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Hi! Friends, who has repaired his "S2-P" with serious problems in the service in Germany ? Tell me, what was the price of repair? As far as I know my problem can not be solved by multiple battery charging or leaving the camera without battery for many days. My problem is 99% on the motherboard, which will most likely be replaced completely at the service. I have asked Leica several times this question of the approximate cost to replace the motherboard, but they won't tell me an approximate price. It's hard for me to send them the camera now, but I might be able to do so if I know the approximate cost of the most expensive camera repair (replacing the entire motherboard). Do you think it will be more than 1000 euros, right? If it's more expensive, I might be better off selling the camera for parts. PS The camera stopped working completely, two screens and all controls are completely disabled. However, the shutter button, exposure metering in the viewfinder and even autofocus works, but it doesn't record photos to the memory card. A warning signal flashes in the lower left corner of the viewfinder. The battery trick doesn't help, also attaching the grip (battery pack) doesn't help. Other memory cards, batteries, lenses do not help. The camera has not been exposed to rain. Careful use. A familiar repairman says that there is probably no voltage on the motherboard, that Leica will probably replace the entire motherboard. Thank you all for any possible answers.

I have noticed in the two more recent outings with my M240 that i have a lot of dust on my sensor. The attached image is from the most recent outing to see the airshow. The circles are the spot removal I had to do to fix all the dust. As you can see it is substantial. Note that I was stopped down to F22 on a 90mm lens to get the depth needed for the air crafts and people to be in focus. So the dust was more apparent in the image. I have cleaned the sensor with the blower multiple times. I have cleaned the sensor with swab and solution once between the outings. I switch lenses often enough for dust to get in, I expect it to happen. My problem is that after cleaning the sensor so thoroughly I should not have this much dust. It appears that using the blower provides minimal help and the swab basically nothing. Has anyone experienced such persistent dust? Could this be some sort of corrosion on the sensor? I am debating sending it in for a repair and service to fix the issue. Has anyone used this service before and has an idea of cost, procedure, and effectiveness in getting a clean sensor back?

　Hello from Japan. I bought a used Leica M7 because it was a great price with two lenses.　I love the features and proportions of the M7. Most of all, I love the fact that the camera was born in 2002 (I have a personal attachment to 2002). Of course, there is the issue of the repairability of the electronic shutter. 　Now, my Leica M7 that I bought is a bit scratched up. It's used, and it's an early model of the M7. But since it is my first Leica and I plan to travel with it until it is beyond repair, I want to freshen it up and make it beautiful. Initially, I was looking for a repainter, but I couldn't find one who repainted the M7, at least not in Japan. In the course of my research, I found out that Leica offers Redesign Options, and on Reddit I found a guy who had replaced the top cover of his M7. 　Is it possible to revive the Leica M7 with Leica's Redesign Options? Also, has anyone done that? I would like to do an overhaul on my Leica and replace the exterior parts at the same time. There is not much information about that. If the replacement of the exterior is not possible, I would like to engrave the print on the top cover. Thanks in advance. P.S. I heard that Leica Japan is a bit unresponsive on that front, so I'm asking here.

My Tele Elmarit M 90 shows these marks when inspecting under a certain angle. It looks like dried water behind the front-element of the lens. It does not show in photos but still it concerns me. Is this serviceable? Have you ever seen something like this?

Bought a new (used) M9 to replace my old one that packed it in, and it came with a scratch on the red dot, so I removed it to try and repaint it... then I turned to fire to help remove the old paint and ended up preferring the raw tempered look, so think I will stick with it for now! What you think... seen anyone do this before?! I'm sure it will divide opinions!

Hi there. Today while taking photos with my MP I realized some kind of liquid had dropped on the back of my camera. It had been dried before I noticed it. As a reflex I immediately clean the thing but the same stuff had also snuck on to the light seal cloth that covers the parameters of the back door. How can I clean the residue on the light seal? Or should I bother? I am afraid of the possibility of the strange liquid damaging the light seal.

Hello Friends, I recently noticed that my M4 has a slight delay while I am focusing from infinity to 0.8. The patch would not align, it's quick but i can tell there like a millisecond lag. I found out that the rangefinder roller is a little stiff when a push it back. Is this something i can fix myself or do i need an expert to CLA my camera? I bought it 6 months ago. No idea when it was last CLA'd but it is in excellent condition. Thank you in advanced!!!

