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PLZ

  1. nice to know they're developing new film cameras
  2. In a recent interview in Austrian Der Standard Peter Karbe was asked which camera and lens would be his preferred choice. The answer was "not an easy one", but it would be M11 and APO-Summicron 35. "STANDARD: One last question: If you had to choose a combo, what would be your camera and your lens of choice? Karbe: The M11 and APO-Summicron 35mm. But that's one of those questions... which of your children do you like best? If I had to choose, I would use this combination." Here is the link to the full (unlocked) Peter Karbe Der Standard interview (in German) by Mickey Manakas, where he speaks about the compromise in building the Noctilux f/0.95 and its evident flaws, the "Leica Look" myth, his views on smartphone photography, his pride in personally calculating the optical formula for Summilux 50 ASPH and many other cool topics: https://www.derstandard.at/story/2000144541043/leitender-optikexperte-bei-leica-wir-waren-vorreiter-bei-der-digitalisierung
  3. Hat jemand schon das Voigtlander NOKTON Vintage Line 35mm f/1.5 Aspherical VM und kann hier über seine Erfahrungen berichten?
  4. https://www.tumblr.com/tokyo-camera-style/735642699701600256/totem-pole-photo-gallery-shinjuku-a-custom Repaint by Shueido. (Photo: Screenshot)
  5. I processed the image in order give the mood of autumn popping in.
  6. Motivations After purely shooting on digital for 5 months, I shift a bit back to film because my dad has the passion to develop and scan film after his retirement (He now develops C41, ECN-2 and E-6!). Also I bought a CLA’d silver M4 recently and now I enjoy it more than my black M10-P. I mainly use the 35mm or 40mm focal lengths. I have a LLL 35/2 8E replica and the Minolta 40/2. Both of them are excellent on digital and film. As I mainly shoot with digital before, the F2 is enough to cover my needs in indoor and streets at night. Now with film, I’d like to push 5207 or 5219 to 800 to maintain my ability to do street photography in city night. I am confident to zone focus at F2.8 now but at night even at F2 I have to use slower shutter speeds than 1/125, which is hard to freeze the motions. I am considering to try a F1.4 lens. My thoughts about the F1.4 35mm lenses… Summilux-es are too much for my wallet to afford currently. I know the FLE and ASPH luxes are great lenses in IQ but they are also much bulkier than the F2-crons IMO. The compactness is an important consideration for me. The Nokton 35/1.4 is a famous lens—for its budget friendliness and the debate over its IQ and focus shift issues, I guess? And its focus shift make it a less proper lens on the digital sensor. But if I pair it with my M4 it would be fine right? The next doubt is the build quality of this lens. I’m afraid buying a brand new one and find it does not focus properly…and I am totally fine with a pre-owned one if it has been proven to have no issues about focusing.
  7. Hello all, Is there something I am missing about the 500 piece edition Summicron 35mm in b. chrome with red markings? Otherwise it seems like a lot of extra money for some red ink ;-@) But it does look great.... Ciao Tadeyev
  8. Die ganze Serie gibts hier: https://www.flickr.com/photos/derphilipppp/albums/72157659340180141 Leica M6 - 35mm Summicron IV - Kodak Portra 160 Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr
  9. A small series I did on the Austrian tradition of "Almabtrieb". This is just a selection of pictures from the full series here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/derphilipppp/albums/72157659340180141 Leica M6 - 35mm Summicron IV - Kodak Portra 160 In case you don't know what an "Almabtrieb" is: The "Almabtrieb", which translates from German as: "drive from the mountain pasture", is an annual event in the alpine regions in Europe, referring to a cow train in autumn. During summer, all over the alpine regions cow herds feed on alpine pastures ("Almen" or "Alpen") high up in the mountains (a practice known as transhumance). In numbers, these amount to about 500,000 cows in Austria, 380,000 in Switzerland and 50,000 in Germany. While there is often some movement of cattle between the Almen during the summer, there is usually one concerted cow train in autumn to bring the cows to their stables down in the valley. This typically takes place in late September or early October. If there were no accidents on the Alm during the summer, in many areas the cows are decorated elaborately, and the cow train is celebrated with music and dance events in the towns and villages. Upon arrival in the valley, joint herds from multiple farmers are sorted in the Viehscheid, and each cow is returned to its owner. Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr Almabtrieb by philipp wortmann, auf Flickr
  10. Sharing some shots I made on the streets of Vietnam. Duong Lam Ancient Village, Hanoi, Vietnam by Days of My Ordinary Life (Vincent), on Flickr Leica M7, 35/2 Summicron ASPH, Tri-X
  11. Hallo Zusammen, zufällig habe ich bei meinem Leica Händler folgende Kombinationen heute in der Hand gehabt: Kombi 1: Leica M3 mit Leica Summicron-M 35mm mit Brille (V1) und Kombi 2: Leica M4-P mit Zeiss Biogon 35mm 2,8 (Neuware) Preislich liegen die Kombis nah beieinander. Jetzt meine Frage. Ich möchte in das M-System analog einsteigen. Bei Kombi 1 stört mich nur die Brille. Bei Kombi 2 nur das es ein Zeiss Objektiv ist, obwohl ich die Qualität von Zeiss kenne. Denn eigentlich finde ich gehört an eine Leica ein Leica Objektiv. Was würdet Ihr wählen und warum? Beide Kombis sind voll funktionstüchtig und die gebrauchten Komponenten würde ich als A-B Zustand bewerten. Danke für eure Anregungen und Meinungen. Besten Gruß und allzeit gut Licht Michael
  12. I took some photos at the Whitney the other day. This photo of Shapolsky et al displayed some peculiar focus on the right side of the photo. Looking at the text, it looks like there is motion blur on the text on the right, but not on the text on the left. Is this just a common type of focus blur on wide-open, wide-angle shots? Or could there be something going on with the lens or camera (M9)?
  13. Dear All, I just bought a Leica M9 and have been testing it out only to find a thing red line appearing on the right hand side of all my photographs. Sample attached. Does anyone know why this is happening? Also, my viewfinder is a bit strange. When I am using it I am able to align the ghost square over the square, but other times I have nothing to align meaning when I am looking through the viewfinder i see what is in front of me only. I have to take a couple of unfocused pics to get the focus point to appear again or switch off/on the camera. Has this happened to anyone before?
  14. They say eyes are windows to the soul, cats prove it to be true. Leica M9. Summilux 35mm ASPH. Thanks for looking.
  15. I have a real-world hands on review of the new Leica Summilux-TL 35mm f/1.4 with some samples. Let me know what you think! https://fstoppers.com/originals/hands-new-leica-summilux-tl-35mm-f14-lens-121465
  16. Lange keine Gelegenheit mehr gehabt auf Reisen spazieren zu gehen. Letztes Wochenende hatte ich dann endlich mal wieder die Mögleichkeit dazu. Nachfolgend ein paar Eindrücke aus Amsterdam. Alle Bilder mit M240 und 35mm Summilux FLE: -1- -2-
  17. Some photos I took in Joshua Tree NP while on a trip through the southwestern US with my trusty M6, 35 Summicron and a whole bunch of Kodak TriX. If I remeber correctly I think I also used an orange or yellow filter on these shots .... More here: http://www.philippwortmann.com/southwestbw or on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/derphilipppp/albums/72157651692347201
  18. A couple photographs of Point Reyes Lighthouse on Kodak Tri-X 400. Leica M6 & 35mm Summicron IV plus yellow filter
  19. I'm planning to get a 35mm soon. Been thinking of getting the new Summarit 2.4 because of the price, size and its new. However, I'm also considering the 35mm Summicron ASPH. I currently own the 50mm Summicron - Love it. But its to narrow for me, thus I need a 35mm. I'm a bit hesitant to get the 35mm Summicron ASPH for the reason that my 50mm Summicron flares a lot. I also heard that the 35mm Summicron ASPH also has a problem with flare. So which one is it? please help.
