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Showing results for tags 'm6'.
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Shot film in the 80s and 90s (Olympus and Nikon) then digital only for past 20 years (including SL 601 since it came out) Loaded my Nikon F5 last year and loved shooting film again. Now considering an M. Have read and watched all I can, so understand the differences between the 3 currently available film M cameras but still undecided. Don’t mind black or chrome (and not chasing a BP finish). Have always had a light meter in my camera (apart from shooting my Dad’s old Ilford as a kid) but am attracted to the simplicity of the M-A. Areas I could use advice on include the following please: - quality control issues, not sure if M6 scratching film issue has gone away. - viewfinder, which is best? (My eyesight is ok but am in mid 50s). - reliability over the long term. Anyone else been in my situation? How did you choose? Thanks for your help everyone.
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A double whammy festive year of two major M landmarks, the M3 (1954) and M6 (1984). What in your opinion is Leica cooking up for these jubilee anniversaries? I feel a special edition or two coming up…
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Hello! I had previously posted some questions about using the Leica SF20 flash with my M6 TTL. I've shot through a few rolls since first getting it and quite liked the results (and experimenting a bit!) However, on my latest roll when trying to use the flash I can't seem to get the flash unit to fire in any mode while on camera. I... - Turned off the body - Attached the flash to the hot-shoe - Turned on the body to flash sync speed (or slower) - Turned on the SF20 to "TTL" mode, and tap the soft shutter on the M6 and the LCD reads out "400 iso" When trying to take a photo and looking through the viewfinder I see the flash symbol (it's solid) on the right hand side, and when taking a photo it never flashes/blinks/etc. From the M6 manual I assume _something_ should occur with the indicator, and the flash should fire. I've checked the hot-shoe contacts and it all seems fine. I haven't tried swapping out M6 batteries yet, or flash batteries because it fires on tests just fine, and my meter workout without issue. Is there anything else I should check or try out? I was able to test the SF20 on a friend's Fujifilm and it fired without issue in "auto" mode. I tried manual/auto and it didn't do anything either. Very odd!
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During my last couple of trips in colder temperatures I've noticed that once temperatures get slightly cold the light meter of my M6 gets fairly unreliable. Meaning that the little arrows either don't show up at all, are barely visible or simply give me wrong meterings. I'm assuming it has something to do with the cold draining the batteries. But the temperatures I was in weren't exactly "freezing" - mostly between 0 and 15 Celcius (32 and 59 Fahrenheit) - so I'm not sure. Is this a common issue? Is there a simple fix? Maybe a battery thats more resistant to cold temperatures? Any help would be appreciated! -
I've recently purchased an SF20 flash to use with my M6 TTL. I'm trying to make sure I am understanding how to use the TTL setting for the flash properly. After checking the manual it's been pretty unclear, so I have a few questions. 1. As for usage is it as simple as setting the camera+flash to TTL, setting the ISO on the camera, and changing the exposure to your liking? My assumption is the flash will output enough to properly expose for any scene, so just ignore the in camera meter? 2. Setting any settings (aperture/etc) on the flash while in TTL mode only shows you the distance output on the back of the flash, but does it alter the functionality of the flash power output or is it just for reference if you so choose? 3. What other things are worth noting when using flash in TTL mode (or I suppose manual?) It seems that in TTL mode it's mostly just hands off and pretty simple, but I feel like I'm missing something in the process.
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Hello, My M6 silver rewind knob and washers have loosened and fallen off. I am still waiting to hear back from Leica parts coordinator on whether it is a user replaceable part or if service is required. It has been over a month, and I have film inside the camera which I’m unable to extract. In the meantime, I see there’s replacement rewind knobs available online, however I am unsure of where to find the correct washers/spring replacements? Can anyone help with advice on where to find replacement washers, and directions for replacing the knob & washers on my own? Thank you in advance!
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My M6 Classic meter just died. I changed to a new battery and still dead. So what options do I have now? Guess its Leica Germany with 12 months service time and €2 000, if its even possible. I want to swear but I guess its not allowed. 🙂
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Hello! I was curious what most folks use to clean their M6 bodies (isopropyl, metal varnish, etc) ? It's in great shape, but around the shutter dial and in the hotshoe there is some grime/dirt build up. There is also some slight dirt (it looks like?) under where the advance lever is. It's only able to be seen in the right light and doesn't just rub off.
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I've recently noticed that my M6 shutter seems to be doing something weird while in bulb mode. While in bulb mode, the first shutter curtain seems to stop short and remain 0.5-1mm into the film gate. This only happens in bulb mode, it clears the gate at all other shutter speeds as far as I can tell. Here is a video I recorded demonstrating what I mean: https://imgur.com/a/ENYmR7i You can see that the shutter clears the gate just fine when set to a shutter speed of 1 second, but when I switch it to bulb it seems to stop short and remains visible in the gate until the shutter release is let go and the shutter closes. I asked on Reddit but didn't get much of a response. One user did say that their M6 also does this and has no effect on the images. Can anyone else confirm? I just had my M6 overhauled by Leica NJ earlier this year so would this be something they would cover under some kind of warranty? -
Article on the Online Photographer website about a recent interview with Dr Kaufmann on a French website. Interesting snippets regarding film & digital M production numbers. PS - wasn't sure if this was the best place for the post - feel free to move it if it would garner more readers elsewhere.