I had my Leica Q sent for servicing, and now the proximity sensor for EVF does not work correctly. I have the display settings EVF - LCD set to "Auto", which should switch to EVF mode when I put the camera closer to my face, and switch to LCD when I move it away. However, the camera gets permanently "stuck" in the EVF mode no matter the position. The only way to switch it to LCD is to set the display settings to "LCD". I find it hard to believe that this wouldn't be noticed by the QA of Leica servicing (it was 560€ after all...) I reached out to them for clarification but it might take a while before I get an answer. What's worse is, that I had the camera serviced end of December, but then I went for traveling for 3 months (without the camera), and only noticed the issue now that I have an upcoming shoot this weekend, and I wanted to make sure everything is set up properly. Anyone had a similar issue by any chance? I only found references to this happening if you have a protector screen on the EVF, which I don't. I do have a screen protector on the LCD.

So over the weekend a few drops of red bull were spilled on the top plate of my M2 (don't ask) - mainly on the right hand side, so the frame counter and shutter button were hit. The day after I noticed that the aforementioned parts felt sticky - the shutter button particularly was returning to it's normal position more slowy after being depressed. I didn't have any isopropyl alcohol on hand since it seems to be impossible to find in the UK, so I put a drop or two of denatured ethyl alcohol (surgical spirit, as it is called here) into the shutter button, then began to depress it repeatedly. This process was repeated 2 or 3 times. It seems to have worked very well and the camera feels normal again, but I am scared that ethyl alcohol might have adverse effects on the camera. From what I've read, isopropyl alcohol (if anything) is what should be used, and I've even read that ethanol can react with brass to cause oxidation. Is this something that I should be worried about, or am I overreacting?

After M6 TTL was proclaimed non-repairable by Leica Camera 2 years ago due to the lack of main circuit boards the same has now apparetly happened to M6 Classic, as per DAG website. The folks at RF forum wrote about the repair of the board not being a simple one and joked that after a possible malfunction your M6 Classic will be demoted to a M4-P free of charge.

Hello friends, I seem to have an issue that is not entirely rare. The cloth focal plane shutter curtain seems to stutter, or even bounce. I have searched this issue prior, and I guess "bounce" does seem to be the syntax for this certain phenomenon. I have included a clip of the shutter at 1/500 from a slow-mo video I attempted to take on my phone. I also scrubbed the video and took a screenshot of every frame that contained the movement of the shutter in the video. And to my surprise, by looking at the past two frames, the shutter does indeed appear to "bounce". The shutter seems to travel the full distance, with the second to last frame capturing the almost fully relaxed shutter. But then the last frame shows a larger gap of light appearing again. Not ideal. I noticed on a couple photos I took, a bar of overexposure on the right side of the frame. Since this issue is well documented and the solution known (CLA baby) my purpose for cluttering this forum with a much too common ailment was to possibly learn what could cause this? To make this already long winded post windier; I purchased the camera from Shueido Camera back in March 2022. It was supposedly CLA'd before sending out. The camera did come in, visually, absolute pristine condition. The first test roll I shot didn't seem to have any issues. But then I went on a 10 day trip to Iceland. Almost none of the photos I took in Iceland had the bar, but with overcast, cloudy days, I was most likely shooting at 1/250 and lower. (From what I understand this issue comes alight mostly at 1/500 & 1/1000 (increased tension for high speeds?)) Upon returning to the land of America, I shot some random pictures around me to finish off my last roll from Iceland. Almost all the photos exhibit the nefarious white bar of sadness on the right edge of the photo. Now, this is Florida, during midday, in summer, so one could assume almost every photo I took was at 1/500 and 1/1000. Could the Leica's foray into the land of Fire and Ice been too much for it's old bones? Could the 10 days of constant cold (I camped for the duration of my stay, so my new buddy did not spend much time in a comfy, first class, heated environment) affected this old tools mechanism, summoning the frosty ghost of over exposure? Thanks for even reading this phone typed, mental diarrhea. I know I have to get it CLA'd, but it is just simply a bummer that a camera would need a second CLA in one year. I'm hoping to figure out how this may have been caused so I may avoid bringing this problem back in the future. MOV_HFR_120F_20220723012348~3.mp4

