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  1. Shot film in the 80s and 90s (Olympus and Nikon) then digital only for past 20 years (including SL 601 since it came out) Loaded my Nikon F5 last year and loved shooting film again. Now considering an M. Have read and watched all I can, so understand the differences between the 3 currently available film M cameras but still undecided. Don’t mind black or chrome (and not chasing a BP finish). Have always had a light meter in my camera (apart from shooting my Dad’s old Ilford as a kid) but am attracted to the simplicity of the M-A. Areas I could use advice on include the following please: - quality control issues, not sure if M6 scratching film issue has gone away. - viewfinder, which is best? (My eyesight is ok but am in mid 50s). - reliability over the long term. Anyone else been in my situation? How did you choose? Thanks for your help everyone.
  2. A double whammy festive year of two major M landmarks, the M3 (1954) and M6 (1984). What in your opinion is Leica cooking up for these jubilee anniversaries? I feel a special edition or two coming up…
  3. Hello! I had previously posted some questions about using the Leica SF20 flash with my M6 TTL. I've shot through a few rolls since first getting it and quite liked the results (and experimenting a bit!) However, on my latest roll when trying to use the flash I can't seem to get the flash unit to fire in any mode while on camera. I... - Turned off the body - Attached the flash to the hot-shoe - Turned on the body to flash sync speed (or slower) - Turned on the SF20 to "TTL" mode, and tap the soft shutter on the M6 and the LCD reads out "400 iso" When trying to take a photo and looking through the viewfinder I see the flash symbol (it's solid) on the right hand side, and when taking a photo it never flashes/blinks/etc. From the M6 manual I assume _something_ should occur with the indicator, and the flash should fire. I've checked the hot-shoe contacts and it all seems fine. I haven't tried swapping out M6 batteries yet, or flash batteries because it fires on tests just fine, and my meter workout without issue. Is there anything else I should check or try out? I was able to test the SF20 on a friend's Fujifilm and it fired without issue in "auto" mode. I tried manual/auto and it didn't do anything either. Very odd!
  4. During my last couple of trips in colder temperatures I've noticed that once temperatures get slightly cold the light meter of my M6 gets fairly unreliable. Meaning that the little arrows either don't show up at all, are barely visible or simply give me wrong meterings. I'm assuming it has something to do with the cold draining the batteries. But the temperatures I was in weren't exactly "freezing" - mostly between 0 and 15 Celcius (32 and 59 Fahrenheit) - so I'm not sure. Is this a common issue? Is there a simple fix? Maybe a battery thats more resistant to cold temperatures? Any help would be appreciated!
  5. I've recently purchased an SF20 flash to use with my M6 TTL. I'm trying to make sure I am understanding how to use the TTL setting for the flash properly. After checking the manual it's been pretty unclear, so I have a few questions. 1. As for usage is it as simple as setting the camera+flash to TTL, setting the ISO on the camera, and changing the exposure to your liking? My assumption is the flash will output enough to properly expose for any scene, so just ignore the in camera meter? 2. Setting any settings (aperture/etc) on the flash while in TTL mode only shows you the distance output on the back of the flash, but does it alter the functionality of the flash power output or is it just for reference if you so choose? 3. What other things are worth noting when using flash in TTL mode (or I suppose manual?) It seems that in TTL mode it's mostly just hands off and pretty simple, but I feel like I'm missing something in the process.
  6. Hello, My M6 silver rewind knob and washers have loosened and fallen off. I am still waiting to hear back from Leica parts coordinator on whether it is a user replaceable part or if service is required. It has been over a month, and I have film inside the camera which I’m unable to extract. In the meantime, I see there’s replacement rewind knobs available online, however I am unsure of where to find the correct washers/spring replacements? Can anyone help with advice on where to find replacement washers, and directions for replacing the knob & washers on my own? Thank you in advance!
  7. My M6 Classic meter just died. I changed to a new battery and still dead. So what options do I have now? Guess its Leica Germany with 12 months service time and €2 000, if its even possible. I want to swear but I guess its not allowed. 🙂
  8. Hello! I was curious what most folks use to clean their M6 bodies (isopropyl, metal varnish, etc) ? It's in great shape, but around the shutter dial and in the hotshoe there is some grime/dirt build up. There is also some slight dirt (it looks like?) under where the advance lever is. It's only able to be seen in the right light and doesn't just rub off.
