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  1. I have just posted a new blog post at https://gerrywalden.wordpress.com/2016/09/05/just-one-roll-of-film/ which sabot a roll of film I shot in 2003 using a Leica M6 and (I think) a Summicron f2. It features 9 images in mono of a Mela in Southampton. Please take a look. Gerry
  2. gwpics

    Berber Children

    Two small Berber childen, one shoeless, and wearing dirty dresses sit outside their cave home in Tunisia. This is from 2002 when North Africa was a safer place to visit. I wonder where they are now? I used a Leica M6 and I think this was taken using the 50mm Summicron f2. Gerry
  3. Hallo zusammen, ich schau mich grad nach einer M6 um. Hab dazu nur eine Frage, kann es sein, dass es auch Modelle (80er und früher) gibt, die keine Sucher-Kennung haben, also die kleine Zahl in der rechten unteren Ecke? Ist das dann immer ein 0.72 Sucher? Vielen Dank für eure Hilfe und beste Grüße vom Bodensee
  4. I shot this in Beijing in 1998 using a Leica M6 and 50mm Summicron f2 lens. The film was Tri-X. I have just got around to scanning it as part of my efforts to digitise many years of film images. I guess these streets have disappeared now since the rebuilding for the Olympics. I have just started shooting film again with a M7!
  5. gwpics

