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I’m wondering if any of you have heard anything about a shutter button failures on M10P. For a while I’d noticed that when shooting vertically it seemed that the shutter release didn’t always function. I wasn’t completely sure about it though: it has been a very rare occurrence and always caught me in the middle of something. Yesterday it happened with the camera held normally in the horizontal and I had the opportunity to observe that pressing the shutter release multiple times produced no action. This seems like a fundamental and what should be a well proven/developed button. Any word of this happening out there? I did a search here and didn’t see any mentions. Thanks!

Leica M10 design is already quite minimalistic, though sometimes it'd be nice to not paying attention to the presence of extra buttons and LCD screen. It's great that M10-D version exists for that purpose. How about introducing similar optional experience to the M10 cameras with screens. This DIY 3D print project is still in progress, and here's the related article with more details and future updates. 3D models linked there are free for download and personal use.

m10p, 50mm summilux asph

Hi all, I've tried to get a hang of zone focusing, but never have been able to pull "sharp enough" images with that method. Today I finally started looking this more precisely. I took a bunch of images, all of them were shot from tripod and 2 sec timer to prevent camera shake. Look f.e. white vegetation on middle left on pictures. When I zone focus, I make sure that hyperfocal point is between distance scale (so f.e. with 21 SEM@f11, if I set focusing to 1.5m, zone focus area should be between 0.75m and infinity) However, this doesn't seem to work (see photo 1, L1004908.jpg, or left side of attached image), image is just not sharp, or to my eye, not sharp enough. If I set focus to infinity (zone focus area from 1.3m to who knows where), images are sharp. (see photo 2, L1004909.jpg, or right side of attached image) ... have I understood zone focusing wrong, is my camera and/or lenses misaligned or what gives. This same happens also with 35mm and 50mm , but with those lenses I understand that zone focusing area is much narrower. And since there's a limit for how big image I can attach (and that's only 1 image), I included dropbox link where you can find full-size jpg files. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/i2s5m6doaqvrvh4h4oaye/h?rlkey=keya4h7v2hu9ymm77wmp4gwqo&dl=0 EDIT: looked at attached image. If I would only need images for web, that would be more that enough sharp. However, if you look full-sized images, you understand what I'm after.

Leica’s new M10 Monochrom (M10M) has been touted by multiple reviewers as offering image quality rivaling that of medium-format film. And Sony explicitly claims that its a7riv camera rivals medium-format cameras. In this test, I compare side-by-side the Leica M10P (24 MP, color) with the M10M (41 MP, monochrome), the Sony a7riv (61 MP, color), and the “full-frame medium format” (54 x 40 mm sensor) Phase One IQ4 (151 MP, color), currently the largest and highest-resolution imaging sensor available to most photographers. (Note that the 102-MP Fuji GFX-100 has a cropped (44 x 33 mm) version of the Sony-manufactured sensor In the IQ4.) For each camera, I used the very best available lens at the best-quality aperture and at base ISO. Test conditions: Leica M10P + Leica APO 50 Summicron at f/5.6, ISO 100 Leica M10M + Leica APO 50 Summicron at f/5.6, ISO 160 Sony a7riv + Sony 85/1.4 GM at f/5.6, ISO 100 Phase One IQ4 + Rodenstock HR90 at f/9, ISO 100 (yes, the base ISO of the IQ4 is 100, not 50). Shooting the IQ4 at f/9 gives a comparable depth of focus as shooting the other cameras at f/5.6. I know from my other tests, and from discussions with Phase One dealers, that at f/9 diffraction is not limiting in practice for the IQ4 sensor (though it can be limiting at apertures smaller than f/9). Everything was shot on a tripod with 2-3-second release delay to avoid shake, at subject distances to give similar subject size and position. Note that the aspect ratio of the IQ4 sensor is 4:3, rather than 3:2 like the other sensors, so I used frame width to match framing. Since I was shooting the IQ4 on a technical camera, all four cameras were mirrorless, with no risk of mirror slap vibrations spoiling sharpness. Raw files were exposure-matched and converted to monochrome using Capture One 20. Then each converted max-quality JPEG was auto-bicubic-scaled in Photoshop to either 7864 pixels wide (the width of native M10M images) or to 14204 pixels wide (the width of native IQ4 images). You can download all the raw files and full-resolution max-quality JPEG files here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/scvrfg8h41naux4/AADw8Cfm37db2BWkGTbie3M2a?dl=0 A tiny 100% crop from near the center of the 14204 pixel-wide images was composited into a matrix for comparison, attached to this post. Click on the image to see the comparison full-size. I choose to use the scaled-up 14204-pixel-wide images since one goal of this test is to determine if any of these imaging systems can approach medium format quality, not to test if they can approach down-sized medium format quality. You can build analogous matrices from the smaller images as well using the files in the above link if you would like. Summary of findings: 1) As expected, all of these four imaging systems with optimum glass, ISO, and aperture produce excellent images at their native sizes. 2) The Bayer CFA-less M10M does indeed punch above its megapixel weight. With respect to capturing subject details, I found the M10M (41 MP) and Sony a7riv (61 MP) to be virtually identical. In fact, to my eye the M10M+50 APO was able to capture slightly more details than the a7riv+85 GM—compare the lint on the upper grey band of the vessel in the attached matrix. 3) The Phase One IQ4 eats all the competitors for lunch if you compare image quality at 100%. But a 14,204-pixel-wide image printed at 200 dpi is 6 feet wide (!). At any practical viewing distance (assuming you don’t need to crop heavily), I would say that the IQ4, M10M, and a7riv are actually quite similar, even when scaling up the latter two images to the 14,204 pixel width of the IQ4 image. Which is pretty cool. 4) The M10P, as you might expect for a 24-MP camera thrown into a resolution and sharpness gunfight, lags well behind the others, but even so, once I view the M10P image at about 50% magnification it begins to look quite similar to the other images. 5) In terms of bang for the buck, Sony offers outstanding value, as usual. The Sony a7riv + 85 GM lens costs ~$5,200. Either Leica body + the 50 APO costs ~$17,000. And the Phase One IQ4 + Rodenstock HR90 costs around $55,000. And the Sony is the only one of the four tested systems that offers autofocus. So can the Leica M10M or the Sony a7riv offer image quality rivaling that of state-of-the-art digital medium format systems? Yes, at practical viewing sizes and distances, when using optimal glass. But if pixel peeping or (very) large prints are your target application, then medium format, for now, has no peer.

