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Found 16 results

  1. Hello, I have found expired ORWO reversal, greyscale double 8mm film from 1967/1968 It has been subject to harsh conditions of heat/ bad storage etc For these image stills shared here, i have been hand-processing the films with D94 chemistry, re-expose them in Cairo's sun for minutes, then using D94 as a second developer without fixing the image (hence all silver halide should be consumed at the last step) I have the following questions: 1) Could you help identify the cracks/wrinkles? 2) Some of the results seemed really good at the re-exposure process (image attached), but then turned out less contrasty at the end results- do you have an idea why? 3) Do you have extra general tips on how to get better results/ clearer images/ better contrast etc? Thank you very so much in advance
  2. Hello, actually on a trip in London , m’y m10 rangefinder suddenly stop coupling with my lenses. in fact, the little wheel wich get contact with the lens stays blocked on the infini. If I put it in thé right direction I can feel itsabnormaly hard to move. what happened ? CAN Ifix it by myself -? Is there a place in London where it could be fixed ? thank you for your help
  3. Hi I have just came back from a trip where i used my Q2 for the first time massively and when i am importing the color are just becoming totally off. I tried the trial of Lightroom CC Classic and it definitely can show the right color. See below screenshots. There were no adjustment made at all in all case. Anyone having similar color issue with the perpetual version of Lightroom ? Many thanks
  4. Hi everyone, I've encounter a strange "bug" with my M2 I took a shot, then cocked the shutter so i would be ready for the next shot, but I didnt fire right away but let it be. When I took the next shot after some times, the shutter speed seems to be slower than the speed indicate in the shutter speed dial I make some test shots at 1/125 and 1/60, cocked the shutter, wait for couple of minute, then click the button. When the m2 fire, i believe it was fired at 1/15 or 1/8 I took one more test at 1/8, wait 3 minutes then fire, the shutter speed then fired at 1/4. The more i'd wait, the slower the speed. For example, 1 minute then it was slowered by 1 speed, 3 minutes for 3 speed... (not exact numbers) I've also tested to change the speed before/after advance the level, and before/after waiting for the next frame. But it seemed that the problem still remained I didn't have any trouble with the machine when clicked the button right after I cocked the shutter, but i really want to be always ready for the next frame. Have anyone encountered the same problem? Is there anyway to fix it?
  5. Hello everyone ! I just noticed that I have traces of wear on the hot shoe connectors of my leica Q2. I have used it only very rarely and with leica flashes. Has anyone noticed the same thing? Do I have to worry about it? Everything works very well but I still find it weird .. Thanks for your help !
  6. Hello everyone! I'm new here, nice to meet you. It's a little bit of a let down to see the M10 doesn't have a "real" BULB mode but it's limited to 125s. Similar to the Leica Q... It's also weird that the time is ISO dependent. I was wondering, why is that? The SL gets to 30min for example or the D810 can up to 1h30min and beyond i T mode. Thanks for your time, Tomas.
  7. I just got my black chrome 50mm Summilux ASPH (11688). As a number of people who have received their lens have pointed out in this thread http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/242441-new-35-cron-and-50-lux-available-in-black-chrome/, the hood won't fit over numerous E43 filters people have tried. I tried with my Carl Zeiss E43 UVa filter, which attaches to the lens just fine, and in this case the hood also won't fit. I thought I would illustrate the problem for two reasons: 1. As a warning, should this affect any purchase decisions. It would seem a normal E43 filter and the supplied hood cannot be used at the same time. But also... 2. to solicit advice from people less mechanically-challenged than me! Perhaps I'm just not doing this right, and there is actually a solution. Please help! Okay, here are the pictures to illustrate this problem - Note the female groove at the top of the lens barrel. The hood has squeeze tabs to pull these grips flush with the lens. The hood has a male groove that stops the hood being lowered any further than this groove. Releasing the tabs moves the grips back out and they clamp onto the female groove on the lens. Attaching this filter (and I presume many others) does not cause a problem with the overall circumference to clear. This one is perfectly flush with the lens barrel. Here is the hood affixed without the filter. Note the height. Here is the hood affixed with the filter. The extra height created by the filter prevents the grips from reaching the female groove on the lens barrel. It has no grip at all really and would come off at the slightest bump. The issue then is one of height. I'm not sure if any filter will be thin enough to avoid this problem. Thoughts...? What am I missing here?
  8. What newer cards are reliable ? I lost 1/2 a shoot for the 3rd time this year. I am getting a bit paranoid because Lexar image rescue5 could not recover any of the files even after several attempts. While shooting I always randomly check on the LCD but then there is nothing on the card - how is that even possible ?
  9. Hi guys, I bought an M-P last April, and I have been using it ever since, no problem at all. But last Monday, when I was out shooting photos with it, I noticed one strange thing, after I captured a photo, I pressed the "Play" Button to view it, however, that photo was automatically zoomed in, as if I had moved the thumb wheel, but I didn't do that obviously. I don't remember if I ever put my thumb on the thumb wheel, but I was pretty sure I didn't move it. And it occurred only once, I have done some shooting the following day too, but nothing happened. So have you guys encountered the same issue? What could be the reason behind it? I sweater often when I'm holding the camera, so could the sweater somehow got into the thumb wheel and caused it to automatically move? Or was is it some CMOS or systematic issue?
