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Found 15 results

  1. Dear M10 Friends and Users: I am wondering if any one has tried to use the Lightpix Flash Q20 with the digital Leica M. If you are not aware, Lightpix Flash Q20 is a cheap and wireless method of using flash with cameras. Here's a video on Youtube. From the FlickR page, I found this photo but not sure if they actually used the flash with the camera! Look forward to your responses. I am not affiliated with this company in any way.
  2. Hello everyone, has anyone of you tried to use a SF 64 flash on a non Leica Camera? I bought it to use on M10, but I'd like to use it also on Fuji or DSRL cameras. Is it safe to use it this way? Are there voltage issues? Is it risky? I know that is a rebranded and adapted Metz flash. Of course I understand that TTL mode won't work on a non Leica camera... but automatic mode will do? Thanks Simone
  3. Hello everyone: my name is Maurizio and I'm Italian. This is my first post here although I registered years ago. I'm writing because I have a problem with a flash on my Leica M9, which I can not solve. I have a nikon SB-900 flash that works in manual regularly on the M9. Now I have bought a Debao SU-800 remote commander but the signal does not reach the flash. (Debao work normally with my nikon camera). (I know it's shameful to apply a Debao in a leica m9). Naturally I set the same "communication channel" and "group name" in commander and remote flash. When I shoot the remote flash does not turn on One more thing: When the test lamp, in the SU-800, is red, I press the test button, and the flash turns on but after a couple of seconds. Can someone help me solve this problem? Thank you very much for helping. (I apologize for my bad english)
  4. Will all the Leica SF units ie 20/24/26/40 etc work in TTL with the CL?? thanks
  5. Dear Leica lovers! A while ago I bought my first Leica, an M2. And I've been shooting some test rolls on the street. I've connected a Vivitar 283 flash to it (keeping it in my hand, connected with a cord), mostly shooting t-max 400 on a shutter speed of 500 (quite fast?). Now I keep having some issues with the shutter speed and exposure of the flash on the photos... Maybe there's quite a simple answer to my question... Probably my shutter speed still is too slow or too fast, or could it be my lens (Carl Zeis Biogon M, 28mm)? But I would love to learn from people with more expertise than I have at this moment. What can I do to get my flash properly exposed on my photo's? I've attached an example! Thank you in advance!
  6. After an experiment with the SF58 (which I thought had a crackpot interface) I use a 'Nikon' Nissan Di700a and wireless 'air commander' with my Q and my SL. I use it completely manually - which isn't too bad if you spent the earlier part of your life with a Vivitar 283, plus modern digital cameras give us the chance to take a test shot and see how we are doing. I wouldn't mind the opportunity to use a flash TTL and of course high speed synch on the SL would be nice - though that's not such a problem with a Q of course. Have we formed the impression the new C1/SF60 will allow this? I feel so bruised by my experience with the SF 58 (which I could only ever operate manually) that I was wary about the Leica 64 and sf40 flashes. Anyone have advice to offer for a TTL solution including wireless control? Has anyone actually set eyes on a C1 wireless commander? Of course it would be lovely if I could buy one of those and continue using my di700a but nothing in life works like that. Thanks
  7. Hello everyone, I was wondering if someone else is having a problemi with the new flash and wireless controller. My Leica CL doesn't fire the flash. It doesn't work it TTL more neither in manual. The SC1 has the same issue. What is your experience with the flash? Thanks for the help.
  8. In the manual it says that the SL will sync with flash at 1/250. When I use the camera with Bron Visatec strobes I can only sync with 1/160 sec or slower. Using faster shutter speeds will result in a image that is dark in the bottom due to the shutter blocking the sensor when the flash goes off. Am I wrong?
