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  1. Hi I have recently bought two Leica M6 cameras with various problems, and are wondering which one to keep. The best looking one is a Wetzlar M6 and has the following problems: - The rangefinder patch flares significantly more than the other M6. This seems to be caused by haze on the inside of the rangefinder window. My leica CL has less flare than both. - After the shutter trips, I am able to see a little bit of the seam on the left hand side of the shutter looking inside of the camera from behind. It is somewhat visible when looking straight on and compared to the other M6 it is a bit more visible in general. Might be a problem according to https://www.cameraquest.com/leicamchecklist.htm -Winding the shutter also makes a rubbing sound which the other M6 does not. - The other M6 also has smoother winding lever and more dampened shutter button than the Wetzlar M6. The other M6 is a big logo version made in the Sloms factory - The light meter on this one is sometimes off by more than 4 stops, even with a new battery. Other times it can be correct, but the arrows don't light up like the Wetzlar M6. I am never able to get the two arrows to light up evenly. One of the arrows is always stronger than the other. This means that the light meter goes from for example totally overexposed (only one arrow) -> a bit overexposed( one arrow brighter than the other) -> a bit underexposed (the other arrow brighter than the other) -> Totally underexposed (only one arrow). According to the manual I am missing the double arrows correct exposure light. - The white circle on the wound shutter curtain is also a bit faded and not evenly white from right to left, compared to the Wetzlar M6. - The shutter button on the big logo M6 is also a bit sticky after pressing or half pressing the shutter, making the light meter stay on indefinitely. - The 2nd shutter curtain on the big logo M6 also starts to creep in a little bit before the Wetzlar M6 when using the 1 second shutter speed. I hope you can help me decide. If both needs repair or CLA which will be the simplest and least expensive to repair? Thank you for taking the time to read through all this.
  2. Hello, actually on a trip in London , m’y m10 rangefinder suddenly stop coupling with my lenses. in fact, the little wheel wich get contact with the lens stays blocked on the infini. If I put it in thé right direction I can feel itsabnormaly hard to move. what happened ? CAN Ifix it by myself -? Is there a place in London where it could be fixed ? thank you for your help
  3. Hello everybody, this is my first post and I would like to extend a friendly hello to all of you and also to thank you for your time! This thread is not about finding the right screws for adjusting the rangefinder, but rather about one of them not wanting to move. The infinity adjustment (horizontal plane) seems to be a tiny bit out of alignment with my M5, and although it probably will not have a significant effect, it still nags me. One factor might be that the brass barrel of the lens I commonly use appears to be quite worn, so that when "freshly" attaching the lens, everything seems to be in order but never goes back to true inifity after the lens is focused to a closer distance and back to infinity, if this makes sense. Anyway, the screw inside the roller at the end of the rangefinder arm inside the lens mount does not move. I have tried several straight and angled screwdrivers, even filed one down for better fit, but still: it won't budge. I am afraid of stripping the head of the screw/damaging the arm and wonder: can or should the eccentric screw at the end of the rangefinder arm be lubricated in any way? Or will this result in unwanted movement/reoccuring maladjustment of the screw? When looking straight at the rangefinder arm from the front, there seems to be a small opening in the arm through which I can see the screw, which is why I'm wondering if it's meant to be used for lubrication purposes. What confuses me most though, is that my camera technician has adjusted the rangefinder several times already, and will most probably also have used this screw (although there seem to be other ways after taking the top plate off). Maybe I should ask him if he applied any kind of bonding agent to keep it in place. Although I'd wonder where he should have put it, since it inevitably would come into contact with the roller, inhibiting it from moving freely. If all of this is too confusing, I can add some pictures later for clarification. Thank all of you for your time and have a nice day!
