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Showing results for tags 'color'.
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A few early spring photos
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Time running like sand through your hand
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Private Learjet 45 cruising 500 mph at 51,000 ft altitude
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In Naples, there's a lot to see, but I think the most interesting is the hustle and bustle in the streets, markets and shops. And of course, the stores themselves .. Andreas - These are lovely shots but they viloate Forum rules for image size, so I resized them and replaced them. In the future please follow the rules: No side larger than 960 pixels and no file size larger than 300 KB. Stuart Nordheimer [ATTACH]287198[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]287199[/ATTACH]
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Hello everybody, this is my frist post. Hope you like! Granmother takes breakfast in hospital. Leica M9 + Carl Zeiss Biogon 35mm f/2
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I have a question - is there any way to jpg files from Leica M8 (v 2.024) reminded jpg Leica M9? Will exposure to -2/3, color: medium (example?)? Please help. I love the colors jpg with the M9. What can I set in my M8? Has anyone tried, maybe some settings will resemble the saturation of the M9?
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Hi Folks, I have been disappointed with residual uncorrected color shifts in the corners of shots with my M9P and 28mm Elmarit ASPH and 24mm Elmar ASPH lenses (particularly snow scenes). The built in profiles of my camera don’t seem adequate for my samples of these lenses. Has anyone with the new Leica M worked with these lenses? If so, could you please post samples? Thanks, Steve K -
Hello all, I am wondering if anyone here can help me resolve some issues after upgrading to Lion. I am using CS5 on a Macbook and printing on an Epson Sylus Photo R2400. I recently upgraded to OSX 10.7 (from 10.58 if this matters). When I compare a photo that I printed before the upgrade with one printed after the upgrade (using the same paper and profile and the file has not been edited between printings), the one printed in 10.7 has a slight magenta cast (the original print has pastel greenish blues; the one printed from 10.7 is more greyish violet). The original print matches the calibrated monitor better as well. I am using photoshop to manage colors, and, as far as I can tell with the new driver, printer color management is turned off (this seems to happen when the settings are selected in the photoshop print window). I have read that there were potential issues with drivers, but I have cleaned out the Epson folder in my system library, reset the printing system, and reloaded the printer with newly downloaded drivers from Epson. None of this seems to change the output. It may be possible that the new Epson driver yields different color from the same file/profile combination, but this strikes me as unlikely. It may also be that there was some nozzle clogging in the original prints that, once cleared, has resulted in the color shift, but the number of consistent prints and timing of the shift makes this unlikely as well. I am tempted to get a custom profile for the printer to address the match issue, but if there is some software glitch that is causing the shift, am not sure this is the right solution either. Does anyone have any advice as to how to resolve this issue? Thanks
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hi, the color saturation option (black & white option) is only available in the snapshot mode? as soon as i leave this mode i cannot access to this option anymore. am i missing a point? i dont feel free setting up my camera functions as i want -
Just wondering if anyone could recommend a good colour calibration profile or preset, for LR, for the M9 with the new-type sensor? Colour is indeed more of a matter of taste, but I think a generally-speaking "neutral" or "faithful" colour reproduction might perhaps be a good starting point for work from? Thanks a lot! Best, Rus -
I'm starting a thread for anyone who would like to create, and share full color images by shooting three black and white photos of the same subject. The technique is called Trichrome Photography, and it was used to create the first color image in 1861. Here's some early examples http://tricrhomephoto.tumblr.com/ Creating a color image from three black and white photographs is done by using a different color filter in front of the lens for each exposer (Red, Green, and Blue.) When those three black and white color records are combined, a full color image is created. Today, the easy way to combine those three black and white color records, is with Photoshop. The highest quality Trichrome images are produced with a tripod, and a still object. However, interesting color effects can occur if there's movement between exposures. This technique can be done on film or digital cameras. As much as I consider myself a film enthusiast, I think the best black and white color records will come from Leica digital Mono cameras. Of course, Leica digital color cameras can be used, however they have a filter in front of the sensor to create color (possibly reducing detail.) Leica mono cameras do not have this filter, therefore possibly increasing the amount of information being recorded. With film cameras, the process is a bit more involved. There's the choice of what black and white film to use (slowest speed possible is best since three images will be layered on top of each other.) Processing of the film, then scanning of the film. Also, layering the three black and white color records together in a program like Photoshop may not be as precise, depending on the quality of the scans. The following link shows examples of Trichrome Photography today https://www.flickr.com/photos/tags/trichromes The following link shows a Trichrome created with a M6 http://www.pirate-photo.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?t=820 And a Youtube video on how to stack the three color records into one shot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S28OUlavAvg The idea to start this thread came from two books I'm currently reading. "The Dawn of Technicolor 1915-1935," and "Technicolor Movies; The History of Dye Transfer Printing."
