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  1. Dear M10 Friends and Users: I am wondering if any one has tried to use the Lightpix Flash Q20 with the digital Leica M. If you are not aware, Lightpix Flash Q20 is a cheap and wireless method of using flash with cameras. Here's a video on Youtube. From the FlickR page, I found this photo but not sure if they actually used the flash with the camera! Look forward to your responses. I am not affiliated with this company in any way.
  2. Wie sind denn Eure Erfahrungen mit der Akkulaufzeit? Auch, wie sich die Verwendung des Visoflex auswirkt. Mich würde interessieren, wie sich die M10 im Vergleich zur doch recht schwachbrüstigen M9 schlägt. Auf Urlaubsreisen reicht bei mir eine Akkuladung gerade mal einen Tag, wenn man die Aufnahmen öfters mal hinsichtl. Clipping/Ausschnitt/Schärfe kontrolliert (insgesamt wohl nicht mehr als 120-200 Aufnahmen). Danke.
  3. Liebe L F B - Freunde, hiermit laden wir Euch recht herzlich zum 16. Berliner Leica Fotografen Treffen am Donnerstag den 16.11.2017 ab 18:30 Uhr ein. Wir treffen uns wieder im: Restaurant Berliner Hof Hildegardstr. 14 10715 Berlin (Wilmersdorf) http://restaurant-berliner-hof.de/ Zum letzten Treffen des Jahres 2017 werden wir keinen Einzelvortrag anbieten, sondern möchten Euch darum bitten, das jeder Teilnehmer 2 Prints mit bringt. Dabei ist es Euch überlassen, in der Auswahl des Themas, ob der ideelle oder fotografische Gesichtspunkt überwiegt. Im Sinne der Vorweihnachtszeit sollte die Geschichte des Bildes im Vordergrund stehen. Der Wirt des Berliner Hofes bot mir ein Gänsekeule Essen an. Darum bitte ich die Teilnehmer, mit der Anmeldung zu sagen, ob Ihr das möchtet, oder wie immer à la carte bestellt. Meldet Euch bitte per Mail (LFB@mail.de) an, wenn Ihr teilnehmen möchtet. In der Reihenfolge der Anmeldungen erhaltet Ihr dann wie immer, eine Bestätigungsmail als verbindliche Zusage. Sollte jemand kurzfristig verhindert sein, so ruft mich bitte an oder mailt an den LFB und sagt ab, damit andere nachrücken können. Meldeschluss ist der 14.November 2017, bis 18:00 Uhr, da ich dann die verbindliche Teilnehmerzahl melden muss. Liebe Grüße Klaus und Cord
  4. Just got the M10 on Fri. and it seems like in a few shots with highlights that are 2-3 stops over clip I get these bands that bleed out from them as dark lines. (Yes I know I'm not supposed to overexpose that much but sometimes there are 18K's pointed at windows, and I do have lower exposed frames that are fine). I read a thread earlier suspecting that this was the highlights bleeding into the black balance area because of an improper sensor seal. So is this just an M10 thing or do I need to demand a replacement? Other than that I'm smitten with the camera!
  5. OK, I'll admit it I'm a bit nutty for Summicrons. I have the 35mm ASPH the 50mm classic and the recently I found a 40mm (from the CL) for a measly $450 on fleabay. OK you say, why? You have two perfectly good lenses that actually have matching frame lines on your M10. There are two very good reasons I can come up with, the first is size. The lens is downright diminutive. It takes the M10 from small mirrorless to large point and shoot. It's now suitable for stuffing in a Billingham Aeva 5 pouch and throwing on a belt even for casual nights out or chasing the kids around the playground. Number 2 is it's actually a spectacular little lens with all the character and sharpness you could ever ask for. I'm actually finding it perfect for environmental portraiture and general street pics. It's also well suited to making multiple image panorama stitches with it's natural perspective. More than anything though it's just a pretty lens and it can do about 80% of the job of both a 35mm and a 50mm as well as have it's own character. OK so how do you frame it? Honestly it's not hard, the 50mm frame lines come up with it attached and I just imagine the frame is just outside those lines and I'm pretty close. For those instances where precise framing is necessary I always have live view. lastly I have great little Minolta double asphere close up diopter that I've adapted and this makes the little 40mm perfect for certain macro shots (especially watches and camera gear).