    The Crickets

    Back in 1998 I went on a package tour to Beijing with my wife, but the images have lain pretty dormant in my filing cabinet since. I am now going through some of my older work and scanning it, and I was particularly pleased with this one which was shot on Fuji Provia using an M6 and Summicron-M f2. The exact details have been lost in the annal of time, but I think it was taken in the Forbidden City and shows a man who has brought his caged crickets out to enjoy the winter sunshine. I remember reading that Marc Ribaud )Magnum) had gone to China to photograph the Tiananmen Square 'happenings' in 1989 but had been so fascinated by people in the cafes with crickets he missed the main event. This then I guess is a sort of tribute to him.
  6. Taken back in 1998 using a Leica M6 with 50mm Summicron-M f2 and Fuji Provia film. Recently scanned and post-processed in LRCC Gerry
  7. I purchased in January my first Leica camera after using M mount lenses with adapter for several years on my mirrorless camera. Since I am more leaning towards B&W photography, I wanted to try a Leica rangefinder camera. I pretty quickly decided to go for a film-based M camera since I still have my own darkroom and can develop my own B&W film. I further narrowed down my choices by deciding for an in-camera light meter. Full manual was fine for me, and a camera which does not rely to work with a battery plus the well established reputation of the series made me choose the M6 (the non TTL model since I don't do a lot of flash photography). I purchased an used black M6 in very good shape manufactured in 1995 with 0.72x viewfinder. Since then I have used this camera very often - upfront I really like to work with it. There are some pros and cons which I thought are worthwhile to share from my experience. PROS + Great to see more than just the 100% view in the viewfinder. I find it easier to compose with the M6 than with any of my (D)SLRs or mirrorless cameras mostly due to seeing around and outside the framelines. + Focusing: Coming from (D)SLR and mirrorless, I needed first to get used to focus on the small focus rectangle in the middle of the frame - of course I overlooked it a few times in the beginning and forgot to focus accurately, but lesson learned! I am using my M6 mostly between 21 and 50 mm focal length - the focusing is very precise and indeed faster compared to using the same M lenses on my mirrorless Sony A7R body where it takes me longer to focus with the magnification tool in EVF. + Use of color filters for B&W photography: something which really annoyed me with SLRs and mirrorless cameras that I had to look through the lens with a dark yellow or red filter attached or remove the filter first, compose, and then re-attach the filter. With the rangefinder camera, it doesn't make a difference, I only see the difference in the exposure value. The viewfinder stays clear as always. For B&W film photography, this is a huge advantage! + Overall camera size: The M6 with M lenses is a very inconspicuous looking setup. During my shootings with this camera, only very few people asked me about the camera but more in the context of shooting film. The camera blends well in and does make it look like a P&S camera. + Built style of the M6: It is extremely well built. I like the full metal body with limited amount of plastic parts. Well balanced weight-wise with my M lenses, too. + Very silent shutter: at least compared to all of my other cameras which all have a mechanical shutter. Adds nicely to the silent and inconspicuous work possible with this camera. + External viewfinder: some might rather add this point into the cons section, but I see it as a positive for me so far. I am often using my 21 mm lens on the M6, so I bought the newer Voigtlander 21/25 external viewfinder. It is very bright, allows quite accurate composition. I even use the 21/25 external viewfinder with my CV 12/5.6 lens - using the hard borders of the viewfinder instead of the 21 mm frame lines, gives by accident exactly the view of the 12 mm lens. I got very quickly used to focus and expose through the regular camera viewfinder and then compose by looking through the external viewfinder. In dim light, the bright 21/25 viewfinder is really an advantage. + Film frame exposures: Since everything is done manually, I was always able to get 38-39 frames with a commercial 36 exposure film. Not bad! + No battery changes: sure, at some point the batteries also need to be changed to allow the light meter to function, but compared to my other digital cameras this is nothing. No need to be afraid to have Li batteries drained quickly in the cold etc.....you simply shoot and shoot with the M6. CONS (not only M6 related but also M rangefinder in general): - Comparing the film roll insertion with my older Canon FTb SLR, it still takes me longer to do this with the M6. I find the tricky part is to get the film straight laid out from left to right after it is inserted. The manual states that the user shouldn't be too picky about this, so I once added the film more quickly without doing those precautions. After I developed the film, the first three frames had a slight diagonally angled bent because the film wasn't winded straight between cassette and roller. Nevertheless, the film was moved correctly, so the rolling mechanics worked reliably as promised. But I still find the film change harder to do with the M6 compared to my film SLR cameras - especially in the field. I might simply need more time to get fully used to this. - I am often rolling my own film from a 100 feet roll which means that I have to precut the corner of the film to make it work with the roller mechanism. Here the M6 is a bit picky I found - if I cut the edge too much or too less, the camera didn't wind the film correctly from the beginning. After some try and error I found now the "best" size for the film cutout, now it works smoothly. - A stupid error, but it still happened to me several times - leaving the lens cap on the lens and not realizing that it was still on. You get the idea if the light meter always shows an underexposure... . As (D)SLR/mirrorless user, I am so used to look through the lens directly. - Using polarizer filter: Tricky but workable. I adjusted to imagine the desired effect with the polarizer filter by turning it into a position where the camera light meter shows a 1 stop underexposure (fully closed polarizer). Then the effect is strongest, by turning the filter a bit out of this position, I got the desired moderate polarizer effect in the photo. - The rangefinder patch blank-out: In another post here I described my homemade solution to overcome this issue. I personally found it quite annoying when the focus rectangle suddenly shifted into a reddish color in the viewfinder and focusing was blanked out. You need to compose into another area and recompose, or roll the camera to make it work again. - Fingerprints: again something simple but worthwhile mentioning. I normally grab the camera on the top when I take it out of my camera bag. On the M6, I often directly touch with my finger(s) the viewfinder window on the upper left camera side. The rangefinder view is very sensitive to smudge on this window. I got used to always carry a clean microfiber cloth with me to clean this window if needed. - Dual/multiple exposure: I got it to work with the M6, but it is a fairly cumbersome procedure, and you will lose about two frames before and after the double exposure to allow for the correct film winding. And even then, it is sort of luck to overlay two frames fairly accurately onto each other. I only tested this once so far and maybe it is getting better by doing it more often. I really enjoy my rangefinder experience so far! Down to the basics and makes me more to focus just on the compositional aspect. Would you agree - what was your experience with the M6 (and maybe other M cameras according to the context above)? Martin
  8. I took this on a visit to the Forbidden City in Beijing in 1998 and this is a scan from the original Velvia transparency. I used a Leica M6 back then, and this was probably taken with the 50mm Summicron f2 but I have no exposure details. It forms part of a gallery of Beijing images in a gallery which I am gradually adding to and can be viewed at http://archive.gwpics.com/gallery/Beijing-1998/G00001zr0M27_Rk4 Thanks for looking. Gerry
  9. Festival Times - Hindu Temple Leica M6TTL 35Lux FLE
  10. gwpics

