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Found 24 results

  1. Hallo, ich interessiere mich aktuell für das Nokton Classic 40mm f 1.4 Leica M. Welcher Sucherrahmen wird eingeblendet, wenn ich das Objektiv anschließe. 35 oder 50. Ich danke vorab für das Interesse. Gruß Ralf -- www.ralfhaun.de
  2. With up to $1000 budget, which one would you buy to use and keep? M2, M3 or M4 And are there variations to watch for or watch out for? Also, which starter lens? Thanks J
  3. Guest

    "Neue" Kamera - Leica M3

    Hallo zusammen, da ich mich über meine Neuerwerbung sehr freue, muss ich dies hier kund tun. Ich habe zuletzt etliche Jahre mit einer Leica X1 fotografiert, dann bin ich vor 5 Jahren auf eine M9 umgestiegen. Damit fotografiere ich regelmäßig und es macht mir eine Menge Spaß. Als Erbstück von meinen Eltern (meine Mutter war Fotografin) habe ich eine Leica IIIc (Baujahr 1949) mit einem Summitar (von 1951) 5 cm, 1:2, die sich - damit Objektiv - in einem sehr schönen und voll funktionsfähigen Zustand befindet. Damit habe ich in den letzten Wochen 2 Filme belichtet, um zu sehen, ob ich überhaupt noch analog und jede Automatik fotografieren kann. Es hat funktioniert. Da die Schraubleica nicht wirklich einfach in der Handhabung ist (Sucherfenster und Entfernungsmesser separat) habe ich über die Anschaffung einer M3 oder M2 nachgedacht. Für die M3 spricht, dass Sie über einen besonders großen Fenster verfügt. Für die M2 sprach ihr Aussehen (sehr schlicht - sehr schön) und die Tatsache, dass man mit ihr problemlos ein 35 mm Objektiv nutzen kann. Nun ist es eine M3 - Kauf per Ebay (trotz grundsätzlicher Bedenken) geworden und ich kann meine Leica-Optiken (meistgenutzt: 50 mm) für den Oldtimer nutzen. Ich bin gespannt darauf, sie in der Hand zu halten und den ersten Film zurück zu erhalten. Beste Grüße Dieter M.
  4. In this video I will show you how to load the film in the Leica M2 and Leica M3, the procedure requires a minimum of time and precision but it is not difficult, follow the instructions carefully and you will have no problems. https://youtu.be/7xw2Zk8tjjA
  5. Hey everyone, I just got my m2 off ebay and had a look through the viewfinder only to see 2 main very noticeable spots. I attached a picture and the one on the lower left looks much dimmer and looks like a dot and a hair almost? It's kind of light greyish and I think it's a particle or dust but I'm not quite sure. However, in the middle the speck seems much darker (basically black) and more prominent. Could this be separation or is it another speckle of dust (imo it doesn't seem like one). If this has happened to you or you know what it is, any input on how to fix or your thoughts would would be greatly appreciated! Also the shutter curtain on the front seems a little pushed forward and I can see the whole seam on it, is that normal? The curtain works 100% fine but I'm not sure if Im supposed to see the whole seam and overlap of the two curtains. On the back it stays slightly open by 1mm or so (didn't include a pic sorry)... should it cause a light leak? The camera was also recently CLA'd. Lastly, the viewfinder has some "gold specks" which I think is separation, but I hope i'm wrong. Please help if you can clarify, recommend a fix, or give any thoughts on ^^. Overall the camera seems amazing and none of the things I mentioned has really bothered me, but if I can learn more about them then it would be great. Thanks in advance, Ashley
