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Showing results for tags 'Problem'.
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During my last couple of trips in colder temperatures I've noticed that once temperatures get slightly cold the light meter of my M6 gets fairly unreliable. Meaning that the little arrows either don't show up at all, are barely visible or simply give me wrong meterings. I'm assuming it has something to do with the cold draining the batteries. But the temperatures I was in weren't exactly "freezing" - mostly between 0 and 15 Celcius (32 and 59 Fahrenheit) - so I'm not sure. Is this a common issue? Is there a simple fix? Maybe a battery thats more resistant to cold temperatures? Any help would be appreciated! -
Hello guys, I’m coming back to game after few years pause from shooting with only Canon bodies (from 1D II to 1DX over years) which was really reliable work horse’s and never let me down. Now I would like to take different approach and want to start my Leica journey. I read forum and saw most of YouTube about M11 and I was about ready to buy one but then I saw thread “M11 freezing Issue” and postponed the purchase until it will be fixed. How this issues evolved? Does software [1.6] helped and solve most of problems with freezing a lockup’s please? I really appreciate all your feedback’s and observations, i can’t even imagine that I may have to swap between 2-3 bodies until I find not even perfect working example only better then before… thanks a lot!
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Moin ihr Lieben, ich habe meine Q2 vor 3 Wochen second hand erworben und sie ist eine super Kamera. Nach täglichem Einsatz wurde mir beim gestrigen Einschalten der Fehler „Akku kann nicht genutzt werden“ auf dem Bildschirm präsentiert. Nach kurzer Zeit (ungefähr 5 Sekunden) rödelt die Kamera und der Bildschirm wird komplett schwarz. Durch das Drücken des Auslösers geht die Kamera wieder an und ich sehe ganz kurz den Live-View (unter 1 Sekunde). Anschließend wird mir wieder der Akku Fehler angezeigt. Ich besitze 2 Original Akkus und der Fehler tritt bei beiden auf, obwohl sie aufgeladen ist. Das kuriose ist, dass es von dem einen auf den anderen Moment unerklärlicher weise kam. Habt ihr eine Idee was es sein könnte? Hatte jemand diesen Fehler schon mal? Kann man die Kamera vielleicht zurücksetzen ohne das Menü zu nutzen? Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße Murat
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My Tele Elmarit M 90 shows these marks when inspecting under a certain angle. It looks like dried water behind the front-element of the lens. It does not show in photos but still it concerns me. Is this serviceable? Have you ever seen something like this?
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Hallo, nach einem kleinen Sturz auf Glatteis mit dem Kamerarucksack bewegt sich beim Fokussieren der eingespiegelte rahmen nicht mehr und lässt sich somit auch nicht mehr übereinanderlegen. Im Liveview funktioniert alles normal. Bei genauem hinsehen kann man durch das Fenster des Entfernungsmessers? sehen, dass etwas gebrochen ist (von außen jedoch keine Beschädigung). Was kann das sein? Ist das reparabel und wirtschaftlich sinnvoll? Bin Dankbar für jede Hilfe! -
I just bought a used M5 and discovered a large translucent stain in the upper end of the rangefinder window. I tried to gently wash the outside of the glass, but it seems to be on the inside. Does anyone know what it is and potentially how bad or harmless it is for the rangefinder window? Should I try to return the camera or can I possibly fix it myself?
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Hello everyone: I'm a Leica photography enthusiast from Spain, English is not my mother language, but I'll do my best. I think it's my first post here since I registered years ago, and I confess that it is not for a pleasant subject. I own a fantastic Leica M9 but for work reasons I have not used it for a couple of years. The point is that today I have charged it and used it for the first time in a long period. And I find that the photos have a very strange moire. Is it a sensor problem? It was taken with the 50mm summilux, I have also attached exif data. What you see is a zoom of 100% of the image. Many thanks for the help, I'm a little scared. Kind regards,
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Today I bought a used Summicron 28 ASPH and immediately noticed that the red dot on the lens - the one used to align when mounting - is of a different color than the Summicron 50 that I have. It is more of an orange color on the 28, and red on the 50. My speculation is that the red color has changed (bleached out) due to exposure to the environment. This sounds quite stupid but it's Leica so anything is possible. Anyone has similar issues? Any advices will be helpful!
