Search the Community

Hi folks, I currently have SL 601 and I've recently bought SL2, which I'm going to sell soon, so I though to put some info why I'm choosing to stay with 601. It might be helpful for some. First, things I like about SL2 in comparison to SL 601: 1. Better viewfinder, OLED, more contrasty and Sharper (although not by much) 2. Better LCD, noticeably sharper than 601 as it has more pixels 3. USB charging, no need to take additional charger for travel. 4. Ability to use AF lens adapters (on 601 Novoflex is pretty much the only choice and it doesn't really work) 5. Enhanced live view giving a nice boost at very low light situations 6. Eye AF is very nice Now what things made me keep my SL for longer: 1. Although viewfinder is higher res, difference is not huge and if you switch to 120fps it drops resolution to something unusable when half pressed. Viewfinder also has lower magnification. 2. AF is faster, but not significantly better than on my 601 with leica lenses (24-90 and 75/2). I've tested it in different conditions and I was suprised that even in low light 601 didn't perform significantly worse than SL2 3. Rear buttons on a left hand side, which mean to view them you can't really press play with right hand 4. Design changes are questionable. They rounded some corners near the shutter button, which looks weird. Also LCD screen with buttons now extended from the body. Strap lugs are external. 5. Menu looks more complicated now 6. Fotos app still slow, useable as a remote, but that's the same as with 601 7. no GPS, you need to keep phone with BT enabled for geotagging. This is not a problem by itself, however if camera is used by more than one person it is not great 8. Camera is more rubberised, which might be good, however it feels less solid for some reason. I never had an issue with SL 601 ergonomics. My plan was to get rid of SL 601, Sony A7RII+200-600mm and get SL2 + bigma150-600mm instead, but now I think I'll just get another 601 + 150-600mm

This may seem a bit obvious, but after having followed a general principle of having a 2 minute auto power off, and being left with 50% power after a day's walking and maybe 60 images, I decided to switch to a 10 second auto power off, and I'm finding I still have a full bar indicated after the same kind of use. If you've been unhappy with battery-life, I'd recommend playing with the power-off settings and seeing what improvements you can make. For information, I'm not experiencing significant start up delays either. Just touch the shutter button and everything's good to go pretty well immediately.

Next month I’ll be in Northern Canada after polar bears and other wildlife and with luck maybe the northern lights. This will naturally require some periods (up to several hours) outside in below freezing temps (15-30 degrees F). Any advice on how to manage my SL2 and lenses under these conditions? I plan on taking a Sigma 150-600 Sport for reach and a Leica 24-70 for all around use. What do I need to watch out for equipment wise for the periods in the cold temps? It’s a heavy kit - would I be better off with the Leica 100-400 which is 1 pound lighter than the Sigma? How well do adapted m-lenses on the SL2 perform in the cold? Any and all advice will be appreciated.

Hallo liebe Community, ich überlege mir eine SL2 zu kaufen und habe eine Frage, die ich mir selbst durch Internet-Recherche leider noch nicht eindeutig beantworten konnte. Es geht um das Seitenverhältnis. Der Sensor einer SL2 hat selbstverständlich ein Seitenverhältnis einer Kleinbildkamera von 3:2. Als ehemaliger Analog-Mittelformat-Fotograf (6x6, 6x4.5 und das großartige 6x7) werde ich einfach nicht warm mit dem Kleinbild-Seitenverhältnis. Ich schneide mir das Bild hinterher zurecht, aber das "Sehen" in dem Moment fehlt schon sehr. Jetzt zu meiner Frage. Ich habe gelesen, dass die SL2 auch andere Seitenverhältnisse simulieren kann. Die Raw-Dateien behalten dabei praktischerweise das Originalformat. Was ich aber nicht eindeutig beantworten konnte: Passt sich der Viewfinder dem simulierten Seitenverhältnis an? Und wenn ja, wird vielleicht ein Rahmen eingeblendet, ähnlich wie man das von dem VF einer M kennt? Oder wird das Bild im VF direkt "zugeschnitten" mit schwarzen Balken drumherum? Vielen Dank. Oleg

