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Showing results for tags 'develop'.
Found 6 results
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Well...I decided to try my hand at developing at home. I got everything ready and thought it would go reasonably smooth but... The ONE thing that I didn't check out well enough was how to load the reel, but when I realized that I was committed inside my changing bag so I figured, the worst that could happen is that I'd ruin the film. Well, I did. I had a really hard time getting it ON the reel, and wasn't sure how tight it should be but after I was done developing, I looked up a YT video and oh boy....waaaaaayyyyy too tight. So I finished it and it's drying but it's really bad. It will become my practice film when it's dry. One question; do you like the steel reels or the "quick load" plastic ones? The quick load plastic ones (that ratchet) seem much easier for a noob like me. It was a good experience over all, it gave me an idea of what I'd need to do as far as the rest of the steps. One thing I'll mention also, my changing bag is only 16" x 17" and it seemed really cramped. My instinct is to buy a bigger one that's sort of a pop-tent design but I'm wondering if that's just a knee jerk reaction to my experience?
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Darn it...how disappointing. I shot a whole roll of Tri-x and when I went to develop it, I couldn't get it on the reel to save my life. I have the plastic self threading reels from Paterson and normally I leave the leader out of the roll so that I can start it outside of the changing bag but I got over confident and didn't do that....well, I couldn't get the film on the reel. It finally got so bad I tried a metal reel and that was a bust also. I got so frustrated that I just opened the changing bag and threw the whole thing in the trash. To make matters worse, I had another roll of Kentmere 400 that I shot in my new Zorki 4 and I DID leave the leader out and was successful in getting it on the reel...but there was a camera malfunction and the whole roll was transparent! Not a good day for film. Never again am I going to be a hero and allow the tail to go all of the way into the cassette. I can't imagine why no company has made an updated version of the Jobo 2400; the tank that you put the film cassette in, close it up, and it does all of the work in loading the reel for you. -
I am looking for recommendations on on good photo labs in Germany. I need C-41 development and scan, mostly 35mm but also medium format. I don't need some exclusive high end labs, but also don't want to send my film to the corner drugstore photo lab. Any recommendations please. Thank you!
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Hey guys! I just developed my first film at home. Tri X 400 at 1600. Shot on my M6 with a 35 Summicron and Yellow Filter. This is my go to setup. Today I tried do develop my first role at home with the following recipe: -18:30 in Rodinal 1+50 at 19°C/68°F -Agitate 30 seconds initially, then 2 inversions every 2 minutes -Rinse/stop with 19°C/68°F water for 1 minute -Adox Adofix 1+9 fixer for 4.5 minutes -1 min wash -Adox Adoflo 35 seconds with distilled water -hang to dry Bye the way, I know Rodinal is probably the most inappropriate developer one can use for pushing tri x at 1600. Here ist the outcome. Strange streaks all over the negatives.. So much grain and a strange tone curve. Any ideas what caused this problem?
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I have not shot film in several decades, and never shot with a Leica. Until now. I just purchased an M3 and could not be more excited. I'm definitely not ready to go back to developing and printing my own black and white just yet. I'm looking for recommendations for labs that care -- and preferably, labs that can also scan all the way to the sprockets and beyond. And also seeking film recommendations. Is any of the C41 b&w any good? Thanks in advance!
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The 5219 was exposed and developed both rating at EI 800. So the developing time was extended for 40 seconds. The other process are as the manual tells of the ECN-2 kit I bought. Noted: I tend to overexpose one stop than the meter suggests at daylight when the meter is pointed to the lightened ground. I have got decent results and better histogram distribution on digital. The film density looks very high, the film roll looks darker than the previously lab-developed 5219. My father uses Silverfast 8 and Plustek 8200iSe to scan my film. He turned on the ISRD feature to remove dust and scratches. However, with the ISRD on, the images are fine on preview, but all corrupted at the final output. Normally, when clicking into the infrared layer, only dust and scratches are shown. However, on this 5219, it shows the whole image in the infrared layer. He took a picture of the screen display: The SilverFast claims that the ISRD function does not work for BW film and Kodachrome because there are silver grains on the film, which reflect or deflect the infrared ray, and let the ISRD function mistakes the grains as dust and scratches, corrupting the whole image. Examples are easily found on google. Summarize the information I collected, I highly suspect the bleaching process with this ECN-2 kit was incomplete on this roll of 5219. It left a layer of silver grain upon the emulsion. I googled and learned the “bleach by-pass” for cinematography film processing, which creates the special visual effect with the silver atop the dyes. To support this, the provided image from the Plustek 8200i “Quick scan”, shows highly washed color and overexposure in scanning:
