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Found 6 results

  1. I am successfully developing at home C-41 color negative (and XP2 B&W) and E-6 based slide films using the Arista development packs. After I started recently working with the E-6 process, a few differences compared to C-41 became obvious to me regarding the recommended steps in the development procedures: 1. E-6 requires washing with water between first developer and color developer, and then afterwards before adding Blix. C-41 has no water wash in between developer and Blix addition - why? Would it be better to add a washing step in the C-41 process similar to the E-6 process to avoid contamination of Blix and stop the developer? Or is there a reason that this shouldn't be done? 2. E-6 has no final stabilizer wash as it is done in the C-41 process. I understood from earlier discussions in this forum that the stabilizer acts to preserve the color negative - any specific reason why this is not needed with slide film? 3. Is there a difference in oxidation stability of the developer used in C-41 and the two developers used in E-6? Are both color developers in C-41 and E-6 the same?
  2. Hi! Today I received a batch of negatives which I had processed and scanned at a dedicated b/w lab. Usually I do the scanning myself, but this time I needed some quick results to check the technical validity of some vintage cameras and I had little spare time available. These scans are low res jpeg and only substitute for contacts. I am thinking of re-entering the dark abodes of home-developing, especially after reviewing the result that I want to query this forum about. Seven rolls of TriX, TMax and HP5 from diffeent cameras (M3, IIIf, M7) came out fine, but one roll of film (TMax) from a 1934 IID shows peculiar scratches not typical of ones that I have seen or produced myself before. Since this is the only roll of film from this newly acquired camera that I have available (it is currently away for a focusing CLA), I would be particularly interested in whether it is a problem that might be related to the camera or whether it is related to film handling pre/during/post development, which I find more likely. Since I bought the camera from a respected dealer, he should be noticed of any problems soon as possible. The scratches start at #25 and continue until #36A, where the scratch line tapers off into the perforation. It is not a strictly parallel scratch like ones I have seen from damaged back plates or sloppy enveloping/ rolling and it is not continuous for all the way. I will post three example images. I hope diagnosis can be made from forum resolution. (1): #29, Inadvertent picture of my lens cap (idiot me ) (2): #32, Oyster bed, 300 million years old, today grounding a cottage, situated 600 Km from the nearest shoreline (3): #35, Casino, Wiesbaden, Germany Has anybody seen a scratch configuration like this before? Thanks! Kind regards, Mathias EDIT: By the way, the scratches are on the emulsion side.
  3. I'm fascinated by Leica heritage and Leica lenses. I figured I would like to give film a try before going digital. Not knowing much about film cameras, I'd like to have some advice about which film Leica camera to buy, where to buy film and the best developer/scanner (possibly by mail, in the UK). Thank you,
  4. Hi all, I finally gathered all the stuff and chemicals to develop my films. I am using D-76 stock solution for development, Ilfostop and Ilford rapid fixer. I am using Kodak Photoflo as wetting agent. And I have some questions and need your advice. I experienced the first problem with dissolving D-76 in 3L double distilled water at 55℃. Entire mixture dissolved (no precipitate there) but still the solution was blurry even after 24 hours. And I had to filter it. Does it always happen to you too? I shot Fomapan 400 at 400 ISO. As far as I read from the forum, it has an actual ISO rating not more than 200. I was expecting an underdeveloped film at the end of the process. But film turned out to be over-developed. And it looks very contrasty as if it is pushed 2-3 stops. Is it a general feature that you expect from Fomapan? This is my first time using this film. At 19℃, I developed for 8:45 min (first 1 min continuous agitation and then every minute 10 second agitation) , 2 min for stop and 5 min fix. I washed with water in between baths to increase the lifetime of chemicals. Can you comment on how can I improve the development process? Here some results:
  5. I just wanted to share something that might help others in their quest for less dust on negs. I am a noob when it comes to developing, and my first several rolls of film were horrible. There were so many scratches, dust, dirt, dog hair and crap on them I thought I'd never create a crap free neg, but I stumbled on a fool proof solution for me! Here are the elements: 1.) I run a hot shower for two minutes to bring the dust down in the bathroom where the negs will hang (I do it at the end of the washing step). 2.) I turn off the air conditioner and put a towel over the floor vent to minimize circulating air. 3.) I only remove the film from the tank IN the bathroom ready for hanging, no walking around with it. It goes from the tank to the clips. 4.) (I think this is key) I pour the photo-flo from the canister down both sides of my film right after hanging. I think it washes crap off the film...that's my guess. 5.) (another key point I think) I get the scanner ready for the film before it's dry and when I go into the bathroom, I cut the negs off of the clips at the bottom and the top, I don't try to clean off the accumulated moisture at the clips. Once I have a neg in hand, I GO STRAIGHT to the scanner and feed it into the scanner. (a 20 foot trip) 6.) I also wear white-lint-free-cotton-inspection-gloves when handling the negs. That's it. Since I've been doing that I've had to clean a total of two TINY dust spots off of my negs in 4 rolls developed. I'm astounded how well it works! No dust at all. Just thought someone might benefit from something here; I know that I was pulling my hair out with my previous results.
  6. Anyone have experience with D-76? I am absolutely new to film development. A professional photographer was nice enough to take the time to write me an e-mail in response to a question about choice of developers. In part as a consequence of his advice, I decided on D-76 with the Tri-X film I have been shooting. I bought the D-76, or rather a D-76 clone, so I don't want to revisit the choice of developer. My question relates to technique. He told me that D-76 is not a highly active developer and when it is diluted 1+1, it is advisable to process only one roll at a time in a two roll tank. Otherwise the film will not develop fully. It doesn't sound right to me, but it could also simply be a precaution he typically gives to beginners, in which case it might not be a bad idea. I don't know. Any thoughts? If I did follow this advice where would I station the reel--at the top of the tank, in the middle?
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