  6. Hallo, ich bin gerade dabei mir für einen längeren Auslandsaufenthalt in Neuseeland eine Leica M zuzulegen, der Body wird wahrscheinlich eine M2 (ca. 500€) von Meiers Fotobörse, da ich mir die dort noch leisten kann (bin noch Schüler). Mir fehlt dann nur noch ein Objektiv, am Besten ein 50mm oder ein 35mm Objektiv. Auch hier ist mein Budget eher niedrig (~300€ +-), daher hatte ich an ein 7Artisans 35mm f/2 (nichts für Puristen), ein Voigtländer Color Skopar 35mm f/2,5 (ein bisschen über dem Budget), Summicron 40mm f/2 (passt gerade so mit den Framelines) oder sogar ein Jupiter 8 50mm f/2 mit Adapter gedacht (damit hatte ich schlechte Erfahrungen bisher). Welche Linse bietet sich da am Besten an? Habt ihr noch andere Vorschläge? Ich bin kein Purist, also ist mir die Marke egal. Ist es vielleicht sogar am Besten, wenn ich nur bei 40mm bleibe, mir eine Leica CL trotz der geringen Messucherbasis zuzulegen? Oder macht das überhaupt gar keinen Sinn hier bei einem solchen Budget zu investieren? Danke für eure Hilfe! P.S. Ich habe zwar bereits eine Fm2n, die will ich verkaufen, da mir die Ergonomie und der Stil einer Leica besser gefällt und diese kompakter ist? Ich hatte sogar schon an eine Pen FT gedacht, da sie vom Design her einer Leica ebenbürtig ist und ich die kreativen Möglichkeiten sowie die 72 Bilder pro Film sehr ansprechen finde, anderseits ist Halbformat eben sehr klein..
  7. Leica has announced a camera with "Digital Body. Analog Soul." in M10-D. I would rather prefer "Analog Body, Digital Help". Digital help as in scanned digital files, capturing and applying EXIF and GEO data and of course sharing and printing digitally. This has been my preference lately, rather than trying to go the other way (M10-D way with faux lever and artificially restricting digital advantages). What do you think?
  8. Just because I had 135 Tele-Elmar lying around, I used it on my M2. For framing I guessed based on central patch (it seems patch is 1/3rd the size) by comparing the framing against M240. I am not sure whether it will work. The film is still in the camera. I shot some closeup shots (5ft) as well to test focusing accuracy. Maybe in couple of weeks I will know. Has anyone tried this. Does it work?
  9. Hello, I recently acquired two Leica M cameras from an auction. One is a M3, the other is a M2. They both are cosmetically in pretty nice condition, but the viewfinder on each seems to have an issue. The M3 seems like it may have some separation going on and the focusing patch seems pretty dim. The frame lines for the 90mm seems permanently visible as well. The M2 has what looks like dark spot inside the viewfinder—I'm not sure that this could be. When you looks through the viewfinder it still seems bright and the patch is clearly visible. I'm wondering if anyone can help identify the issue and also let me know if you think it can be fixed. Other than the viewfinders, the cameras seems in really great shape. Hopefully a CLA can clear things up, or a recement. Thanks! Ross
  10. I finally joined the forum so I can view the attached pictures you all have been posting, be it gear or photographs! What great pictures, thank you! Definitely worth signing up just for that. On to myself, my name is Patrick and I live near Washington, DC. I got bit by the rangefinder bug about a year ago, and I finally hit the Leica stage. I picked up a Leica M2 and had a CLA done by Youxin Ye. I never knew split images could be so bright! Before, I had a Canonet 28, Yashica MG-1, and a Zorki 4 with a Jupiter 8. I am really loving shooting film, especially black and white. I feel as if I am becoming one with the camera! I have started developing on my own rolls and it's satisfying and relieving! I find it relieving because I can get my black and white rolls developed anytime I want in my own house! If you want to take a look at my work, check out my tumblr and my personal blog. I am excited to share my Leica experience with everyone. I am equally excited to absorb the wealth of knowledge and experience contained here!
  11. Here are som photos from my New York trip earlier this year. This is the first rolls from my new Leica M2 with a Summicron 35. Feel free to leave a comment!
  12. payasam

