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PLZ

  1. A double whammy festive year of two major M landmarks, the M3 (1954) and M6 (1984). What in your opinion is Leica cooking up for these jubilee anniversaries? I feel a special edition or two coming up…
  2. This is my first forum post. Apologies if this is the wrong forum for my question--please tell me if I should post in another forum for this. I inherited my grandfather's doublestroke m3 and started to return to film photography with it. After reading lots of reviews, I bought a new Zeiss 50mm Planar f/2--it is generally reviewed as exceptionally sharp. I just got back my first few rolls of film think that the images all suffer from a softness. I know there are several variables at play here, but I wanted other opinions on how to trouble shoot this. The images were shot on Kodak Portra 160 and professionally developed. I scanned using my Epson v600 with silverfast 8, 3200 ppi. I also have a medium format camera and have gotten extremely crisp images using the same setup. The leica/zeiss images all seem soft to me. I'm wondering if this is 1) a focus issue, 2) some defect with the lens (purchased new over ebay from Japan), 3) a scanning issue, 4) this is normal for 35mm film scans and my expectations are biased by coming from medium format. I do no think the softness is due to camera shake because I'm seeing it in all images and they were mostly taken at a shutter speed faster than 1/125. thanks for any advice. Here is a sample image: and here is a 100% enlargment.
  3. love their videos, they release the videos a week or so before the actual sale, which in this case in in the 1st week of January 24 https://www.kitamuracamera.jp/ja/event/onlinesale_2023_1226
  4. After learning here about Milliput epoxy to repair missing vulcanite, I did a first repair yesterday on my M3. I'd put a kind of superglue along the broken edge while waiting for the epoxy to be delivered from the UK. For the repair, I cleaned exposed metal with goobegone and scrapped lightly with a small flat blade jewelers screwdriver. The Milliput mixes and goes on fairly easily wearing rubber gloves. I used a flat end of a chopstick that was moistened with water first for the coarse application and then used a wet cotton tipped ear swab to smooth it out. The attempt at making the textured surface was with metal dentist teeth cleaning tools -- which only sort of worked... Photos are attached. To try and avoid future vulcanite damage, I picked up two OEM leather cases on eBay and modded one so that only the body part is left on the camera. One side benefit, one that may not be the reason for a leather strap sewn into the inside of the case, is that I'm using it to hold the film box end. Rod
  5. Newbie here, so still figuring out both my new-to-me M3 and this forum -- and enjoying the ride! I've been into 35mm film photography since the early 1970's (a long-gone Minolta SRT 101, a Rollei B35 I still have, and several Olympus OM's including the nicely kitted OM-1 I still use). But I've been looking at the Leica world for a while and a friend who just got an M6 planted and watered the seeds that became the M3 I got a week ago from a retail shop. The SS body (1047xxx) is in great shape and it came with a Summarit 50mm 1.5 and a 35mm Summaron 3.5, both of which appear clean and working well. I'm only on my second roll of HP5 and haven't processed anything yet, so can't say yet if (i) I know what I'm doing, or (ii) if everything works ok. The shutter is a marvel after the mirror'd SLR flop, and the rangefinder isn't hard to get used too (I hope)... The aperture ring turning in the 'wrong' direction is 'interesting'... A bit of the vulcanite chipped off because the camera bag I'm using was too tight, so I've taken the advice found on this forum and ordered some Milliput epoxy for a fix. I've also found two original leather cases on eBay, one of which I've modded to use only the part that protects the body. I've ordered a body cap and a spare lens cap on eBay and will try getting some UV filters at the local shop. And so it goes.
  6. Those M3s look like they are going on a Christmas Tree. Ultra rare promotional photo of ELCAN, Midland (ON) from 1955.
  7. Came to this promenade park last Sunday. Leica M3, Voigtlander 21/4, Kodak Vision3 5219
  8. stvn66

