechanism in order to mount on bellows. This works correctly on the Type 1, but on the DR, when I turn the lens head, only the section housing the front elements rotates, thus revealing the aperture blades inside once removed, instead of detaching all elements in one block. I could try bypassing this section by rotating the aperture ring, but this feels unsafe as rotating the ring with force might damage the blades inside. I hope I've explained this clearly enough - not sure if anyone has a solution? I'm trying to remove the lens head on both lenses in order to swap them out, since the DR optics are cleaner but I prefer the size of the Type 1. (P.S. I'm not the type to attempt lens repair/cleaning myself, but this is a function built into the lens by Leica) Thanks in advance
  4. In a recent interview in Austrian Der Standard Peter Karbe was asked which camera and lens would be his preferred choice. The answer was "not an easy one", but it would be M11 and APO-Summicron 35. "STANDARD: One last question: If you had to choose a combo, what would be your camera and your lens of choice? Karbe: The M11 and APO-Summicron 35mm. But that's one of those questions... which of your children do you like best? If I had to choose, I would use this combination." Here is the link to the full (unlocked) Peter Karbe Der Standard interview (in German) by Mickey Manakas, where he speaks about the compromise in building the Noctilux f/0.95 and its evident flaws, the "Leica Look" myth, his views on smartphone photography, his pride in personally calculating the optical formula for Summilux 50 ASPH and many other cool topics: https://www.derstandard.at/story/2000144541043/leitender-optikexperte-bei-leica-wir-waren-vorreiter-bei-der-digitalisierung
  5. https://www.tumblr.com/tokyo-camera-style/735642699701600256/totem-pole-photo-gallery-shinjuku-a-custom Repaint by Shueido. (Photo: Screenshot)
  6. Hi all, I have the worst luck buying Leica gear. Just purchased my 2nd 50 Cron IV on eBay. The seller mentioned haze, and I asked a lot of questions about it, but he really described it as no big deal. Got it today and found a pretty harsh ring of haze (or?) when light is pushed through. Looks decent otherwise, but I paid a competitive price ($950 USD). I really don’t want to go through another eBay return—the seller only mentioned in a DM, where I was asking specific questions about the lens, that he would offer to return for me if I wasn’t happy. I’m a shooter, don’t mind imperfections, but I do like to have nice gear. Was thinking of sending out for a CLA and forget about it. Obviously another $100 that I don’t want to spend, but ugh. what do you guys think? edit: also the small set screws on the aperture ring show a small amount of rust. I was wondering if that might be a sign of what contributed to the optical issue, poor storage perhaps?
  7. Hello everyone, I have a question about the dimensions of the Leica 11310 lens with the (square) hood mounted, I think the model is 12524 and/or 12526. Currently, I use a Biogon 2/35 which I love but sometimes I find the lens protrusion from camera body quite long. The lens alone protrudes 1.75" from the camera body; with the UV filter and hood mounted, it protrudes to 2.4375" (7/16) from the camera body which is fine in some situations but unwieldy in others. The hood and UV filter are used to protect from bumps. I had the chance to mount an 11310 to my camera which seems to protrude about an inch from the body but at the time the vendor did not have the hood so I had no way of even guesstimating where it would end up. Can anyone who has this lens + hood combo provide a measurement?
  8. I have a 1936 IIIa (s.n. 184223) that is in need of a lens, and I am now in a position to purchase one. I am leaning towards an f3.5 Elmar, as I think it complements the design of the camera beautifully both in compactness and in general appearance. The other lenses that are possibilities look a bit heavier and some even a bit too modern (even though some of them are not) for an 85 year old camera. I do have some points that I would appreciate comments on from those who know more about things Leica than I do, before I part with my cash. Firstly, condition. Quite a few lenses of this age have either dust or haze in the optics, and others have light marks. Would I be correct in assuming that dust or haze (provided the haze is not excessive) could be fixed with a CLA, as could a stiff aperture ring or focusing ring, but marks would generally not go away? Secondly, coatings. I see that, as a rule, Pre-War lenses are clear, and Post-War lenses are coated, and I understand the basic reasoning behind coating lenses is to cut down internal reflections but, in lenses of this quality, is there really much of a difference between the two? As for the lenses that I’m looking at: Elmar f3.5: My preferred option, as it is so light and compact and just looks so right on a Barnack Leica; Elmar f2.8: Aside from the extra f-stop, is there any reason for preferring this over the f3.5 Elmar? I find it does not have quite the same visual appeal as the f3.5 Elmar, but it could be useful in low light situations. Summar f2: Maybe another lens to consider. Again, not quite the same visual appeal as the f3.5 Elmar, but it could also be useful in low light situations. Summitar: From what I can see, it appears to be an updated and improved version of the Summar. Compared with the Elmar, and even the Summar, it looks a trifle bulky (yes, I know it isn’t really). Summicron: I’m not so keen on this one, as I find the appearance of the earlier lenses more appealing. I would also prefer to fit my camera with a lens that’s a bit closer to what it originally had. I have heard that the front element is made of an unusually soft glass, which means that these lenses are often badly scratched. Is this so? Thank you in advance for helping a newcomer to the world of Leicas.
  9. Please share your opinion - if you have used or owned both lenses or any opinion on the topic. Mostly interested in comparison of render, sharpness, bokeh, pop etc. according to you - digital sensor or film. Early reports indicated the Hexanons were inferior. According to LHSA "some Hexanon early samples were reported to have focusing discrepancies, long since resolved, and that adversely affected initial sales. The current consensus: Konica KM and Leica M lenses, even those with longer focal lengths and wider apertures, can be used interchangeably on both cameras without problems." Lots of posts ot the tiny flange difference between the cameras, but here we discuss the lens. Mr. Rockwell even went as far as comparing the build of Summicron 50 (V) to the Hexanon-M 50 side by side and they indeed look almost identical. Check the pic on his webpage under the Hexanon topic. I have recently acquired a Hexanon-M 50/2 (photographed below on my M) and it is a stellar performer, slightly better wide open (especially corners) compared to Summicron M 50/2 (IV) in all the tests I did. YMMV.
  10. Hi, I have a 50mm summicron on an m4 body for film and was looking to pickup a digital body and adapter to use the lens on, I’m looking at the Fuji xpro 1 as it’s available cheaply and the form factor looks similar to my M4. Has anybody used an xpro with Leica m lens’s and if so how did they find the experience ? I’m not overly concerned about image quality as to be honest all digital raw files are easy to manipulate/work with. Other than the xpro there is the Sony Alpha range. Any info on this topic would be great, I have read through the topics on here but wanted an up to date assessment of the idea. thanks !
  11. I keep hearing good things about the Leica 40mm f2 Summicron. (also read Minolta Rokkor option). Just wondering if it’s as good as the reviews appear to be. Currently have a Nokton 35mm 1.4 & a 50mm 1.2 Nokton. The 50mm is a great lens but quite big and the 35 1.4 is a bit of a so and so for vignetting. Wondering if the 40mm f2 would cut the mustard on my M6/M10 combination.
  12. Hello All. I have a Summicron 28mm 2.0 Aspherical Lens. The model on the lens is "4068358" Does anyone have info about this specific version? Thanks, Michael
  13. Back in October when I bought my M10-P I also picked up a Voigtlander 50mm f1.2 but the call of the Summicron is loud and I quite fancy picking up a 50mm f2. I like the Voigtlander albeit I think it’s a bit bigger than ideal and weighty too. Wondering if a Summicron (v4 or v5) is really that ‘much better’ than the Voigtlander and if I’ll save save weight/size if I swapped over to one. Thoughts anyone?
  14. I am purchasing my first Leica! The M10-p. I was wondering which lens should I go with (current version brand new), the 35mm Summilux or 35mm Summicron. I do not consider the $ what so ever. Why go with one over the other? Is the Summilux strictly better but a matter of $$? Mostly street & reportage-style photography
  15. Hello, I'm new to the forum and hope to get some help from all your combined years of expertise. I want to buy my first 50mm, have a 35mm Summilux on the M-10P. After obsessive days of research I've settled on the rigid 50mm Summicron because I want to make pictures with a softer look. This would be my first time buying used on ebay so I'm being cautious. The seller is LeitzUSA, anyone have experience with them? LeitzUSA says the original owner purchased the lens brand new in 1975, serial # 245XXX. According to a chart on Ken Rockwell's site the Summicron f/2 Rigid was in production 1956 - 1968. Just wondering about the difference of 7 years from end of production till the purchase year. Does that seem likely? Is this the real deal or a later version? It is supposed to come with cards, hood in original box. Thank you in advance!
  16. Landscape of my region in autumn 2018. This belongs to my first series with my "new" Leica R3 and Summicron 50 mm. Kodak 200 scanned with Epson 850 V Pro.
  17. Eine kleine Auswahl von Bildern aus einer relativ großen Serie die während eines kurzen Trips in die Türkei entstanden ist. Die ganze Serie gibts hier: http://www.philippwortmann.com/istanbul 35mm Kodak Portra 400 - Leica M6 & 35mm Summicron IV lens - gescannt mit Kodak Pakon 135+
  18. This is a small selection of photographs from a series I shot in Istanbul and Bursa during short trip to Turkey. You can check the full series out on my site: http://www.philippwortmann.com/istanbul Or follow me on one of my social media things, down below. All shot on 35mm Kodak Portra 400 with a Leica M6 & 35mm Summicron IV lens. Scanned by myself with a Pakon 135+
  19. I took these photographs in Paris last Thursday, 12th November 2015, with a 28mm Summicron and Monochrom (v.1).
  20. Hi Guys, I am a restaurant operator and I love shooting food when I visit nice restaurants, and I would like to seek your advice regarding taking food shots with a Leica M. I currently use my Nikon D800 + a 50mm F2 Zeiss Makro-Planar to shoot when I go to a restaurant (please note I visit them as a diner, not a paid photographer). However, I would like to explore the capability of taking food photos with my Leica M. I currently own an M240 along with a 50mm APO Summicron lens, a 35mm 8-element Summicron lens, and a 60mm F1.2 Konica Hexanon lens (however I would like to use my 50APO in this scenario due to its sharpness. The 50APO has a 0.7m minimal focusing distance, which is not close enough if I wish to shoot say a piece of sushi. My current setup with the 50mm Zeiss macro lens enables me to get as close as 0.3m to the subject. Furthermore, in a nice restaurant, even with a longer lens, it is rude to move all the way backwards (say a 100mm macro lens) to shoot my food, also a reason I went with a 50mm macro. So I am just wondering whether a macro adapter would help solve my problem. I heard from a friend that with an adaptor, I can only shoot within a particular range from the subject (say for example only from 0.3 to 0.4m from the subject), but this really limits what kind of food I shoot (say a small piece like a sushi, or a large plate of pasta). So I would really appreciate if someone who has experience in this area can help me out. Since I would wish to continue using my 50APO, would a macro adaptor help? And in what range (distance wise) would I be able to shoot if I added an adaptor? Also someone suggested I could also consider using my Zeiss (Nikon mount) on my Leica M with an adaptor, would that work? Would it impact the quality of the photo? Ideally I would wish to use my 50APO on my M to shoot food as I spent quite a lot on this lens and body. Appreciate if someone can help me out. Thanks and regards, J
  21. Hey guys, together with Sailronin (Dave) here from the forum, we manage the 70mm Summarit-S lens group, this gave me the idea to start one for every lens: Super-Elmar-S 24mm Elmarit-S 30mm Summarit-S 35mm Elmarit-S 45mm Summarit-S 70mm Summicron-S 100mm Apo-Macro-Summarit-S 120mm Ts-Apo-Elmar-S 120mm Apo-Elmar-S 180mm Vario-Elmar-S 30-90mm Become a member of the groups you have lenses for, or just browse the groups of lenses you are interested in or maybe want to get to see some samples. Please since the groups are new, add photos to the once you've taken photos with so the groups will soon turn alive! Not that the 70mm lens group is 'owned' by Sailronin, and moderated by me as well hence me sharing it here.
  22. Hatte endlich mal wieder die Gelegenheit und Zeit meine Kamera über einen längeren Zeitraum in der Hand zuhalten Mehr gibts hier: https://www.flickr.com/photos/derphilipppp/
  23. Die ganze Serie gibts hier: https://www.flickr.com/photos/derphilipppp/albums/72157659340180141 Leica M6 - 35mm Summicron IV - Kodak Portra 160 Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr
  24. A small series I did on the Austrian tradition of "Almabtrieb". This is just a selection of pictures from the full series here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/derphilipppp/albums/72157659340180141 Leica M6 - 35mm Summicron IV - Kodak Portra 160 In case you don't know what an "Almabtrieb" is: The "Almabtrieb", which translates from German as: "drive from the mountain pasture", is an annual event in the alpine regions in Europe, referring to a cow train in autumn. During summer, all over the alpine regions cow herds feed on alpine pastures ("Almen" or "Alpen") high up in the mountains (a practice known as transhumance). In numbers, these amount to about 500,000 cows in Austria, 380,000 in Switzerland and 50,000 in Germany. While there is often some movement of cattle between the Almen during the summer, there is usually one concerted cow train in autumn to bring the cows to their stables down in the valley. This typically takes place in late September or early October. If there were no accidents on the Alm during the summer, in many areas the cows are decorated elaborately, and the cow train is celebrated with music and dance events in the towns and villages. Upon arrival in the valley, joint herds from multiple farmers are sorted in the Viehscheid, and each cow is returned to its owner. Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr
  25. I have a 35mm summicron v4 and a 12504 clip-on round lens hood, they work pretty well together, but the hood cannot be fixed in a position, it sometimes rotates, it's not a big deal but this will potentially scratch the barrel which will affect the resale value a lot. The original square doesn't have this problem it can be fixed tightly, but I really like the look of 12504. Is there any way to stop it from rotating? Thanks!!!
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