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Moin zusammen, ich habe seit ca. 4 Wochen das Problem, dass meine M2 manchmal den Film beim Spannen nicht richtig transportiert. Die Bilder überlappen sich dann. Man merkt es beim Spannen, der Spannhebel springt dann. Der Fehler tritt meistens auf wenn der Zähler bereits bei 20 -25 Bildern steht. Ich habe das Gefühl, dass der Film zwischendurch die Spannung verliert oder über die Zähne rutscht. Ist jemanden so etwas schon mal passiert oder kennt sogar jemand die Lösung? Im Moment elf ich mir in dem ich ein Bild mit Objektivdeckel mache wenn ich merke dass der Film nicht transportiert wurde. Gerade bei teuren oder alten Schätzen verliere ich so meist 4-6 Bilder was ehrlich gesagt sehr schade ist. Gerade bei Filmen wie einen Fuji Superia Reala 100 oder Kodak Ektachrome 160t Die kleine ist mein Ein und alles. Bitte helft mir. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Nik -
Hello, actually on a trip in London , m’y m10 rangefinder suddenly stop coupling with my lenses. in fact, the little wheel wich get contact with the lens stays blocked on the infini. If I put it in thé right direction I can feel itsabnormaly hard to move. what happened ? CAN Ifix it by myself -? Is there a place in London where it could be fixed ? thank you for your help
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Hello all A few months back I finally fulfilled my dream and got myself the M 240. The digital Leica M body I always have wanted. So far it's been stunning experience and I love shooting with it. M 240 and SEM 21 are particularly a special combo together. What the M has brought me for the first time I truly enjoy shooting street photography. However, I have always enjoyed landscape shooting the most. I was aware of the drawbacks of M 240 when I purchased it. If you don't know what I am talking about I mean the following problems: - One minute maximum exposure = It's a disgrace to even call it bulb mode - No way to turn off LENR (Long exposure noise reduction) = practical disadvantage: try shooting fireworks when the guy next to you is going to get twice as many shots as you are - Long exposure with high ISO is even more limited = astrophotography is impossible - Inability to move the focus point on live view when zoomed in I am aware there are plenty of discussion about the aforementioned issues on these forums. As we all know anyone who is serious about landscape shooting these issues render the M almost useless. Which is in so many ways so sad. We are talking about a 6000 € camera, we have the best ultra wide lens ever (SEM 21) - and yet it can't be used to it's full potential because of these limitations. This makes me just sad. For me this is frustrating beyond all ways to describe it. To have the digital M body you always wanted, yet you are limited by such limitations. Right now I have three options: 1) Pray and hope Leica would release a firmware update to fix the issues (or perhaps a firmware hack could enable this? 2) Forget all kind of long exposure shooting with the M. 3) Get a second body for landscape shooting. Right now for me the only option would be the Sony A7r. Which I already owned once. Sad news at the time the performance with certain M wides was not acceptable. The good news now is by modifying the camera it appears we can get good performance even with SEM 21 (source: Diglloyd.com). Now I most certainly would not want to choose option number 2). So what I want to know is there a way we can reach Leica directly and get answers about these issues? Has Leica ever explained the reasoning to disable long exposures on the CMOSIS sensor? I simply can't believe an overheating would be a problem. If yes, how come no other camera manufacturer doesn't have the same problem? My guess is they want landscape shooters to invest into S-system. Or perhaps Leica's vision is perfection: hot pixels are not tolared. I say this because even the Leica T has the same technical limitation. And we all know the T has a Sony sensor which is perfectly capable for long exposures without any issues, yes again Leica has not allowed it. What ever the real reason for this is I find it ridiculous. Every DSLR I ever had (since Canon EOS 300D) has had a bulb mode. Hot pixels have never been a problem. And if they are turning LENR on removes the problem. I realize the game is probably lost by now for the M 240 and Leica is already probably working on the next generation M body. But I just want Leica to be at least aware of these drawbacks. And that the next generation Leica M body would not have such disadvantages for those who enjoy landscaping with Leica glass the most. M9 is not an option for me, because I think live view is a mandatory property for a landscape shooter. And I don't think I would be satisfied even with the 240 seconds. Any comments? Thank you for reading this... P.S. I am aware some folks seem to be bit over defensive when it comes to criticizing Leica M bodies here, but I truly believe these issues are serious drawbacks for each and everyone of us. And only together we have a chance to get answers from Leica. I certainly am hoping that a future firmware update is possible to fix some of these issues. -