  6. I posted these two pictures in the Summaron-M f/5.6 28mm thread and several people liked the first one better. First, this is a restaurant called Da Conch Shack on Providenciales, an island in Turks & Caicos. The man in both pictures is the same waiter. (I used the new Sumaron-28 and the M10). At first, when I examined in Lightroom the pictures shot that day, I instantaneously selected the second picture as the one to process, like selecting a frame from a contact sheet of a roll of 35mm film. After that I went on to process the first picture, which I liked less. However, when deciding which picture to post to my flickr site, I selected the first picture because I thought viewers would like it more because, overall, it's a pleasing composition in terms of balance, the top window not being cut off, and giving more of what people often call a "sense of place" — it is also a prettier scene: I'm using the word "prettier" intentionally here. Nevertheless, I kept on looking at the second picture and continued to feel that it's a better photograph: a more dynamic composition, and I liked the oranges in the sand, at the bottom of the frame, against the blues in the image; but, most strikingly, I liked the gesture of the tree matching the gesture of the man, "gesture" in the sense of attitude, as in a "gesture drawing." For me, the second image says more and says it more forcefully — more meaning and more expression. In this sense, the chair in the left bottom foreground I see helpful rather than, as many might feel, unneeded. Generally, my feeling is that, in judging images, our instantaneous first choice is, in most cases, likely to be the right one — the right one for ourselves, that is. Which picture do you prefer, and why? _______________ Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine
  7. Just a short two and a half months ago I purchased my first Leica (M10) and haven't looked back. Never in my lifetime have I made such a sizable purchase AND not feel an ounce of buyer's remorse - the experience has been that good. Even though I am no photographer I do understand that the M10 is like any other tool: it has its primary applications and was designed to do certain things well, not all things well. So the question is: if you own the M10, do you pair it with another body when you travel? If you do, which one(s) and what are your reasons for doing so?
  8. I picked up my M10 today (happy as a child), but got annoyed during the unpacking of the camera. De plastic foil protecting the cover plate as kinda attached to it. And with attached I mean it literally. When I removed it, the plastic came of, but the glue not so much. Nothing a bit of warm water and mild detergent couldn't solve (no pun intended). The attached photo shows the problem. Everything shiny is the glue. Anyone else experienced this? I reported it to the dealer, and they said they would take it up the chain.
  9. Liebe L F B - Freunde, hiermit laden wir Euch recht herzlich zum 15. Berliner Leica Fotografen Treffen am Freitag den 15.09.2017 ab 18:30 Uhr ein. Wir treffen uns wieder im: Restaurant Berliner Hof Hildegardstr. 14 10715 Berlin (Wilmersdorf) http://restaurant-berliner-hof.de/ Wir bieten einen Foto Vortrag an: Cord Müller : Ein Langzeitprojekt deutscher Bratwurstimbissanhänger und eine Hardware Entwicklung: Andreas Neubauer: Kamera / Sensor - Reinigung. Absaugen anstatt ausblasen Andreas wird eine Eigenentwicklung einer Absaugung ( kleine Pumpe) vorstellen ! Meldet Euch bitte per Mail (LFB@mail.de) an, wenn Ihr teilnehmen möchtet. In der Reihenfolge der Anmeldungen erhaltet Ihr dann eine Bestätigungsmail als verbindliche Zusage. Sollte jemand kurzfristig verhindert sein, so ruft mich bitte an oder mailt an den LFB und sagt ab, damit andere nachrücken können. Meldeschluss ist der 13.September 2017, bis 18:00 Uhr, da ich dann die verbindliche Teilnehmerzahl melden muss. Nach der Terminbestätigung der Eurofighter Geschwader Fotografie am 20.09.2017 habe ich die Nachricht bekommen, das wir ca. 10 Tage vorher über die genaue Uhrzeit informiert werden. Leider ist es nicht früher möglich, da die Flugpläne dann erstellt werden. Ich informiere Euch sofort. Es wäre schön wenn alle Teilnehmer des Eurofighter Events am LFB Treffen teilnehmen könnten, damit wir uns abstimmen können, u.a. über die An / und Abfahrt. Liebe Grüße Klaus und Cord
  10. Does anyone know if it's possible to GPS tag images by using a smartphone's GPS? In theory it should be: M10 connected to iphone via Bluetooth iPhone sends GPS info to M10 M10 adds this to the exif of each image I bought the EVF solely for GPS; but now I'm thinking of returning it, because it blocks the shutter dial partially, and just isn't in line with how a rangefinder is supposed to be used (and I would never use the EVF), in my opinion. But connecting through a smartphone makes sense and is far more elegant.