Hi guys! A few months ago I booked the "Leica Weekend at Leitz-Park" and last weekend I spent there for 2 days (from Friday to Saturday), dropped off my M6 Classic at the Leica Customer Care to fix the peeling off leatherette and asked the Leica staff member there about the M6 Classic repairability and MP black chrome. I wrote my experience on reddit in a 2-parter post attached with photos: Part 1: 2 days at Leitz-Park (more in the comments section) Part 2: Continuation: 2 days at Leitz-Park + M6 Classic & MP black chrome info from Leica staff (more in the comments) Here the excerpt for the relevant part in the part 2 write-up:

Hi, I am trying to replace the film rewind crank, and I cannot loosen the screw underneath the flip-out handle. Is there a trick to doing it? Or is it more complicated than just removing the screw? Thank you.

The discontinued Leica Motor M 14408, a very nice little grinding machine with a low torque that does not knock out one of your fillings each time you hit the shutter button of your analog M (unlike the good old bulky 14214 winder pressed against the face), has a well documented weak spot between the grip and the winder housing. The grip handle has been known to come loose and cause your camera to drop. It is easily noticed — the grip handle starts wobbling and eventually disengages. Mine came slightly wobbly from the dealer (he priced it accordingly). As there is no repair manual circulating on the mighty web I have opened up the winder and found the grip handle being held in place by two screws. If you tighten these two screws you are back on track with a firm grip. If the problem persists you can use a little blue loctite on those two screws — they unfortunately represent the weakest link of the entire Portuguese assembly. I used my Phillips screwdriver heads size 000 (for body screws) and 0 (for locking mechanism/spool holder screws).

So I recently got (for lack of a better word) scammed into buying a Summaron 35 2.8 with a cracked goggle (let's not get into it). The lens functions okay, but I'm wondering what my chances are of replacing the glass on the front of the goggle and what this might cost. The lens is over 60 years old, so I'm not very hopeful but wanted to check anyway. Thanks in advance for any responses.

Hi all, I am still quite new to repairing cameras and lenses but so far I have a pretty good track record for fixing them. I have mainly repaired Canon rangefinders and some Canon SLRs. I recently picked up a R4 which has the problem of a possible jammed shutter. Basically the shutter does not fire when the shutter button is depressed. I have checked both magnets under the battery compartment and could not see any dirt that was causing a weak connection. I have also compared the cams and gears to a Minolta XD11/7 as I have read on this forum that they have the same internals. I have only worked with cloth shutters in SLRs and not the later bladed shutter curtains. To me this looks like it might be jammed but I am not 100% sure as an image of the shutter in the Minolta service manual looks similar, unfortunately this detail in the scanned document is to contrasty to tell. I am also wondering if there is a way to trip the shutter without using the shutter button? If you could help me out I would be very grateful! Many Thanks, Jack

Hi everyone, I'm currently working on a project to once and for all fix the analogue Leica CL's broken take up spool problem, by 3D printing them. I've ran a roll through mine with version 2 of the spool and it works pretty good, but i'm working on version 3 which should be better still - I got the dimensions slightly wrong on this one - it's too short. How many of you CL owners would be interested in buying such an item? They'd cost around £20 and be sold through eBay all said and done, and I'd make a video showing how to take apart the CL and install them, as well as reassembly - International shipping would happen too through the eBay GSP as I'm UK based. The attached photo is version 2 and not by any means the final version as this is still in very early development, but the quality of the ones that go on sale will be much higher. This one was printed by a friend of mine, but I'm soon going to acquire my own printer and make them much better. I know also that this doesn't look anything like the original, but when I copied the original part dimension for dimension, curve by curve, it didn't work and suffered the same problems as the original.. immediately. Thus I simplified it and made it more "3D Printer friendly." Thanks Tom

