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Hi, is there a case for the camera (halfcase) , that I can use with the HG-DC1 grip together? my search only points to the case with integrated grip …. has anybody found such thing ? cheers Peter

Hey , I just saw this and had to share it…. https://leicarumors.com/2024/01/07/new-really-right-stuff-custom-l-plate-with-grip-for-leica-q3-cameras.aspx/ if this would be included in a half case , it would be perfect. I wonder why Leica is not interested in making the best additional tools …. the wireless handgrip is ok , but for every sd card > change every battery (if you need energy) > change (screw) and worst of all > they anticipated a arca Swiss mount > but no …. Does not fit and you need another screw …. so really right stuff , pls keep on making cool stuff … cheers

I just added the Leica grip, and two days later, the Q3 battery is drained. I recharge it, the scenario repeats. I remove the grip, repeat the process. The battery holds the charge normally. I added a thin PVC pad between the camera contacts and the grip base. No more issues, but no more wireless charging! Is there a solution to restore normal 100% Leica device functionality?

Hi, The R8 I purchased on eBay came with the motor and that's great. I would, however, like to get the standard battery compartment for the R8 for times when I don't want the extra weight. Can anyone recommend a source for this part? I have been in touch with Dave Elwell of Leica Camera in NJ and he says there are no such parts in stock in the US or Germany. Thanks in advance, Danny dszpiro@gmail.com

The discontinued Leica Motor M 14408, a very nice little grinding machine with a low torque that does not knock out one of your fillings each time you hit the shutter button of your analog M (unlike the good old bulky 14214 winder pressed against the face), has a well documented weak spot between the grip and the winder housing. The grip handle has been known to come loose and cause your camera to drop. It is easily noticed — the grip handle starts wobbling and eventually disengages. Mine came slightly wobbly from the dealer (he priced it accordingly). As there is no repair manual circulating on the mighty web I have opened up the winder and found the grip handle being held in place by two screws. If you tighten these two screws you are back on track with a firm grip. If the problem persists you can use a little blue loctite on those two screws — they unfortunately represent the weakest link of the entire Portuguese assembly. I used my Phillips screwdriver heads size 000 (for body screws) and 0 (for locking mechanism/spool holder screws).

To my new Q I've added the LIM's half case with grip, which is, in one unit, equivalent to the Leica Q grip and the Leica half case, minus the screw hole for the Leica finger grip. Cost around $100. Excellent workmanship, no shortcomings at all. They have a deluxe model that integrates a very trim Arca-style plate into the bottom.

Does anyone have any Thumbs Up type of solutions that work well on the X Vario? That beautiful, heavy lens out front is leaving me with the desire for a bit more grip for my thumb. I already own the hand grip and I have a finger loop on the way, but nothing beats a thumbs up, at least in my experience. Open to any and all suggestions though - thanks.

I've tested several strap and grip combinations for carrying the Q around in shooting-ready mode: - the neck strap which comes with the camera - Leica grip and neck strap - Gordy's sling attached to either the tripod mount or the side slug and worn diagonally across body - Gordy's wrist strap only attached to the side slug - Thumbs Up grip with neck strap - Leica grip and Thumbs Up simultaneously with neck strap but for me the best solution has been the Gordy's wrist strap attached to the tripod mount in combination with the Thumbs Up -grip. With this combination I can hang the camera vertically when walking and the strap is tight enough so I can raise the camera to horizontal, or on eye level, instantly, with one hand without having to change the hand position at all. Maybe this is useful to some of you

Does anyone make one? I've trawled through these threads and the wider interwebs and it would seem not. Unless anyone here knows better?

First off, for those who have held the CL... How does it feel? ... Smooth like the T? Cold like the T? Ever so slightly padded like the Q? Do you feel the need for more grip / control?