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There are currently five analog M bodies in regular production: MP black paint, MP silver, M-A black, M-A silver, and M6 reissue. Which is your favourite? Or, rather, if you had to delete one from the lineup, which model would it be? I’ve handled and used all of them except the black M-A. I think the black paint MP is the most stunning. That said, I believe the M6 reissue holds its own against the MP and M-A and is quickly becoming my go-to analog camera. -
I use the IDS grip on my M10-P because I feel the M10-P is too heavy to grip for long time with the bare body. But for M4, I’m not sure if I also need a handgrip because it is way lighter than M10-P with the same lens setup. And for aesthetic reason I don’ like the IDS grip for analog M and also many other grips that enclose the whole baseplate with considerably ugly thickness add to the body. I very much prefer the sleek design of analog M-bodies. So I want to try the 14405 but when I saw its second-hand price I hesitated and found the made-in-our-China replica only sells at 1/3 of the preown-price for 14405. So I ordered one, but disappointed once I put it on. There is plenty much room between the handle and the body of my M4, and the grip becomes unsteady and crappy. I asked the manufacturer and his response is they made it primarily for M6, period. I have never touched an M6 in real life so I doubt if there is really that much difference between the M4 and M6? I thought the Leica Ms are quite consistent with the M4 design after the M5 affairs…
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Just 20 worldwide. What a timeless beauty. Thoughts?
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soooo i just tried using my nikon 50mm (vintage lens) with adapter on my leica m6 but, apparently, i couldn't focus. is it supposed to like that or am i missing something? and do u know any alternative other than voigtlander lens for leica?
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Hallo, bei meiner Leica M6 habe ich mir leider mehrere Löcher eingebrannt. Hat jemand Tipps wo ich die Kamera reparieren lassen kann? Außer in Wetzlar direkt? Ich bin dankbar für jeden Hilfe Möchte meine M6 noch nicht in den Ruhestand schicken. Gruß
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From Robb Report, a quick look at the making of the new 2022 M6: -
I have just acquired a beautiful M6 (see below) from Andy at Classic Cameras in London. He described it as “mint” and it doesn’t look as though it has ever been used. Despite its age it is unmarked and was serviced by Leica Germany prior to sale. First time I have dealt with Andy who was very helpful, very knowledgeable, and a great guy to talk to. I have known of his shop for years and he has supplied Leicas to all the greats. I would recommend contacting him, a sheer pleasure to deal with (everything done by phone in my case) if there is anything you are looking for. Gerry
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I have tried to capture as many details as possible of the new Leica M6 re-issue. Please feel free to add your observations and images.
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From Blind magazine, here's an interesting essay with photos - https://www.blind-magazine.com/stories/welcome-to-the-leica-world/
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Hi guys! A few months ago I booked the "Leica Weekend at Leitz-Park" and last weekend I spent there for 2 days (from Friday to Saturday), dropped off my M6 Classic at the Leica Customer Care to fix the peeling off leatherette and asked the Leica staff member there about the M6 Classic repairability and MP black chrome. I wrote my experience on reddit in a 2-parter post attached with photos: Part 1: 2 days at Leitz-Park (more in the comments section) Part 2: Continuation: 2 days at Leitz-Park + M6 Classic & MP black chrome info from Leica staff (more in the comments) Here the excerpt for the relevant part in the part 2 write-up: -
Hat schon mal jemand ungregelmäßig auftretende Abstände zwischen den Einzelbildern beobachtet? Hans
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my early m6(leitz) had a lightmeter problem when exposure correctly, the both LED's not lit, it doesn't metter the use but i notice this situation is not common, i don't know is there anyone had same problem as mine, and wants to know is this a factory setting or it's a broke, thanks a lot
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Hi, I am trying to replace the film rewind crank, and I cannot loosen the screw underneath the flip-out handle. Is there a trick to doing it? Or is it more complicated than just removing the screw? Thank you.
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Hello all, First time here so thanks in advance for you help. I've scoured the internet trying to get to the bottom of this pesky problem but have yet to find a proper solution. In 5-10 exposures per roll, I get these white horizontal bands across the frame, always in the same place at the top, and sometimes at the bottom. It happens at different shutter speeds, apertures, with different lenses and with different developing labs. The light leaks occur on the negatives and on the scans. It extends between exposures on the negatives and isn't restricted to each rectangle. Weirdly, the majority happen indoors with 1/30 @ f/2.5 but they also happen in bright light outdoors. I had Youxin Ye do a CLA one year ago and he replaced "the light seal from the shell to the back door area" and "added a light strip at the back door edge". Unfortunately the light leak issue wasn't solved. I've shined a flashlight through the curtain in a pitch black room and no light comes through so I wonder how it could be the curtain. Also, as far as I'm aware, it seems like the issue with holes in the curtain manifests as white spots on the negatives, not horizontal white bands. I'm including a couple pictures hoping someone could help me diagnose this particular problem. Thanks in advance for you help!
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As shown in the picture, I shot this using my new 35mm 1.4 FLE lens at widest aperture and I’m shooting with the lens hood on. Does anyone happen to know what caused the circular light rings around all light bulbs? Is it due to lens defects for this particular lens or it’s a general thing for FLE lenses? Any help is greatly appreciated!
