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Liebes Forum, ich möchte mir Anfang nächsten Jahres eine digitale M anschaffen und stehe vor der Frage ob es eine M10 werden soll oder ob eine M240 nicht doch ausreicht. zu meiner Situation: Ich habe vor ca. 15 Jahren mit Nikon angefangen zu fotografieren und bin irgendwann auf Sony umgestiegen und habe diese Ausrüstung auch noch nach wie vor als meinen daily Driver (nur Hobby, Job hat nichts mit Fotos zu tun). Vor ein paar Jahren habe ich eine sehr umfangreiche Leica R-4 Ausrüstung und eine Leica M4-2 mit Objektiven (Summicron 35mm, 50mm und Tele-Elmarit 90mm) geerbt. Ich habe mich dann auch relativ intensiv mit den Systemen beschäftigt und so mit der analogen Fotografie angefangen. Nach ca. zwei Jahren ist das leider aber wieder eingeschlafen. Wenn, dann hol ich noch ausschließlich die M raus. Ehrlich gesagt hab ich sie vor allem dabei um sie dabei zu haben. Es macht einfach Spaß die M in der Hand zu halten, das entschleunigte Fotografieren durch die Messfeld-Fokussierung und überhaupt so eine hochwertige mechanische Technik zu bedienen. Was (mir) aber nicht wirklich viel Spaß macht, ist das Belichtungsmessen über den Leica Meter. Das entschleunigt mir dann doch etwas zu sehr. Auch merke ich immer wieder, dass ich die Bilder gerne gleich sehen möchte und mir die analoge Fotografie dann doch nicht so sehr liegt, wie ich mir das vielleicht wünschen würde. Lange Rede, kurzer Sinn: Ich überlege, die komplette R-Ausrüstung (R4, 4 Objektive und ein Haufen Zubehör) zu verkaufen und das als „Startkapital“ für eine digitale M zu nehmen. Leider ist der Marktwert einer R-Ausrüstung ja nicht mit dem einer M vergleichbar. Daher kommt eine M11 schon mal nicht in Frage (ist auch nicht notwendig, das wäre dann doch mit Spatzen auf Kanonen werfen, oder so). Die Frage, die sich mir stellt ist, ob es eine M10 sein sollte, oder ob eine M240 nicht auch ausreicht. Der Preisunterschied von ca. 1.500€ ist schon heftig. Was mich aber verunsichert ist, dass es sich bei der M240 einfach um 12 Jahre alte Technik handelt. Ich möchte eigentlich nicht - gefühlsmäßig - in meine Nikon-Anfänge zurück fallen. Natürlich ist die M10 auch nicht gerade taufrisch, aber zumindest „nur“ ca. halb so alt. Aber auch echt teuer, für eine nicht aktuelle Kamera. Die Gläser aus den 70er- und 80er-Jahren sollten ja hoffentlich auch noch genug Abbildungsleistung für beide Sensoren bringen. Ich würde mich echt freuen, wenn ihr mir hier weiterhelfen könntet, was in meiner Situation Sinn macht und was nicht! Liebe Grüße und einen schönen zweiten Advent!

Something bad just happened on my first day of a trip to China. After shooting normally for nearly a day, my M246 start to malfunction. 1. live view shows NO live view - lens cap is off of course. Other things, like built in level, shutter speed, iso, etc, shows properly. 2. automatic shutter speed goes to 32 seconds regardless the light condition. If feels like the sensor has been blocked by something - again the lens cap is off. 3. no matter the shutter is on auto, or manually set to any figure, there is no release of shutter. Ie, the shutter is not working. 4 the play function works well I tried to: - insert a new a SD CARD and format it - insert a fully recharged battery - tried system reset the problem stayed. I tried to use sensor cleaning function but the shutter is not opening. Just before the trip, the camera was sent to Leica Melbourne for a sensor clean. it seemed to work well after, but no extensive testing had been done before the trip. Now I don't know what to do as I don't have a backup camera Any suggestions please?