  11. The 24MP images were scaled (bicubic smoother) to match the 42MP of the Sony so that any differences would be obvious. Identical sharpening was added in RAW conversion on output. This represents a 200% view. So resolution wise I see A7rII>M10>A9. The M10 seems to have absolutely no AA filter and is prone to a little moire, but it’s easily fixable in ACR/Lightroom. However it's coming amazingly close to the rII with nearly 2x the photosites. The rII seems to have a weak AA filter, so moire is visible only in extreme blow ups but also easily fixable. The A9 seems to have a moderate AA filter and is the lowest resolution, but no Moire at all. The Leica seems like the cleanest of the three, although the noise is minimal on all of them. Full frame for reference...
  12. I am not sure if this is lack of my knowledge but in the setup I defined metering mode as follows: INFO summary displays: ... what suggests that I rather defined "Center-weighted" than "Spot". Any ideas?
  13. Hallo, Weis hier jemand ob es eine Möglichkeit gibt in der App ( Iphone ) alle Fotos zu markieren um diese herunterladen zu können? Bis jetzt muss ich jedes Foto einzeln markieren und dann kann ich alle herunterladen. Das ist super umständlich, gerade wenn es viele aufnahmen sind.
  14. Has anyone checked out the new Peak Design Leash strap with an M10. The camera attachments are now smaller to get through the camera lugs. I like the concept and the company quotes that the loops are very strong however I've just got that niggle in the back of my mind. Regards, Les
  15. https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2018/07/09/beautiful-catastrophe-074/ 2017 © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo​ M10, 35'cron
  16. Hi. Used a Leitz M39 to Leica m Adapter on my M10 with a summaron 35/2.8 lens. The rangefinder coupling is not working and my M10 terminates the liveview witin seconds and sets back the manual lens selection to ‚auto‘. Does anybody have an explanation/solution? Thx a lot!