  20. Hi, I'm currently in the market for a 35mm lens. I own a 50mm Summicron and a voigtlander 21mm. is the 35mm Summicron ASPH worth it? Does it flare a lot? is there a big difference between the 50mm and 35mm?
  21. I'd like to get 35mm lens, likely the Summicron asph or Summilux FLE for my M240 to fill in a gap in my current lineup. The lenses I currently have are a 50mm Summilux (II) from 1962, 90mm Summarit and 21mm SEM. The lens would be general purpose: travel, landscape, street. Sometimes I need something a bit wider than 50 but not as wide as 21. I feel that 50mm will probably remain my most used lens so even though the 35 Lux is a fantastic lens and I like the look of the images from it, I'm wondering if the Summicron would be the better choice. I've tested these lenses in the past but haven't really shot with a 35mm to know how much I'm going to use it. The Lux would be an expensive choice to sit unused in my camera bag. I've read a lot of good reviews on both the 35mm Cron and Lux. This raises another idea, overall I'm happy with my 50mm Summilux. My father bought it with an M3 in 1962. But if I'm primarily a 50mm photographer should I consider investing in a new 50mm Summilux asph? I prefer the color in the modern 50mm and it's probably sharper, especially at f1.4. My Mandler 50mm Lux has what I would describe as a greenish cast compared to a red/pink cast in the modern 50mm asph. I'd love to hear some other users opinions on this. I'll be going to Berlin soon and hope to do some shopping there! Mike
  22. I just purchased a used Summilux-M 35mm f/1.4 ASPH from the NYC Leica Store. I got it for a really good deal, basically $1000 off. For some reason it seems to be a bit greasy. Also the glass looked like it had a smudge and I used my lens pen to clean it. It then greased up the front element. What should I do? Return, or just clean? If clean what do you guys recommend.
  23. I just bought a 35mm Summicron pre-asph 7-element (aka Bokeh king), but I prefer a round hood. Some sellers claims the 12504 hood compatible with this lens and some claims not, I'm so confused.
  24. I have a 35mm summicron v4 and a 12504 clip-on round lens hood, they work pretty well together, but the hood cannot be fixed in a position, it sometimes rotates, it's not a big deal but this will potentially scratch the barrel which will affect the resale value a lot. The original square doesn't have this problem it can be fixed tightly, but I really like the look of 12504. Is there any way to stop it from rotating? Thanks!!!
  25. The price for both of these lenses is similar enough that I'm considering them both.. Actually, what I'm considering is more like this. CZ 35mm Biogon f/2 + CV Nokon 40 1.4 or Nokton 35mm 1.2 ASPH II I need a lens for indoors, when visiting friends, etc.. and I need to to be relatively fast, ~ f/1.4 or so. I'm a big fan of Zeiss, the 50 1.4 on my 5D Mk III was my most used lens. I've read fantastic things about the Biogon f/2 and comparing the sharpness of the Biogon @ f/2 and the Nokton 1.2 @ f/2, they're pretty evenly matched (according to what I read via Sean Reid). Obviously the Biogon isn't that fast, so I was thinking of pairing it with a Nokton 40 1.4 for those indoor uses, while the Biogon would be for mainly outdoor usage (I had also tested an 35mm Ultron 1.7 but it was a bit softer wide-open then I was hoping). I'm picking up an M9 + CZ Planar 50mm f/2 shortly (that decision is finally made!), so unfortunately I do not have a ton of money left over for 35mm.. $1500-$1600 is probably it, so unfortunately any fast Leica's are out of reach. Is there anyone out there who has used both the Nokton 35 1.2 II and the Biogon f/2 and decided to keep one or the other (or has any input on the two?) I realize they have different applications, and I'm a bit worried the Nokton 1.2 might be just a large and unwieldy lens that works great in lower-light situations, but end up being not so useful for an every-day, general 35mm lens. I think the Biogon + Nokton 40 1.4 might be a better combo, but it's almost $400-$500 more. Thoughts, comments, suggestions?
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