Hi Guys, Has anyone tried the newly released Handevision IBERIT series of lenses on your M camera? Just looking for some input on what looks to be a valuable alternative. Thanks. Robert E

Hello everybody, I know that Summicron 35 Asph. (v5), does focus shift a bit if used on digital, while not as much as Summilux Asph pre-FLE or others, older design. I've used one on film for years without any problem back in the 90s, sold it many years ago, and recently I've bought another one, used, for my M digital. I'm not looking for perfection, nor doing endless testing on focus chart to split hairs, but this one seems to show too much focus shift even in real pictures: please look at these samples (I have many many others, and, by the way, when I engage the EVF I can clearly see the difference between the sharp, magnified image in EVF and the yet-not-coincident one in rangefinder patch at f/4, so I can exclude a focusing error from my part) (I use Dropbox to upload full-res samples) First sample, f/2, focus on the first plant (a couple of meters away from the camera), seems to me spot-on (and a pretty good wide open performance) https://www.dropbox.com/s/6kq47e913lugejp/216%20f2%20plant.jpg?dl=0 Second one, f/4, focus on the same plant... but sharpness has shifted to the plant behind the first one, and to the background: the plant in the foreground is clearly less sharp than in the wide open shot. https://www.dropbox.com/s/0qej8xtdvxn7042/215%20f4%20plant.jpg?dl=0 Third one, f/4, focus on the little shovel's handle... now first plant seems to be in focus as it should: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2v9kjqn4o2gbwxx/214%20f4%20handle.jpg?dl=0 Should I return the lens, or any Summicron 35 v5 behaves more or less that way when used on M240? (today is the last day I can return it, by the way) Thanks in advance, any advice will be appreciated. S. edit: fixed link URLs

Hi all, I'm looking for some first-hand information on universal finders for M240. I'm wearing glasses, unfortunately, so it's difficult for me to see frame's edges in RF viewfinders: eye relief is critically important to me. Alternatives are: - Voigtlander Zoom Finder 15-35 (discontinued but still in stock somewhere, I think) - Leica 21/24/28 (..I've read bad reviews of this...) - Leica 16-28 aka "Frankenfinder" - any other? Could someone kindly tell me something about these finders? Actually I'm using Leica plastic single-focal finders (and old metal ones), and eye relief is (barely) enough for me. Do Zeiss finders have more? Thank you in advance S.

Hi, Anybody knows how can take video more than 4GB by a M240? My camera stops recording video after 4GB, and it makes problem when I am recording an interview. Thanks,

We have spaces available on our special Leica 'Akademie' street photography workshop on the 28th of October 2016 in the centre of Bristol. This one day course will introduce attendees to the Leica M digital system and how to use the rangefinder system in a street photography environment and is open to both experienced users of Leica cameras as well as those who are new to the M rangefinder system. There will also be an opportunity to use the Leica SL and Q systems in a street environment. Leica Akademie tutor and freelance photographer, Robin Sinha, will host the day and introduce us to the Leica digital M system and how he uses it to maximise his street photography. The day will start at 10am and run until approximately 4.30pm, this will contain a two hour practical part of the day where you will have the opportunity to use the Leica digital cameras in a street environment. 10.00am – 11.00am – Robin Sinha will introduce you to his work with a short talk using his own images to demonstrate Leica Photography. 11.00am - 11.30am - Review and mini-critique of attendees images (attendees are asked to bring 4 images on a USB stick that represent their photography) 11.30am - 12.00pm Familiarisation with the Leica camera range prior to photowalk. 12.00pm – 12.30pm – Lunch break 12.30pm – 2.30pm – Photowalk around Bristol using the Leica cameras provided 2.30pm onwards – Back to the studio for image review and critique. Robin will also demonstrate how to edit your RAW files to get the best from the digital system. 4.30pm approx - finish There is a small charge of £20 for the day, which includes refreshments of tea or coffee. Unfortunately lunch is not provided, but there are plenty of local places to get something during the break. If you wish to book a place on the course, please email bristol@lcegroup.co.uk or call 0117 9291935. Please let us know if you have any queries.

The only item that has attracted my attention in the launch of the new TL system is the EVF Visoflex Type 020 and I believe that the Leica M system deserves an updated version of its EVF with higher resolution, sensor for the eye (to switch it on/off), a tilt and swivel movement for more convenience....so Leica I hope this one is coming Your thoughts / input please...

Hi all, How good is Biogon-C 35 2.8 on M240? Being conceived for film / crop sensors, is there any color cast and/or corner smearing used on full frame digital? And how is compared to Summarit 2.4/35 and 2.5/35? By the way, I've seen MTF figures between 2.4 and 2.5 and they seem slight different, 2.4 seems to be less sharp in center but sharper in the corners than its 2.5 predecessor. Anyone who tried both? How they compares to last (v5/v6) Summicron, that I know quite well? Thanks in advance S.

Hi all, I would like to know from Lightroom users what are your "starting point" sharpening settings, ie. how much amount/radius/detail gives you best results. Thanks S.

Read it > https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2016/06/21/dream-no-99 Ph. © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo​ M240, 21/2.8 Preasph.