  4. Hi everyone! I know that there are already discussions on this subject and I followed them to do the vertical alignment procedure on my m9, but I saw that nobody had my problems, so I ask you some advice, maybe someone has had my same experience and can help me. This is what I did: I removed the red Leica dot, I dropped a drop of acetone on the adjustment mechanism of the vertical alignment and after a while I inserted the special tool into the hole trying to pivot and move the mechanism. I have not seen any drops of glue on the mechanism or anything that looks like glue. However, I noticed that the instrument was not gripped at any point and therefore, rotating the instrument, the vertical alignment mechanism did not seem to move in any direction. After some time applying more force I noticed a great vertical misalignment. Trying to recover, I could not move the patch anymore. I ask you if it ever happened to you or if I did something wrong. thank you Marco
  5. SOS HELP!!! I dropped my Leica M4 and according to the NYC Camera Doctor repair team, the prism that creates the ghost image in the rangefinder is dislocated and needs to be replaced. They suggested that I send it directly into Leica for repairs, becuase the rangefinder is a complicated mechanism they wern't equipt to fix. They also let me know that Leica, located in New Jersey, dosen't do specific repairs and will want to do a full tune-up. Money is a concern, and I'm not prepared to pay $1000-ish if I can at all avoid it. I just want my range-finder to be functional. Has anyone had rangefinder work done, espeically on an M4? Would you advise having this work done by Leica or an outside repair person, such as DAG? Any experience or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. E
  6. Hello guys, I found that my lecia m4 RF alignment need to adjust. However, when I want to screw the biggest bolt in the mount, I found that I can't screw it. It totally fixed. I google a lot of article, but I don't find anyone else has same problem like me. AS a result I come here to ask you guys; is there anyone had same problem like me?8
  7. I'm curious about the reported improvements in the M10 rangefinder. Twice in the past decade I've returned from overseas trips only to find that my rangefinder went out of alignment during the trip, resulting in many out of focus images. One trip was with M8, the other with M 240. I did not have the EVF on the second trip, and I have not yet learned how to adjust the rangefinder. So, my question is this: is the rangefinder on the M10 more "stable," for lack of a better word, than previous rangefinders? Otherwise I am content with my 240. I have large hands so the size/weight does not bother me. Lack of video is not important. If I upgraded it probably would be for the rangefinder, if it truly is that much better. I also live 1000 miles from the nearest dealer so I can't go down and check it out for myself very easily.
  8. I've updated my Leica M article series with a new page 43 on how to focus the Rangefinder / Meßsucher The Decisive Moment - Focusing the Leica M - Part 2/5 This is the 2nd of 5 new pages on focusing a Leica M. The first page is also online here: The Minority Report - Focusing the Leica M - Part 1/5 Feel free to comment and suggest further tips. Next page is on using the EVF
  9. begbie

    Praying...

    Camera: Leica M-P (typ 240) Lens: Noctilux-M 50mm f/0.95 ASPH. Location: Wien No crop as usual... I liked the tones of yellows in the picture and believe that her yellow hat completes this tonnage there.
  10. While I was wandering in Reykjavik streets, saw this little boy was checking outside from that window. Quickly turned my camera on, focused and pictured him. Fortunately he was not shy to give that pose or he might think he's hiding behind the frosted glass. Camera: Leica M-P (typ 240) Lens: Noctilux-M 50mm f/0.95 ASPH. Location: Reykjavik
  11. Skatafell National Park is the biggest national park in Europe, main reason for this park is third biggest glacial cover in the world, it is called Vatnajokul. Camera: Leica M-P Lens: Noctilux-M 50mm f/0.95 ASPH. Location: Iceland
  12. I'm downsizing and looking for a nice portable digital rangefinder style camera primarly for travel. I currently use a Canon D1x which I now find very difficult to pack around given the plethora of heavy lenses. That being said I was initially attracted to the Q but find the fixed 28mm is just a little to wide and restrictive. I love the new SL and seem to always find ways to justify it but truth be told I find the new lenses bulky and over size. The flexibility of being able to use quality lenses appeals to me greatly and perhaps the SL with a 35 & 50 mm Lux's might just change my mind but I still think I'm kidding myself given portability. As a side note I would need to build a new stable of lenses to go with the camera. Knowing that a lot of people will be upgrading to the SL gives good opportunity for used Leica product but Some of the past reviews have been less than stellar! Seeing the SL is so cutting edge I feel that it's almost a step backwards going to anything else? Suggestions would be appreciated as I need to shut my mind off : )
  13. I wanted to capture this night scene just because of the lights coming from the ground and the bokeh behind. Camera: Leica M-P (typ 240) Lens: Noctilux 50mm f/0.95 ASPH. Location: Dubai / Jumeirah Beach Residence
  14. I wanted to capture this moment during my visit to the exhibition of Steve McCurry in Old Town, Prague this year. There were 107 of the best photographs from career of Steve McCurry, the contemporary icon of world photography, including author’s most important photograph, this portrait “Afghan Girl”. Camera: Leica M-P (typ 240) Lens: Noctilux 50mm f/0.95 Location: Prague
  15. Taken only in candle light with no tripod. No crop, no editing... Camera: Leica M-P (typ 240) Lens: Noctilux-M 50mm 1:0.95/50 ASPH.
