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Showing results for tags 'sharpening'.
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I used the SL2 in multiexposure (189Mpx) mode with a Summicron 50mm SL at f2.2. The edges do get softer (not entirely clear that this is the lens or atmosphere or the way that the SL2 takes / stitches such images). Topaz Sharpen AI does a reasonable job at cleaning up the deficiencies. (I have probably slightly overcooked it, but may well have started with the auto settings.). [No interest to declare; paid for the product (v 3.3.5).]
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Hi, has anyone got any suggestions what sharpening settings work well for the Leica Q in Capture One? Anything that I could save as default for a fast workflow? Thank you...
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Hi, I have read/been told conflicting things re sharpening. Some say its better to do before commencing adjustments in Lightroom while other say it should be done as the last step once everything is done. Perhaps its a combination of both. Can anyone set me straight on this? Thanks kindly.
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Here are some crops from the jpeg versions of pix I shot in Salt Lake. No post-processing except for cropping. I note that Leica has vastly improved the sharpening algorithms. None of the video-like halos that appeared in the M8 unless in-camera sharpening was turned completely off. I also note that ISO 2500 is extremely noise-free (for the ISO) Shot of the M8 on pedestal: ISO 2500, mixed tungsten spotlight overhead and window daylight, 135 TE @ f/4 and 1/60th (so a touch of camera shake), "normal" sharpening setting. Detail of the "Leica" shirt is from the same shot, in DNG form, that I posted on my original report. 21 Elmarit, ISO 1600, f/2.8, "soft" sharpening setting (according EXIF - I don't know which menu setting that corresponds to precisely). Anyway, for your consideration...
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When you have been using LR2 and the older Camera RAW tool, you'll probably be used to doing your sharpening rather in the high numbers. Some tutorials tell you to go way over 100% and manage the halos and edges with the other sliders. Please note that LR3 and Camera RAW 6.3 have a new sharpening engine/logic and you should immediately drop the numbers! For a landscape I now use a sharpening of something like 50%. Here's an example: look at what happens with the trees in the background and look at the sky!. I left the other sliders the same, to show you the effect to the max. Of course the photo need some more thought with regard to the reeds in the foreground, etc. But keep in mind that you're looking at a screen capture with low res. first photo: 110% with curly sharpening artifacts in the trees second photo: 50% without curly artifacts So, slow down and don't overdo your sharpening.