(Apologies for the delay, but it was only last week that I was able to take a week off and really put the M10 through its paces while on vacation.) · Setup: silver M10, Leica handgrip, 28/1.4 Summilux, 64GB Sandisk card, Leica neoprene case, Adobe Lightroom on MacBook Pro. · Locations: Knott’s Berry Farm California, Universal Studios Orlando, Walt Disney World On March 3rd through March 8th, I had the opportunity to shoot the Leica M10 and 28 Summilux while on vacation in the Orlando theme parks. I had previously experimented with a couple of half-day adventures where I characterized the maximum usable ISO and metering idiosyncrasies. I was reasonably prepared to shoot for the week using one camera, one lens, one file format (DNG), and one metering method, classic-center weighted. In six days of shooting, I exposed ~1,100 frames, and only had three throw-aways in the batch, all operator errors. The M10 is a worthy successor to the Leica M digital throne, but let me give you more details to back that statement. At risk of oversimplifying the technical aspects of photography, there are a few fundamentals that if you don’t get them right, you will not get a good picture. The first of these is exposure, too much or too little light, and you have no image or no detail to work with. I am pleased to report that the classic, off-the-shutter, center-weighted metering on the M10 is reliable, controllable, repeatable, and predictable, as it is on all the other M digitals except my copy of the M262. I was happy enough with the results that I did not exercise the evaluative or spot meter options that operate through Live View. One interesting “feature” of metering is that if you turn the camera on with the cap on the lens, then take the cap off, it lags a few tenths of a second before it adjusts to the correct exposure. This caused me to take some very over-exposed shots during my test trials before the vacation. My remedy – using a Leica E49 UVa on the Summilux like a clear lens cap, and leave the actual lens cap in my pocket. As soon as I clicked on the power, the metering was settling in on the correct value immediately, and no more overexposed shots due to metering lag. I would also like to share a little bit of subjective input on the exposure latitude of the DNG files processed in Lightroom. Pushing and pulling the files to look at details in the highlight and shadow areas of mixed-lighting pictures, I find I get around +/- 2 stops of flexibility before I start to lose detail and color saturation. This is a little less than the M240/M262 generation, but still what I would consider generous. The second key enabler for photography is focus, or at least controlling focus. I found the optical rangefinder to be spot on, and pleasant to use with a little extra room around the 28mm frame lines. I did use Live View both with the on-camera screen and the Visoflex 020. Live View is useful for composing, but a little less certain for my focusing needs. I found the focus peaking to be noisy and a bit misleading at room lighting and below intensity levels, so I turned that feature off. Another handling observation, it would be good to differentiate the lens release button feel from the focus assist button on the front of the camera. With the grip attached, I hit the release button more than once and wondered why focus assist did not come up. Sensitivity is the third enabler I would like to discuss. During two pre-vacation test runs, I had the chance to try the camera from base ISO all the way to 50,000 maximum ISO. I found 50,000 ISO had streaking in the dark areas and 32,000 ISO had color fleck noise. ISO 25,000 was clean of artifacts, if a little reduced in fine-detail resolution. I programmed the M setting on my ISO dial to 25,000 and have not changed it since. Now, call me a little lazy, but I would say for 80% of the photos I shot on vacation, I set the camera to Auto ISO, Max ISO 6,400, Max Shutter 1/60 sec. The camera did a very good job of floating the ISO higher when needed, and the files from base to 6,400 were all very pleasing and usable. Chalk this combination up for two to three stops of improvement in maximum usable ISO over prior M digitals. Color Palette is the final foundational enabler to capturing an image, and the M10 scored well here too. Realizing this is a function of the image capture chip, firmware, and post-processing software, it takes a real chain of successes to deliver good color. Starting with the chip, so long as you expose within the aforementioned +/- 2 stops latitude, the information in the image file will be good. I found automatic white balance equivalent to the M240-series cameras, something that I can work well with in Lightroom, so no issues there. If I had to summarize the M10 palette, it reminds me most of VPS, Vericolor Professional Type III, from the 1980’s. Good colors with tons of tonal range. This chip and camera has the potential for being a portrait monster! (I’ll calm down now.) Now that I’ve provided discussion on the imaging potential of the M10, allow me to redirect into the practical aspects of its use. Battery life is not an issue for me – there, I said it. I had some anxiety going on vacation with one camera, one battery charge per day, but found I never used over 20% of capacity in any one day. Caveating that I do not use image review, something I learned on the M-D 262, I extrapolate that I should be able to get nearly 1,000 images per charge. An average day of snapping is 200-300 shots for me, so one battery is plenty. Actually, if I had owned two batteries, I could have skipped bringing my charger altogether, something I would never actually do. Will I buy a spare BP-SCL5? Yes, but I don’t feel it is as urgent now, and certainly not worth paying over MSRP. Let’s talk about size and grip next. As many have said, the body feels like an M7, which means that one of the larger Summilux or Noctilux lenses will feel front-heavy and a little clumsy in normal configuration. A camera show friend showed me the grip on his M10 + Noctilux and I immediately saw the benefit. I purchased the Leica grip and used it with the 28/1.4 all week long. Your right hand’s position relative to the center of gravity (CG) changes just enough to make it all a very balanced-feeling set-up. Some have questioned why the extra depth for the Leica grip, why not just the depth of the standard baseplate. I see two benefits to the Leica design, one is that the grip attaches to the tripod socket, a much stronger attachment than the standard baseplate lock points, and you get an extra pinky’s worth of height, allowing all four fingers to rest on the grip when needed. If you use the faster, heavier Leica glass, buy the grip. You won’t regret it. Knobs, buttons, and controls come next. I really like the 2-position on/off concentric switch around the shutter release. Very easy and very positive to use and to know how it is set. Very much like the M7, although I think the CNC grooves on the switch are a little sharper than on the M7 as I started to wear a new callous on my index finger. The shutter release is standard three-position off/meter/release you would feel on any of the metered Leica M’s. Very usable and predictable. The shutter speed dial holds no surprises or issues, and the same can be said for the frame preview lever. The ISO set is an interesting design, and I am sold on the idea of up-position when making regular changes, down-position locked when those changes are less necessary. The M-D 262 implementation may be a little quicker to use as you don’t have to shift your grip to make the change, but the M10 is usable as well. Now, I would like to mention two tiny annoyances in all the buttons and controls. The set wheel under the thumb bump on the back is easy to accidentally bump, which is a problem if you set exposure compensation to this control alone. I made this mistake three or four times before I went looking in the menus to disabling this way of setting exposure compensation. Now I use front-button + thumb control wheel. The other tiny annoyance is that the focus peak and lens release button are the same shape, size, and feel, and when you’re fumbling with a new camera body in the dark using a portrait orientation with the grip, you may find yourself pushing the wrong button. No comments required on the remainder of the buttons on the back, they do what they are intended to do, and do those functions well. So, what’s on my wish list for the M11, or maybe M-10P? Here’s a list: 1. May we have the strap rub top plate inserts back please? 2. Consider revising the lens release button to having a small recess in the center like on the M6. This will give it a tactile differentiation from the focus button. 3. Ship the camera with two batteries, raise the price $195, and eliminate this source of new ownership irritation. 4. Sapphire screens are nice for those buying a camera to last a lifetime. For those planning on upgrading to the M11, gorilla glass plus the Leica screen film will last you for the three to four year product life cycle. 5. Expand the scope of delivery on the professional models. Add a second battery, grip, and maybe thumb-rest, the latter two engraved with the body’s serial number to make a set. 6. Maybe a tiny tweak to the firmware on the meter settling algorithm and focus peaking algorithm in low light. Thank you for your patience in reading nearly 2,000 words of impressions. I like this camera a lot, and heavens forbid if I had to have just one digital Leica, this would likely be it, at least for the next few years until the M11 is released. Eric P.S. Why the click-bait title? I did note a hair on my chip which showed up for a couple of images, then worked it way loose, only to show up again 500 images later, again for only a couple of images before the shutter motion worked it loose. I don't think we need shaker-chips like various other DSLR implementations include, as that would negate the depth benefit of the M10.