FIRMWARE VERSION 5.2.0 Ihre Leica Kamera wird kontinuierlich verbessert und wir freuen uns, Ihnen jetzt Firmware Version 5.2.0 zur Verfügung zu stellen. Ich habe eben die Info bekommen das für die SL2 und SL2s eine neue Firmware raus ist. SL2: https://leica-camera.com/de-DE/fotografie/kameras/sl/sl2-schwarz/technische-daten?utm_source=CRM&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=20230831_HQ_SL2_SL2-S_FWU_5.2.0&utm_term=https%3A//leica-camera.com/sl2-technical-specs%23sl2-firmware.# SL2s: https://leica-camera.com/de-DE/fotografie/kameras/sl/sl2-s-schwarz/technische-daten?utm_source=CRM&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=20230831_HQ_SL2_SL2-S_FWU_5.2.0&utm_term=https%3A//sl2-s.leica-camera.com/%3Fsubpage%3Dtech-insights%23sl2-s-firmware.#sl2-s-firmware de_sl2-fw5.2-release-notes.pdf

Hi everyone, I´ve been looking for a good fit L-bracket for the SL2 lately and tried some options. I'd thought I´d share my findings with some pictures (below) to maybe help anyone out who's looking for an L-bracket for the SL2. The options I´ve tried are: Kirk ULB-1 3 Legged Thing Ellie Markins PV 100 & LV 170 For me personally I decided that the Markins is the best fit. It is also the lightest and generally has the smallest footprint thanks to the fact that it is possible to have the bracket part adjusted for a snug fit to the side of the camera. Obviously one cannot access any of the ports with the bracket mounted like that, but I don't usually need to. Obviously the Markins is also easily adjusted to extend the bracket part so that the ports are accessible. The Kirk comes in second for me, what I don't like about it on the SL2 is that the bottom main screw for the tripod socket is only adjustable "sideways" and the preset positions are not a good fit for the SL2´s tripod screw that is relatively far towards the back of the camera. Also the bracket part is not adjustable in distance to the body. However, with it mounted it is possible to still easily open the bottom port flap to access the USB-C port for example for charging. The 3 Legged Thing gave me a "gimmicky" impression. It felt a bit wobbly, probably because of the gap in the bracket part (that obviously also has advantages for cable management, I don't need this though). It also comes fairly close to the strap lugs and could cause issues when using a strap. Hope this helps anyone looking for an L-Bracket for their SL2. On a side note, I'm not a big fan of the RRS way of designing brackets for the SL range. They make an already large camera even larger and are also heavier than the other options. However, once they come out with their SL2 version I´ll probably have a second look... I also have some more pictures with different perspectives, let me know if you're interested (didn't want to clutter the thread too much)😀

ich habe vor einiger Zeit eine fantastisch erhaltenen SL2 in Chromausführung kaufen können; im Paket mit einem 50 mm Summilux. Mit meinen beiden M Modellen ist bei 90 mm Schluß; also wird die SL2 mit langbrennweitige Objektiven eingesetzt, obwohl es da ganz reizvolle Weitwinkel gibt. Nun meine Frage: Die SL 2 benötigt Objektive mit zwei Steuerkurven (oder "Rutschen" wie ein User mal schrieb). Welche Konsequenzen hätte es, Objektive mit 3 Kurven einzusetzen oder gar die neueren R-Objektive, die keine Steuerkurven mehr hatten (wenn ich da richtig informiert bin). Dank Euch für Eure Antwort.