My Leica developed a misalignment during my trip to Chicago last week. It was prominent at infinity. Shm it sucked so I emailed Leica repair got a out of the office message Then on Monday Bill Weier emailed me back and told me to bring it in they can fix it in an hour or so if I brought it in early in the morning while I waited. Cool my Leica also had some play in the screen and it's been like that since the last fix but I didn't mention it. Went there in the morning and the place seemed busy. Bill came right out and was a great guy. I had brought my Zeiss lens with me so he took the set to the back. A few minutes later he said,"Hey your rangefinder is out of alignment but so is your lens. It's back focusing. We can fix the rangefinder but not the lens" Oh NO! But hey I had a warranty with Zeiss so off that goes tomorrow. Then Bill says," Hey did you know about this?" as he pushes on the screen with his finger. I shake my head yes. He says," Hey when its this bad that means the seals failed completely and they need to fix it because dust is going into the camera." Well last time it came back cleaned with no dust behind the lcd but then developed the play. So I say ok well let's get that fixed you convinced me. He said it should take 3 weeks. Long story short... my camera is gone long gone lol. I drove all the way there because last time shipping something expensive ups lost it and that was a fiasco. Sorry for boring you guys. Oh ps. There weren't any free magazines......

I have noticed in the two more recent outings with my M240 that i have a lot of dust on my sensor. The attached image is from the most recent outing to see the airshow. The circles are the spot removal I had to do to fix all the dust. As you can see it is substantial. Note that I was stopped down to F22 on a 90mm lens to get the depth needed for the air crafts and people to be in focus. So the dust was more apparent in the image. I have cleaned the sensor with the blower multiple times. I have cleaned the sensor with swab and solution once between the outings. I switch lenses often enough for dust to get in, I expect it to happen. My problem is that after cleaning the sensor so thoroughly I should not have this much dust. It appears that using the blower provides minimal help and the swab basically nothing. Has anyone experienced such persistent dust? Could this be some sort of corrosion on the sensor? I am debating sending it in for a repair and service to fix the issue. Has anyone used this service before and has an idea of cost, procedure, and effectiveness in getting a clean sensor back?

Hi All, Perhaps a daft question, (I only ever used Leica with 0.7m min focusing distance), but I need some information/help on focusing above lens which has minimum focusing distance of 0.8m. (about to get it, so want to ensure all is OK). I understand that lenses below 0.7m are a pain unless you use live view, (which I never do), but what about 0.8m? Will my RF focusing patch register 0.8m as its limit on my M240? i.e. when close to the subject and my RF patch confirms focus, will that be the given min focusing distance of 0.8m? P.S. Just got back to my beloved digital Leica after a few years stint with another system and while waiting to be able to afford to rebuild the system (after just purchasing mint black M240), I need Leica glass and this is my best option as I have a great deal on this lens. Many Thanks in advance, Bobby

Hello fellow reddoters Is any improvement in GPS functioning after last firmware? Last time, i was checking it was terribly laggy and sometimes exif misses geotag info. This made a MFG simple useless for me 😐 Regards.

Just took delivery of a sliver M240 from a pretty reputable seller on ebay. The camera has practically no markings on it anywhere except for (see pic). I've reached out to the seller, and I'll hear back soon. In the meantime, has anyone ever seen this? Thanx!

So I wanted to offer some advice to anyone considering buying a M240 in 2021. Having just parted with mine I can say that it is a lovely camera that has good image quality, but only good quality, I would compare the quality to a canon 5D Mark 2. I would say that if you are coming from an APSC crop sensor you will really notice and like the image this camera makes however if you are coming from a 5Dmk2/3/4 or any of the last 4 years Sony body's you will be disappointed and probably extremely disappointed with the ISO performance. So on the subject of ISO, 1600 is about max that you'd want to use after that the image deteriorates pretty quick. The camera does offer the Leica rangefinder experience but for me as someone who shoots an M4-P I found it was actually slower to make pictures and this is due to the rear screen that really makes judging the image exposure hard. The camera is also quite a bit wider than my Analog Leica. One huge positive is you can use your STUNNING Leica glass on it and that really helps the image quality. So in summary a beautiful camera that takes some great images but is very much lacking by today's technology standards as you can expect from a camera of this age, my personal opinion is that if you are looking for a digital Leica, you need to be using the current top range of cameras if you are coming from canon/Nikon or especially Sony which is king in image quality and low light performance especially when considering price. I hope this helps anyone deciding wether or not to pull the pin on one.

