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Has anyone experimented with mounting the 28PC R lens on the CL with the R adapter? While the crop makes it say 42mm equivalent, would it also have extended shift due to the smaller sensor? I think it shifts some 12mm, and that might be pretty interesting.

Hmmm! I have just spent nearly an hour trying to resize each of five photos to fit as close to the .49MB limit as possible. The first two I have posted look terrible compared to the originals. There must be a better way. If there are instructions on the forum on how to do this better, could someone point them to me please? I wont post any more pics until I get this figured out properly.

Looking at a preowned CL. Anybody know how to bring up the shutter count? Appreciate it.

sieh da: https://www.fotointern.ch/archiv/2018/01/06/die-leica-cl-im-harten-praxisvergleich-mit-der-sl/

Well - it's a long time since a love affair was so brief. I've been interested in working with the CL, but after a month or so of playing I've come to the conclusion it's not for me. I've tried the TL 23 18-55 and 55-135, but in the end didn't really enjoy them. I can see how some will love them, but they just don't meet my needs. Part of the issue is that the camera with lenses mounted ends up being BULKIER than my Ms. OK I know they're mostly zooms so you have many FLs in one lens, but even the 23mm (especially with a hood on) feels huge compared with the M10 + 35 summicron asph. The other issue is that compared with full frame I just wasn't subjectively satisfied with the image results from APS-C. High ISO was no where near what I can get with the M10 and I wasn't happy with the results I was seeing on screen or paper. Good, but not quite good enough. After experimenting, I also didn't feel there was any point in putting M lenses on the CL - it seemed beside the point, and if I need EVF focusing I use either LV or the Visoflex 020. If I want longer I'll use the R 80-200 f4 or I'll use my Canon system. So, current plan is they're all going off to Ffordes and I'm getting a used Canon 70-300 f4-f5.6 (£760!!) to go with the 5D3 for those occasions when I know I'll need reach and IS. Bye-bye CL forum - back to the M10

I've had great results with the new Profoto A1, which is an event shooter's dream flash, beautiful light, massive capacity, and instantaneous flash recycling. I realize there are many Profoto haters out there, but for my event shooting, I've been extremely pleased with the A1 on a Canon as well as on a flash bracket using a Profoto Sony trigger. I'm using a Leica CL as a backup (small, light, wonderful quality TL lenses, excellent higher ISO performance) and wanted to see how the Profoto A1 would work (in manual mode, of course) on the CL. According to Profoto, all you need is a flash shoe/foot with a single center pin, which the CL has. But no matter what configuration I try (and, yes, with the manual switch on the A1 turned on), the flash will not fire. Leica's regular SF40 and 60 flashes work just fine, so I know that flash functionality isn't a problem. Any one have any suggestions?

I haven't got my CL yet, but not being technically savvy, I know I will be asking: How do I do this? How do I do that? I don't think I'll be alone. I am sure that fellow CL'ers will chip in with solutions. Ask away. I hope the moderator will pin this thread.

I am personally not there yet but I was wondering whether anyone is using the Leica CL as their only or main camera and what they were shooting before. Also, whether you are missing anything from your previous platform. Or the areas in which you feel the CL is still severely lacking.

I find the rendition of CL DNG images using the standard embedded profile on Lightroom for the CL rather garish and more suitable for a picture postcard. I am using a 2016 (Touchbar) 15" Macbook Pro with a calibrated screen. This is particularly the case if using a polarising filter. They are not quite so bright after conversion to JPEG's but still not quite to my taste. Capture One is somewhat better using the DNG file neutral profile but if for example I use the SL profile, it goes garish again (Phase One in their usual fashion have no CL profile at present for C1 V10 - I don't know about V.11 as I have not bought it). Hopefully this is something Leica might improve on a firmware update. See example below taken in Speightstown pier and fishmarket in Barbados, three weeks ago, I think probably with polarising filter (Hoya Fusion MC 52mm Circular Pola filter). Wilson