    M3 vs iiig

    If you were given the choice between a Leica iiig and a Leica M3 which would you choose and why?
  9. I recently was given a Leica M3 and in my first role, the photos appear to have double and triple exposed by accident. Most negatives have no space in-between them and the edges have overlapped. The photos don't overlap the sprocket holes. Has anyone else experienced this or have any suggestions on how to fix it? Or do I just have to get it serviced? Whilst shooting there was no odd feeling whilst winding the film on, it was all very smooth. I did a test with a dud roll of film by setting the camera on Bulb mode, While the shutter was open I drew out the frame onto the negative with a pen, wound the film on, and repeated this until the role was done. In this test, all the photo frame lines came out perfectly and none of them overlapped. I'm baffled as to what occurred in my initial role. Photos are of Glasgow, Scotland
  10. I am a long-term M3 and Rolleiflex shooter, and for black and white am more than happy making prints in the darkroom. Shooting color on film is also fun, but developing and scanning, for me at least, isn’t. And I’ve been wanting to have the experience of shooting digitally with my M lenses for a long time. So last week I took the plunge and bought a used M10R. I got the silver version and am struck by how much it looks and feels like my 1960 M3. The simplicity of the camera makes me happy — I was concerned about being overwhelmed with menus — but I’m sure I have much to learn about getting the most out of the camera, about post-processing, etc. (It renders black and white beautifully too, but I won’t put aside my film cameras). Do any other film shooters have advice or experience to share about their transition? Any thoughts are welcome.
  11. is this manual actually from 1959 ? https://photographysgoldenageii.wordpress.com/2019/02/08/leica-m3-service-manual/
  12. Leica M3 Sumicron 5cm APX400 in Rodinal
  13. Hello All, About 4 years ago, I came into the possession of a Leica M3 (Double Stroke, 735 xxx) after my friend found it in his grandfather's basement. Anyways, I immediately noticed that the vulcanite had already started chipping off the body due to the conditions which it experienced while not being used for nearly 15 years and I (of course) I wondered if there was any way to remedy the detection of the vulcanite. Now (four years later) I'm wondering if I should re-vulcanize the body or if I should leave it alone. My main issue is not the fact of shipping it overseas to be restored, but rather the value lost. Will it lose much value if I were to carry out re-vulcanizing the body? Or Should I not even consider this and just leave it alone? - Kevin
  14. So, I've finally decided to dip my toe in the Leica pool. A long-time Pentax user who started with digital, then began to use film more (with an MX and and P30N). An M6 could be in the longer-term, but I want to learn and experience the meter-less world first. With exceptions allowed for family and event photos, I'm aiming for a 'one-camera, one-lens' project next year to teach myself some of the basics I've probably skipped over in the past. I've seen a good oppotunituy for a 'User' grade M3 or, for 200 GBP more, an 'Exc+' M4. My question is whether there is really better value in getting an 'Exc+' over a 'User' given my circumstance. I'm assuming the issue is really the lens, and whilst everyone seems to say 'Summicron 50mm' - can anyone explain the difference between 'rigid' and ottherwise? And which should I go for as a first time RF user. many thanks
  15. 100 t-max, M3, 50mm Zeiss People who have travelled to, or seen images of Shinto shrines in Japan will know about Ema...small wooden plaques on which you can write a wish to the kami/gods. It's common during the New Year's holiday to write your wish for the year. The first picture below is context for those who have not seen Ema. I've seen thousands of these, and wishes range from the cure for a loved-one's cancer, to a plea that Liverpool will win the Premier League. The other day, I randomly selected and turned over one Ema. As I slowly read, (shooting film seems to slow down everything I do), I thought it a bit ironic. "If his tests include English spelling, he will surely need to study more." Says I, the parent of a 6 yr old. .....but then I got to the last sentence.
  16. Guest