  17. (Following up my post in the Iceland thread with this separate thread since the discussion has moved away from Iceland): JTLeica asked: "I dont mean this as a dig, but I would love to know what you do with your A7RIII images that you cannot do with your Leica images... Being someone that shot an A7RII for two years." First, to reiterate what I posted above and many times before in the forum, I love my Leica, the plurality of my disposable income goes to Leica, and I shoot more often with my M10 or my CL than with any other camera (including my phone). In fact I brought my M10 with me into work today, like I do most days, whether or not I expect to run into any apparent photogenic subject matter. But I am also objective enough to call it like I see it, and from my perspective—consistent with many other observations and data, including some postings in LUF—the A7rIII offers some real *imaging* advantages. That doesn't mean that the a7rIII is overall a "better" camera (I carry the M10 daily, not the A7rIII, after all), as it's not so black and white. Size, fun factor, and other considerations weigh in as well. But since you asked about imaging, here are some advantages I've seen with the A7rIII over the M10, which includes many comparisons using the best native lenses for each system, as well as using the same M lenses on both the M10 and the A7rIII: 1) Cropping capability and detail. As you might expect, having 42 MP vs. 24 MP means you have significantly more cropping flexibility and can show more detail. Here are two photos taken with the A7rIII that are a 10 MP crop and a 16 MP crop out of the 42 MP original: https://www.dropbox.com/s/8hfrphgligas10s/Sony%20a7riii%2010.3%20MP%20crop.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/fdnqbuf3yboik1d/Sony%20a7riii%2016%20MP%20crop.jpg?dl=0 There's not much else in the original frames that I liked. If I had taken the same photos with a 24 MP camera, even ignoring the other imaging advantages listed below, the same crops would have been 5.9 MP (6" wide printed at 300 dpi), and 9 MP (10" wide @ 300 dpi). I appreciate that for some viewing or printing formats, even a 5.9 MP image is fine. But for printing beyond small size, or viewing on a 15 MP display like the 5K monitor that I'm using now, it's not ideal. As a related point, 42 MP also helps when capturing details is important. Here's a comparison of a test subject: A7rIII + 85 GM @ f/5.6: https://www.dropbox.com/s/inb8frdf7hkf8we/85%20GM%20at%205.6%20on%20a7riii%20center.jpg?dl=0 M10 + 75 Noctilux @ f/5.6 (about the sharpest a Leica M lens gets): https://www.dropbox.com/s/oru79iyb5alqbrt/75%20Noct%20at%205.6%20on%20M10%20center.jpg?dl=0 A7rIII + 75 Noctilux @ f/5.6: https://www.dropbox.com/s/hrcdu83gcs7fi9o/75%20Noct%20at%205.6%20on%20a7riii%20center.jpg?dl=0 To my eye, the A7rIII shots capture much more detail, either using the native Sony lens, or using the 75 Noctilux. 2) Noise and ISO performance. Consistent with other reports, at higher ISOs (>5000), the combination of a brighter frame for the A7rIII even at the same ISO setting as the M10 (see other LUF posts that have extensively discussed this topic), and an inherently less noisy sensor, I get about 1.5 stops more ISO latitude with the A7rIII than with the M10. What might be less publicized is that even at lower ISOs I see substantially less noise with the A7rIII. Here are two images of the same subject using the 75 noctilux. The M10 photo was taken at ISO 800, and the A7rIII photo was taken at ISO 1000. Yet the sensor noise in the out-of-focus wall areas is actually lower for the A7rIII photo than the M10 photo: https://www.dropbox.com/s/wa65iut21uoslcc/75%20Noct%20at%201.25%20on%20M10%20center.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/rp6y0x4unk0hs1t/75%20Noct%20at%201.25%20on%20Sony%20a7riii%20center.JPG?dl=0 3) Color. The M10 photos using AWB generally come out more yellow than real life, while the A7rIII photos using AWB are usually closer to real life in my experience. The wall color in the above two photos is a good example—the actual color of the wall is very close to the A7rIII capture (rust-colored, not ochre-orange). I routinely fix this in post, but I'd rather not have to. 4) Raw file headroom at the top end. The M10's DNG files leave almost no room for highlight recovery. The raw files of the A7rIII, like the various Nikons's I've shot in the past (D700, D800E, D810, D810A, D4, D4s) all offer quite a bit more room for highlight recovery. Again, for most situations I enjoy shooting the M10 more than any other camera, which is why I use the M10 more frequently and own more M10 gear than Sony gear. But my love for Leica does not cross into blind fanaticism (despite what my wife says!), and when shooting under conditions for which the above imagining strengths of the A7rIII are critical, I take the Sony instead. These findings are also reasons why I'm excited by the rumors that Leica continues to release new full-frame cameras. If the rumored C-M has a sensor and/or software that addresses any of the above issues, I will buy it, along with its native lenses.