    Soon to be 3

    This little one, the daughter of a niece, will turn 3 in September. I have been fortunate to have photographed her since she was just a couple of months old. The first is with a 35mm Ultron and the second is with a 90mm Elmarit.
  13. This man, Ahmed, is employed as a car driver. He asked me to take a photo of him. I tried without success to tell him to wait for a day or two as it was obvious that he had just dyed his hair.
  14. I have recently been told that the earlier M2's (sub 1mn serial numbers produced in the initial couple of years from 1958) with button rewind have different rangefinder mechanics/setting of frames (not framelines) and shutter break which make them inferior in general and more expensive/difficult to repair than later 1mn+ serial number M2's with lever rewind and self-timer (I was told that the same statement holds true for earlier double stroke M3's vs. later single stroke M3's. I am wondering if a lot of people share this opinion and whether there is a clear and undisputed preference towards later models (although generally speaking later models by default would have gone through any tweaking process from the earlier models). I also ask whether anyone in this forum has had a bad experience with sub-1mn serial number M2's. Thanks.
  15. Don'tknowmuch

    Sink

    [attach]141656[/attach] Hope you like it, Jim.
  16. Don't often post here - more of a landscaper person! Charcoal burning in Sussex, England. [ATTACH]141654[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]141655[/ATTACH]
  17. Recently returned from a grey and wet holiday on Skye. However - nothing wrong with that if one has the waterproofs! We stay in a cottage with all this directly outside the window - just us, no other houses in sight. [ATTACH]141644[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]141643[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]141641[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]141646[/ATTACH] FP4 in ID11 ok, but I think I'm heading back to Tri-X and HC110.
  18. Hallo erstmal, ich bin seit Dezember stolzer Besitzer einer M2. Zunehmend interessiert mich die Blitzfotografie, also habe ich kürzlich einen Blitznippel gekauft, um meinen Stabblitz von Braun (LZ 42) an ihr betreiben zu können. Natürlich wird der Blitz nicht gezündet... Alles überprüft, alles scheint in Ordnung. Also kurzum den Blitz an meine Minolta XD-7 und Zorki 4K angeschlossen. Kein Fehler, der Blitz löst wunderbar aus. Sogar bei lasch eingestecktem Kabel. Drücke ich den Stecker vom Blitz, mit Kraft Richtung Blitzbuchse, löst der Blitz bei meiner M2 auch aus. Wieso tut er das nicht ohne Kraftaufwand? Ich muss mich schließlich darauf verlassen können, dass alles funktioniert. Bei meiner Olympus 35 RC übrigens das gleiche Problem. -> Blitz löst nur bei Druck gegen den Synch-Kontakt aus. Lieben Gruß Tobi PS: Mir ist von Nikon der AS-15 Blitzadapter aufgefallen. Um das Kabel nicht ständig zu belasten wäre es doch sinnvoll, diesen auf den Blitzschuh zu setzen und mit dem Synch Kontakt der Kamera zu verbinden, und den Blitz selbst über den Blitzschuh laufen zu lassen. Wäre dies sinnvoll? Ich plane den Blitz überwiegend entfesselt zu benutzen.
  19. Guten Abend, wollte mal fragen, ob es bei einer M2 normal ist, dass beim Bildzähler immer nur z.B. Bild Nr. 22 1/2 angezeigt wird . Wenn nein, wie kann man den Zähler richtig einstellen?
  20. Recent snow in Southern England was the heaviest we've had for a long, long time. All three photos M2|Summaron 2.8|HP5|neat Perceptol [ATTACH]234941[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]234942[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]234943[/ATTACH] Hope you like them, Jim.
  21. These two pictures were taken with my M2. They were taken with different lenses (CV 25/4 and Summicron 40) and were developed at different labs. My question is: just what is that dark stripe at the top? Those dark stripes are also quite obvious on the negatives. I don't know what the problem is, someone please help. Thanks.
  22. Hello everyone. I'm really new here, so I apologize if I posted this in the wrong forum. I got myself a Leica M2 from '62 (checked the serial number) with an MR4 and a Nippon Kogaku 5cm 1:2 H-C lens. Everything is in great shape, the camera just has a few scratch marks from years of use, but whats really confusing me is the lens. The lens focuses accurately, except the rangefinder window in the viewfinder that tells me whats in focus doesn't move when I hit the 3.4 ft mark. So from 1.5 to 3.4 ft, I have no confirmation if the image is in focus. I fiddled around, and opened the pressure plate, set the camera at B and checked the focus mechanism, and I found that the pivot arm hits the back of the lens mount and doesn't move forward when the camera is focused at 3.4 ft. I found that rather strange for an LTM lens... Anyone heard of anything similar? I've been trying to find an answer but no luck so far. Also, anyone recommends a way to clean the haze of an internal element of the lens? Thanks!
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