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Hi all, I’ve got a Leica M6 TTL and was wanting to be able to use it at night/low light on an upcoming trip so was wanting to use a flash (I’m fine with just using manual settings don’t need to use the actual TTL with a leica flash to save $$) I did some reading online and was a bit confused so was hoping a few experts here could clarify: I’ve already got an Olympus FL14 flash (manual here) which I was hoping I could use with the camera. However, I was a bit concerned after reading about the m6ttl and flash, as read I the m6 ttl is succeptible to the strobe voltage compared to m6 classic and older Ms. My understanding is a newer flash like the fl14 should have a relatively low strobe voltage so shouldn’t do any damage but I was hoping anyone was able to let me know if they’ve ever used one or similar on a leica M, or alternatively the best way to check if the flash is safe (I have a multimeter handy). Cheers!

I recently purchased a Leica M6 TTL second hand (SN 246914 if it's helpful) and I've been loving it but having ongoing and difficult to resolve issues with some horizontal markings even after multiple repairs and I am really hoping someone here is able to provide some insight into how I can resolve this problem. Initially, the effect was quite bad and had some big distortion on the whole left hand side of the frame even in not particularly bright scenes. As there are a few samples and the photos are larger than the file limit, I've placed them all in a dropbox link here (see before_repair images). Seeing this, I discussed the issues with the previous owner who was very helpful, but had not seen the issues at all when he was shooting with it previously. He also hadn't been using the camera very much in the lead up to him selling it. I took the camera to Camera Clinic for repairs in Melbourne. The report from this repair entailed the technician 'straightening the distorted shutte light traps. adjust the shutter speeds. re-assemble and test'. After these repairs the effect was greatly reduced, however, I still noticed that there were some issues when shooting into bright light in particular (see after_first_repair images in the dropbox). Keen to get the issue fully resolved I took it back to Camera Clinic and discussed the issue with the technician. His theory was that the metal on the interior frame edges may have been partially removed so bright scenes cause reflected light off the frame edges resulting in the marks. Accordingly, he 'applied a dark mask to the frame edge' in the second repair. Unfortunately when I was shooting in bright scenes again I noticed that the issue was still occuring much to my dismay (see after_second_repair image). I really love this camera and I am super excited to keep using but before I have some long stints of travel and shooting I'd really love to get the camera in full working order, especially as I am often shooting in bright scenes. If there is any insight or help anyone is able to provide in fixing the problem it woud be greatly appreciated! I'm very happy to provide any extra photos or details if it helps in diagnosing the issue as well Cheers for reading, Josh

Over the years I have been fortunate to be able to work and save some extra money to pursue my serious hobby of photography. During this time I've acquired an M2, M4 Black Chrome, M4-P and M6 TTL. All bodies are in excellent condition and used regularly on rotation. But now .....I'm lusting after an MP Black Paint since I prefer to have a meter - - It's is not a logical thought process. Why get an MP when I already have the combined functions of an MP in all my current bodies? .......and If I decide to get it I will have to sell a few bodies to fund it fully. So at the end would it be worth it going with an MP and sacrificing the older bodies for it? I know this is such an objective question - and everyone's circumstances are different and I might be going thru an episode of "GAS" but looking for opinions to keep me out of it or going thru with getting an MP .

Liebe Forumsmitglieder, nach längerem Suchen stelle ich fest, daß es zu meiner Frage (s. Title) keine kurze und knackige Antwort gibt. Es ufert oft aus mit den Statements bishin zu der Frage "Warum will man mit einer Leica überhaupt blitzen." 😳. Könnte evtl. jemand von den Experten einfach nur eine kurze Aufstellung posten, mit welchen Blitzen man die TTL-Funktion der M6 TTL nutzen kann. Danke schonmal Hartmut

...This sandgrain day... - ...In questo giorno granello di sabbia... _ Dylan Thomas (from "Poem on his birthday") _ > https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2019/01/07/in-this-sandgrain-day/ 2011 © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo Scan from film Ilford HP5 400 M6ttl, 35'cron

https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2018/12/03/beautiful-catastrophe-085/ 2018 © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo M6ttl, 35'cron, Scan from film Rollei Retro 400s

The future is already written on a little black book Gone lost Forgotten among empty glasses on a bar table In the night Find it again, maybe it's the only way to change something Destiny does not exist I'm lost between the letters of Alphabet City Crazy sirens Violence, violence in the back streets of the city of nothingness Behind the closed eyelids, nothing… [ 182 more words ] https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2018/07/23/nightmare-no-117/ Ph. © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo​ M6ttl, 35'cron, Rollei Retro 400s, scanned