  9. I've recently noticed that my M6 shutter seems to be doing something weird while in bulb mode. While in bulb mode, the first shutter curtain seems to stop short and remain 0.5-1mm into the film gate. This only happens in bulb mode, it clears the gate at all other shutter speeds as far as I can tell. Here is a video I recorded demonstrating what I mean: https://imgur.com/a/ENYmR7i You can see that the shutter clears the gate just fine when set to a shutter speed of 1 second, but when I switch it to bulb it seems to stop short and remains visible in the gate until the shutter release is let go and the shutter closes. I asked on Reddit but didn't get much of a response. One user did say that their M6 also does this and has no effect on the images. Can anyone else confirm? I just had my M6 overhauled by Leica NJ earlier this year so would this be something they would cover under some kind of warranty?
  10. Article on the Online Photographer website about a recent interview with Dr Kaufmann on a French website. Interesting snippets regarding film & digital M production numbers. PS - wasn't sure if this was the best place for the post - feel free to move it if it would garner more readers elsewhere.
  11. There are currently five analog M bodies in regular production: MP black paint, MP silver, M-A black, M-A silver, and M6 reissue. Which is your favourite? Or, rather, if you had to delete one from the lineup, which model would it be? I’ve handled and used all of them except the black M-A. I think the black paint MP is the most stunning. That said, I believe the M6 reissue holds its own against the MP and M-A and is quickly becoming my go-to analog camera.
  12. I use the IDS grip on my M10-P because I feel the M10-P is too heavy to grip for long time with the bare body. But for M4, I’m not sure if I also need a handgrip because it is way lighter than M10-P with the same lens setup. And for aesthetic reason I don’ like the IDS grip for analog M and also many other grips that enclose the whole baseplate with considerably ugly thickness add to the body. I very much prefer the sleek design of analog M-bodies. So I want to try the 14405 but when I saw its second-hand price I hesitated and found the made-in-our-China replica only sells at 1/3 of the preown-price for 14405. So I ordered one, but disappointed once I put it on. There is plenty much room between the handle and the body of my M4, and the grip becomes unsteady and crappy. I asked the manufacturer and his response is they made it primarily for M6, period. I have never touched an M6 in real life so I doubt if there is really that much difference between the M4 and M6? I thought the Leica Ms are quite consistent with the M4 design after the M5 affairs…
  13. I just got a great deal on an M6 Classic, but it has very few bubbles here and there. (nothing major) I'm sure this subject has been written about multiple times on this forum and some of you may be tired of reading the same thing again and again. However, I was wondering if it would be possible to reverse the oxidation by getting it to bare zinc and painting it. Would it need to be treated with some type of chemical? Would it happen again? Sending it to Leica is not an option for me and M6 Classic top plates are hard to find online. So, is there any ways to reverse this zinc plague on the top plate?
  14. Hi, I have had a M6 (serial number is in the 1665000 range) for about 7 years now and to be honest, haven't used it a lot in the last few years, but fired it up again recently and noticed that I think the light meter is functioning odd. In the past, I could press the shutter button when the film wasn't wound on and the light meter would activate, briefly, and then I could set the exposure. Now it doesn't do that, but when I wind film on, it will activate the light meter and not turn off until a photo is taken. I ran a roll of film through and it works fine - i.e the exposures were fine - it just seems to activate differently that it used to. Is this a common thing anyone knows about? I live in Melbourne, Australia and it's tough to get a repairer here who will look at an M6. Any advice would be REALLY helpful. Thanks in advance! Scott (Also, I added a photo of my camera just 'cause it's a nice looking thing.)
  15. Hey Guys, I wanted to buy a used leica since months now. But I am still unsure if I should go with the M6 or the M4? The only big difference is that the M6 has a lightmeter and the M4 not. But since I work in the film industry. I wanted to buy a separate light meter anyway at some point. So is it better to go with the cheaper M4 and get also a good lens instead of spending a lot on the M6? Looking forward to your replies Best Thomas
  16. Dear all, first of all thanks in advance for your kind support. I have just bought a Leica M6 from an amateur and using it with a 50 Summilux. Analysing the camera, everything looked simply perfect and I bought it and the day after immediately tested it with a B&W roll to be self developed. That's exaclty when I realized that something was wrong: 1. My first issue has been related to film rewinding, after putting the camera on R mode, the lever was so tough to move and rotate and really really heavy 2. Then on film, the frames seem to be too spaced from each other as you can see in the picture below (at least 5 mm) 3. But what really concern me is the spring under the winder that seems to be damaged or somehow messy 4. Finally I realized putting another roll that during first 10 exposures the winder was light and creamy and after it becomes more and more to get tough as if it faces resistance somewhere. Do you know how can I sort this issue and how much could this cost? Thanks again for all your kind support and cooperation Daniele
