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Found 5 results

  1. Hi, Found this lovely forum while searching for info on a Leica R4 body described as having a "small problem". It belongs to a friend who gave me the option of buying it off him cheap, in its existing state, and trying to fix it and re-sell to a collector. I have been reading up on this and trying a few things and had a couple observations and questions that I am hoping the experts in this forum can help me with. 1) When I received it, I discovered that the shutter was not just firing with a delay, it was stuck and unusable. The film advance lever was stuck as well, indicating that the shutter probably froze midway through its cycle. The mirror was down, but the DOF preview lever was "loose". 2) The battery LED would light, but there was no activity in the viewfinder, meaning no leds or anything at all. The camera seemed dead. New batteries did not change anything. 3) After a fair bit of research, I found a thread (unsure where) that suggested "smacking" the camera bottom on a bed or similar soft surface. Somewhat frustrated, I did this, and it actually worked. The shutter finished its cycle and the film advance lever was working again, AND the viewfinder leds worked. I checked the meter and it seems fine too. 4) Advance the lever (no film), press the shutter, and same exact problem. But over many tests, I discovered that in B and 100, both mechanical modes, it would sometimes fire with a big delay, and other times get completely stuck. Smacking always releases the shutter. 5) Based on many threads in this forum, I believe this problem is typically related to dirty magnetic dampers. However, I find mixed information on how to reach the magnets. There was one thread that suggested it can be reached from the bottom plate and is easy, while another suggested it is behind the dof preview lever and complicated to reach, requiring some degree of disassembly. Unfortunately, I did not find information on WHAT disassembly is required. 6) In the meantime, I have also found that in all of the electronic modes (manual operation, but shutter speed electronic), the shutter button actually never fully depresses and therefore the shutter never fires at all. It feels like a half-press only in the electronic modes. In the mechanical mode, I can clearly see and feel the shutter go much deeper and actuate something. So my questions: 1) Is the shutter button behaving normally? Is there something else I am missing, as to why the shutter button won't fully depress in electronic mode, but works in mechanical mode? 2) If its the dampers, do I go from the bottom or the top? In any case, how do I get the top plate off and get any sort of serious disassembly done on this camera? I see one screw in the back, by the eye-piece control dial, and know that the top most screw on the mount holds the top plate down. But are those the only two screws? What else do I need to remove to get the top plate off? I am guessing the film rewind lever (on the left side, over the ISO dial) needs to come off, and the entire ISO dial mechanism probably needs to be lifted off too. What about on the right side, how do I get under the film advance lever and the shutter control? 3) Given the fact that the meter seems to work properly, I am guessing the electronics on this sample are okay (its a 156xxxx serial number). But just to be sure, if the electronics are toast, how do I know this? Any help/advice is appreciated, including an opinion on what price its worth buying at and then trying to fix it so I can keep it for myself, OR sell in working condition to a collector. A warning that it might be more valuable sold off to a collector in present condition than executing a botched repair and destroying its value completely is also taken in the right spirit. Thanks, Karthik PS - I literally went thru every single page of the English forum looking for answers. Now after posting, I see threads related to this in the German forum! Is there a way for me to search on the other language forums? Any pointers appreciated, but please understand that I did a pretty comprehensive search and processed what information I already found before making this thread
  2. Hi community, I am quite new to the Leica Q and I expect the following to be a beginner's question. But, it is worrying me or at least I want to ensure that the phenomenon is not the cause of a technical issue. I am using the Leica Q in program automatic (aperture and time), multi-field metering and center-weighted metering. Auto focus is set to "single" mode, not continuous! (AF-S) My expectation was that whenever I press the shutter halfway through, the green rectangles indicate what is going to be in focus. Pressing it completely through should take the shot immediately. This works in 95% of the cases but sometimes it seems that the lens has to refocus when pressing the shutter completely through which causes a delay of 1-2 seconds! This is quite confusing as the moment was gone in those cases. Is this a technical issue or a normal behavior? I am not quite sure whether this happened with my SLR as well when I used in in auto mode! Thanks a lot for the help in advance! Cheers, Julian
  3. ...new to digital, finally took the plunge and got the M9 after years of film M use. Intention is to continue shooting film and grow into digital. Initial feeling re: M9 is "wow", but I am a bit concerned about the discernible shutter lag (relative to mechanical Ms) and need to understand if this is normal for digital Ms. Would appreciate input from users that shoot with both film and digital Ms. Thanks.