Hola a todos. Soy nuevo en el foro Tengo una M6TTL y un Elmarit 24mm con un visor externo. La composición con este lente es muy difícil porque la M6TTL es un par de milímetros más alta que otras Leica M analógicas (M2,M3,M4,M5,M6) por lo que el visor externo no es muy preciso. Me encanta el lente pero quisiera buscar una Leica M que me de menos problemas Quisiera conocer si alguien tiene experiencia con alguna de estas cámaras y un Elmarit 24mm. Me interesa conocer si han tenido problemas de composición saludos desde Ecuador, América del sur Armando

"Self-portrait 95" https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2017/12/29/self-portrait-xcv/ 2016 © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo​ M6ttl, 35'cron, Scan from film

Ein regnerischer Tag in Brügge mit der M6TTL und dem Fuji Neopan 400 CN

...irgendwo in Lünen Horstmar - eine Brücke über den Kanal....

Herbstleuchten

Read it > https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2017/06/16/dream-no-115/ Ph. © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo​ M6ttl, 35'cron IV, scan from film Rollei Retro 400s

Read it > https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2017/06/13/the-day-i-tried-to-live/ Ph. © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo​ M6ttl, 35'cron, Scan from film

Vergangene Woche war ich auf unserer Halde "Großes Holz", um meinen Neuerwerb mit vorgesetztem Nah-Summicron, auf Ektar 100 zu testen....

https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2017/03/30/fragment-0036 2013 © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo​

My M6TTL, bought almost a year ago, appears to have the frame selector stuck in the 35mm position (well, I think it's the 35mm position). Doesn't change when I change the lens from 35 to 50 or 90, and no switching happens when I try to move the lever either (it moves very slightly, but nothing happens in the viewfinder). I've found some previous posts asking about this, which mostly suggest 'I'd get a CLA and see if it works'. Rather than that reply - has anyone else had this? And how did they repair it? And what is the likely cost? many thanks

Hello Lads, I have been shooting Kentmere 100 for a minute now. Some of the rolls I tend to push to 400 and really loving the results. I find kentmere 100 when shoot at box speed to be sort of flat and pleasant in look but when rated at 400 it becomes angrier:) and with more character. Not bad for a 2.5$ dollar film. Attached pic of my son Milan. thanks !

Bigger > https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2017/01/25/city-sickness-369 2016 © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo M6ttl, 35'cron IV, Scan from film Rollei RPX 400

Bigger > https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2016/12/29/city-sickness-366 2016 © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo​ M6ttl, 35'cron, scan from film Kodak Tri-X 400

Read it > https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2016/12/21/illegal-hours Ph. © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo M6ttl, 50'lux preasph, scan from film Kodak Tri-X 400

Francesca. Bigger > https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2016/10/21/faces-012 2016 © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo​ M6ttl, 35'cron IV, Scan from film Kodak Tri-X

Liebe „Leicarianer“, mein letzter Post hier ist schon eine ganze Weile her. Ich würde mich freuen, wenn ihr mir trotzdem ein paar Tips geben könntet. Leider komme ich in letzter Zeit immer seltener dazu, meine Leica aus dem Regal zu nehmen und muss feststellen, dass meine Skills im Bereich vollanaloger Fotografie mit Messsucher auch echt zu wünschen übrig lassen - was mich wiederum abschreckt, die Kamera zu nutzen. Zwei Probleme habe ich dabei konkret: 1. Korrekt Belichten (Meter richtig lesen; Toleranzbereiche deuten?) 2. Schnelles Fokussieren (genauer: im Sucher erkennen, ob es wirklich scharf ist bzw. wo die Schärfe liegt) Ich fotografiere fast ausschließlich auf BW400CN, sprich mit ISO 400. Die Resultate sind größtenteils falsch belichtet (meist unterbelichtet). Wohl vor allem, weil ich keine einheitliche „Messmethode“ beim Fotografieren habe. Ich habe unzählige Seiten im Internet gelesen auf der Suche nach einem Weg, die Leica richtig beherrschen zu lernen. Doch zufrieden war ich mit den Ergebnissen bisher nie. Meine Frage also: Habt ihr Tips, wie man die Leica M richtig beherrschen lernt? Besonders im Bezug auf Belichtung (am besten ganz ohne den integrierten BeLi) und im Bezug auf schnelles Scharfstellen? Ich bin für jede Hilfe dankbar! Viele Grüße Fernauslöser

"Faces #005" Bigger > https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2016/05/20/faces-005 Christopher Wonder, Magician and Illusionist. Milano, Italy, 2010 © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo​ M6ttl, 35'cron IV, Scan from film Kodak Tri-X 400

Read it > https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2016/02/23/these-are-the-days-of-our-lives M6ttl, 35'cron IV, Scan from film kodak Tri-X 400