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Found 6 results

  1. [ I did not find a pertinent thread via forum search; if this is a duplicate question, please be so kind to provide a link, otherwise feel free to answer ] What adapters can be reliably used on the M10 for e.g. a classic LTM Elmar 50 mm in your experience? In older threads (pre M10), the three most widely recommended were - Original Leitz (50mm seems to be a bit scarce on the market) - Voigtländer - CameraQuest/ Rayqual (seem unavailable in Europe) The M10 has been reported to be more finicky with regard to 6 bit coding. Is it also more of a diva with regard to adapters? I have read the caveats about collapsing; now I am looking out for an adapter... Thanks, Mathias
  2. any point in coding my lenses? 90mm elmarit 50/1.2 canon (code as noctilux?) 28/3.5 canon (not sure)
  3. Has anyone heard of this issue and / or know the impact of this? I can't seem to find anything on it.
  4. Hello everyone. I tried a search but I haven't exactly found an answer to my question. So here is the thing. For a long time I've been wondering whether to go for 28mm or 35mm – the never-ending question for all photographers Anyway, my mind is now made up to go for the Summicron 28mm. A fantastic lens in every possible way and I really love it's rendering. I am looking for a second hand example and they are fortunately for me readily available on the market. I've seen plenty of talk about Summicron 28's flare and on the opposing side of spectrum are the people who say the Cron 28 is absolutely free of the flare problem. I am talking about the large purple blobs which appear on some shots and they do look like kind of terrible and the lost off contrast is severe. For example read here: Digi•Pixel•Pop . This is not the only source where i've seen such bad flare examples. So obviously I wouldn't want to pay ~4000$/3000€ for a lens with a severe flare problem. According to Leica-Wiki (http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/28mm_f/2_ASPH_Summicron-M) serial numbers starting with 39xxxxx are potentially the ones with the "problem". The good news: all signs seem to point out that the flare problem (can) exists on the early pre-6 bit serial number samples. So it seems Leica has done some modifications silently in the design along the way. Perhaps there was some change in the coatings and the newer versions are free of the flare problem. Or at least it's not as bad. So my question is this: I would like to know if people have any first hand experience on the early serial number, pre 6 bit coded lenses, and if this particular problem really exists? I am asking for this because there are plenty of available pre 6-bit Summicrons available on the used market and they are usually quite a bit cheaper than the later version. But I am really afraid to pull the trigger if these early serial numbers are more likely to have a flare problem compared to the later versions. Thank you for reading
  5. I cannot figure out how to print this https://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-news/leica-lens-codes/ to 1 to 1 size that I can fit the back of un-coded M mount lenses. The printout are oversized but I have already unchecked "fit to page" or "scale to fit" options in my Brother brand laser printer. Please help?
  6. After finally getting my M10 delivered to me last November, I was chomping at the bit to use my old lenses that I used to shoot with my M6's some 10 years or more ago. They are all older lenses (late 70's to mid 90's) in 28mm, 35mm, two 50mm's, 90mm, and 135mm and all relatively fast lenses (mostly summicrons with a summarit here and there) but not one of them is aspherical. I loved these lenses while shooting film and still love them on the M10, but it is a ROYAL pain to have to mash buttons up and down and in and out of menus to set the M10 to the right lens designation every time I switch lenses and to be perfectly honest, I haven't noticed a difference in the images. I tried ordering new bayonets that were "codeable" on ebay and turns out the screw patterns weren't the same. And at this point, I'm wondering if I should bother at all? Is there really a difference in a coded vs non-coded lens of this vintage besides getting exif data out of the shot? I've seen the magenta color shift in some of the images posted here and elsewhere, but damn if I can find it in my shots. So... are these lenses too old to code? Just the wider ones? Do I even care?
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