  18. Posted here in the M10 forum, but relevant to any interested in the Leica Stemar lens: https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/286779-a-complete-3d-photography-solution-for-the-modern-leica-m/?p=3558981
  19. A complete 3D photography solution for the modern Leica M [see this PDF file for the document with images embedded: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kozoefabfsoa95u/Leica%20Stereophotography%20Quest.pdf?dl=0 ] I became interested in developing a 3D photography (stereophotography) capturing and viewing solution for the modern Leica M—one that does not require special glasses or projectors, or crossing your eyes. This quest was ultimately successful, and I've been really impressed with the quality of the resulting 3D images, and amazed by how much the depth axis adds to the impact and compositional possibilities of photography. This article documents my findings, and provides a how-to guide for those interested in doing the same. As many of you know, Leica prototyped in the 1940s and produced in the 1950s a remarkable stereophotography lens, the Stemar (stereo Elmar), code OISBO. The lens consists of two side-by-side mini-lenses, with a single lever to control the aperture of both lenses. The focal lens of the production lenses is 33 mm, with a maximum aperture of f/3.5. About 1,571 Stemar lenses were made. [see this PDF file for the document with images embedded: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kozoefabfsoa95u/Leica%20Stereophotography%20Quest.pdf?dl=0 ] The Stemar comes in two mounts: LTM (screw mount) or M-mount. Of course the LTM version can be adapted to the M-mount with a Leica or third-party LTM-to-M adapter. The photographs taken by the Stemar divide the 24x36 mm frame into a 18x24 mm left half and a 18x24 mm right half, with each lens generating an image on each half of the film. Because the lenses are offset by ~1 inch, each half of the pair of images if sent to each of your eyes will result in the perception of a 3D image. The greater the offset, the greater the stereo effect. Leica also produced a prism that attaches to the end of the Stemar lens, increasing the left-right offset distance to about 3 inches, similar to that of adult human eyes. Taking photos with the prism attachment greatly increases the 3D effect, but also makes viewing the photos a bit more difficult, especially if the subject was captured at a short distance from the camera. The rear of the Stemar lens is unusual to say the least. Protruding from the center of the rear of the lens is a rather thick black divider with many grooved light traps, which prevents each of the lens's images from intruding on the other half of the film. [see this PDF file for the document with images embedded: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kozoefabfsoa95u/Leica%20Stereophotography%20Quest.pdf?dl=0 ] The Stemar was of course designed for film use. To view the stereophotos was a cumbersome process. One had to develop the film, then place the prints or slides in special illuminated stereo goggle viewers (offered by Leica as well), or in special projectors that send differently polarized light through each half of the stereopair, coupled with polarized glasses worn by the viewers. It was a complex and, generally, an individual experience. Perhaps for this reason, the demand for stereophotography didn’t endure, and after about 1957 Leica stopped producing the Stemar. Some of us, especially those trained in the molecular life sciences in the late 20th century, have trained our eyes to view side-by-side stereopairs without any special glasses by simply crossing our eyes. With practice, this process is very fast, but suffers from several drawbacks. The resulting image appears as a triple image: a ghostly image to the left, a ghostly image to the right, and a stereoimage in the middle. So the 3D image is not seen free of distracting flat/ghostly copies of the image immediately left and right of the 3D image. Moreover, the process causes some eye strain. Finally, some people just cannot train their eyes to see stereoimages this way, and give up, usually with a headache. Obtaining and modifying a Leica Stemar lens The first step is to obtain a Stemar lens and modify it to work on the M10. The Stemar has not been manufactured for more than 60 years. As such, obtaining one is not trivial, but also not difficult. Several are usually for sale on eBay, with others available through camera dealers and even some Leica stores that deal in used equipment. Expect to pay around $3,000-4,000 USD (as of this writing) for a good, fully working, fairly clean copy of an LTM-mount Stemar. The M-mount versions are more rare and typically more expensive. Mine was an LTM mount lens, which I adapted using an inexpensive Leitz LTM-to-M adapter. One important