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Found 5 results

  1. Which one is better? 1, can SF58 mount directly on M240 hotshoe slot without adapter? 2, The compare functions of SF58 and SF40 TTL, AUTO, HSS and etc. ( in direct mount). Which better? Thanks very much. Need make a decision soon.
  2. I just acquired a VLUX 114 for mainly travel, zoo, etc everywhere where more reach than my m10 and 135 can get. I do have a SF-40 flash which I use on my M10 sometimes, as well as a Skyport trigger from Elinchrome in the studio, these work perfectly on the M. I was rather taken aback to see that NEITHER work on the VLUX 114! I can put the Elinchrome trigger on the mount of the VLUX. The SF-40 will not fit. Occasionally I would like to use wireless flash and I am now at a loss currently to know how to achieve this with the VLUX and my current flash equipment. In the studio it is Dlite RX-4 heads and Elinchrome EL-Skyport Speed. Obviously the SF-40 won't work unless I can buy some sort of adaptor for the connection to the VLUX? Haven't been able to find any information yet.
  3. Been using a SF-40 with my Leica Q all weekend. Had a couple of issues... wondering whether this is typical behaviour, or an issue with the SF-40 or the Q? 1. Fairly frequently (say every 10 shots or so) the Pilot LED on the flash will not turn green but stay red, and the unit won't fire. The only solution is to power the SF-40 off and on again. 2. Occasionally the SF-40 will fire at full power for no apparent reason, after which the Pilot light will stay red as in point 1, and the unit will have to be turned off and on again. The two seem linked though not completely, as 1 happens much more than 2 does. Has anyone else experienced this while using the SF-40 or using any flash on the Q? I bought my SF-40 2nd hand however it seems in perfect condition apart from the issues above. I bought it from a camera shop so can fortunately return it i does prove to be faulty.
  4. I confess that I am not easily bored. I can usually find something that will excite me about photography. Today, I was attempting to photograph water droplets with my Canon 5D3 and 100mm macro lens. I had a lot of success and found the whole experience very satisfying. So then, I thought I wonder what the Q will do. I only have the one SF-40 flash, but I decided to try it. The settings are: 1/1600, ISO 100, f/16, flash on manual at 1/32 power. I simply filled a bowl with water. I placed an old discarded photo with an interesting pattern in the water. It's a Epson print and is pretty impervious to water. Then I started dropping water at the area I'd previously focused. Amazingly, it worked pretty well. Not as well as with my Canon 5D3 and 3 flashes, but still I like it. The macro mode on the lens is so simple and works splendidly. Anyway, FYI. I hope you find it interesting. I have.
  5. I am trying to get my head around flash on the Leica Q, I own the SF-40. It's a good match for the Q no doubt about it and pretty straight forward, but I came across some issues. Setup: on-camera flash SF-40 for fill, Aperture priority mode, Auto ISO disabled for flash photography, Aperture usually between f1.7 and f2.8 1. On the Q there is regular flash mode and long exposure mode (I am ignoring the Auto-Flash Option). The latter does not fire at faster speeds than 1/60th. Normal mode on the other hand won't let me go slower than 1/60th. I find this a little cumbersome, it would be good to have the flash fire from 1/2000th up to lets say 1 sec without changing the mode, is there a way to achieve this? 2. Is 1/2000th (still very nice to have compared to other cameras) the Qs max shutter speed that the SF-40 can sync with? HSS, which the SF-40 is capable of, usually goes higher. 3. The TTL flash compensation dial seems to override the Q settings, but it only allows -2/+2 max compensation. Any way to get the -3/+3 the Q has to offer? 4. The SF-40s zoom is set automatically when mounted on the Q. I can't change it manually. It clearly doesn't fully cover the 28mm frame though. I can get around this by using the plastic cap and/or wide angle diffusion screen but still... 5. What are the off-camera options? I think with a Nikon TTL-cable 1/2000th of a second and TTL should work? All in all I am looking for an easy and predictable workflow for direct fill flash or indoor bounce with this setup, that works in most shooting scenarios. Thank you very much.
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