  9. Today I finally got around to testing the SF-64 that I purchased 3 weeks ago. In summary: it's great! Seems to deal with every test I tried. A tad large. Caveat: I did not test every possible combination of settings and usage. I only tested the scenarios that I am likely to use: Fill-flash just to pop an almost indiscernible amount of light into shadows on a face - must not look like a flash has been used Indoor shots when there's not enough ambient light to hand-hold safely and there's something to bounce the light from (white ceiling or wall, reflector, umbrella) The SL and this SF64 (and FW 2.0) lets me do these two things easily. I mainly tested Aperture priority but I did test some Manual and Program. Mainly, I was playing with the Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) to get the right balance of ambient and flash. The SF64 is big but not out of place on the SL / 24-90mm combination. The handling balance is still comfortable. The controls on the back of the SF64 are mainly touch-screen but nice and easy to see and press. It's great that it displays the camera's aperture setting and also the distance range (min to max) that the flash can cover in the current setting. A nice feature is the ability to adjust the FEC on either the flash or in the SL menu. With the FEC now assignable to the favourites menu and a button shortcut, it's easy to change the FEC on either device. If you change it on one, it updates on the other. If you have saved an FEC in your profiles, that becomes the starting point for the FEC whenever you switch the flash on. This Hacienda photo has just a tiny bit of fill flash (FEC = -2). Similar images shot with the flash turned off are somewhat darker inside the funnel of the flower. Sunny afternoon but the flower is mainly lit from behind. 90mm 1/90s f4.0 ISO100 I did a quick comparison with the SF40. While the SF40 functions well for some settings, it tends to over-expose shots where the main subject is close to the flash. And, the FEC range of +2 to -2 is a bit limited for fill-flash. As others have noted, one thing that's not quite working as expected is using Flash with Auto-ISO. As soon as the flash is turned on, the ISO locks in to the lowest number in the Auto-ISO range, in my case ISO100. I guess that the complexity of having the ISO change is too much for the flash TTL algorithm to handle. Others are concerned about this but I prefer setting the ISO to a fixed number for most images, especially when flash is involved as my brain struggles to calculate the probable results of too many changing variables... Regards Peter
  10. For those who have used both the older Leica SF24D flash and the newer SF26D flash, how much smaller is the new one. The dimensions aren't listed consistently on the websites I've checked. I would like the smallest flash that works on the Leica M10 for travel, and I currently own the SF24D. It works fine for me. Is the SF26D smaller? Are their other, smaller flashes that work? Thank you.
  11. Hello, I'm new to the forum and I've been looking for a low-profile flash for street photography (daytime) that I can toy around with I was considering a Contax TLA-200 when I remembered I have an old Olympus T20 from when I had my first OM-G 35mm camera. I was getting ready to give it a try when I was suddenly stricken with the fear that I was about to do something horrible to my Leica M240. I scoured the web and was unable to find any information on compatibility between the Leica M240 and the Olympus T20 (or the Contax for that matter). Might anyone know if my old T20 will cause damage? I like the aesthetic (strangely) but this means nothing if it doesn't function...
  12. I have D-Lux 6 which I still carry for work because it is smaller than my 109 and has a pop-up flash. The problem I am having is that when I take interior shots, the flash turns the images into very warm tones. This does not happen if I shoot without the flash. What am I doing wrong. RP
  13. Does the SL support the SF 26 flash? I have read conflicting reports. And since there are so few flashes that work well (my SF 58 does not work reliably, and 24D is a fixed head with no ability to bounce)--and the new flashes are not shipping anytime soon, I am considering the SF 26. If it does work on the SL body, does the bulk of the 24-90 obscure the flash?
  14. Is anyone with a T701 doing watch photography? Or Jewellery? If so which is the best lens of the T-mount to achieve good results, and maybe more importantly what is your lighting setup, flash or studio lights. I have tried with the 18-56, an Elpro 3 and the SF26 Flashgun - but I am not 100% happy with the results. I wonder if there is another more powerful flashgun that I could use or even if I could use Elinchrom D-Lite RX4 studio lights?
  15. I just acquired a VLUX 114 for mainly travel, zoo, etc everywhere where more reach than my m10 and 135 can get. I do have a SF-40 flash which I use on my M10 sometimes, as well as a Skyport trigger from Elinchrome in the studio, these work perfectly on the M. I was rather taken aback to see that NEITHER work on the VLUX 114! I can put the Elinchrome trigger on the mount of the VLUX. The SF-40 will not fit. Occasionally I would like to use wireless flash and I am now at a loss currently to know how to achieve this with the VLUX and my current flash equipment. In the studio it is Dlite RX-4 heads and Elinchrome EL-Skyport Speed. Obviously the SF-40 won't work unless I can buy some sort of adaptor for the connection to the VLUX? Haven't been able to find any information yet.
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