  10. Hi! I recently purchased a used Leica Q manufactured early 2018. When I try shooting in night, both "low iso + long exposure", and "high iso + short exposure" captured in DNG file shows annoying banding, and even some unwanted color points, like the images shown below. Is this a native camera issue? Or this camera sensor is defected : (
  11. I posted this in firmware update thread without reply. I think it is better to start a new thread for this as I feel this is one of more serious bugs for me personally. If I want to shoot multiple frames with locked exposure in aperture priority mode, in the past, I just need half press shutter and keep it pressed and shooting. Because there is no option to enable or disable half press shutter lock exposure for Leica M. (Many other camera let you select this as option), this is especially important. I will pick two scenarios why this is important. Stitch frame: you want lock the exposure and keep exposure consistent when you do panned shots. For M11, you can only have two shot with exposure locked because after first image, the meter relock the scene right away, but after 2nd image, the meter reevaluate and re-lock again. If you took 5 image stitch, first two will have the same exposure, #3&4 have another, and #5 will be another exposure. (assume light conditions are different for each frame) Assume you take backlight portrait, you might want lock exposure by point camera down to avoid meter for highlight, (you can decide how to meter the image based on scene without using manual mode, it could be trying to overexposure or under exposure but you get my idea) Then you take the images, but you try to get a better expression, or the last one subject eyes were closed, you want keep your shutter half pressed to fire right way with original locked exposure. With M11, you can't. It will evaluate the exposure again with that backlight condition. Can you guys check if this is my camera issue or M11 issue? I tried E shutter, mechanical shutter, LV/EVF on, LV/EVF off, none of them make any difference. Any help will be welcome.
  12. I recently purchased a Leica M6 TTL second hand (SN 246914 if it's helpful) and I've been loving it but having ongoing and difficult to resolve issues with some horizontal markings even after multiple repairs and I am really hoping someone here is able to provide some insight into how I can resolve this problem. Initially, the effect was quite bad and had some big distortion on the whole left hand side of the frame even in not particularly bright scenes. As there are a few samples and the photos are larger than the file limit, I've placed them all in a dropbox link here (see before_repair images). Seeing this, I discussed the issues with the previous owner who was very helpful, but had not seen the issues at all when he was shooting with it previously. He also hadn't been using the camera very much in the lead up to him selling it. I took the camera to Camera Clinic for repairs in Melbourne. The report from this repair entailed the technician 'straightening the distorted shutte light traps. adjust the shutter speeds. re-assemble and test'. After these repairs the effect was greatly reduced, however, I still noticed that there were some issues when shooting into bright light in particular (see after_first_repair images in the dropbox). Keen to get the issue fully resolved I took it back to Camera Clinic and discussed the issue with the technician. His theory was that the metal on the interior frame edges may have been partially removed so bright scenes cause reflected light off the frame edges resulting in the marks. Accordingly, he 'applied a dark mask to the frame edge' in the second repair. Unfortunately when I was shooting in bright scenes again I noticed that the issue was still occuring much to my dismay (see after_second_repair image). I really love this camera and I am super excited to keep using but before I have some long stints of travel and shooting I'd really love to get the camera in full working order, especially as I am often shooting in bright scenes. If there is any insight or help anyone is able to provide in fixing the problem it woud be greatly appreciated! I'm very happy to provide any extra photos or details if it helps in diagnosing the issue as well Cheers for reading, Josh
  13. Dear all, I bought the "reporter edition" of M10-P about 5 months ago. And it constantly has freezing issue. For the past few weeks, it's just been way too often, like 1 out 2 days it would freeze. I always turn the EV on when I'm shooting, and before it's about to freeze, the EV looks like it's having dropped frames, pretty lagging and then it would freeze, so I have to take the battery out and restart the camera. And many times it just freezes after I turn the camera on, I don't even get to press the shutter. Yesterday, I went out shooting and it froze again, but this time, after I restarted the camera like I always did, I found that the screen got a dark horizontal line on the very top of it (please view the photo I uploaded). I checked the photos, it's usually without the line on them, unless the ISO is 4000 or higher, then I got part of the line (or banding?) on the left side. Is this normal? Should I send the camera in for a replacement of the CMOS or something?
  14. This loud noise appeared suddenly. I'm not sure if it has affected any other part of the camera, but I do feel like autofocus isn't working as well anymore... I've heard OIS can make sound it is normal, but this sound is NOT the same as the when i first camera. Originally it sounded crisp, now it was a gear grinding feel to it that seems.... Off... I've reseted the camera multiple times... Any insight on what to do? Camera is 2 week old. PXL_20211113_201644359.mp4
  15. Hello everyone, I am posting my first message on this forum because I have a question/issue concerning my brand new Leica Q2 I bought last week. I used the camera just once shooting in RAW, auto white balance and all the other default factory settings. Everything is fine and perfect under normal light conditions. However when I am inside and I underexpose a photo (with low ISO settings- 400 ISO more or less) purple colors appear in the shadows. If I open the RAW file on my computer and in lightroom, these purple shadows remain. I tried to change the white balance on the camera etc. but it does not change anything. It is really weird as the conditions are not extreme, the photo is slightly underexposed and the settings used are totally normal. You can find at this link 2 photo samples : you can see purple on the desk and furniture on the photo L1000288. On the photo L1000282 you can see purple on the grey wall Does anyone have an idea ? Thanks a lot for your help Wissam
  16. Has somebody bought something from LFI International ( LFI International )? What was your experience? I ordered a thumbs up from them on the April 8th and never got it. I have tried to mail them several time with no answer back. My money is gone though..
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