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Found 8 results

  1. For some reason, the shutter speed shown on the LCD screen is 1 or 2 stops slower than the shutter speed that I have selected. For example, at this second I have 1/15 on the knob, but my LCD screen says 1/15. I now just shut the camera off, and turned it back on - the shutter speed on the knob is now matching up to the LCD screen. Fast forward after taking 3 shots, and have switched my shutter speed to 1/125, but 1/60 is being display. As confirmation, after the photo is taken, the shutter speed that was taken into account is the one that is on the LCD screen. Help?
  2. I have somehow managed to get a little condensation behind the protective glass for the LCD screen. I've never applied one of these protective screens myself before, but would like to remove it as it's a little annoying. Any suggestions/best practices other than just ignore it? 😉 Thanks!
  3. Hi, having bought a 2nd hand M8 + 28/2.8 Elmarit days ago, and being extremely satisfied with it, I would like to introduce myself. I am a professional photographer since the 70's, working mainly outdoors (architecture and landscape), with view cameras (6x12, 4x5, 8x10) and B&W. I used a Fuji 6x9 (a RF with a 90mm), handheld, as a sort of 'point & shoot' camera. With the advent of dig photogr. I began using years ago the 5D with 24 and 45 TS lenses, and colour, and am very satisfied with it. The D-Lux 4 was giving me big pleasure, but was not exactly what I wanted. Only with the M8 I'm having again the incredible feeling I had with the 6x9 Fuji RF. In the last 2 days I have been reading through many threads in this forum, and I am impressed by the collective knowledge and helpfulness present in this group. So I want to ask you if it is normal that on the M8's LCD a yellowish and very pale and very soft rectangle appears, only visible when the picture is a light and homogenous color (the blue sky and with no clouds overexposed, for instance). It is the perimeter of a rectangle, in the centre of the screen. On the picture there is nothing like that, of course! Since the camera has a 12 month garantee, I have time to ask for a repair or a refund. I will very much appreciate any help! Thank you in advance! Manolo Laguillo
  4. In an effort to protect my M8 LCD screen I applied one of those flex plastic cut to size protectors - worked great after all air bubbles were gently extracted - but when time came for replacement it stuck so well (and I was impatient) that it pulled the LCD protector out of it's bezel. I noticed two or three tiny glue (Leica glue!) spots in corners that apparently held this "high quality" plastic (?) in place - but now i'm afraid it'll pop out (has once). Of course I won't apply any old glue back here - been reading nightmare stories about chemical reactions, cryo..., crazy glue vapor, etc. Leica USA smiles benignly and is no help ( can't have camera gone for 3-4 weeks). If all else fails I'll drop off at local repairer (L.A.) but that's a week or so for something so simple. Could anyone please recommend a course of action (or a brand of glue?) Thank You - and Happy Holidays everyone.
  5. I have the LCD set for maximum brightness (+3) from the Setup menu. I also have the LCD mode set for the "box with a star" (as opposed to box with star and "off" or box with a star and an "A"), under which "The monitor becomes easier to see (brighter, e.g. for outdoors) per the manual. Outside in bright sunlight I have trouble seeing the image in the LCD. However, when I depress the shutter half way, it brightens considerably so I can see the image, just before the focus sets and then it dims again. Is there any way to keep the brightest LCD image all the time? BGreig
  6. Hi guys, I am new to this forum and I would like to share a modification that I did to my Panasonic LC1 last night. Some of you might find it useful, so here it is. From my film days and with my other digital cameras (R1 & 30D), I got used to shooting in 3:2 aspect ratio (which I find much more appealing). However, my newly acquired LC1 doesn't allow me to do that, reminds the whole thing into guesswork. After taking few photos, I noticed that if I cropped the 4:3 image the whole composition was going astray. So I decided to put some sort of guidelines on the LCD. I tried putting two lines on the LCD window with a permanent felt pen. No, it didn't help, you need to look straight to make sure they appear in correct positions. So I decided to put them between the TFT unit and glass cover. I could have marked the TFT using a pen, but I thought the fine machinery of the camera would request something more of a 'steampunk' style. So I chose to put thin wires. :-) Here is the final result: Here is a flickr set that I created, describing the process: Panasonic LC1 LCD aspect ratio guide hack... - a set on Flickr And here is another flickr set that I created earlier, describing the total strip down process for LC1/D2: Panasonic LC1 Disassembly - a set on Flickr Hope you'll enjoy them... K.
  7. tommm

    Light metering

    Can anyone with an X1 in hand help with Q about the light metering? There's spot, centre weighted and 'intelligent', 'multiple' - what are these last two and how do they perform? Are there any visual displays of the metering area in the LCD display options? And can you fix the meter reading with a shutter half press?
  8. regardless of RF or DSLR, there is grease mark on LCD. I hate the smell days later if I forgot to wipe it. For the same reason I don't like people touch my cameras... I use right eye to focus which should be better than lefty. I've tried to rotate my head clockwise to avoid touchy touchy but weird becoz I use both eyes. I have a diopter + prescription on the M already but my nose is still touching the LCD. I'm thinking to add a larger eyecup that can push my face away a little which I haven't tired yet but would it work? P.S. It's not an extreme case, my nose is normal to medium size. =P
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