  17. First of many pictures taken in this italian city through the years
  18. My 1st M6 film shot, here goes with analogue!
  19. Hallo, nach längerer Zeit bin mit meiner M6 mal wieder wie "in den guten alten Zeiten" ein wenig durch die Gegend gezogen. Im Dortmunder Osten habe ich diese nette Straßenszene eingefangen, viel Spaß damit. Benutzt wurde ein Summicron 2/50 an der M6, der Film war ein Kodak 200er- Farbnegativfilm. Die Belichtung war 1/125 bei Blende 8-11. Durch die relativ tief stehende Sonne von Seite her wurde die ganze Szenerie gut ausgeleuchtet. Ich war bei der gewählten Belichtung skeptisch ob da was Vernünftiges herauskommt, aber das Ergebnis fand ich doch am Ende ganz überzeugend. Scan von KB-Negativ , nur in der Breite heruntergerechnet, keine sonstige Bearbeitung.
  20. Hallo zusammen, ich bräuchte mal die versammelte Kompentenz in diesem Forum. Bei einer meiner M6 ist eine Schraube am Filmtransporthebel verloren gegangen die den Plastikaufsatz auf dem Filmtransporthebel festhält und gleichzeitig dessen Beweglichkeit ermöglicht. Ich würde jetzt mal auf eine Zapfenschraube in der Größe M3x1 oder ähnliche Dimension tippen. Ich füge mal zwei Fotos zur Erklärung bei. Ein Bild zeigt den Hebel mit den noch vorhandenen Teilen an der einen M6 (ohne Schraube) und das andere Foto den Normalzustand (mit Schraube). Kann mir hier jemand weiterhelfen bzw. hat so eine Schraube für mich übrig? Vielen Dank im Voraus!
  21. Liebe Forumsmitglieder, ich habe ein sehr gut erhaltenes 90er Objektiv und möchte gerne Portraits photographieren. Da ich noch auf der Suche nach einer Kamera (M6) bin, habe ich bei einem bekannten Fachhändler angerufen. Dieser meint, dass die M6 eher für 50er Objektive und Streetphotographie ausgelegt ist und dass es mit einer Suchervergößerung 0.85X /90er schwierig für Anfänger ist, vernünftige Ergebnisse zu erhalten. Da er Experte ist und ich Laie denke ich, dass der gute Mann Recht hat. Dennoch würde ich gern von Euren Erfahrungen lesen. Muss ich das Objektiv abstoßen? Also Kombi M6 / 50er als Brillenträger mit Dioptrin +2,0? Danke für Eure Tipps. Viele Grüße andreas61
  22. Hello there! I feel like something is wrong with my Leica M6, but I can't confirm as it's my very first Leica (and I LOVE it). When it is 'powered' (fresh new batteries and not on Bulb mode), if I press the shutter half-way or even all-the-way, I don't get any reading in the viewfinder. The light meter is powered on and giving me a reading only when the wind lever has been pulled completely and the camera is ready to take a picture. While I can still use the camera properly, in specific light conditions (low light, cloudy and changing light) it's a bit risky to use as sometimes I have to wait 10-15 mins to have the natural lighting I'm looking for and the trigger could be pressed by inadvertence at any moment. Could you guys please confirm that: This is not normal, and the light meter should give me a reading even though I didn't pull the lever (as long as the camera is not on Bulb mode) It wouldn't be too crazy to fix as it should 'just' be a connection missing Thank you in advance.
  23. Hi to everyone here, I currently owned M6 and MP (type 240) by nature, i usually like shooting at 35 mm focal length. I am aiming to upgrade my summicron asph to a summilux which 35mm summilux lens will be the ‘one lens’that would fit with my two camera bodies?(digital and film) I will be studying abroad( in edinburgh), so i would like to hear thoughts and comments from fellow experienced users in this forum. Thank you
  24. Hello to all, I would like to request your help/advice. I currently own and use a Nikon F3, but feel the need for something new to help with street/travel photography. After doing a fair bit of research I have come up with buying either the M5 or the M6ttl. I can't actually go to a store and handle these cameras and I will be buying online, I am drawn to the M5 but the worry is I am buying something bigger than my F3 when I am looking for something less intimidating when on the street? however the shutter dial and viewfinder look like great additions. With the M5 it seems the Shutter speed in the viewfinder would also be useful and perhaps better than the LED's in the M6? Could anybody who owns an M5 post some size comparison photos to give me some idea of what it looks like next to the F3? How Do you find the M6 TTL, LED system? I will be predominantly using a 35mm and 50mm lens to start with. Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated, Thanks !
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