note is that unlike other lenses, the precise extent to which the Stemar is screwed into the adapter (or into the screw-mount leica camera) is critical, because if it is over-screwed or under-screwed the two lenses will not be properly aligned with respect to the horizon, and the two halves of the stereopair will be displaced vertically. Your brain can compensate for a small amount of displacement, but proper horizontal alignment of the lenses is desirable. In the first of three problems I encountered adapting the Stemar to the M10, when screwed into the authentic Leitz LTM adapter and mounted on my M10, my Stemar was rotated too far clockwise. The Stemar has two adjustment screws which, when loosened, allow precise rotational adjustment of the lenses, but the possible range of this adjustment is modest, exceeding the extent to which the lens was rotated excessively clockwise. So I wrapped a thin layer of teflon tape around the Stemar’s threads, which prevented over-screwing the lens into the adapter, and fixed the problem completely. The second problem adapting the Stemar to the M10 is that the bulky protrusion at the rear of the lens means your M-mount lens caps won’t fit. Except, that is, for the Leitz/Leica rear lens cap (IROOW) designed for the Leica 21/3.4 Super-Angulon-M and the 28/2.8 Elmarit-M. You can get a third-party version of these rear caps for about $15, or a genuine one for about $100, from eBay. The third challenge adapting the Stemar to the M10 was a bit trickier to overcome. If you look at the photo showing the rear of the Stemar lens, you’ll notice that the corners of the central divider are truncated. This truncation allows the rear divider to not collide with the stiff “curtains” above and below the shutter when the lens is mounted on or taken off. On the M10, the corners of the divider are not sufficiently cut (at least in the case of my LTM-adapted Stemar) and the divider therefore rubs against the top and bottom curtains above and below the shutter when you mount or unmount the lens, especially if the rear element is fully extended, which occurs when the lens is focused at infinity. Fortunately, the fix is quite easy. If you look at the photo of the rear of the Stemar above, you’ll notice that the central divider is secured with two flat-head screws, one of which is visible in the photo. If you unscrew these screws, central divider simply slides out from between the two curved “wings”. One simply needs to shave a bit more from the corners from the divider, which is flat black-painted metal (aluminum?), after removing the divider from the lens. This can be done in minutes with sandpaper and a hard table, or in seconds with a Dremel. I removed about 2 mm from each corner. I then painted the sanded-down corners with flat-black enamel, then remounted the divider into the rear of the Stemar with the two screws. The result looks clean, as you can see in the photo below showing the modified Stemar mounted in the LTM-to-M adapter. [see this PDF file for the document with images embedded: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kozoefabfsoa95u/Leica%20Stereophotography%20Quest.pdf?dl=0 ] Taking stereophotos with the M10 + modified Stemar Now for the fun part! The Stemar once modified in this way works very well with a digital Leica M (in this case, the M10) in Live View mode. The rangefinder focusing of this lens works as any Leica M lens, and the small aperture of the Stemar means even approximate zone focusing is sufficient in most cases. Automatic exposure WITHOUT Live View does NOT work, as the central divider interferes with metering, causing many stops of overexposure. But Live View automatic exposure works very well, and I would recommend using Live View for precise framing of your stereophotos regardless, because framing a stereopair can be tricky since the framing of each half is slightly different. Of course the Stemar is not 6-bit coded, and as has been previously documented, digital M cameras may behave oddly when trying to determine if a lens is mounted. You can overcome these issues by setting lens autodetection to Off or, in some cases, Manual. It is also possible that using a third-party LTM-to-M adapter that supports 6-bit coding will work, but I haven’t tested this approach. All stereophotos taken with the Stemar will be of vertical (portrait) orientation framing, as rotating the camera sideways produces an up-down pair instead of a left-right pair that cannot be used for stereophotography. However, when rotated the M10+Stemar could be used in a pinch as 12 MP resolution camera that takes two slightly offset photos at a 33 mm (not 66 mm) focal length equivalent. The Stemar lens is sharp at any aperture (f/3.5-11), fairly contrasty, low-distortion and renders with very nice colors. Bokeh isn’t really a consideration since