I did what I thought was an interesting "shoot out" this past Sunday in my back garden. I compared the following: Leica CL with 18-56 TL zoom set to 22mm, f/4 Leica CL with 21mm Summilux-M, f/4 Leica CL with 21mm Super Elmar M, f/4 Leica CL with 11-23 TL zoom set to 22mm, f/4.4 (wide open at this focal length) Leica M10 with 35mm Summilux M FLE, f/5.6 Leica SL with 24-90mm Vario Elmar set to 34mm, f/5.6 Cameras were tripod mounted. A shutter delay of 2s was used to reduce the chances of blur from camera movement. Image stabilization was turned off with the SL. ISO was set to base value. Same point of focus was used in all cases. The objective was to see whether there were any obvious differences in image quality on a real, three dimensional subject when shooting under optimum conditions. The focal ratios chosen were to provide optimum image quality for the lens and to ensure depth of field differences between formats were minimized. The lighting varied slightly from minute to minute since those was outdoors, but all images were shot at approximately the same time under overcast conditions. I repeated the experiment from a slightly longer subject distance to get essentially the same framing with a different focal length: Leica CL with 18-56 TL zoom set to 35mm, f/4.9 (wide open at this focal length) Leica CL with 35mm Summilux-M FLE, f/4 Leica CL with 35mm Summilux TL, f/4 Leica M10 with 50mm APO Summicron M, f/5.6 Leica SL with 24-90mm Vario Elmar set to 50mm, f/5.6 End result? At optimum aperture and when one's technique is good, I really couldn't find a consistent difference among any of these lenses. Frankly, the biggest challenge was in getting the point of focus the same in all images such that depth of field was distributed evenly in front of and behind the point of focus. In one case in particular, I simply missed focus a bit (despite it being an AF lens--probably wasn't careful enough in my selection point). Some lenses had slightly different field curvature characteristics. There were very slight differences in edge of field sharpness. Very slight differences in color separation on fine details. That's about it. Could I tell the difference in noise characteristics between the two full frame cameras and the APS-C camera? Not at base ISO I couldn't. Maybe if there had been some sky in the field of view or some other really smooth surface I could have. Maybe not. What about dynamic range? Not under overcast conditions where all three cameras were capable of capturing the entire range of tones without any clipping. Were there differences in how out-of-focus areas were rendered? Sure, but it would be nearly impossible to pick "winners" and "losers" with the particular garden scene I was using--no bokeh balls or specular highlights for evaluation. What about color cast or saturation? Well, I've already got my M10 dialed in the way I want it, and the SL and CL were actually closely matched, so the colors came out very nearly identical with the largest factor being the slightly variable lighting conditions. Certainly, I wouldn't be able to pick out a lens/camera combo that had "better" or even "different" colors. Of course, I wasn't pushing any boundaries here. The comparison was at optimum aperture for each lens or very nearly so. The lighting and dynamic range were easy to handle. There was ample light for shooting at base ISO. The tripod minimized or eliminated camera blur. The subject was static. I was taking my time so that focus wouldn't be an issue (and even so, I missed one slightly--just enough to be visible at 100% magnification on my 5K monitor). What does this tell me? Nothing shocking, really. I would choose my lens and camera based on size/weight, field of view needed, control over depth of field needed, available light, need for autofocus, and need for image stabilization. All the combinations above are equally capable if you aren't pushing the edges too much. We all worry more than we probably need to about image quality, lens rendering, sharpness, and similar factors. Frankly, the worst image I created from a technical perspective was using one of the best lenses--the 35mm Summilux TL. Even when I was trying to be careful and really nail the "technique" for any factors that could impact image quality, a small difference in focus point was the single largest factor in sharpness! I'd post the images, but frankly there is no point. At web sizes and with JPG compression, they are identical.

I see that this image is normal posting size. By any chance did you figure out what the issue is with some members' photos being compressed? Mine are still being shrunk, and it takes much of the pleasure away from participating in this community.

I just purchased a CL (coming from a Nikon 35mm film system) and am looking for a good starting point for setting up profiles. I've seen reference to Jono's recommendations but for the life of me cannot locate the actual settings. Any suggestions here?

I have had an M10 for over a year and recently purchased a CL as a backup. I love the CL but why oh why couldn't they put the 'Play' button in the middle like on the M10? Every time I want to view an image I press the 'Function' instead of 'Play'! I'd disable the function button completely if I could. Ok, I'll calm down now. Great little camera though!

Hi guys, I wanted to add a CL to my Leica SL (to have a second body) Have you tried the SL lenses on the CL? How they work? (image quality, autofocus, etc.) I have 50SL and 90SL... Thanks in advance!

Just curious... Have any of you had an SL... got tired of the weight of the SL glass, and have now gone CL completely?? I had both a Q and SL... with a ton of SL glass. I recently traded my Q for a CL 18mm KIt + some cash. I then added a 23. I just sold some of my SL glass... the 90-280 and 50 SL. I really love the SL and it's IQ, but I'm finding the CL a pleasure to carry around (just like the Q was). To me, the CL is basically an interchangeable lens Q. Yes, I would love if it was FF, but then the glass would be bigger. I don't see myself selling the SL...at least not yet. The SL body is not that big... but the zooms and 50 SL certainly are. Thoughts??

I just received the very nice Korean-made LIM Thumb Grip for the CL, which appears to look identical to the Leica-branded CL Thumb Grip, and, is priced ⅓ less. Good enough for me. Color perfectly matches the CL, fit is excellent, and gives some added thumb support to hold the CL with more stability. Highly recommended.

There have been many conversations here and elsewhere regarding battery life. I thought I would share my recent experience. I have just spent an interesting, if tiring day pounding the halls at Photokina. I had with me my CL, 11-23 & 18-55 lenses & three batteries. The camera was set to record raw+jpg (small). I used the viewfinder only with minimal chimping & diving into the menu. The first battery lasted all day at Photokina, and even into the following day walking around Cologne. Once the photos were in Lightroom a quick count revealed 462 exposures before the battery symbol started flashing red. To my mind, very impressive.

