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nice to know they're developing new film cameras

In a recent interview in Austrian Der Standard Peter Karbe was asked which camera and lens would be his preferred choice. The answer was "not an easy one", but it would be M11 and APO-Summicron 35. "STANDARD: One last question: If you had to choose a combo, what would be your camera and your lens of choice? Karbe: The M11 and APO-Summicron 35mm. But that's one of those questions... which of your children do you like best? If I had to choose, I would use this combination." Here is the link to the full (unlocked) Peter Karbe Der Standard interview (in German) by Mickey Manakas, where he speaks about the compromise in building the Noctilux f/0.95 and its evident flaws, the "Leica Look" myth, his views on smartphone photography, his pride in personally calculating the optical formula for Summilux 50 ASPH and many other cool topics: https://www.derstandard.at/story/2000144541043/leitender-optikexperte-bei-leica-wir-waren-vorreiter-bei-der-digitalisierung

Hat jemand schon das Voigtlander NOKTON Vintage Line 35mm f/1.5 Aspherical VM und kann hier über seine Erfahrungen berichten?

https://www.tumblr.com/tokyo-camera-style/735642699701600256/totem-pole-photo-gallery-shinjuku-a-custom Repaint by Shueido. (Photo: Screenshot)

I processed the image in order give the mood of autumn popping in.

Motivations After purely shooting on digital for 5 months, I shift a bit back to film because my dad has the passion to develop and scan film after his retirement (He now develops C41, ECN-2 and E-6!). Also I bought a CLA’d silver M4 recently and now I enjoy it more than my black M10-P. I mainly use the 35mm or 40mm focal lengths. I have a LLL 35/2 8E replica and the Minolta 40/2. Both of them are excellent on digital and film. As I mainly shoot with digital before, the F2 is enough to cover my needs in indoor and streets at night. Now with film, I’d like to push 5207 or 5219 to 800 to maintain my ability to do street photography in city night. I am confident to zone focus at F2.8 now but at night even at F2 I have to use slower shutter speeds than 1/125, which is hard to freeze the motions. I am considering to try a F1.4 lens. My thoughts about the F1.4 35mm lenses… Summilux-es are too much for my wallet to afford currently. I know the FLE and ASPH luxes are great lenses in IQ but they are also much bulkier than the F2-crons IMO. The compactness is an important consideration for me. The Nokton 35/1.4 is a famous lens—for its budget friendliness and the debate over its IQ and focus shift issues, I guess? And its focus shift make it a less proper lens on the digital sensor. But if I pair it with my M4 it would be fine right? The next doubt is the build quality of this lens. I’m afraid buying a brand new one and find it does not focus properly…and I am totally fine with a pre-owned one if it has been proven to have no issues about focusing.

Hallo, Ich habe ein Problem mit meiner Leica Af-C1. Obwohl ich bereits fast den ganzen Film benutzt/aufgebraucht habe, springt die Anzeige auf einmal von 33 benutzten Bildern auf 1. Wird sich der Film trotzdem automatisch aufspulen? Kann ich normal weiterfotografieren? Freue mich über jede helfende Anmerkung:) Lg Leo

I like walking around the corner and surprised how beautiful these muddy places can be especially after rainy weather when colours are so much more deeper and attractive

cool camera

https://www.leitz-auction.com/auction/en/auktion34/auction42/article/424.html Couldn't find any more details online, i guess the Navy used this with an M4?

Hello all. In my search for a small fast 35mm lens for my M-E, I just received a brand new Voigtlander Classic 35mm 1.4 MC II. First impressions are fairly positive, I really do love the way it renders. However... It seems to focus beyond infinity. Which is to say that the hard stop at infinity is slightly out of focus, and I must back up just a bit to bring everything into focus. Anyone else experiencing this? This is my first dance with Voigtlander and I'm wondering if it isn't just a quality control issue. Thoughts?

Could not believe there was no thread for images made with Summicron 35 ASPHERICAL V1 and ASPHERICAL V2 (also known as Summicron V5 and V6). So here it is. Please indicate whether you used ASPH V1 or ASPH V2 and what camera. IMPORTANT NOTE: Please do NOT post any PRE-ASPH Summicron V1 and V2 images and NO APO Summicron V7 images - the latter has its own thread here. Summicron 35 ASPH V1 and M10-R.

I use the Summarit with the sun visor. It is a Leica UV a filter 13004. Since there is no lens cap that fits the lens hood, I wonder if, and if so, the image quality (coloration and sharpness) suffers from using the filter. Or is there a possibility that the filter has negative effects depending on the weather (summer, winter, sun, rain, temperature fluctuations)? It only serves as protection, because unfortunately it has already happened to me that I have touched the glas of the lens, when I take it out of my pocket. As a camera I use the M10 R. I hope your experiences can help me to answer this question. Thank you in advance for your support.