Here are results from an initial side-by-side comparison of the M10-P vs. the M10 Monochrom (hereafter referred to as M10P vs. M10M). M10P firmware = 2.7.5.0 M10M firmware = 2.12.8.0 Test conditions: Leica 75/1.25 Noctilux @ f/5.6, which together with the 50 APO @ f/5.6 offers the highest MTF performance of any Leica M lens at any aperture (according to Leica's data) M10P ISO: 100, 400, 1600, 6400, 12500, 25000, 50000 M10M ISO: 160, 400, 1600, 6400, 12500, 25000, 50000, 100000 Auto shutter speed 2-second delay before capture (to eliminate tripod shake) Both cameras were mounted to the same tripod and aimed at the same spot on the subject. Live view at 100% was used to confirm that the optimal focus setting of the lens was the same for both cameras. All DNG files were imported into Capture One 20, desaturated, processed with identical settings, then highest quality JPGs of each image were exported. You can download all the files (JPGs, DNGs, 100% enlargement matrixes) here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fcjvrupm9d2cl2s/AABvi7z2QJZ1sAWU9hwb24-7a?dl=0 Summary: as expected, for monochrome images the M10M handily beats the M10P in terms of much lower noise AND much more detail. In terms of background noise, after scaling the M10P or M10M images up or down to the same size (41 MP or 24 MP), I see about a 1.5-stop noise advantage for the M10M. In terms of "usable" high-ISO image quality for monochrome images, I would set my personal threshold around ISO 18,000 for the M10P, and around 50,000 for the M10M (also a 1.5-stop advantage for the M10M). But the surprise, for me, was that in terms of capturing subject detail, the combination of higher resolution, lack of a Bayer CFA, and (my guess) a better sensor even on a per-unit-area basis together resulted in the M10M at ISO 25,000 capturing as much or more detail in the subject than the M10P did at any ISO. Of course, if you are shooting street photography, kids running, dreamy portraits, etc. the subject detail capture level difference probably won't matter. But if your goal is to capture subject detail and black and white is acceptable, this is the most capable M body to date in my opinion. Attached to this post is a 100% crop matrix from ISO 400 to ISO 50,000 of the M10P. Click on the image to see it at approximately full size. I'll attach the analogous matrix for the M10M to the next post.

Hi Guys! So my birthday is nearly coming and I finally have the courage to buy my very first Leica camera. I’m choosing between the M10 and the M10-P. Can you help me narrowing down what to get. I’m a huge 35mm fuji shooter so I’m having a hard time choosing between the lux and cron. And is it true that Hong Kong sells cheaper Leica’s? Please help me! I need help badly! Thank you