I post this to see if anyone else have/had the same sensor issues with their M240 (M-P). I was playing around in Lightroom in November 2017, mainly testing different extreme values with the haze control, and other stuff to experiment with my photography. To my astonishment I saw a vertical line running exactly in the middle of the uncropped image. I then tested a photo from April 2015 that was taken with another M240 M-P body I had at that time. And the same vertical line appeared. I then randomly tested several other photos, and the same line appears, in virtually all photos, from both M-P bodies! I have a total of more than 20000 photos with M-P:s that in some or another way are affected by this problem. Attached here is an example of a jpg from M-P body 1, and one of M-P body 2, after tweakning the dng:s. The dng:s and full JPG:s can be downloaded to view through the links provided here: Link to DNG (M-P body 1): https://we.tl/FQQkFgKo7U Link to JPG (M-P body 1): https://we.tl/4BpPecbwmR Link to DNG (M-P body 2): https://we.tl/O2Kb9XKab7 Link to JPG (M-P body 2): https://we.tl/a3Vw2FUBYQ These images do not represent my photography (www.m9x.se), but they show the problem very clearly. So I went to my local Leica center in Stockholm who sent it to Leica in Germany. My lokal Leica dealer is fantastic by the way. I instructed Leica to test the way I had done in Lightroom doing the following: - adjust ”haze” to a the right - lower the value of vibrance - lower the value of saturation - set exposure to show a standard good histogram curve Leica concluded that the sensor ”function within tolerances”. They said: Both I and my lokal Leica dealer where astonished and very surprised. Separately we wrote to Leica. My dealer wrote this to Leica: To add to this, I told Leica that I would most likely post something on a forum to see if others have the same problem. To this Leica sent out a in-house alert message (that I mistakenly received a copy of) saying: Have I found an inherent problem with the sensor construction on the M240? To sum up: The vertical line appears in the exact same position in both bodys. This probably means it is an inherent problem in the construction of the sensor, or? My guess is that the sensor consists of two halves fused together, and that this fuse is not seamless (no, I do not know this, I am not a technician). The line appears in Lightroom (but also in C1Pro, Silver Efex Pro, ON1 Photo Raw). So it is not a matter of software. Although, in Lightroom (Leica´s preferred software) it appears much stronger than in C1P11. I have tested other cameras, and I cannot get a vertical line to appear in any images from them. I tested a GH4 heavily during the period my M-P was in Germany, as well as Ricoh GRii. And my old M9 did not have this problem, nor the even older Canon 5D. It is not a dead pixel problem. It is not banding. A camera that costs around 7000 Euro should not have this kind of sensor issue. A photographer/artist should be able to tweak a photo without a vertical line separating the image in two halves. There are many other competing camera makers nowadays. A camera company in 2018 should not act this way to faithful consumers. My Leica garage includes/included: R4, M9, M-P, 18/3.4, 28/2.8 Asph, 35/2 vers 4, two 50/1.4 Asph, 50/1.4, two 75/2 APO, 90/2.8, Digital flash SD20, etc… I am a devoted hobby photographer. I am not rich (not even close) and the expenses from Leica equipment means less of other things in my life. But I have spent 25000 Euro on Leica products through the years. I do not make any money on photography. I have used Leica for the love of their products. But maybe not som much anymore, to which I am very sad. Any one out there that has had the same problem?
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Hello fellow Leica Q owners I seem to be unable to use my Leica Q in AF mode. The MF sign is constant in the top right corner of the EVF/LCD and no matter what I choose in the Menu I am unable to activate AF. I am stuck and frustrated. User error or technical glitch? Any ideas welcome cheers William
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I love my Leica SL with 24-90 AF lens and especially all my "old" R glass! The only problem I have is that one of the 4 menu control/function buttons does not work as smoothly as the other 3. Does any of you Leica SL users have the same/similar experience?
