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My interests toward film are ignited again by my dad’s efforts in developing C41, ECN-2 and E-6 at home after his retirement. We talked frequently on the chemicals, processes and experiment the push process together. We now have succeeded in pushing the Kodak Vision3 500T to 800 and 1600. For me, 800 is enough to cover my needs shooting streets from dawn to dusk and the artificial lights. And I now enjoy the M4 more than the M10-P. We use a Plustek 8200i to scan. Okay, let’s kick-off with a frame. Leica M4, LLL 35/2, Kodak 5219@800

I’ve recently dug out my M6 TTL after getting on for 20 years of neglect, popped a battery in and cocked the shutter and checked metering and all seems well. I’m tempted to put a film through it, but don’t have any developing kit and don’t feel like buying at present. Does any one know a good lab for black and white? PROCESSING ONLY. I’ve still got my Nikon LS 4000 (recently serviced) so will scan myself if all goes well. I’d be grateful for any recommendations (also for film suppliers - Tri-x or FP4. I regret the passing of Neopan 400)…

Shot film in the 80s and 90s (Olympus and Nikon) then digital only for past 20 years (including SL 601 since it came out) Loaded my Nikon F5 last year and loved shooting film again. Now considering an M. Have read and watched all I can, so understand the differences between the 3 currently available film M cameras but still undecided. Don’t mind black or chrome (and not chasing a BP finish). Have always had a light meter in my camera (apart from shooting my Dad’s old Ilford as a kid) but am attracted to the simplicity of the M-A. Areas I could use advice on include the following please: - quality control issues, not sure if M6 scratching film issue has gone away. - viewfinder, which is best? (My eyesight is ok but am in mid 50s). - reliability over the long term. Anyone else been in my situation? How did you choose? Thanks for your help everyone.

nice to know they're developing new film cameras

very nice

Hi everyone, I’m about to buy as second lens Elmarit M 90mm. I’d like to know about your user experience with this lens and of course to see some pictures if it is possible. What do you like to shoot using this lens?

Article on the Online Photographer website about a recent interview with Dr Kaufmann on a French website. Interesting snippets regarding film & digital M production numbers. PS - wasn't sure if this was the best place for the post - feel free to move it if it would garner more readers elsewhere.

Taken in my home town. I found the Agfa quite grainy in Adox FX39 so will change to Microphen as a trial. The grain is no major problem as I can reduce it in Lightroom but it would be if I wanted to go larger than maybe 25x20cm. Leica M6 + 35mm Summarit-M f2.5 - Agfa APX400 Gerry

Hello, I have found expired ORWO reversal, greyscale double 8mm film from 1967/1968 It has been subject to harsh conditions of heat/ bad storage etc For these image stills shared here, i have been hand-processing the films with D94 chemistry, re-expose them in Cairo's sun for minutes, then using D94 as a second developer without fixing the image (hence all silver halide should be consumed at the last step) I have the following questions: 1) Could you help identify the cracks/wrinkles? 2) Some of the results seemed really good at the re-exposure process (image attached), but then turned out less contrasty at the end results- do you have an idea why? 3) Do you have extra general tips on how to get better results/ clearer images/ better contrast etc? Thank you very so much in advance

It was an ominous dusk with the rainstorm hovering. The old MR-4 meter did a great job. I was holding my umbrella in left hand and then did all settings adjustment with my right hand, which I’ve practiced a lot so it was not a big deal. Leica M3, Light Lens Lab 35/2, Kodak Vision3 5219@800

I am a long-term M3 and Rolleiflex shooter, and for black and white am more than happy making prints in the darkroom. Shooting color on film is also fun, but developing and scanning, for me at least, isn’t. And I’ve been wanting to have the experience of shooting digitally with my M lenses for a long time. So last week I took the plunge and bought a used M10R. I got the silver version and am struck by how much it looks and feels like my 1960 M3. The simplicity of the camera makes me happy — I was concerned about being overwhelmed with menus — but I’m sure I have much to learn about getting the most out of the camera, about post-processing, etc. (It renders black and white beautifully too, but I won’t put aside my film cameras). Do any other film shooters have advice or experience to share about their transition? Any thoughts are welcome.

I am still editing images taken on my visits to Paris. This is the latest to be chosen. Taken on Tri-X in 1999 using an M6 with a 50mm Summicron f2 lens. You can see my 'Streets of Paris' portfolio at https://gwpics.myportfolio.com/the-streets-of-paris I am hoping to get a book together in the relatively near future, so comments are welcome. Gerry

https://vimeo.com/208254533 A short video clip I made on SL with Summarit 35/2.4 in L-log and graded in FCP X as Arri Log C footage. Wanted to finally see what can be done with those L-log files. Not bad results, looks really promising. Anyone here has any experience with making films on SL? How do you capture the footage, how do you colour grade later? What LUT do you use? I've looked at buying some extra LUT loaders and use some custom LUTs but decided that it's not really needed. I can work with what's in the Apple Final Cut Pro X quite effectively it seems. How about you?