the widest aperture is f/3.5, but I did not find the few out-of-focus areas to be unusually distracting. The prism attachment will vignette the upper left corner of the left image and the upper right corner of the right image, but it’s usually not noticeable when viewing unless you look for it. You’ll also lose some light (maybe half a stop) with the prism attachment, but the stereo effect is much stronger with the prism attached, and I recommend using it for all photos taken at more than about 5 feet away. Here are a few sample photos taken with the M10 and modified Stemar (postprocessing only for color and exposure adjustment): [see this PDF file for the document with images embedded: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kozoefabfsoa95u/Leica%20Stereophotography%20Quest.pdf?dl=0 ] Viewing high-quality stereophotos without glasses Without a high-quality, convenient, portable viewing system, it is difficult to appreciate and share stereophotos. After some searching, I found a solution that works remarkably well. Best of all, it costs only ~$140, making it perhaps the least expensive accessory for a Leica that I own A little-known (at least in the West) Android smartphone called the Elephone P8 3D provides an amazing, glasses-free, projector-free, eye-crossing-free way to view your stereophotos in bright, high-resolution, broad color spectrum 3D. As far as I can tell, the easiest way to get the phone is through eBay. It will cost about $140 USD, shipped from Asia. Here’s what the phone looks like from the front and rear: [see this PDF file for the document with images embedded: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kozoefabfsoa95u/Leica%20Stereophotography%20Quest.pdf?dl=0 ] The Elephone P8 3D has an excellent, modern display, with 1920x1080 resolution at 428 ppi on a 5.5” IPS LCD. The color rendering after you tweak the settings as I describe below is excellent, as evidenced by comparing the unadjusted iPhone photo of the Elephone’s screen displaying the photo of Lori’s Diner with the actual photo of Lori’s Diner shown above. More importantly for this application, it has an amazing lenticular display feature that, when activated, will show a different image to your left and right eyes, apparently at very high resolution, without requiring any special headwear. In practice, with the tweaks described below, this works astoundingly well, and allows comfortable, bright, colorful, minimally ghosted, 3D image viewing of the Stemar photos shot on your M10. First, you need to make a few settings adjustments on the Elephone. The English on the phone is questionable, so here are the settings to change: 1) Home (the middle button at the bottom of the phone) > Settings > Display > Miravision: change saturation, contrast, and brightness to taste. For me, I increased saturation substantially to match the M10 and my computer displays. 2) Home > Settings > Display > 3DSetting: 3D Service Setting ON, View Point Setting 1. This unhelpful named setting controls, I think, the angle of display into each eye. I find Setting 1 to be more comfortable and ghost-free, but given that everyone’s eye spacing is different, you may want to test both. 3) Connect the phone to the internet over WiFi (Home > Settings > Wi-Fi). Open the “3D Media” app. Now this next step is critical. The app asks you to hold the phone horizontally (landscape orientation) and to look at the 3D picture of a cyclist on a road running through mountains. There are two buttons on-screen: NOT CLEAR and CLEAR (also very confusingly named). There’s a high likelihood that the image as shown is “clear”, meaning that the 3D effect works as intended. But you actually want to lie and press “NOT CLEAR”, which causes the phone to swap the images being sent to your left and right eyes. The cyclist photo will now appear fairly flat, a bit messed up, and not very 3D. This is because when the visual depth cues in the content of a photo disagree with the stereoscopic depth cues from differences between your left and right eye images, your brain interprets the image as flat-ish, rather than backwards. Which is a really cool piece of biology, by the way. The reason we want to tell the Elephone that the images need to be reversed is because the convention by which the Leica Stemar puts the left and right eye images on the sensor is the opposite of the convention used by most modern stereopairs. Out-of-camera Stemar images need to be viewed with the “cross-eyed” orientation, such that the left half of the stereopair is sent to the right eye, and the right half is sent to the left eye. Most modern 3D displays (including VR headsets like the Oculus Rift and HTC Vive) simply send the left image to your left eye, and the right image to your right eye. Fortunately, telling the Elephone that the cyclist image is “NOT CLEAR” causes the phone into swapping the left/right orientation. The result is that the default 3D images that came with the phone will look flat-ish and messed up, but all your Stemar images will be clear and 3D. Once the 3D Media app is properly set, all that’s left to do is to transfer your M10’s Stemar photos to the phone. There are several ways to do this, but I prefer using Dropbox: 1) Download the (free) Dropbox app from the Google Play store, log in to Dropbox, and navigate to your folder containing your Stemar images (DNG or JPG both work). 