Can someone tell me the importance of the pin in the bottom plate? I was advised when removing the bottom plate to keep it as a spare in my camera bag, whilst using the grip because this pin which I have marked makes an electrical connection when the bottom plate is fixed in place. Without the plate the camera does not take photos as far as I can see. I think this pin rests on the SD card outer enclosure when the plate is in place. Just curious that's all, it is in way a problem to me, just curious.

Hi I am thrilled today to have received my first ever Leica. Currently selling all my Canon gear on eBay to pay for my second hand M-E with 35mm Summicron. Taken about 10 photos before work and I love it already. I'm finding it impossible though to find out when grip accessory works with the M-E that I can use the hand loop on. I plan to get back into Macro with the 90mm f4.0 one day and possibly the 21mm Super Elmar. Can anyone shed any light for me please? Any other accessories you'd recommend would be appreciated too. Alex

MatchTechnical and Tim Isaac have given me the privilege of testing a prototype of the Thumbs Up EP-SL grip for the SL camera. I am a huge fan of MatchTechnical's designs, which have adorned each of my Leica cameras since the M8. I believe that the EP-SL is another great design that will add to hand holding stability of the camera, in particular with larger lenses (SL and R lenses). Below are a few pictures. The grip should be available in a few weeks, from what I have been told....

I noticed this on Amazon and wondered if anyone has tried it for the Q yet. I have heard great things about the J.B. Designs grips for other cameras and think this looks pretty nice while allowing access to the battery compartment. Let me know your thoughts, always great to learn from others experience! http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Camera-Designs-Wood-Leica/dp/B0128QZ76U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448197017&sr=8-2&keywords=Leica+q+grip

Why no silver version of the Grips... Neither the normal or multifunctional grip come in silver chrome like my M is.

Dear Leica Friends, recently aquired a R4 with motor winder R4 and mechanical grip. After mounting the gear I focused and pressed the mechanic button of the grip, continuous peep sounds prior to shooting. It´s annoying! Could not find any hint in the manuals of the motor winder nor of the camera. Does anyone know how to get rid of this sound? - would be great!!!

I wrote up a small article on the Luigi cases. I took a bunch of photos showing it and how the flap works in use. This might be helpful to anyone thinking about one. I love it! I wish I never had to take it off! Review: Luigi Leather Halfcase for Leica M8 / M9

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Is ther a need for something like this?