  16. I've just downloaded the Red Dot Camera app from iTunes. It simulates a manual focus "rangefinder" by using touch-screen dials for shutter speed, ISO, EV compensation, and focus There is no auto-focus or zoom, but a choice of three fixed focal lengths; nor is there aperture control, due to the small size of the lens. As an iPhone 5 user, this is more intuitive and less cumbersome than the device's own camera. It's free with an imprint on images or you pay for the full version. Colin.
  17. I like the concept of the M262 as a stripped down rangefinder for those who do not need or want live view and video. For those who have used the M262, three questions: 1) How does the range/viewfinder compare with the M9, M240, and film Ms for clarity and ease of focusing? 2) How does dynamic range compare vs M9 and 240? 3) How does white balance compare? Thank you in advance.
  18. So, my M3 arrived on Christmas Eve and now has a roll of HP5+ in it. Still working on the settings to cope with the light and lack of meter (using iPhone Light Meter App for now). Just means taking two shots all the time as I realise I've checked something but not made any changes! A real change from my previous SLR/DSLRs - things are now always in focus, except in the little square. I know practice is the best form of learning, and I'm doing a lot of that. But does anyone have any recommendations for books on rangefinder technique?
  19. I stumbled across this website yesterday looking for info on the drawing style of a Leica lens. Most of the current crop of Leica lenses are discussed, along with photographs from those lenses, and also the ZM and CV lenses too. It's a useful resource. http://rangefinder.yodobashi.com/lens/index_e.html
  20. I'm considering buying a Leica for the first time. From some video reviews, I noticed that with a 50mm lens, part of the rangefinder frame is occupied by the lens. Does that mean that with a 35mm lens, an even bigger portion of the frame will be occupied by the lens?
  21. Among the many possible answers to the first question – Why Leica? – my preference to the M-system has been the relatively small size and low weight of the bodies and the majority of lenses, the overall superb optical quality ranging from ultra wide-angle to medium telephoto, including a unique set of fast lenses, the brilliant optical viewfinder (when properly calibrated) and, with the digital Ms, mostly fine-quality, full-format sensors. Overall, the system has the feeling of being an instrument, not some plastic-stuff put together in millions of copies. The price of the instrument package is high. But instruments made in the western world are seldom cheap, so perhaps the price is what one could expect. And the majority of lenses last (almost) forever. When bodies and lenses work as they are supposed to, it’s a real joy to use the M-system. Now and then lenses and/or bodies need calibration or other adjustments or fixes or even being rebuilt. That’s all fine, like for most instruments. Within reasonable limits, that is. This leads to the second question: Why, Leica? First a backdrop: I have owned the last four incarnations of the digital M: M9, MM, M240 and M246. All of these, except the MM, were purchased new. The experiences with the new purchases are as follows: The rangefinder of the M9 was slightly off out of the box. I could live with this for some time, but I got eventually the rangefinder adjusted by Kamera-Service/van Manen during a visit to the Netherlands (handed in one afternoon, picked-up the following day). After that, the body worked as it should; with the feeling of having an instrument in my hands. Great! I sold the body when I bought the M240. The rangefinder of the M240 was also slightly off out of the box. In addition, the red digital numbers in the viewfinder didn’t work properly; typically only parts of the information were shown. The latter was not a big deal, but I wanted to get this error fixed. So I sent the M240 to Leica for adjustment and repair via the Norwegian Leica dealer. The battery charger was also sent to Leica; this did not charge properly, likely because of poor contact between the charger and the power cable. An early incarnation of 50APO was also returned to Leica in this batch – for a check and a possible rebuild linked to numerously reported problems with early units of this (otherwise) brilliant lens. The above package was shipped in mid April. A few weeks ago I picked up a brand new M246 in a local store. The rangefinder was way off, actually so off that it was next to hopeless to use the rangefinder at large apertures. Again, off to Leica for adjustment via the Norwegian dealer. In summary, both M240 and M246 are for the time being at Leica for adjustment/repair due to failure(s) out of the box. The adjustment/repair of the M240 (+50APO) will likely take 3 months. If I am lucky, I might get