A woman waiting to welcome the first client at the opening of a yoga class (Southampton, England) - verbal permission given. I spotted this as I was walking down the street and asked for permission to photograph her (very unusual for me to ask!). I had the 24mm Elmarit-M f2.8 ASPH fitted, so I shot with what I had. Leica M240 + 24mm Elmarit-M f2.8 ASPH. 1/180 f16 @ 400iso. Gerry

Question to those that have used or have both of the above cameras - is there much IQ difference between the two? I'm guessing that the M10 just has slightly better ISO performance? looking at both of these and struggling to find a reason to pay the extra for the M10 other than it's the latest and greatest. thanks

So I just picked up an M240 and wanted to ask current users - how do people shoot these to get the best results ? Do you under or overexpose the files? I'm using uncompressed DNG is it noticeable over the compressed files? Thanks for any info. Dan

I recently bought an Orion-18 28mm F5.6 lens and coded it as Summaron. The lens has the same structure. [I like it for its compactness and low 'profile'.] I use it on my M240 but bought it for Monochrom. However, I notice some small tinge of purple on the top of this image in the sky. Should I use an IR/UV filter on this lens like on the M8? The Orion accepts 40.5 mm filters. This reminds me of the M8. I remember JaapV once said the M240 has some IR issues. And would [sometimes] need a light IR filter. I tried the M8 filters by Leica on the M240 but did not like the result. Probably way too strong. The following filters in 40.5 mm are available: 370-670nm 400-700nm Which of the above is do you think appropriate?

For unknown reason(s) an oddity is happening with indicated exposure times seen in viewfinder. After making an exposure, for the next two exposures there is no variation in indicated exposure time when panning about with camera. After the third exposure, the indication again varies properly as you pan about different scenes. Then repeats. As if there were an unwanted exposure lock mode in effect for 2nd and 3rd shot of a 3 shot sequence.. Cannot find any obvious settings error likely to be the cause. The bracketing is set to 0. Tried to reload latest firmware but it "completes" in about two seconds so never happened. Does Leica determine the actual present checksum of the loaded firmware and decide that a reload is not necessary?? What am I missing here? Thanks.

Hi guys, I bought an M-P last April, and I have been using it ever since, no problem at all. But last Monday, when I was out shooting photos with it, I noticed one strange thing, after I captured a photo, I pressed the "Play" Button to view it, however, that photo was automatically zoomed in, as if I had moved the thumb wheel, but I didn't do that obviously. I don't remember if I ever put my thumb on the thumb wheel, but I was pretty sure I didn't move it. And it occurred only once, I have done some shooting the following day too, but nothing happened. So have you guys encountered the same issue? What could be the reason behind it? I sweater often when I'm holding the camera, so could the sweater somehow got into the thumb wheel and caused it to automatically move? Or was is it some CMOS or systematic issue?

Hallo Leute, nachdem ich mir manchmal denke, das man nur einmal lebt, muss jetzt eine M240er her. Aus meiner Sicht gerade preislich ein guter Einstieg in das M System. Gesagt getan. Meine Traumlinse, das Leica Summilux-M 24mm 1.4 ASPH ist mir aber einfach zu teuer - und zu schwer. Ich wusste, wenn es mal eine M wird, dann ist das Voigtländer Classic Collection Nokton 35mm 1.4 auf jeden Fall meine engere Wahl. Meine Frage: Auf was sollte man achten? Es gibt auch SC und MC, und warum gibt es diese kaum gebraucht, oder bin ich blind? Danke schon mal. Euch allen schon mal eine gute Zeit. Möge das Jahr 2021 besser werden als dieses!

Hi all! Apologies in advance for the length of this post! I was wondering if you all are able to give me some advice or words of wisdom on whether I should get a Rangefinder Leica. At the moment I’m currently using and enjoying my Leica CL & 23mm f2 Summicron. Purchased in Oct 2018. I absolutely love shooting with the CL and for me it was the upgrade I was always wanting. I even adapt some rare and unique vintage m42 lenses to it and get some amazing results. Now I’m no professional photographer, just a hobby shooter but the Leica CL I have had really developed my love and passion for photography. At the time of purchasing the CL I was using a Nikon D7500 which I still have (but never use) so for me, at the time the CL was the next step up, and I never thought of going for a rangefinder (couldn’t afford the m10 and lenses anyway lol). But now having visited the Sydney Leica store on many occasions to try out the M10 and the rangefinder systems, I’ve grown more interest for a Rangefinder. I’m interested in the M240, maybe the M262. I like the appeal of a brassing body though (a bit of individualism I’d say). But honestly I’m not sure which system to go for (and I don’t have the money for a new M10). What are the PROS and CONS for each system? What makes you want to stay with that system? (if you have one) what would you recommend I do or go for? Now I’ve done heaps of research and reviews on both systems but I really want to hear from everyday people who use them. Thanks!