2) Tap the check box icon in the upper right of the screen. This allows you to select multiple files. Check all the ones you want to transfer to the Elephone. 3) Once selected, tap the “three dots” icon in the upper right of the screen, then tap Save to Device. 4) Choose a folder (I recommend the “Download” folder). All checked files will download to that folder. 5) Now open the 3D Media app. The photos should appear below the thick grey line on the screen. The first time you open a Stemar photo in 3D Media, you have to adjust the settings of that photo as follows: 1) Hold the phone horizontally (landscape orientation) 2) Tap on the photo until the five buttons at the bottom of the screen appear. 3) Tap “Format” and then tap on “Clear” (again, the English is terrible). The other choices are as follows: “2D” allows you to view the entire Stemar frame normally, with both the left and right halves of the stereopair. “Normal” is terrible and stretches the photo to fill the frame. For proper 3D viewing, “Clear” is the best setting. Once you set each new photo to “Clear”, then the Elephone remembers to use that setting whenever you view that photo, so fortunately this setting only needs to be done one time per photo. Finally, seeing the full photo necessarily comes with letterboxing on the left and right of the image, since the Stemar only takes portrait-orientation stereophotos, and the Elephone only displays in 3D when oriented horozontally. But when you double tap a photo, you’ll zoom in to fill the entire screen, even while still in 3D! Due to a bug in the 3D Media app, this feature only works AFTER you navigate away from the photo the first time, but will work for all subsequent viewing attempts. You can even use your finger to scroll the photo up and down, in 3D, while zoomed in to fill the screen. To see a full-screen 1920x1080 3D photo floating above the screen at 428 ppi and with very good color, while not needing any special glasses or headsets, is mindblowing, at least to me. I notice and appreciate details of the scene, composition, or subject, that just aren’t conveyed in a 2D photo. Notably, the Elephone should also be able to play 3D movies as well, and of course the Stemar should be compatible with a number of M-mount video capture platforms. I hope you found this account of my quest stimulating and helpful. There are a couple additional out-of-the-box ways I’m using my M10 that I hope to share with the community in the future.
  20. Self-seeking Me, first of all, with you my never born daughter We could have watched the stars, together I push the throttle, at full throttle Into the dark tunnel I run, I run away, from you, from me Maybe, I'm a bad person Bad habits Inconsistent relationships In the blood, inheritance, destiny Madness and pain Dripping on the multitude of solitudes… [ 181 more words ] https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2018/06/15/nightmare-no-114/ Ph. © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo​ M10, 35'cron
  21. I am interested in purchasing a 90mm lens for my M10 and I am considering the APO summicron f2/90mm and the summarit f2.4/90mm. For starters I have taken a few shots with both lenses on my M10 in the Leica store. When I imported them in Lightroom, the APO summicron is recognised, however the summarit was considered an "R-adapter M" lens and thus did not get the appropriate lens corrections automatically in LR. When I checked the exif info in the DNG file, it appeared indeed that the exif metadata did contain this "R-adapter M" designation. (The APO lens was correctly recognised). When I wanted to check the M10 manual setting of lens types (which I did without any lens mounted because the 90mm is still with Leica:-), the manual M types did not even contain the summarit f2.4/90mm (nor its older f2.5/90 version). I suppose that lens (brand new) was 6-bit coded (I didn't check in the shop!)? This all seems odd to me. This is with latest firmware 2.4.5. Has somebody an explanation? Thanks, Charles
  22. M10, Summicron 50mm @ f2. ISO 800, 1/500th
  23. https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2018/07/11/city-sickness-431/ 2018 © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo​ M10, 35'cron
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