    The Ferry Trip

    This is from my trip to the US in 2001 and was taken on the Ellis Island Ferry using the Leica M6 and TX400CN. I thought long and hard about posting this image, and finally came to the conclusion that less able-bodied people are a part of our society and hopefully this image shows a caring relationship and inclusion in the world. Gerry
  11. After many years of work, I have finally edited down my 51,267 photos of Honduran families to 52 and published my first Blurb book: http://www.blurb.com/books/6725808-las-familias All photos made with Leica rangefinders, all with black and white film. I still have second thoughts about what I should and should not have included but I had lots of help editing and will save the second thoughts for another book! You can preview the whole book on Blurb. Let me know what you think! Tina
  12. I took this on the Isles of Shoals back in 1997 using my Leica M6 and Fuji Velvia (sorry, no lens details but I suspect the 50mm Summicron f2) whilst on a photographic retreat with the New Hampshire Society of Photographic Artists, and I have just scanned it for the first time.
  13. I am continuing to scan and catalogue some of my transparencies from the days when I shot with a Leica M6, and this was taken on that camera in Beijing in 1998. I can tell you it was shot on Fuji Velvia but I have no lens/aperture details although I suspect it was the 50mm Summicron. Gerry
  14. Hallo liebe Foriker Ich habe heute mal den letzten Film entwickelt, und da auf einem Bild, einen schwarzer Streifen am linken Bildrand gesehen, allerdings ist das Motiv darunter noch sichtbar, der Rest des Fotos wirkt überbelichtet. Siehe Anhang Jetzt meine Frage, was könnte der Fehler sein. Hat der Verschluss gehangen? Es ist nur ein Foto, auf dem ganzen Film. Die Kamera wurde seit dem Bild davor, das letzte mal vielleicht drei Tage davor benutzt. Belichtungszeit müsste entweder 1/500s oder 1/1000s sein. Grüße Haze70
  15. I took this on a trip to Beijing in 1998 using my M6, and I have just scanned it to give it a new life. I am sorry but I have no details stored with the original, but can say that it was taken on Fuji RDP 100iso film. I hope you like it! Gerry
  16. Hello all, Just want to introduce myself - I am doing photography since 1985. As the headline states, I grew up in Germany but live for professional reasons not related to photography since 2005 permanently in the US. I just recently acquired my first Leica camera - the Leica M6 since I always wanted to have a fully mechanic reliable camera including a light meter. I want to do B&W film photography with this camera since I still develop my own film and use my darkroom to make silver gelatin prints both from digital files (using homemade digital negatives) and from film negatives. My style is predominantly landscape and fine art photography combined with B&W converted infrared photography. This said, I am also using digital cameras in parallel to film cameras. For infrared, I am currently using a converted Canon 5D MkII full frame DSLR with 715 nm cutoff filter, for digital landscape/macro/fine art work I am using a Sony A7R - predominantly with Leica and Voigtlander lenses plus adapter. I am not fixed to just one brand regarding photo gear and simply use what I consider best for my needs. I am looking forward to share photos and experience regarding Leica cameras and M mount lenses. Martin
  17. Martin B