Hi - any help would be much appreciated. I use Lightroom CC on my desktop and on my iPhone. In December, Adobe did a camera profile update where the Leica M10-P was added with the proper profile.Now when I import/look at M10-P photos in Lightroom CC on my desktop, I can see the Adobe profiles for M10-P - e.g. Adobe Standard, Adobe Colour, Adobe Landscape etc in the Profile section (as it should be).However Lightroom CC on my iPhone - I am having an issue where I cannot see the profiles - i.e. Lightroom CC on iOS is not recognising the M10-P files.I contacted Adobe. After a bit of troubleshooting - they looked at my files, they too could replicate the problem and they have recommended I reset my camera etc. However I am saying it works in Lightroom CC for desktop, but not on iOS so the files I think are okay. Maybe it’s just an issue with Leica M10-P and Lightroom on iOS.Does anyone else here use Adobe Lightroom CC on iOS and has imported M10-P files and CAN see the Adobe profiles (Adobe Standard, Adobe Landscape, Adobe Portrait etc)? It's a very odd one and I want to understand if it's my camera or if it's a bug in Lightroom CC on iOS and the M10-P profiles.thank you,

I have a silver M10p, but it had a problem. I open Leica Fotos to turn on Wifi, but it keep rotating and stop at this screen for hours, and it cannot starting any WLAN. The firmware is latest. And this is the first time I use this function when I bought it. And it did not work. Hope you can help Thanks

When a web site like Bhphotovideo.com or Adorama.com sell Leica products like: leather cases, thumb support or a Leica wrist strap. The site claims all these items are compatible for a Leica M10. If I purchase an M10-P will all of these items still fit the M10-P? Nothing on these large consumer sites have anything marketed to the M10-P. So will these products fit the M10-P? thanks, Robert

I am purchasing my first Leica! The M10-p. I was wondering which lens should I go with (current version brand new), the 35mm Summilux or 35mm Summicron. I do not consider the $ what so ever. Why go with one over the other? Is the Summilux strictly better but a matter of $$? Mostly street & reportage-style photography

Hi guys, So today I went out shooting, it was in the afternoon, like an hour or so before sunset time. I found out that a few times when I turned my M10-P on, and my camera was facing the grounds, LV was on, and the LCD started to flicker like it was indoors, but if I moved my camera towards the blue sky, the flicker went away. I was using manual modes and the exposure setting was definitely underexposured. My LCD brightness setting was Auto. Have you seen same thing on your M? Is it normal?

Hi! I have just recently brought a second hand Leica m10p camera that is produce in June 2019. As I was testing it, I found that there is a horizontal line run across most of my pictures. It happens when my camera is heated or I dial the iso up to 1600. Previous seller claim that he never encounter any issue like this... This is my first Leica m camera as I'm not very familiar with it, so I'm not sure if it is trigger by me or is it something else. I have read through all the forum since I have this issue. And was surprise that this is a common issue on this extremely expensive camera. I have follow the instruction from attached post and send several email to Leica to explain my problem, thinking it will be an easy fix. However, a week has passed and never received any email back from Leica customer service nor the technical department. Does anyone has similar problem with horizontal line or customer service? Any advice would help enormously! Thank you so much!

Hi guys, so I had my "reporter edition" of M10-P sent in, which had freezing issue, and Leica replaced the old CMOS with a whole new one. So far, no freezing, however, I run into 2 new "issues" if they really are. 1st one: Sometimes when I press the "Play" button to view the photos, a brief "loading" appears on the screen for like less than 1 second. I didn't do that right after pressing the shutter, even when I was in the menu screen, and that happened, but not very often. 2nd one: Sometimes when I press buttons (like Play or Menu), and there is no response, so I had to press them again, and this is not very often either. I don't remember that I ever had those 2 issues before I sent my M10-P in. I wonder if it has something to do with the very low battery? Have you guys encountered same things on your M10 or M10-P? Are they really issues?

Hi guys, so I have been shooting 3 days in a row with my M10-P, and I found this shutter issue once a day for the past 3 days. So basically, I had Live View on, and when I pressed the shutter release, it couldn't go down all the way, like not a full stroke, but only halfway, and of course, the photo wasn't taken. It didn't occur at the start of the camera, nor in hibernation mode or burst shots. Again, it only happened once a day, usually I would suspect it's the shutter that got damaged, but logically, wouldn't this issue be way more often and easy to reproduce if that is the case? Or could it be some systematic or cache bug, where the camera think it's not ready to fire the shutter? Or, just a broken SD card causing trouble? Has anyone experienced same issue? Any thoughts?

