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Showing results for tags 'black and white film'.
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Hi all! I've just started shooting and developing my own black and white film (on a Leica IIIf). I need some help with my most recent roll that I tried to develop. I got this "faded" look (attached screenshots). Any ideas on what went wrong? Only thing I can think of is that the chemicals I used (developer and fixer) were each used only once before. I was also very slightly less careful about the temperature of the chemicals, because I didn't have a way of heating up my saved chemicals, and the temperature of the chemicals was maybe 17-19 C. My scanning process is very sub-standard since I haven't invested much into this process yet. I'm using an old scanner with max 600 dpi, and I haven't yet solved the newton ring problem yet. I intend to improve on this once I figure out my chemical process. The film I am using is Kodak T-Max 400, and I used Ilfosol 3 developer (1+9 ratio) and Simplicity Rapid Fixer (1+5 ratio). I used the following development times: * 7:30 development * 1:00 stop bath (just used tap water) * 5:00 fixing * Fill and empty tank with water 5 times to wash off fixer * 0:30 of wetting solution Any help appreciated.
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I am in the middle of scanning some old Fuji Neopan 1600 negatives, and that was a film I really liked but sadly is no longer available. Has anybody any experience of working with fast colour films from Fuji or Kodak (800 or 1600 iso) and then scanning them as black and white? Thanks! Gerry
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- fuji neopan 1600
- high speed films
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This from a film received back from the lab this week. Leica M7 with 50mm Zeiss Sonnar f1.5 and taken on Kodak Tri-X at 320iso. Lab processed and then processed using Lightroom Classic.
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From my 'Paris' portfolio. Taken on an M6 using Kodak T400CN film commercially processed. I am sorry but all lens details have been lost, but probably a 50mm Summicron f2. Gerry
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- street photography
- paris
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Hello! I'm trying to lock in a scanning workflow for B/W 35mm and I've had such a love/hate relationship with my Coolscan 5000 and Vuescan. The detail extracted is second to none, but I'm seeing EVERY flaw as well. There are hairline surface scratches that explode on the screen from these scans that are nowhere to be found on a mirrorless camera scan or a darkroom print. Is this just inherent to the scanning physics? Is it scanning the surface and therefore every film base scratch is seen? Again, if you backlight the negative, all of these tiny scratches are invisible. Hence why they don't show up in camera scans or darkroom prints. Any ideas?
- 5 replies
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- coolscan 5000
- black and white film
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Here's "the book" on Ferrania's P30 Alpha B&W film: I still need to order a batch of P30 and give this film a try; from the P30 based images I have seen posted online, it looks like an outstanding film. I like the author's comment on film photography as a process: "Film photography is a process from pre-visualization to hanging that final print."
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I haven't posted for a while for various personal reasons, but this came back from the lab today. Hope you like it Leica M7 + 35mm Summarit-M f2.5 - Kodak TMY Gerry
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- street photography
- black and white film
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I took this charming image candidly at my favourite café. It is not my normal practice to talk to my subjects, but if there are children involved I normally introduce myself and explain what I have done and ask for permission to use the image. I don't recall ever having been refused, although it is slightly more awkward shooting film as opposed to digital because you cannot show the parent the image. This young mother was quite happy with what I had done. Leica M7 + 35mm Summarit-M f2.5 using Kodak T-Max 400 and only available light. 1/125 @ f2.8
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Here we have good news for black and white film connoisseurs. Good for the folks at Ferrania. I am quite pleased to see them up and running and offering the world of photography their second black and white emulsion.