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Duisburg, Industrial Landscape Park North A location to explore and to let go your imagination Leica Q
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Attached a detail of a out of camera jpeg (DNG is identical) showing chromatic aberration. Is this normal and if yes, how do I get rid of?
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Processed in Lightroom, Landscape or Color profiles, I find that boring grey skies are apt to carry a blue tinge (that becomes stronger as you approach blue hour). It certainly makes the pics look more lively, but it’s not what I remember seeing. If I set the sky to be grey using the temperature setting, the rest of the picture looks too warm. Have others noticed such quirks? Is there a solution (that doesn’t involve repainting the scene)?
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Hi all, I've noticed there isn't a dedicated thread for editing L-Log footage, so I will begin one here. I realize that colouring and re-touching video is a very subjective field, but I wanted to see how others work within Leica's limited literature surrounding post-production in video. I've just updated my Atomos Ninja V to the latest firmware, which now allows for L-Log recording from leica (the past year with the SL2 was a little tedious working with both internally and externally recorded video footage). Now, with this update, BT2020 seems a lot nicer. I've just done my first video about this update here: -
Hi everyone, I’m hesitating which color film to choose for shooting in cloudy rainy day. What are your recommendations? I have all my fridge all color films that are in production nowadays + Fuji Pro 400H
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I post process my SL 2 raws in Adobe Lightroom. It is generally fine, although, as seems common with Leica raws, the reds are a bit oversaturated. I tend to use the Landscape profile as it seems to have a slightly less contrasty tone curve than Color and the colours are a bit more vibrant. A typical workflow is to add a bit of vignetting, adjust white balance, push the auto exposure, for a starting point, normalise the black and white points to get the right amount of clipping, add 15 clarity and 5 dehaze, and Robert is your Mother’s brother. The SL2’s white balance is normally v good, but when it isn’t I find that Auto tends to result in an overly warm image, relative to the expected neutral. Similarly, taking the white balance reading from gray clouds seems to result in too much warming of the image, suggesting that the SL2 wants to render them blue, at least under the Landscape profile. (I get better results taking the white point from cloud highlights, where they are available and where it isn’t too close to sunset.) I also realise that the dehaze tends to add a bit of a blue cast. Has anyone a better recipe for getting better (more natural) colours out of the SL2?
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Hi, l’ve a 50mm Summicron and 90mm elmarit; both stellar lenses. I’ve had these lenses for a good few years and don’t have any desire for more. From the get go I was sure to source lenses with common filter sizes, in this instance 39mm. I shoot quite a lot of film with my M6, both colour and BW. Its on the way back (in the post) with a viewfinder upgrade and CLA so looking forward to giving it a good run feeding it lots more film. I’ve a B+W F- Pro orange filter that I use a little and I’d like to add to this. Specifically a green filter for BW portraits, to experiment on my young surfer son who’s seven with some cute freckles. Also, for colour negative, typically with Portra, I’d like to get my hands on warming and cooling filters to try and get more consistent results and minimise colour shifts. This is particularly relevant as finding a good local scanner operator is a challenge; it’s not an excuse, just another reason to try and minimise any requirement for corrections at the scanner, i note Leica make some black and white filters, including a green filter, so that would likely cover off my requirement for BW, however, I’m stumped for warming and cooling filters, particularly in the 39mm size. I tried a camera store this afternoon to see what they may be able to get and was advised they’re unable to help me as there’s little need these days with digital; fair enough. Most ideally too, I’d like nice brass filters like the B+W F-Pro series, they’re very nicely made bits of kit. As I’d like to keep the setup compact, I don’t wish to use step downs or larger filters, I’d like to stick with 39mm. So, we’ll made brass 39mm filters; colour for BW and warming / cooling for colour neg. Any recommendations on where I might find the above? New or used? Thanks. And for a bit of fun, who else is using warming and cooling filters for colour neg film? I’ve an old Lumu light meter; I’m considering upgrading to the newer one simply for better understanding of colour temp variance, and flash measurement. FYI, the lumu’s are a great little light meter; I keep mine on my phone always, often even if I don’t have a camera with me! Cheers, Steve
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From the album: Leica M Typ 240
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From the album: Leica X-E
Sunset in the countryside -
From the album: DJGR33R
© DJGR33R
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From the album: Walk around the Neighborhood
© (C) 2016, Chris Scholz
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© Kelly Rae Daugherty