Hi, I've entered the world of Leica for a year or so with the Q2, after ditching photography and my Nikon D90 for 5-6 years. This forum has been a great source of information for me from the beginning when researching about the Q2, and has also most certainly fueled some GAS. Well one thing led to another and now I have the Q2 plus an M10-P and 35 Summilux FLE + 50 Summilux ASPH. I got the 50 first and have been using it exclusively for the past 9 months (Only got the 35 last month). However, in the beginning of Jan 2021, I've noticed that I could not get as reliable focus with the 50 at F1.4 as I used to, even shots between 3-5m at F8 were out of focus dead centre. I did some research and testing and found out that the rangefinder patch did not align at infinity (got close but stops short). This happens with both the 35 and the 50, so it went off to get adjusted at Leica here in Bangkok. After adjustment everything seemed to be ok. Rangefinder patch now align at infinity for both lenses (vertical still slightly off but not an issue) and I could focus reliably with the 50 at 1.4 again, even at minimum distance of 0.7m. However, some shots at 2-3 meters now seem a bit off. But yesterday, F2 shots from 0.7m were slightly blurry, and all shots at F2 from 2-5 meters were off. When zoomed in the photos are not sharp at all. I then did a little test, taking photos slightly before the rangefinder patch aligned, which produced even blurrier pictures, and taking photos a bit pass the rangefinder patch alignment (about 1mm i.e. compensating for front focusing issues). The pictures taken with the rangefinder patch slightly past alignment were extremely sharp, as the 50 Summilux ASPH should be, and was when I first got it. I then swapped in the 35 Summilux FLE and did the same test at F1.4, resulting in photos identical in sharpness. I am aware that the DOF difference of the 35 may be masking any effects that are shown on the 50, as the DOF of 35 at F1.4 is 60cm, and 50 at F2 is 40cm. Unfortunately I don't have any long Leica lenses to test with. M10-P is still within it's 2 year warranty, bought 2nd hand but no dings or anything suggesting it has been dropped. Worked perfectly for the past 8 months as well. Both lenses were bought new and within warranty. Wondering what it might be. Maybe I need to send both the body for calibration again, but this time together with the 50 Summilux? I am really hoping that the lens does not have to go back to Germany.

Hello folks, I’ve been enjoying reading lots of forum topics since buying my first Leica a month ago. The M10p is a revelation after a few years in the Sony world getting confused in settings and menu choices rather than taking photos. Unfortunately one of the few settings on the M10p I have looked at seems to be giving the wrong aperture reading on the Fotos app and subsequently this follows through in Lightroom. For a time I thought I must be remembering how I took the shots incorrectly, but today I was in Sunny 16 and the photo data shows an aperture varying between 5 and 8. I just did a test and uploaded a single photo to Fotos taken at 16 and it comes out as 5. I’m almost certain that the camera doesn’t change the aperture without telling me (!), do I have a dodgy Summicron 50 or camera? My other lens is a Summicron 75 and I haven’t checked that one yet. I’m thinking if that’s also erratic then the issues lies with the camera. Thoughts most appreciated, Richard

Dear forum members. I have found myself in a bit of a conundrum. I bought a Q2 this Jan as my first Leica, and now I also have I a Leica M10-P and a Summilux-M 50mm ASPH as my first rangefinder. LGAS be damned. However, I am finding that the field of view is a bit restricted to what I’m used to, so I am looking for 35mm lenses. Cannot afford a Summilux 35mm right now so looking for some alternatives. The choices I have in mind, in order of price in my country, Thailand, is: 1. TTArtisans 35mm F1.4 ~$500 new 2. Voigtländer 35mm F1.4 ~$600 new 3. Summicron 40mm F2 ~$900 2nd hand 4. Summicron 35mm F2 ASPH ~$2,200+ 2nd hand There are numerous reviews on the Voigtländer, but I’ve heard that it’s a bit soft, and the bokeh is on the busy side. TTArtisans seems very decent for the price. Cannot find many reviews for both Summicron lenses though however. Very new to the Leica ecosystem so any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

This COVID19 season has given me reason to finally work on a video from our trip to Japan last October...all related to street photography. Having created this in the wee hours of the night that eventually bled into the morning last Friday, I am still content with it despite its imperfections; some clips are shaky, I could've shown the photos for a longer duration. Watching this reminds me how simple life was prior to COVID, where human interaction was carefree, and I strongly yearn for times like this again. I would greatly appreciate it if you would indulge me for a couple of minutes of your time. Even more so if you have any comments/critiques as well. Last but definitely not the least, would love to give a big shoutout to my wife for letting me out on the streets from 10pm-2am to capture these moments as she tends to the kids at night.

My first post, so correct me if there are any issues. I tried to post under M10 but couldn't find a category for accessories. LeicaRumors.com posted about a modular grip for the M10 line and another for the M11 from IDS (Initial Design Studios). The design looks appealing, especially since on the M10 line it appears to give access to the battery and memory card by substituting the base plate with theirs which has a fold-down door. It also has three choices of grip pads and a modular ARCA rail. The site looks legitimate. However there are no comments on the few YouTube videos and no references to reviews. Has anyone had any experience ordering from them, and if so, how was it and what's your opinion of the grip system? I'm personally looking for one for an M10 Monochrom.