OK. I am starting from that point where we all start: total ignorance. I receive my M8.2 today when FedEx delivers the little honey. I would not normally run an eBay camera by a repair facility to check it but this is special. And the seller has a 30 return window so I want a skilled tech to 1) look it over and evaluate its condition and, 2) do a CLA if needed. I will bring it up with the new lens so that the tech can check how well the lens gets along with the rangefinder. I have read on this board and in this sub-forum that two esteemed Leica techs will not open an M8/M8.2 because of "grounding issues." I have asked Wetzlar and finally Leica NJ about this. They have danced all around this and are as good at equivocation as any politician or time-share salesman. The best I could get out of them was that taking the camera to a non-Leica facility may void my warranty. They have not said that any other tech is unable to inspect, evaluate or repair the M8/M8.2. So I am going to be a guinea pig on this. I will take some pics when the camera arrives, of course, just to make sure it works. Tomorrow I will drive up to PDX and drop it off with a repair facility I have had do work in the past. They did the job right in the past on a Pentax digital. I will see what happens. I will know it worked before I brought it up. I will have the digital proof. I will also see what these fellows can do. And the tech left me a message to the effect that the M9 was pretty much an M8/M8.2 inside but with a bigger sensor. So we know he has opened up a few of them. As they used to say on TV, "Tape at Eleven."

So I was ripping around in an off-road vehicle in Sedona and taking some beautiful landscape photos with my Q2. All of that off-roading caused the Q2 to get covered in some fine dust and sand and while the camera worked fine, you could feel the dust inside the aperture ring and dial—it was just a little grindy and you could tell it needed to be cleaned, but otherwise it was perfect. The camera got shipped off to Leica in New Jersey and 2 weeks later they came back with a repair starting point of $2,600! Apparently, they didn't open up the camera or anything and just do a general look at things and an assumption prior to the true estimate. My shop told me they wrote very basic notes - "Damages by sand - Need to adjust auto focus, replace parts, check, adjust, clean" - it seemed very templated. They did not say what parts needed to be replaced (according to my shop.) They did say shipping was included. Just wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions. Maybe the actual repair will cost less? Should I push back on them? Do I have other options outside of Leica? Thank you!

Hi! I have a mint Leica R7, worked always without any issue but today I noticed when attaching the Summicron the "A" (full and centered) modes were no displaying when changing the modes (it displayed "m" and even the controls were manual), the same for the program mode (where it said time priority"). is it possible that maybe the metal contact of the selector needs a clean or the electronic has a big problem? or what can it be? (the lens I'm using is a "R only" lens, I had the R4s2 before and it functioned in all modes with no problems) Thanks

Hi, Found this lovely forum while searching for info on a Leica R4 body described as having a "small problem". It belongs to a friend who gave me the option of buying it off him cheap, in its existing state, and trying to fix it and re-sell to a collector. I have been reading up on this and trying a few things and had a couple observations and questions that I am hoping the experts in this forum can help me with. 1) When I received it, I discovered that the shutter was not just firing with a delay, it was stuck and unusable. The film advance lever was stuck as well, indicating that the shutter probably froze midway through its cycle. The mirror was down, but the DOF preview lever was "loose". 2) The battery LED would light, but there was no activity in the viewfinder, meaning no leds or anything at all. The camera seemed dead. New batteries did not change anything. 3) After a fair bit of research, I found a thread (unsure where) that suggested "smacking" the camera bottom on a bed or similar soft surface. Somewhat frustrated, I did this, and it actually worked. The shutter finished its cycle and the film advance lever was working again, AND the viewfinder leds worked. I checked the meter and it seems fine too. 4) Advance the lever (no film), press the shutter, and same exact problem. But over many tests, I discovered that in B and 100, both mechanical modes, it would sometimes fire with a big delay, and other times get completely stuck. Smacking always releases the shutter. 5) Based on many threads in this forum, I believe this problem is typically related to dirty magnetic dampers. However, I find mixed information on how to reach the magnets. There was one thread that suggested it can be reached from the bottom plate and is easy, while another suggested it is behind the dof preview lever and complicated to reach, requiring some degree of disassembly. Unfortunately, I did not find information on WHAT disassembly is required. 6) In the meantime, I have also found that in all of the electronic modes (manual operation, but shutter speed electronic), the shutter button actually never fully depresses and therefore the shutter never fires at all. It feels like a half-press only in the electronic modes. In the mechanical mode, I can clearly see and feel the shutter go much deeper and actuate something. So my questions: 1) Is the shutter button behaving normally? Is there something else I am missing, as to why the shutter button won't fully depress in electronic mode, but works in mechanical mode? 2) If its the dampers, do I go from the bottom or the top? In any case, how do I get the top plate off and get any sort of serious disassembly done on this camera? I see one screw in the back, by the eye-piece control dial, and know that the top most screw on the mount holds the top plate down. But are those the only two screws? What else do I need to remove to get the top plate off? I am guessing the film rewind lever (on the left side, over the ISO dial) needs to come off, and the entire ISO dial mechanism probably needs to be lifted off too. What about on the right side, how do I get under the film advance lever and the shutter control? 3) Given the fact that the meter seems to work properly, I am guessing the electronics on this sample are okay (its a 156xxxx serial number). But just to be sure, if the electronics are toast, how do I know this? Any help/advice is appreciated, including an opinion on what price its worth buying at and then trying to fix it so I can keep it for myself, OR sell in working condition to a collector. A warning that it might be more valuable sold off to a collector in present condition than executing a botched repair and destroying its value completely is also taken in the right spirit. Thanks, Karthik PS - I literally went thru every single page of the English forum looking for answers. Now after posting, I see threads related to this in the German forum! Is there a way for me to search on the other language forums? Any pointers appreciated, but please understand that I did a pretty comprehensive search and processed what information I already found before making this thread