    M3 Just arrived

    Using this with a summitar lens and the leicameter mr. the jury is out for me. I know everyone else thinks this camera is wonderful. I am just used to my iiif perhaps. Focusing is much better on the M3 though. And there are many other advantages too. I just like the feel of the iiif. I thought that the light meter may have been out but it was a rotten day and very overcast having said that. A test run really. No art. Just testing functionality.
  17. First of all, hey y’all. This is my first post on the Leica forums. I’ve been a photography hobbyist for a while now and have been browsing the last few months for what I think would be my perfect camera set-up to start saving up for. After quite a few weeks learning the ins and outs of pretty much every camera body under the sun, I think I’ve finally settled on the M3. I love the all-mechanical body, the brass casing, and the quiet shutter—so far I only have one concern. My focal length of choice is 28mm, and occasionally 35mm. Does anyone have much experience using 28mm glass with an M3 body? I am not opposed to using an external viewfinder, but I’m worried that it would sort of interrupt the pure, smooth, and ‘invisible’ sort of experience I’m hoping for with a Leica. I know Joel Mererowitz used wider focal lengths back in the 60s and 70s, does anybody know if he was using an external viewfinder or if he just knew his machine well enough to estimate?
  18. Hello guys, my name is Mat, I'm from Argentina. About a year ago I started shooting street photography with a Fuji X100T and for the last few weeks I've been really wanting to try and buy an M3, so I did it. I bought one, in a trusty camera shop here in Buenos Aires, and it seemed to work well, film advance, all shutter speeds and rangefinder worked well so I had no doubt about it and went for it. After about 3 hours of leaving the store, I sat on a bench to load some film and try it, when I removed the bottom plate a big chunk of the vulcanite broke down and fell, didn't even mind about that because it's replaceable, so I started shooting, finished a roll and left it to be developed and scanned. When I got back home later that day, I was fiddling with it and put the shutter speed dial in 1 sec, fired the shutter and heard it open but never close back, instantly I called the guys at the shop and told them this two problems, they told me to bring the camera to them the next day and that they'd take care of the service charges. Today I left the camera on the shop and went to the lab for the scans and the negatives, when I got home I saw this: And this: Some photos had this "vignette"-like thing that looked like the photos were Extremely underexposed on one side/"correctly" exposed in the middle/overexposed on the other side, for example: AND, the few photos that looked "fine" had this weird black line on one side like this: This one has all of the problems at once: And there's this one that looks fine without any problems besides the shitty quality of the scan: I do not really know if the problem is part of this shutter curtains issue, or if it's the lens, by the way I'm using an Elmar 50mm 2.8, maybe I didn't extend it all the way it should be extended or it might be another problem, but please note that this is my first experience with an M camera and I still don't have the skills that the M call for. Thanks beforehand for any advice, they will be much appreciated! Sorry for the long post and for my bad english! Cheers. Mat.
  19. Hi Guys, I am a new leica user starting with a handsome m3 camera a few months ago. Really loved the camera but i had lost the eyepiece part. I guess it falled somewhr cause it is a 60+ years old camera. The problem is i do not know the parts exact name and how i could find it. A friend of mine gave me the part of m2's but i cant see anything with it. I am uploading 2 photos so you may see and help me about it. --------------------------------------------------
  20. A few years ago, I bought a used (obviously) M3 from B&H in nyc. Armed with a little bit (ie dangerous) amount of knowledge, i knew enough to check the alignment and accuracy of the rangefinder--it was and is perfect--and the general look and feel of the camera, which was clean and smooth operating. It is a single stroke model with a high (above 1m) S/N. I treated myself to a brand new Zeiss 50mm f 2.0 Planar and ran a couple of rolls through it to check the shutter accuracy and focusing. I was satisfied that the camera was up to snuff and I still have and enjoy the camera. But I don't think it is what it appears to be. While it has a single stroke mechanism with the telltale longer advance lever, it has the "buddha ear" strap lugs, the older style film reminder and the decimal shutter speed dial--(1/10th, 1/100th). However, the rangefinder patch has the depth of field "notches" which I understand came later. And what may be a clue--the bottom plate appears to be new but seems to be OEM. Has anyone encountered a camera with this combination of features? I am guessing that this was the work of a skilled repairman who cobbled the camera together from spare parts, complete with a salvaged top plate with a high s/n and bottom plate. Fortunately for me, the camera works beautifully and I am happy with the results. Thoughts?
  21. Hi all, Just had my M6 CLA’d due to a light leak around the shutter curtains. They are demonstrating some curling and leave a light leak when a frame is left in the gate for too long. The tech replaces the baffles among other things but I can still see a bit of light at the edges when shining a bright light. He claims that is normal and his other Leicas also have this. Can anyone attest if that is true by checking your shutter curtain edges when shining a bright light inside? much obliged! Boe
  22. Hi all, Just had my M6 CLA’d due to a light leak around the shutter curtains. They are demonstrating some curling and leave a light leak when a frame is left in the gate for too long. The tech replaces the baffles among other things but I can still see a bit of light at the edges when shining a bright light. He claims that is normal and his other Leicas also have this. Can anyone attest if that is true by checking your shutter curtain edges when shining a bright light inside? much obliged Boe
  23. I prefer to take pictures on overcast days for a variety of reasons. Unfortunately, by definition that means that there is a threat of rain. I take along a zip lock bag so that if it starts raining, i can protect the camera. How concerned should one be about surface water on a film M? Any other clever ways to protect them from this threat?
  24. My father=in-law had a M3 engraved by Leica with his name in the late 50's early 60's. His name was James Herbert Elliott. He went by Herb Elliott so I'm not sure how it was engraved. He was the first photographer to work at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway after it reopened after WW2. I would love to find this camera as a gift to his family. Please let me know if you have any information regarding this camera. I checked with Leica and their records don't go back to the 50's and 60's for engraved cameras.
  25. M3 Horizontal light leak / streak? Help! :-) Greeting all! Attached are images from a '59 M3 seviced by DAG at some undetermined time before I bought it. This issue only occurred on this roll after 20+ previous perfect rolls. This horizontal streak showed up an most of the 38 exposures. It seems worse on longer exposures but is still visible on a few of the faster shutter speeds. It does NOT show at the 1/1000 range. The first two pics are from the first part of the roll, the third pic is from the end of the roll. Film: Ilford 400, lens Sumilux 50mm (with hood). Any help would be appreciated. If this symptom has been discussed and solved, let me know where and I will gladly delete this post :-) The scans just hit my email, and I have asked the lab to check the negatives' rebate to see if it was processing, since I do not have the negatives in hand yet. Many thanks, Dan.
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