  4. ...the parts have all gone HERE: Leica Camera AG - Save over $1,000 with M8 upgrades!
  5. Missing the Decisive Moment 1932, Paris, near the Gare Saint-Lazare the great Henri Cariter Bresson approaches a flooded construction site enclosed by an iron fence. He quickly realizes the potential of the situation and as a man dressed in black leaps over the ladder lying on the ground trying to avoid getting his feet wet, he presses the shutter just a fraction of a second before the heel of the man’s right shoe hits the water. He just made what was arguably going to be his most iconic street photograph ever. If, instead of using one of his beloved mechanical Leicas, he had used a Leica Q, looking though its fantastic EVF, he would immediately have avoided the parallax issue that caused him to include a part of the fence through which he was photographing and which forced him to apply a slight crop. The last glimpse he would see in the viewfinder was in fact the much desired decisive moment, but what he would find when hitting the PLAY button would be a picture with a big splash of the man landing in the puddle of water. Not because his reflexes were not quick enough, not because of any delay in the class-leading shutter of the “Q”, but because of a more serious quirk of the Leica Q which under certain circumstances makes it almost useless as a tool for capturing the “decisive moment”. It turns out that under certain circumstances the delay with which the real world is presented through the EVF (or the LCD on the back of the camera) makes it almost impossible to catch the right moment. By the time you see something happening in the viewfinder the world has moved on and what you get in the final picture is not what you had expected. Try this: set your camera for a typical daylight street scene on a sunny day using the “sunny sixteen” method (F16, Shutter = 1/ISO), so for example F16, 1/500th, ISO 500. Now watch someone walking while half-pressing the shutter and then press through completely just as the subjects front foot is just about to hit the ground (as in HCB’s picture). What you get is a rather unpleasant front leg with a bent knee. If you repeat the exercise looking at your subject directly (ie, not through the viewfinder) you should be able to get exactly the moment you want. To be more explicit, and in order for anybody to easily repeat the experiment, I’ve used a metronome app running on an iPAD as a continuously moving subject. In the following video I’ve set the speed of the metronome to 248 bpm running on an iPad set at maximum luminosity. The Leica Q is set to F16, 1/125th, ISO 50000 and the rear LCD screen and the iPad are recorded with an iPhone 6. I apologize for the quality of the video, but I think it is absolutely clear that when the shutter is half-pressed (which closes down the diaphragm) the delay becomes immediately visible. Also notice that if the shutter is not half-pressed there is no delay. In theory, therefore, it would be possible to follow the action without half-pressing and then doing a full press at the right time, but often you want to half-press to make sure all of the normal chores of autofocus, metering etc. are taken care of so as not to waste further time. The problem seems to be intimately related to the F-stop, the higher the F the worse. At F below 4-5.6 it is hardly noticeable. https://youtu.be/EPTyJrfnkgs In this second video I’m showing a Fuji X100T in the same conditions and as you can see there is no noticeable delay. Also the Fuji X-T1 is without delay in the same conditions, which leads me to believe the problem to be specific to the “Q”. https://youtu.be/8GoNQXW0Ke0 I hope the design engineers of Leica get a chance to read this post and perhaps to repeat these experiments for themselves in the hope that they may come up with a solution in a future firmware update. On a side note I wonder if the new SL has the same problems. Since it is marketed as an action camera I think it would be a real deal breaker if it did. Aside from the problem described I would like to express my full appreciation of the camera. For reportage/street photography with its excellent intuitive handling, super silent shutter, unquestionable image quality, buttery smooth manual focus, lightning fast autofocus and general unobtrusiveness the Leica Q is really hard to beat.
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