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PLZ

Found 11 results

  1. any point in coding my lenses? 90mm elmarit 50/1.2 canon (code as noctilux?) 28/3.5 canon (not sure)
  2. Using a template I downloaded and printed, I have successfully coded my 35mm f2 Summicron ASPH. I used the template to locate the dot placement and did a trial run with a Sharpie marker first. It took a few tries and ultimately worked with a blacker colored marker (Sharpies are a weird bluish black color). I then used a 0.5mm dental ball bur in a micromotor handpiece (similar to a Dremel by 10x the price). A larger bur would have been fine but that's what was in the handpiece and I'm comfortable with that size so I used it. After excavating the metal I filled it with Rust Oleum flat black paint and the camera recognizes is perfectly. The hardest part of the entire job was using a scalpel to make a precision template. And as careful as I was, it still has more play than I would like.
  3. After finally getting my M10 delivered to me last November, I was chomping at the bit to use my old lenses that I used to shoot with my M6's some 10 years or more ago. They are all older lenses (late 70's to mid 90's) in 28mm, 35mm, two 50mm's, 90mm, and 135mm and all relatively fast lenses (mostly summicrons with a summarit here and there) but not one of them is aspherical. I loved these lenses while shooting film and still love them on the M10, but it is a ROYAL pain to have to mash buttons up and down and in and out of menus to set the M10 to the right lens designation every time I switch lenses and to be perfectly honest, I haven't noticed a difference in the images. I tried ordering new bayonets that were "codeable" on ebay and turns out the screw patterns weren't the same. And at this point, I'm wondering if I should bother at all? Is there really a difference in a coded vs non-coded lens of this vintage besides getting exif data out of the shot? I've seen the magenta color shift in some of the images posted here and elsewhere, but damn if I can find it in my shots. So... are these lenses too old to code? Just the wider ones? Do I even care?
  4. Has anyone heard of this issue and / or know the impact of this? I can't seem to find anything on it.
  5. I'm a new M9 user, and want to get my old lenses coded where possible. Most of them are not on Leica's list even if I could pay the $300+ each. I was getting ready to contact JML when I heard he had passed. The only other options I know of are Don Goldberg but I believe he sent the flanges to JML; and Will van Manen in the Netherlands. His current price (for a 28 M-Rokkor, milling and adjusting frame line lug if necessary) Is €120 plus return shipping (to USA) is €157 via UPS, less if to UPS access point but still a lot. I've ordered a bunch of pre-milled LTM adapters for my screwmount lenses, and flange adapters for the M lenses that have the right screw patterns. That leaves out some early M lenses that don't have flange adapters available, including in my case ones that don't have detachable flanges, but where the bayonet is much thicker and is more integral with the mount (no screws on the mating surface, no obvious way to detach): 50mm collapsible Summicron 35mm original Summilux 135mm Elmar I've tried the template and sharpie method. It worked fine on day 1, but on day 2 the marks had worn off. Is there a US machinist milling 6-bit pits at the moment?
  6. Anyone tried different profiles for this lens? I've tried a few, most obvious choice is the 35mm f/1.4 Pre-ASPH However, I tried using 35mm f/2 ASPH and it seems there is less vignetting than using 35mm f/1.4 Pre-ASPH. Any other findings?
  7. Hi, Did some searching and couldn't find a clear answer. Do folks with this combo code it as a 50/1.0? Not code it? Something else? Thanks for your thoughts.....
  8. Hi, just got a brand-new Noctilux f/0.95 for my M9... I set the lens detection to "Auto", and yet I find that when I press "Info" it shows the lens listed as "Uncoded." As this lens is obviously coded, what could be wrong here? I've actually never used a coded lens on my M9 before (have a collection of older lenses), so perhaps there's something going on with my camera body? Looking forward to any advice / suggestions you guys might have.
  9. I just got a Voigtlander type 2 screw to bayonet converter for my little CV28/3.5. What's the concesus on the most appropriate coding for this lens? David
  10. I know I'm going to open a can of worms with this thread, but I would like to know if there is anyone out there that is using or has used voigtlander glass with the M8. What kinds of issues if any and what successes. Also, is there a way to code the voigtlander lenses for the Leica digital rangefinders? I have an M8 and I want to buy some fast glass - particularly 35mm and 75mm focal lengths. I have a limited budget and the Leica lenses hold their value well, so no luck on used gear either. I also had a chance to shoot an M9 recently and was told by the Leica rep that the M9 is going to be a lot more sensitive to coding and the glass used. Please, any comments will help. Thanks, RW
  11. I've got an early version 35mm f/2 with bugeyes or goggles. Can this be hand coded, given that it triggers (I think) the 50mm framelines and then demagnifies them through the goggles? Modifying the mount to act like a 35mm would then throw off the view through said goggles. Thanks in advance, M
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