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Showing results for tags 'shutter speed'.
Found 5 results
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I'm on the hunt for a camera to compliment my M7 for travel photography. Ideally, I'd like an M mount body with a shutter speed of 1/2000 or higher. On a recent trip to Cuba, I took with me my M7 body, 50mm Summicron & 35mm Summicron. To compliment that setup, I also brought along a Contax G2 and ended up using it quite a bit because of its fast shutter speed (1/6000) and ability to shoot "wide open" during the day. The problem, however, is having to switch between two different systems. I've since sold the G2 but now own a 35mm Summilux Pre-ASPH and would love to shoot that beautiful lens wide open during the day. I know that I could just buy an ND filter but maybe there is an M mount body out there that would suit my needs? Currently, the Konica Hexar RF seems to be the practical choice. Any other cameras out there that I should consider?
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Hello, I just bought an M7 and I cannot trigger in aperture priority mode. No problem with other shutter speed. I tried with different light and.. nothing. Also I don't see the shutter speed in the viewfinder. When I set in On, I see my ASA (400) during 2 sec and after there is nothing. I changed the batteries but it didn't change anything. As anyone had the same problem ? Thanks for you answer :-) -
For some reason, the shutter speed shown on the LCD screen is 1 or 2 stops slower than the shutter speed that I have selected. For example, at this second I have 1/15 on the knob, but my LCD screen says 1/15. I now just shut the camera off, and turned it back on - the shutter speed on the knob is now matching up to the LCD screen. Fast forward after taking 3 shots, and have switched my shutter speed to 1/125, but 1/60 is being display. As confirmation, after the photo is taken, the shutter speed that was taken into account is the one that is on the LCD screen. Help?
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I am a relatively new X1 owner, and a relatively ignorant photographer. That unfamiliar bit of modesty being said: My understanding of traditional photography lore is that 1/60 is the slowest speed that will prevent camera shake. (I know the there is a more complex formula that applies, 1/lens length or something, but nothing slower than 1/60 is the shorthand version I have always used.) And yet when I put the shutter speed in auto mode, the X1 will let the shutter go as slow as 1/30. I'd set the camera so it wouldn't go slower than 1/60, but the menu doesn't have that option. I ask because I believe that I am suffering from camera shake. If I take multiple shots of a single subject, some will be just a bit fuzzy. Just a bit--on the edge of imperceptible. But still fuzzy to the critical eye. The only explanation that occurs to me is that I'm not holding the camera steady when I take the fuzzy shots. I would switch to 1/60, but the X1 won't let me, in violation of longstanding knowledge. What's the deal? I should add that, notwithstanding this problem, I love the X1. Last summer, I was hanging around the camera store, bugging them about the X100 arrival date. Just as a goof, I asked to see the X1. As soon as I picked it up, I realized that I had asked a very expensive question, and that there was no way I was going to walk out of the store without it. For years, I've been looking for the digital equivalent of the T2. The X1 is the first real contender.
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Folks, I've just got me a used M8. When I look through the view finder, I noticed that the shutter speed display LED is very blurry. But at the same time, the focusing RF patch in the center of the VF is clear and sharp. I tried to google online but don't get the information I need. Please advise why this happens and how to adjust it? P.S. since the RFpatch and focusing looks clear, I assume the eye piece of the VF should be fine, am I right? (I do have a -1.0 and a -1.5 correction lenses if it's necessary to replace the eye piece.) update: I did put on the -1.0 and -1.5 correction lenses to try but didn't see any improvement of the shutter speed readout. I also put on a pair of glass and that didn't help either... update2: I also brought the m8 to a local camera store. A guy look though the VF and also confirmed that the m8/9 shouldn't look that blurry ======= I doubt that is something I can fix by myself (I didn't have such experience nor the specific tool to dissemble Leica before). How much this might cost? Any idea? Thanks.