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Hello, It's my first post on the forum, so a quick introduction: I live in Amsterdam and I'm the very proud owner of an M6 and an M3, the latter recently acquired seemingly in tip-top shape, serial 1 034 xxx. I've discovered a strange issue though, that I've yet to find a reference to on the forum or the web at large: it seems I can wind the shutter and shoot without encountering any resistance well past the frame 40 (where the counter stops). This of course is with 36 positions film loaded properly (Ilford XP2 and HP5+), as the two red dots keep turning until about frame 36-7 or so. After that, the dots no longer turn, but the shutter winds/cocks and shoots without issues, the frame advances to 40 and the stops, and I can still keep going at it. Miffed, I switch to R and rewind the film back into the canister. I can clearly hear the film moving inside, and finally there's a slight tension (but just ever so slight) followed by a much freer, lighter movement of the rewind knob which makes it clear that film's wound all in. Indeed taking out the canister shows it is. This happened twice already with both films I've shot on the camera. What could be happening? My M6 clearly doesn't allow me to keep on winding like a madman, reaching the end of the film prevents the winder to work, lest the film be broken off the canister. My only speculation is that the teeth engaging the sprockets are very slippery and just won't pull the film at some point, preferring to slip. Could this have anything to do with my not winding back the film a little bit during loading, before shooting frames -2 and -1? Please, any thoughts! Kind regards, Radu
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I usually only shoot Photos with my M240 but yesterday I needed to shoot a few minutes of video with my M240 on a tripod and a 35mm lens but the camera stopt filming evry single time after only a few seconds... Made several attempts and checked all possible settings but found no solution. Can someone tell me what I might be doing wrong? Help is really appreciated! Thanx in advance, Marten Root
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Hello, my grandfather recently gave my his beloved Leica R3 with two lenses. But this beauty got two problems. First the advance leaver won't work from time to time. It seem that he doesn't get grip to the advance mechanism sometimes. Advancing usually works just fine but what the leaver is losing grip I have to move him approximately a hundert times till I'm able to cock the camera again. The second issue is the electrics, If no batteries are insert the B and the X mode ( 1/90 ) are just working fine. But as soon as I insert a pair of LR44, SR 44 or AG3 the shutter opens and stay open no matter what time is set on the R3es shutter dial. And the shutters stays open until I remove the batteries. I just want to know, if its possible to fix it easily or if i have to contact the Leica support for this and how much the costs could be. Greetings from Germany
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Hallo, mich beschäftigen zwei Probleme mit meiner M6, Seriennummer 2296237 und damit Bj. 1997. Ich war mit der Kamera bereits im Leica Shop in Wien, natürlich trat der bekannte Vorführeffekt ein und sie tat, was sie tun sollte. Die Batterie ist neu und wurde schon mehrmals gewechselt um eine mögliche Fehlerquelle auszuschließen, Kontakte wurden gereinigt. Zeitenwahlrad, sowie das "Iso-Rad" wurden mehrmals gedreht. Problem 1: Der Belichtungsmesser spinnt manchmal. Das äußert sich unterschiedlich, ich beschreibe einfach mal ein paar Szenarien. Er funktioniert, doch sobald etwas Zeit verstrichen ist ohne ein Foto zu schießen und die roten Pfeile ausgehen, gehen sie bei weiterer Berührung des Auslöseknopfes nicht mehr an. Ich muss das Zeitenwahlrad wieder auf B stellen und dann wieder zur gewünschten Belichtungszeit, dann sehe ich die roten Pfeile wieder. Er funktioniert, ich mache ein Foto. Will ein weiteres machen, die roten Pfeile sind nicht mehr zu sehen. Wieder das Zeitenwahlrad auf B stellen und dann wieder auf die gewünschte Belichtungszeit. Manchmal bleibt ein roter Pfeil "hängen" (ändert sich nicht mehr) und erst ein "Neustart" (Zeitenwahlrad auf behebt das Problem. Es kommt auch vor, dass die Pfeile sehr schwach leuchten, als ob die Batterie leer wäre. Ein "Neustart" löst auch dieses Problem. Problem 2: Dieses Problem passiert äußerst selten. Der Teil des Messsuchers, mit dem man scharf stellt (mir ist die Bezeichnung entfallen) funktioniert nicht. Dann hat das Feld quasi eine leicht "bronzene" Farbe. Objektiv runter und wieder rauf lösen das Problem, bzw einfach neu einrasten. Ich hoffe, dass vielleicht jemand im Forum schon einmal ähnliche Probleme hatte, oder Rat hat. Danke euch! -