Minolta CLE + M-Rokkor 40/2 + Kodak 5219, scanned with Plustek 8200iSE

M4 + LLL 35/2 + Kodak 5294, home E-6 developed and scanned with Plustek 8200i. White balance corrected in LR.

M4 + Expired Portra 160 + LLL 35/2

M4 + Expired Portra 160 + LLL 35/2

We shared and celebrated the holiday regardless of races and nationalities. Minolta CLE + Voigtländer 35/2 Ultron II + Expired 5 yrs+ Kodak Vision 3 250D. Mong Kok, Hong Kong, July 1st.

Minolta CLE + Voigtländer 35/2 Ultron II + Expired 5 yrs Kodak Vision 3 250D. Mong Kok, Hong Kong, July 1st.

Hi everyone, I'm planning to switch to Leica IXMOO reloadable film cassettes for bulk loading. However, the 5 cassettes that I managed to purchase all contain some degree of oxidation, so I'd like to give them a clean before putting them to use. Can anyone recommend a product and method with which to do this? I've heard vinegar works quite well, but obviously an IXMOO is a little more advanced than a doorknob, so I wanted to check first. Thanks in advance

cool camera

Hi everybody, I’m a computer science engineer who has been working, as a hobby, the last three years in a new, more precise, way of recreating film look with digital cameras. I’m posting here for feedback, in case anybody of you would like to test the application (with the M9) and show the results and your opinions. I usually shoot film photography but also I like the comfort of digital. The problem is that I’ve never been happy with existing film emulations. Mainly because of that, because they are emulations instead of simulations. METHOD USED For doing so, instead of doing a generic conversion for every camera, I’ve done a specialised conversion for the Leica M9 based on simulating the chemical process and spectrum response, instead of applying curves and other stuff. In the end, I thought, if analog and digital are just two instruments which capture light, I thought, maybe is there any mathematical conversion to make the digital to look like film? I mean, if I take the same photo with analog and digital, under exact same conditions (light / aperture / exposition /…) could I make them look exactly the same? It’s based on chemical simulation and the Leica M9’s response to spectrum. Then LUTs and finally some extra calibration. I think that it could be improved because I’ve used home made or open source tools for calibrating and so on, which are far from perfect. EXAMPLES (Analog vs Converted Digital) Following are some examples of Superia 200 and TriX 400. Click in each photo to see high resolution. DNGs shoots taken with Leica M9 (left), and FILM shoots taken with Minolta CLE (right) at same conditions (aperture / exposition / ISO). All shoots taken with Zeiss Biogon T* ZM 35mm f/2. The examples show several photos, which are the following: +------------------------+------------------------+ | original DNG | | +------------------------+------------------------+ | converted DNG | scanned FILM | +------------------------+------------------------+ | developed DNG | developed FILM | +------------------------+------------------------+ For the generated simulated negative TIFF file and the scanned TIFF file I’ve applied exactly the same develop parameters. TriX 400 - 1 TriX 400 - 2 TriX 400 - 3 Superia 200 - 1 Superia 200 - 2 Superia 200 - 3 Superia 200 - 4 Superia 200 - 5 Superia 200 - 6 CONCLUSIONS Tonal range - Biggest difference between digital and film Dynamic range - Digital is faaar more detailed in the blacks, film never gets burnt, meanwhile digital gets burn quite fast. Film has more microcontrast, it's more sharpen Digital is a little bit more contrast after developing, I imagine it’s because it reach white level faster, then, when doing autolevels with the developing program, as a result, it’s a more contrast image. DOWNLOAD I'm having a console application ready, if interest is shown it will be ready quite soon! CAVEHEATS / LIMITATIONS The program only accept DNG, because I need all the light captured by the camera, instead of a JPG already converted and really dependent on camera self made adjustments. The program only accepts photos taken at the ISO of the certain film that is gonna be used. For example, for TriX400 it will accept only Leica M9 DNGs at 400 ISO. I’ve also done tests with ISO 200 and 800, and the results were quite satisfactory but, for complexity reasons, I prefer to let it be native film ISO for the moment. Highlights are not always correct, and sometimes they look weird, mainly in color film. This is due to bayer sensor pattern and its different intensity response (for Red, Green and Blue channels). FUTURE (& PAST) WORK Leica M10-D Leica M8.2 THANKS Super thanks to the creator of LibRaw, a wonderful C++ library for working with RAW files. Any questions I’m open to answer 🙂 Best regards everybody. Tomás AKA “Camalogica”

Hi everyone, I’m hesitating which color film to choose for shooting in cloudy rainy day. What are your recommendations? I have all my fridge all color films that are in production nowadays + Fuji Pro 400H

Hi everyone, I have Summicron M 50mm version V and I use it with my M6 classic. Summicron M 50mm seems to be a tricky lens.From one side it performs well giving very nice result, but in some areas when the weather is cloudy I got images which lack of contrast which I dislike. I have Contax G2 with Zeiss 45mm and Nikon FM3a with Zeiss 50mm and both gives more contrasty images. what is your opinion if you use this lens with film camera? Any advices?