Die Leica CL wird bald in Silber erhältlich sein.

The Leica CL will be available in silver anodized finish soon.

Hi All, My first post here, I've only been lurking since I don't have a Leica, yet. I've been contemplating a Leica, hoping to get some friendly advises whether a used CL is a good buy, or a used M 262, and a couple of prime lenses for them. A bit of background. My first real camera was a Yashica rangefinder with a 41mm lens, a gift from my aunt when I was going overseas to study. I shot thousands of slides with it, well, that was my only camera. Looking back, I like the 41mm focal length, and to this day, I still don't shoot at 50mm. I shot for a while with a Nikon D300 and the generic 18-200mm zoom while working and traveling in Europe and Asia, an 85mm for portraits, that's pretty much all I shoot, very little landscape or macro or anything else. Occasionally, I rent the Nikon 14-24mm to do some interior work. For wide,the 28mm is not satisfactory for me, I would go 21mm or wider. I moved to the D810 for full-frame and only own 2 lenses, 35mm/2 and 85mm/1.4. So I want to get something more compact and don't mind APS-C to travel with, a Japan trip is coming up. I seriously considered the Fuji x100F/T but crossed that out after trying a friend's X-E2, something about the Fuji tone that I do not get excited about. I considered the Nikon Df but it's not much smaller. Then I started reading this forum. The M10 is out of my budget, and wonder if the M 262 is still a good buy, I will probably look for a 40mm first before considering a 35mm/2. Along the way I considered and ruled out the Q, excellent as it is, don't mind a fixed-lens but I think I would not be happy at 28mm. Yes, I know you can crop to 35mm and 50mm, but it's not the same, if you get my drift., So the other thought is a used CL, APS-C is fine. I understand the CL goes well with the 23mm Summincron for 35mm equivalent, the Nokton 40mm sounds good, but that'll be 60mm equivalent. So would anyone suggest a 28mm to give me a 42mm crop? Sorry for the long-winded post. Thanks All.

Dass Digitalkameras Probleme mit kräftigen Rottönen haben, ist ja nichts Neues. Hieran habe ich mir die Zähne ausgebissen - das JPG aus der Kamera und das in Photoshop geöffnete DNG, hier wieder als JPG abgespeichert, waren einfach nicht ineinander überzuführen. Die Wahrheit liegt wohl irgendwo in der Mitte. Das Rot war jedoch gelblich, nicht Richtung Magenta und ganz und gar nicht matt. Irgendwie wirkt das JPG durchzeichneter. Weiß jemand, wie man das in den Griff bekommt? Ich habe es mit allen mir bekannten Methoden versucht (Kanäle, selektive Farbkorrektur, Farbtemperatur), ging einfach nicht. Vielleicht weil das JPF von vorneherein nicht soviel Dynamik mitbringt? Mit dem echten DNG ist der Unterschied natürlich viel krasser. Im DNG scheint der Gelbton (Orange) komplett zu fehlen, d.h. das Rot ist stark Richtung Magenta verschoben.

Hello dear CL owners! In my CL I noticed that the display warms up very quickly, more than other cameras (I had in the past). It's nothing dramatic, but in warm weather it's already noticeably warm. Do you make the same experience with your camera? Thanks a lot and a good week. Andreas

Hi Guys, love the SF40 which you all had suggested. I love the flash, however i shoot in Afperture Priority and it seems that the flash only sincs at 1/60 . I also use Auto ISO, is there a way to get HSS on this flash and my CL ? I could not find a setting in the menu. Thank you in advance as always for your great help. I have just gotten the 35/1.4 which i would hope would give me a larger range on the flash.

Etwas untergegangen im photokina Trubel: Es gibt ein Firmware Update für die Leica CL (Version 2.1)! » Version 2.1 für die Leica CL (Download) Informationen und Anleitung zur Installation Die Verbesserungen: NEU: Kompatibilität mit der neuen Leica FOTOS app Verbinden sie ihre Leica Kamera mit der Leica FOTOS app NEU: QR Code für alle Leica Kameras Einfacher Verbindungsaufbau zwischen App und Kamera. NEU: 1-Klick Verbindung über den FN-Knopf Das WLAN wird über den FN-Knopf ohne Untermenüs aktiviert. NEU: Fester WLAN Name und Password Keine zusätzliche Untermenüs für WLAN Name und Passwort. NEU: Keine Untermenüs für die Einstellung des Verbindungsmodus

Didn't get much attention during photokina: The Leica CL has a new firmware update: » Leica CL Version 2.1 (Download) Details and installation instructions The improvements: NEW: Compatible with the new Leica FOTOS app Connect your smartphone to your Leica camera NEW: QR Code for all Leica Cameras Easy pairing of smartphone and Leica cameras. NEW: 1-Click Connection with FN-Button WLAN starts without submenus on FN-button. NEW: Fixed WLAN name and password No submenus for setting name and password. NEW: No submenus for mode settings No submenus for setting a connection mode.