Hi all, I recently got a Leica Q2 and the a few new noises have popped up. For one the aperture has started making an audible sound when engaging after half depressing the shutter button. It’s sort of like a light scrape that wasn’t there before. Second, the shutter is about twice as loud as it used to be. Is this something worth sending in for inspection? I have an important trip coming up in 2 months and wonder if I should wait until after to send it in. The camera was originally purchased in March. Best, Max

My Leica D-Lux 3 that displays (1) a purple color shift for white colors in bright light; and (2) a photos show a green or yellow tint in low light. I have looked over the presets and defaults. I cannot find a switch that improves the display. I believe that the exposure sensor is damaged or malfunctioning. Otherwise, the camera is in good shape cosmetically and according to a review of the presets and default, working correctly. A used replacement on Ebay is about $150 to $200. My questions are: -1- Can I send my camera to the Leica repair for a new sensor for that amount of money? I know about the submission form that requires a maximum repair cost to be stated. -2- Is a Leica repaired camera totally checked out and then repaired so as to insure long lasting functioning? -3- Is it better to purchase another non-leica camera for $150 to $200 with improved specifications like increased megapixels? Thanks for reviewing my questions, Inkbox PS I encountered an error when uploading files; although I deleted the upload files, I cannot upload replacements. I have used up all of my storage space and cannot locate a delete button in My Attachments.

SOS HELP!!! I dropped my Leica M4 and according to the NYC Camera Doctor repair team, the prism that creates the ghost image in the rangefinder is dislocated and needs to be replaced. They suggested that I send it directly into Leica for repairs, becuase the rangefinder is a complicated mechanism they wern't equipt to fix. They also let me know that Leica, located in New Jersey, dosen't do specific repairs and will want to do a full tune-up. Money is a concern, and I'm not prepared to pay $1000-ish if I can at all avoid it. I just want my range-finder to be functional. Has anyone had rangefinder work done, espeically on an M4? Would you advise having this work done by Leica or an outside repair person, such as DAG? Any experience or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. E

Hi all, I'm a new Leica owner. Got an R6 off a local photographer who let me use it for a few weeks before purchase. Worked fine; price was right, so I paid him for it. I have put through maybe 5-6 rolls through it successfully over the course of my testing period and then shortly after purchase. Tried loading a fresh roll of film the other day. Put the leader in the spool, pressed the shutter button, but the mirror is not moving after I press on the button. The shutter button seems to press down fine, however. Since the mirror is not moving after I hit the shutter, I am not able to wind forward the film. I have tried: moving all parts individually: the mirror, film spool, winder, shutter, film release/double exposure button all move the way that they should. There are no snags or tension. The mirror in particular moves up and down smoothly and doesn't seem out of alignment. The winder and spool do not seem to be loose or have tension; they feel like they move fine. firing the camera with the back open/closed on different shutter speeds tried pressing shutter button/winding the lever at the same time, tried pressing the rewind button and winding the lever at the same time. Since the moving parts seem to be ok, it leads me to think maybe something needs an oiling? Or maybe a spring rusted or got stretched? Or something got unattached? I want to open the camera up and try and see what's going on when I fire the shutter. However I wanted to come here for some advice guidance first. There just doesn't seem to be much in the way of R6 troubleshooting online. One thing to add: I notice while switching between shutter speeds I do hear a mechanical buzz. Doesn't seem to be on every change of the shutter however. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks!