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Showing results for tags 'lcd'.
Found 17 results
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This happened to me twice the other day. I switched on the SL with the Vario-Elmarit. No picture could be seen on the screen but there was the virtual horizon moving and the information around the screen including aperture and time, if accurate i do not know. For Sweden it was a nice warm day, 23°C. The camera had been lying in the boot of my ACed car. Switching of, removing the battery did not help until eventually. In a while the fault was repeated. Now the LS seems to be working fine again. This failure I think was due to heated sensor. Have you who use the LS in warmer surroundings had this problem? /Eric
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My M8 LCD stopped showing anything. Leica Germany sent this back to me as it was not possible to fix as same to many other users have malfunction LCD display. (Also I was offered upgrade to M-P) It still take great pictures, setting was still same to what i want it to be so i would still use it. However, once it is back from attempt of repairing in Leica, time setting on camera was about 21 days and some hours off. As I know many of user have damaged LCD, are there any way to access to menu and adjust time?
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Dear all, I've noticed recently that when I set EVF-LCD on Auto the EVF doesn't work when I lift the camera to my eye. When I lower it, the LCD works fine, so the proximity sensor isn't an issue. Selecting EVF only mode I can see my subject. Then when I select EVF extended mode EVF is black again. In LCD mode the LCD screen works fine. If my memory doesn't err this appeared after upgrading to FW v2, however it's still there after upgrading to FW v2.1... I could not find similar topic in the forum, so should I take her to the doctor? She's only 11 months old... Thank you in advance
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Hello all. My Leica Q of two years all of the sudden shows a pretty severe Purple / Greenish tint to everything through the back LCD, but not in the EVF or the actual photo files. The issue popped up out of nowhere after a flight, and I've done everything I can on my end to fix it but nothing has worked. Anyone else have a similar experience? Really trying to avoid sending this thing in for however much that will cost to fix. Firmware is up to date. The photos attached are the difference between the back LCD and the EVF (Which has normal color). Apologies for the bunk iPhone photos but at least you can see the difference in color.
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regardless of RF or DSLR, there is grease mark on LCD. I hate the smell days later if I forgot to wipe it. For the same reason I don't like people touch my cameras... I use right eye to focus which should be better than lefty. I've tried to rotate my head clockwise to avoid touchy touchy but weird becoz I use both eyes. I have a diopter + prescription on the M already but my nose is still touching the LCD. I'm thinking to add a larger eyecup that can push my face away a little which I haven't tired yet but would it work? P.S. It's not an extreme case, my nose is normal to medium size. =P
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I have somehow managed to get a little condensation behind the protective glass for the LCD screen. I've never applied one of these protective screens myself before, but would like to remove it as it's a little annoying. Any suggestions/best practices other than just ignore it? 😉 Thanks!
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I have a couple questions for those who have owned or had experience with the T and TL bodies. I realize this has been discussed in other threads, but I’m hoping for a little more insight. Even when auto review is turned off on my T body, the captured image lingers on the screen for a second (the equivalent of "blackout" on other cameras), prohibiting me from immediately composing my next shot. I admit that's not a lot of time, but it can have an impact on my shooting workflow. So my questions are 1) do the TL and TL2 also have this issue, and 2) does using a faster memory card decrease the time it takes for the monitor to become live again? For reference, I'm using a Panasonic SDHC Class 10 UHS-3 card with a 45 MB/s write time, and I'm shooting RAW (DNG) with 1.8 MB jpeg files. The T has no option for shooting DNG only, unfortunately. -
Hi all, I"m considering buying a Leica TL2 which I want to use to take photos in the same way that I do with my IPhone for street photography. That is, touch screen focus only and most of the time I use burst mode to be able to nail the shot in terms of people moving into the scene. Questions: 1. Is the quality of the LCD on the TL2 comparable to a smartphone (I'm using an Iphone 7 plus currently)? 2. Does the TL2 have a 'continuous shooting' option or only single shot? I couldn't find this in the specs. 3. Can you program the camera to choose the focus point and take the shot simultaneously by a single tap on the screen? Or do you have to tap on screen to choose focus point and then press shutter button? 4. Is the AF fast enough for street photography? 5. I would be buying this camera with the new pancake 18mm lens. Would I be able to get maximum depth of field with this combo, as with a smartphone? That is, I want everything to be completely and equally in focus from foreground to background. I do not want shallow depth of field. I have looked at other cameras (Sony, Fuji etc) but the larger LCD screen is the main attraction with this camera so that it is similar to an iphone experience but better image quality. Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance. Parasko
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I just made a firmware upgrade on my less than 1y old and barely used M246 (I completely lost the mojo on the MM after having had to swap my MM to the inferior M246). Granted I use the LCD very, very little if at all (changing ISO, formatting SD cards and correcting the internal clock are pretty much the only times when I use the LCD). So I never noticed any issue with the LCD - I just never use it enough. When I started the firmware update procedure (firmware file on SD card, switching the camera on while holding the "info" button), I noticed a green colored surrounding on the LCD screen very similar in pattern to the often reported M8 LCD "coffee stain" issues. The "rectangle shifting image" while the firmware updated made this very obvious and I could not see this issue on the youtube videos you can find showing the firmware upgrade process. Well, my camera is a German model and I will not be able to show and ask about this until the next trip to Europe - any experience with broken M246 LCD screens is very welcome. And btw - the exposure compensation nonsense in the viewfinder is still there after the firmware update? Lets see if the camera at least can keep the time in sync better than an hour glass operated by a drunk sailor after the FW update (maybe the LCD is worn out by all that time setting to correct for the miserable time keeping)?
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It seems the SL does not have a conventional shutter speed dial. (Although you have to download the brochure to have a good look; I can find no pictures showing the camera from all sides in the video presentation. Style over information?) Instead, I guess you have to flick the dial and set the speed either by looking in the finder or on the LCD (top or backplate). Why? What's wrong with the old-style shutter speed dial? Some other camera manufacturers (Fuji, Nikon) have gone back to this tried and true system for some cameras. This iconic design was invented by Oskar Barnack and used on the very first Leica camera. Shutter speeds marked on a top-plate dial, apertures around the lens. What could be simpler? Leica ditched this proven ergonomic design for the T camera, favoring a smartphone interface instead. Now, with the SL, it looks like unadorned controls have been chosen to look cleaner and smoother. The Oly OM-D models have a similar looking dial with no markings. But is this just style over function? I wonder just what makes this new design so much better? Perhaps someone will say it's much faster or that it makes little difference in practice. I find choosing a shutter speed simply by looking at it and setting it much faster. It's a one-step process and also gives you a ready frame of reference like an analog watch. Or is that just me?
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- shutter speed dial
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Leica Q - After only 10 days i have this "problem" on rear Screen Display LCD. The Screen clicks when lightly pressed like its not glued properly. Problem is mostly on center and left side. https://youtu.be/UYRKpRCBy_E In the first days screen was ok, i have used Leica sporadically in this period and only for test's shoots in home; so no intensive. I don't know if is a normal plastic noise, but in my opinion it's strange that during the first days it was ok. Opinions or experiences !?! -
For some reason, the shutter speed shown on the LCD screen is 1 or 2 stops slower than the shutter speed that I have selected. For example, at this second I have 1/15 on the knob, but my LCD screen says 1/15. I now just shut the camera off, and turned it back on - the shutter speed on the knob is now matching up to the LCD screen. Fast forward after taking 3 shots, and have switched my shutter speed to 1/125, but 1/60 is being display. As confirmation, after the photo is taken, the shutter speed that was taken into account is the one that is on the LCD screen. Help?
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Can anyone with an X1 in hand help with Q about the light metering? There's spot, centre weighted and 'intelligent', 'multiple' - what are these last two and how do they perform? Are there any visual displays of the metering area in the LCD display options? And can you fix the meter reading with a shutter half press?
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Hi, having bought a 2nd hand M8 + 28/2.8 Elmarit days ago, and being extremely satisfied with it, I would like to introduce myself. I am a professional photographer since the 70's, working mainly outdoors (architecture and landscape), with view cameras (6x12, 4x5, 8x10) and B&W. I used a Fuji 6x9 (a RF with a 90mm), handheld, as a sort of 'point & shoot' camera. With the advent of dig photogr. I began using years ago the 5D with 24 and 45 TS lenses, and colour, and am very satisfied with it. The D-Lux 4 was giving me big pleasure, but was not exactly what I wanted. Only with the M8 I'm having again the incredible feeling I had with the 6x9 Fuji RF. In the last 2 days I have been reading through many threads in this forum, and I am impressed by the collective knowledge and helpfulness present in this group. So I want to ask you if it is normal that on the M8's LCD a yellowish and very pale and very soft rectangle appears, only visible when the picture is a light and homogenous color (the blue sky and with no clouds overexposed, for instance). It is the perimeter of a rectangle, in the centre of the screen. On the picture there is nothing like that, of course! Since the camera has a 12 month garantee, I have time to ask for a repair or a refund. I will very much appreciate any help! Thank you in advance! Manolo Laguillo
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In an effort to protect my M8 LCD screen I applied one of those flex plastic cut to size protectors - worked great after all air bubbles were gently extracted - but when time came for replacement it stuck so well (and I was impatient) that it pulled the LCD protector out of it's bezel. I noticed two or three tiny glue (Leica glue!) spots in corners that apparently held this "high quality" plastic (?) in place - but now i'm afraid it'll pop out (has once). Of course I won't apply any old glue back here - been reading nightmare stories about chemical reactions, cryo..., crazy glue vapor, etc. Leica USA smiles benignly and is no help ( can't have camera gone for 3-4 weeks). If all else fails I'll drop off at local repairer (L.A.) but that's a week or so for something so simple. Could anyone please recommend a course of action (or a brand of glue?) Thank You - and Happy Holidays everyone.
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Hi guys, I am new to this forum and I would like to share a modification that I did to my Panasonic LC1 last night. Some of you might find it useful, so here it is. From my film days and with my other digital cameras (R1 & 30D), I got used to shooting in 3:2 aspect ratio (which I find much more appealing). However, my newly acquired LC1 doesn't allow me to do that, reminds the whole thing into guesswork. After taking few photos, I noticed that if I cropped the 4:3 image the whole composition was going astray. So I decided to put some sort of guidelines on the LCD. I tried putting two lines on the LCD window with a permanent felt pen. No, it didn't help, you need to look straight to make sure they appear in correct positions. So I decided to put them between the TFT unit and glass cover. I could have marked the TFT using a pen, but I thought the fine machinery of the camera would request something more of a 'steampunk' style. So I chose to put thin wires. :-) Here is the final result: Here is a flickr set that I created, describing the process: Panasonic LC1 LCD aspect ratio guide hack... - a set on Flickr And here is another flickr set that I created earlier, describing the total strip down process for LC1/D2: Panasonic LC1 Disassembly - a set on Flickr Hope you'll enjoy them... K.
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I have the LCD set for maximum brightness (+3) from the Setup menu. I also have the LCD mode set for the "box with a star" (as opposed to box with star and "off" or box with a star and an "A"), under which "The monitor becomes easier to see (brighter, e.g. for outdoors) per the manual. Outside in bright sunlight I have trouble seeing the image in the LCD. However, when I depress the shutter half way, it brightens considerably so I can see the image, just before the focus sets and then it dims again. Is there any way to keep the brightest LCD image all the time? BGreig