Habe eine M240 gebraucht gekauft (Leicavertretung) Ich hatte bereits schon eine M240 gehabt und bin mit dem Modell erfahren. Folgendes Problem tritt auf: Die Zeitautomatik spinnt (oder habe ich eine Einstellungn drin, von der ich nichts weiss?) In einer Testreihe mt einem Sumarit 50mm (Objektiv arbeitet einwandfei, mit anderen Optiken dasselbe Problem) Blende 2, 4, 8, 16 und Zeitrad auf A extreme Überbelichtung von Blende 2 bis auf verträgliche Belichtung von Blende 16 - obwohl während der Messung und in der Bildinfo die Zeiten passend zur Blende angezeigt werden (mit einer M9 verglichen) Beispielsweise Blende 2 mit 1/1.500sec usw. lösen diese Zeiten offensichtlich nicht aus. Hingegen lösen lange Zeiten bei Testbildern in einem Zimmer wiederum mit f 2, 4, 8, 16 bis 1/90sec korrekt aus. Auch nach Zurücksetzen auf Werkeinstellung bleibt das Problem. Ich nehme an, dass die Camera einen Schuss weg hat und bringe sie zurück, ist ja Garantie... usw. Meine Frage ist aber kennt jemand das Problem? Gibt es Erfahrungen dazu? Habe das Netz durchforscht und nichts dazu gefunden. (Ein Beispielbild offene Blende, kurze Zeit in Sucher und Info angezeigt - stimmt nicht, totale Überbelichtung)
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I made a search, but found nothing about that. Yesterday I performed a sensor cleaning on my M 240. The battery was fully charged. I had on the screen the correct "when you're finished switch off the camera" or similar message and the shutter opened. I performed the cleaning with the swab gently and quickly as I did tenths of time on my M8. When I finished and switched of the camera, instead of seeing the shutter closing, I had this message: "Stop immediately the sensor cleaning". Then after a couple seconds the shutter closed. I had the same problem months ago when performing the same. Yesterday, after the cleaning, I took some picture to check and anything was ok. Anybody else had this problem? Any suggestions? Since the Leica shop in my town is a couple blocks from my flat, maybe I will go there and see what they say. Thank you for attention. Al the best, Enrico
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Maybe this has been discussed before, but I wasn't able to find an answer. When I want to record a video, I set focus, aperture and shutter time, then press the video button, but recording goes on for few seconds and then stops before I can press again the button. This happens also using LV, I can't record more than 3-4 seconds. The battery is fully charged and the 32Gb card is empty. Am I missing something? Probably yes. Thank you for any help.
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What newer cards are reliable ? I lost 1/2 a shoot for the 3rd time this year. I am getting a bit paranoid because Lexar image rescue5 could not recover any of the files even after several attempts. While shooting I always randomly check on the LCD but then there is nothing on the card - how is that even possible ?
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Hello dear reader, This is my first post @L-Camera, and I was wondering if someone could give me some advice and help me out. I bought the D-Lux 4 a couple of years ago, so now I'm out of range of the warranty.. :-( I started to have a problem with the display, like the display would loose connection and it goes black. This started to be more and more frequent, and now my display is almost the whole time black...so I don't really see what I shoot.. :-0 I wanted to ask your advice here, especially if someone else had the same problem, before I send it in to repair.. I like to thank you in advanvce for your precious help Best regards Michele
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Hey guys! I have a serious problem. I got an used M2 in very good condition from my grandfather as a present. I'm in Australia right now. I wanted to take photos of a waterfall and I accidentally slipped off a rock. I had the camera on a strap for sure but it hit the rock. I'm happy the lens is ok and everything still works except for the Viewfinder. It's black but I still can see the framelines and change them with the lever. I know it's a common problem. The prism is seperated because of the old Canada Balm. Now I have two options...1. I can try to find someone who's able to put it together again and resilver the prism. I'm originally from Germany and there is no one who can do that so I must send it to youxin ye or someone else. The second option is to send it to Leica and get a new fiewfinder. I think they use an M6 Viewfinder for this. I love it there are only 3 different framelines in the old finder. The M6 finder has 6 framelines I think. 28/90, 35/135 and 50/75mm paired together. Now my question : do anyone know if I can use these framelines and all the lenses if I get this finder? Or cant the measurer in the bayonett automatically recognize all the lenses? I think they change nothing on the measurer...I hope you know what I mean. Did someone have the same problem and can give me some Infos on that? Thanks in advance! Greetings Thore Saggau
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Leica Q - After only 10 days i have this "problem" on rear Screen Display LCD. The Screen clicks when lightly pressed like its not glued properly. Problem is mostly on center and left side. https://youtu.be/UYRKpRCBy_E In the first days screen was ok, i have used Leica sporadically in this period and only for test's shoots in home; so no intensive. I don't know if is a normal plastic noise, but in my opinion it's strange that during the first days it was ok. Opinions or experiences !?!