    Taking a Break

    Photo taken with my Leica M6 and Kodak Tri-X 400 film using the Leica 50/2 Summicron-M lens. The film was developed with Kodak D76. The negatives were digitized by photographing with Sony A7R and Sigma 105/2.8 macro lens. Post processing with B&W and channel inversion plus slight contrast adjustment.
  18. One of my first photos taken with my Leica M6 and Kodak Tri-X 400 film using the Leica 50/2 Summicron-M lens. The film was developed with Kodak D76. The negatives were digitized by photographing with Sony A7R and Sigma 105/2.8 macro lens. Post processing with B&W and channel inversion plus slight contrast adjustment.
  19. Hello I am looking at getting my first leica! I am looking at getting a m6 classic I just have a few questions. I wear glasses and I hear that people who wear glasses should get a .58 magnification is this true? Would I be fine with .72 magnification? Another question is are the m6 classics as reliable as people say they are and how much money should I set aside for a service? Also what should I look over when looking at a m6? Thank you so much for help I appreciate it! This is the one I am looking at http://philadelphia....5216118730.html
  20. Hello I am looking at getting my first leica! I am looking at getting a m6 classic I just have a few questions. I wear glasses and I hear that people who wear glasses should get a .58 magnification is this true? Would I be fine with .72 magnification? Another question is are the m6 classics as reliable as people say they are and how much money should I set aside for a service? Also what should I look over when looking at a m6? Thank you so much for help I appreciate it! This is the one I am looking at http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pho/5216118730.html
  21. Street vendors in Toronto's Chinatown
  22. I'm about to start a project where i will use my Leica gear (M6 and a 35 mm ASPH Summicron) extensively each and every day under different circumstances and changing weather conditions for a half year or so. I'm not anal about my equipment since it's been bought to use. I just want to protect it in the best way, since it's gonna be exposed to heavy use. I'm gonna try to minimize the use in heavy rain and snow. The one thing, i'm most concerned about is how it's gonna react and cope with changing weather conditions, changing humidity and changing temperature, which i imagine could result in condensation. How can i protect it from condensation, on days where it's travelling in and out, from - let's say - minus 5 or plus 10 degrees Celsius, with a humidity over 80%, and inside to plus 20 degrees Celsius, and the other way around several times each day? Yes, it's gonna be protected in a bag under the most severe conditions, but my concern is condensation, as a result from changing temperatures and changing humidity.
  23. On March 20'th i will be in a country where Total Solar Eclipse will occur for two minutes, where it will be "peaking" at 9:41 AM local time. I think i already now know the scenery/landscape where i will be, but i'm wondering how to protect the camera from damage, since i did read somewhere that you should be very careful and not stare at the sun. This leads me to think, if the sun is so strong, that it can damage my eyes the two minutes - the lengt of the total solar eclipse - could it also damage my camera as well? I will most likely be on a mountain, some 20 meters above a flat surface where 600-800 people will gater for the eclipse. All the people will be in the front of the image, with the sun above them, and some mountains surrounding all the scenery. My M6 will be on a tripod with a Summicron 35 ASPH and i will try to shoot two rolls during the two minutes. 1. Should i protect my camera from the direct sunlight? If yes, how? [Corrected: Should i avoid having the sun directly in my frame?] 2. Do you have any suggested settings, i maybe should prefer? 3. Which film would you prefer? Maybe some strange questions, but since a total solar eclipse is also strange for me, it explains my questions
  24. I do commercial photography as a huge part of my day job, but I have a Canon EOS 1Dx for that. However I do, for my personal use, much prefer my M6 due to the size and the quality of the glass. I have a decent assortment of M glass, all with UV/IR cut filters on them. I would like to switch to a digital M as work has me traveling quite a bit going forward and I am honestly done with the extra handling that film requires. I don't know if anyone else has done this, or if I am over reaching by wanting to swap for an M8.2 body. If any of you have any thoughts, or tips, that you'd like to share with me I am all ears.
  25. Another from my first visit to Italy in March 1999. This was taken in Montepulciano (Tuscany/Toscana) using a Leica M6 with Tri-X film but I have no other details recorded. Looking at the image I would assume 50mm Summicron f2. Gerry
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