the M240 and/or the 50APO before I head for this year’s summer vacation. I have no idea when I can expect to get the M246 back from Leica. Therefore my question: Why, Leica? Why don’t you do a proper check of the bodies leaving the factory? Shouldn’t the rangefinder be as easily checked and rechecked on your side as by users (like me) on the purchasing side? Particularly now with focus peaking on the digital M? I would guess that the cost of adjustment/repairs during warranty must be non-trivial. Not to mention the frustration on the consumer's side. I simply don’t get it. Given the premium price – wouldn’t it be reasonable that bodies that are off out of the box get a priority that reduces the repair waiting time on your side? Alternatively, what with an option to offer a body for rent (possibly with a deposit or for a modest cost) during the repair time when the bodies are off out of the box? Or a replacement? From a user’s side, the absolutely most useless and expensive bodies/lenses are those that are being off for a repair for an extended period of time because of sloppy quality check on the factory side. It’s also frustrating to spend time on contacting dealers and service agencies with typically vague and non-definite responses. Leica – as any brand – exists because of the customers, not vice versa. I apologise for taking your time, but this is a bit more frustrating than I am comfortable with. Postscript: The Norwegian dealer states that they will likely be able to provide a body when I head for vacation. This is fine (given that the body is properly working, including a calibrated rangefinder). But the question - Why, Leica? - remains valid. And in the mean time, no body/bodies to use. Grrr... PS2: The attached images illustrate the position of the focus based in the rangefinder (assisted with a viewfinder loupe) and the digital focus peaking with 10x magnification. The focus should be on the last "I" in "MODIGLIANI", and the photo with the digital focus is spot on. Additional tests have been done with other lenses with similar result; the rangefinder is way off and rather useless for accurate focusing. (M246, 90 Summicron, f2, on tripod, no post-processing except reduced image size).
  22. I just bought a used M5 and discovered a large translucent stain in the upper end of the rangefinder window. I tried to gently wash the outside of the glass, but it seems to be on the inside. Does anyone know what it is and potentially how bad or harmless it is for the rangefinder window? Should I try to return the camera or can I possibly fix it myself?
  23. Hey everyone, I just got my m2 off ebay and had a look through the viewfinder only to see 2 main very noticeable spots. I attached a picture and the one on the lower left looks much dimmer and looks like a dot and a hair almost? It's kind of light greyish and I think it's a particle or dust but I'm not quite sure. However, in the middle the speck seems much darker (basically black) and more prominent. Could this be separation or is it another speckle of dust (imo it doesn't seem like one). If this has happened to you or you know what it is, any input on how to fix or your thoughts would would be greatly appreciated! Also the shutter curtain on the front seems a little pushed forward and I can see the whole seam on it, is that normal? The curtain works 100% fine but I'm not sure if Im supposed to see the whole seam and overlap of the two curtains. On the back it stays slightly open by 1mm or so (didn't include a pic sorry)... should it cause a light leak? The camera was also recently CLA'd. Lastly, the viewfinder has some "gold specks" which I think is separation, but I hope i'm wrong. Please help if you can clarify, recommend a fix, or give any thoughts on ^^. Overall the camera seems amazing and none of the things I mentioned has really bothered me, but if I can learn more about them then it would be great. Thanks in advance, Ashley
  24. I've been having difficulty to focus both my life and thru the rangefinder, it is very frustrated. Forget my life, if I place a ruler flat and at zero degree toward me (12 and 6 o'clock) and see it thru the rangefinder from 45 degrees adjacent. The focus block that moves left to right sees the ruler at 1 and 7 o'clock which is approx. 10 degrees off clockwise. It happens on all my lenses, so I can presume that the rangefinder is creating this issue. I was expecting the image block is also at 0 degree. Is my camera normal or the rangefinder is misaligned?
  25. What a milestone for Leitz. Their RF system is still in use, Leica is currently the only camera maker in the world that makes rangefinder film cameras. Looking for photos, stories and anecdotes on the first rangefinder Leica II (D) that started its pioneer journey in 1932, ninety years ago to date - paste them here.
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