Hi all I've finally managed to invest into the Leica family with an SL2-S, which came with a 'M adapter T'. Does anyone know whether this is the same as the L adapter T, and will it let me use M lenses on the SL2-S in the same way? Any insight much appreciated, thanks very much

Hi there, I am attempting to repair the battery terminal for the light meter on my SL2, which corroded and snapped off some years ago. I have seen a repair video for the same issue on an SL model on YouTube and it certainly looks achievable: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXSjrAUj0EQ I am having trouble removing the bottom casing though. After removing the 2 screws and either end of the body, it's clear it is still fastened in the middle, however there is no drive hole to unscrew inside the tripod mount. It's possible that it has been stripped off if it's soft aluminium. I have attempted with a Robertson bits and Hex bits and there is nothing in there to grip - but I can also see that there is nothing to grip.... Is it different between the SL and SL2... or if it has been stripped, is there any other way to remove the screw/cover? Thanks in advance...

Natural and Classic 709/2020 LUTs Homepage.7z

Processed in Lightroom, Landscape or Color profiles, I find that boring grey skies are apt to carry a blue tinge (that becomes stronger as you approach blue hour). It certainly makes the pics look more lively, but it’s not what I remember seeing. If I set the sky to be grey using the temperature setting, the rest of the picture looks too warm. Have others noticed such quirks? Is there a solution (that doesn’t involve repainting the scene)?

After shooting for a few minutes (or after a certain number of shots), the EVF displays a message that “burst shooting or recording in 4K is not available” (or something similar to that). Even though I am using a fresh battery, completely charged, the battery level quickly goes to the 50-75% range. I have the camera (SL2) set to shoot in high burst mode and I may get about 50 or so shots before this message is displayed. If you can only get 50 or so shots on high burst mode, this makes the battery/camera very limited if you need these high burst rates. Since I am new to Leica, I guess I have something set wrong. Any help is greatly appreciated.

As i am very busy at these strange times there a some moments i have to have a break. At one of these rare moments last sunday i went on a early morning trip to the harz mauntains, in order to be at the top the Brocken mountain at sunrise. It happened the way it had to.... some early morning light before sunrise... followed by a foggy cold morning at -6°C. At the top wind gusts aprox. 60 km/h. In conclusion: A perfect day. On the way back down the sun broke through and more hikers catched the moment. first lights #1

I'm planning a trip next year to Iceland. Mainly, I'll be shooting landscape and Northern lights Photos. I'll be taking a class and traveling with a small group of students and an instructor. I currently have an M10R and a 50 Summilux, 21 Super Elmar and a 35 Summilux. I will most likely take that as the backup since the weather can be cold and rainy. If it's nice out, I'll certainly use the M10R and especially the 21 for landscape shots. However, I am told by the instructor that I will need a weather proof body and lenses. I am planning on renting an SL2 (or maybe buying one, taking advantage of the deal with the free M adapter to use my M lenses) and renting a short, medium and longer focal length lens - 90-280, 24-70 f/2.8, etc for the beautiful landscape of Iceland - mountains, waterfalls, etc. However for the night time Northern Lights photos. I know that using a wide lens with a fast aperture is highly recommended. Since the SL2 is part of the L family, I was thinking Panasonic or Sigma for something wide and fast. First question - I've done a lot of research and and actually shot the Northern Lights when they came as far south as Michigan in 2004. I used a full frame Canon DSLR and the 16-35mm f/2.8, set it to ISO 200 with a 30 second exposure and got some pretty decent photos. However, I'd be curious what you have used in the past to capture the Northern Lights. What is the ideal L lens for shooting the Northern Lights in Iceland? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks! -Ted

In meinem fotographischen Einzugsgebiet liegt der Harz, und gestern versprach der Himmel zum wiederholten Male spannend zu werden. Anders als sonst hatte ich aber Zeit und auch die Chance noch einmal "auszurücken" (die Tour mit der Berliner Truppe um Hartmut aka @hartgraefkonnte ich im Juni ja leider nicht begleiten...) Gesagt getan, Sachen gepackt und im niedersächsischen Starkregen und Gewitter los ins Ilsetal. Als Ziel hatte ich mir in der Hoffnung von Nebelbänken den Ilse FELSEN überlegt, von wo man einen Bli ck über den bewaldeten Teil des Tales bis zum Brocken hat/ haben kann. Vom Parkplatz aus recht schnell nach links noch vor Erreichen der Ilse in den Wald war ich dann einigermaßen überrascht, dass die Wege gesperrt waren. Der Borkenkäfer und die Witterung/ Stürme haben eben doch deutlich mehr Spuren hinterlassen an den Bäumen als so manchem lieb ist. Entsprechend der doch eindeutig erhöhten Gefahr auf diesem Weg (im Hang liegen ungesicherte Stämme) hab ich mir angesichts des Wetters einen anderen (längeren) Weg gesucht um Zum Ziel zu kommen. Ich hab auch da ne ordentliche Packung Regen abbekommen, aber das ist sicher besser als Baumstämme....

Some impressions from today, as i was asked to take some pics with the new Panasonic 24/50/85 lenses (all of them at min f1.8). I am testing not like others by taking pics from a wall, the lenses have to proof themselves by working with them. Of course the pics are postprcessed as all of my pics but in short conclusion you will get good working lenses with good results. There might be some differences in pixlpeeping in high end prints (and on screen at 100% view) but this is not the normal view. In this setting from todays morning i went into the cathedral, unfortunately i did not realize the beginning of the church service and it was too late to leave the tomb of henry the Lion and his wife Mathilde when the bells started to ring.... 24mm:

Ich ärgere mich jedes mal darüber, dass ich beim Hineinzoomen in ein gerade geschossenes Foto immer irgendwo im Bild lande und nicht an der Stelle wo der Fokus zuvor beim Fotografieren festgelegt wurde. Was soll diese Sucherei? Wenn ich bei einem Porträt auf die Augen fokussiere, will ich bei der Bildkontrolle nicht irgendwo am Hals etc. landen, sondern genau auf den Augen. Bei anderen Marken wie z.B. Nikon klappt das immer! Ich habe vor Monaten schon einmal einen Verbesserungsvorschlag an Leica gesendet, der aber bisher nicht erhört wurde. Stört das niemanden von euch? Oder habe ich eine Funktion an meiner SL2 übersehen?

Hi, I shoot a lot of commercials.I bought sl2 this time.An incident occurred during the first commercial shoot using sl2.The picture came in well on the capturer one, and there was no problem taking it.Then, at some point, the camera went completely out of order.Touch screens are not available and power buttons are not available.If a stop occurs, the battery must be forcibly removed.And when we film again, things go well, and at some point, af stutters.It stops again.This phenomenon continued to occur on the set.Usage environment - macbook pro, capturer one, ether cable (usb C), sd card not usedI'll connect the link. I would appreciate it if you could check and tell me the cause.Laika only says it's an SD card problem even if there's no problem at all.There's no problem, so there's nothing I can do for you.It's so frustrating. https://youtu.be/A8ubSdv87nY SL2 All functions stopped.

Hey , I can't find an angle viewfinder for the SL2. How do you manage to make low or high angle picture without using your phone. Is there any DIY that you can recommend? And apart of this: is there a menu point to mirror the image of the camera? If so we could just use a mirror or something reflective as a mirror. And yes I know that you can take the picture and alter the framing. But sometimes its quit nice to see what you are doing. I am enjoying both methods but I would like to achieve the method with more control. Curious how you solve this challenge. kind regards Peter

Hi all, I've noticed there isn't a dedicated thread for editing L-Log footage, so I will begin one here. I realize that colouring and re-touching video is a very subjective field, but I wanted to see how others work within Leica's limited literature surrounding post-production in video. I've just updated my Atomos Ninja V to the latest firmware, which now allows for L-Log recording from leica (the past year with the SL2 was a little tedious working with both internally and externally recorded video footage). Now, with this update, BT2020 seems a lot nicer. I've just done my first video about this update here:

I was wondering if anyone has done side by side comparisons of the Sigma L mount 24-70 with the Leica Vario Elmarit 24-90. I find that I use my Sony a9 mostly as follows: 75% of the time I have the excellent 55mm Sony Zeiss 1.8 on it due to the best balance of size, weight, sharpness, bokeh, every day use 20% of the time I use the excellent zeiss batis 25mm 1.8 5% of the time I think about using my 70-200 f4 Sony or my excellent 24-70 Sony G master f2.8...and then decide I don't really want to carry it around, so I take the 25mm and the 55mm instead and alternate use. This can be a pain when I need to swap them back and forth but is lighter option and sometimes I just take one. So I am trying to figure out where I would start with a Leica SL2 system, as I only have a Leica M 35 summicron presently: Go with a 24-90mm Leica Vario Elmarit (costly and heavy) and use my M lens when I want a lighter setup to walk around with. Go with a Sigma 24-70 for general use, and then put money towards an autofocus Leica 35mm or Leica 50mm. Neither of these setups will address the 70-200 lens that would be missing, but I rarely used it, so I can do without I think and either pick up a used 135mm manual focus lens, or maybe a 100mm macro lens and crop it. At any rate, would be nice to get some feedback on the image quality of the Sigma 24-70 as that might help me decide. I am continually trying to choose between the SL2, SL2s and M10r and it doesn't seem to make sense to get the SL2 system without at least one autofocus general purpose lens. Otherwise, might as well just go with the M! Thanks, all!

Hello there, I am looking to get some advice coming from a Sony A9, which I got not because I shoot action, but because I was drawn to the "no blackout" EVF. I have used and owned many Leicas in my day, including the MP film camera, the M9, M240, Q, and M10, and am currently "between" Leicas. I am wondering whether anyone can guide me with my next decision: Whether to sell the Sony A9 and the glass I own for it in order to get a Leica SL2 or SL2S, or to get the Leica M10R. I absolutely love the experience of looking through a glass viewfinder at the real world and I like to take a minimalist approach to what gear I carry. I never "spray and pray," even with the A9, at most I focus once, recompose and shoot. I don't always hit focus with the M cameras, and sometimes I get a little stressed by the fact that you cannot see the exact framing of the image, and many of the lenses (such as the Summicron 35mm M I still own) do not focus on close subjects. So I guess what I am saying is that I am struggling with the pros and cons of both systems. The M system is near and dear to me, but I don't always get focus or framing when under a little pressure. The SL2S intrigues me as a good way to replace my Sony A9, sacrificing Sony's autofocus madness, button layout, and pages of frustrating menus, for a more sublime Leica experience, but seems a little heavy. The reason I was thinking of SL2S versus M10R is that the resolution of the M10R would allow me to "fix" the framing if I don't get it perfect, where on the SL2S I would be seeing exactly what I would get before I shoot, so the extra resolution would probably not be needed as much. Of course I would love to own both someday Note: I am not a professional photographer. I like shooting street, landscape and sometimes non-studio portraits. I like Leica because of the simplicity of use, the connection to film days, and because of the dedicated dials for ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture. If the M10D had a film advance lever that worked, I probably would have pulled the plug on that baby! And if the Sony A9 had dedicated dials (and less of them) and about 10 pages less of options (animal eye auto focus - wow!) I would consider keeping it. Thanks for any advice you may have!

Hi Photogs Can anyone explain how the SL2 processes it’s multi shot images when set in multi-shot mode? I understand that the camera takes 8 different shots by moving the sensor 0.5 pixels each time. My question is does the camera merge these 8 images to produce the final 187 MB image or does it interpolate between each of the 8 images to produce the final result ? A couple of my multi-shots look like they have had mild HDR treatment which is not to everyone’s taste. Is that the intention or consequence of multi-shot images? Any advice welcome ! Thanks David