Hi, i love my 35mm Summicron v2 (1970) but since i had to take pictures at my brothers wedding i bought the 35mm Summarit 2.5 second hand to have a lens that is more predictable than the Summicron. You can't beat the Summicrons handling and built quality in my opinion. I really love the Summicron on my M6, but on my M240 it is pretty unpredictable. Sometimes you get glowy edges / highlights, sometimes not. I didn't want to risk anything especially with the brides white wedding dress. The center is sharp on the Summicron, the corners and even the area around the center are / is pretty soft even at F8. Vignetting is kinda strong but this doesn't bother me. Backlight is it's biggest enemy - you can’t take pictures facing the sun because the whole image is gonna get completely white. The Summarit is an aspherical lens even if it wasn't marketed this way by Leica. Corners are sharp, not much vignetting and the focus throw is the shortest i've ever seen. It is only a 2.5 lens versus the Summicrons 2.0 (a half stop) but the subject isolation seems to be quite the same between the two lenses. I did a little comparison because maybe somebody is interested in buying a Leica lens in this price range. The Summarit costs about 1200€-1300€, just like the Summicron v2. The size and speed is almost the same, so in my eyes these two are pretty comparable in some aspects - even if they are almost 40 years apart. If you compare the images the Summicron looks pretty bad like it had some kind of cheap plastic lenses. The rendering is way different (Summarit warm, Summicron pretty cool). I’m using Mastin Labs presets in capture one and i really do like the Summicron images because the look some kind of analog. I can’t keep both lenses so i have to decide which one has to go. Summicron pro: - small - f2 - sharp in the center - a lot of character - 52 years old - it’s a Summicron, a piece of history and i own it now for almost 10 years Summicron con: - sometimes glowy - pretty bad with backlight / flares - sometimes „dull“ images Summarit pro: - sharp in the center and the corners - super fast focus throw - very nice flaring while shooting backlight scenes, you can shoot straight into the sun Summarit con: - f2.4 - images look really clean, maybe too clean - way less charakter I’ve considered selling them both including my 50mm Summicron v4 and getting a 35mm Summicron v4 to get the best compromise. Small, fast, maybe sharp corners, classic look - i don’t know about flaring and leica glow. The version 2 glow is the biggest issue in my eyes - what do you think? Here’s the link to the flickr-album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/blacksciencelabs/albums/72177720301530475 (I hope it is okay to post a flickr link)

Hello everyone, here's my review of the new Carl Zeiss Contax G Planar 35mm f/2 FUNLEADER conversion to Leica M. This is my first review here so I am not used to the technicalities of posting, please forgive me if I readjust things after I post. FUNLEADER Contax G35 to Leica M Conversions I have included the 7artisans 35mm f/1.4 M and the Voigtlander VM 40mm f/1.2, the only lenses in the 35mm zone I own. Disclaimers: 1. none of the lens makers / converters have been involved in these tests and I have personally purchased all 3 lenses, none of them have been provided. 2. the FUNLEADER link above contains an affiliate link with a code that will get you a 5% discount (used to be 15%, I hope they bring that back). If you purchase using the link above FUNLEADER says I will receive 10%. 3. all opinions expressed here are my own and, just like with anything in life (especially photography equipment!), you may have a different one. A few bullet points about the tests: - done on my Leica M-P typ 240 - done on a tripod with a 2 second timer to hopefully dampen most vibrations - no filters or hoods were used and lenses were extremely clean - captured at M-P's base ISO: 200 (with the exception of a few frames captured at 1.2 and 1.4 because 1/4000 was too slow to keep equal exposures so I set the ISO to PULL 100) - exposure was manual and the exposure time was adjusted accordingly with every aperture change (generally 2/3 stop) in order to hopefully maintain an even exposure between the samples - white balance was on AUTO - all focus was EXTREMELY CAREFULLY done using LIVE VIEW at f/2 for each lens, using both the focus peaking and my own eyes to make sure I get the best possible focus - focus was redone with every lens change - the 40mm was repositioned so that the main subject filled roughly the same size in the photos (as much as possible, the infinity tests obviously show the difference in focal length) - most tests were taken all all apertures but since this ended up requiring so much work I only included up to f/8, to be honest I don't think anything past that is relevant - all samples processed in Capture 1 PRO with the default output sharpening for screen (any image processor will apply some sort of sharpening from DNG to JPG) - I am sharing a Google Drive folder with all DNGs, JPGs, comparisons and misc images, all full size. Please check them out and use them for free, a credit would be nice if you end up posting them. PART 1 / 5 A morsel of history: if you're reading this you most likely know what this lens is, otherwise this info can be easily found online. The G35/2 is supposed to be the "lesser performer" of the Contax G suite, the internet is funny like that, some person deemed it once as not being as stellar as the G45/2 (which is whispered to be one of the best lenses in 35mm photography history) and the internet has taken that and transformed it into "not a good lens" kind of rumour. I am here to prove otherwise. Here's a G35 / G45 specs comparison: This 35 together with the Hologon 16mm are the only ones I do not own in G mount. I have shot all the other ones (21/2.8, 28/2.8, 45/2, 90/2.8) on my Contax G2 and adapted on my Sony A7R3 with a cheap Ulata adapter. They are sharp, very sharp wide open. And so light. Build quality: without further ado, I think FUNLEADER and Mr. Ding have done an amazing job here: the conversion is incredible, so tiny and lovely, with a great weight and feel. The focus action is nice and smooth and the little focus tab suits the lens. The black paint version is really beautiful, I have always been a black paint / lacquer fan, hence my M-P. This version will get patina with use (unless you're Lenny Kravitz and give it a good rub to look well used). The "gold" version has lovely sharp black engravings and a black focus tab. The focus tabs are really nice, placed at the perfect position where, when pointed straight downwards, the lenses focus at 4 feet / 1.2 meters. I also purchased a "gold" helicoid as I am planning to do a conversion myself. The "gold" helicoid feels like brass and it's a bit of a fingerprint magnet. The helicoid has "MR. DING" engraved on the mount. Pretty cool. I did a bit of digging and "Mr. Ding" is their master craftsman, maybe having been part of MGR Production. They are also behind the Bresson Viewfinder magnifier, which I happen to have on my M-P and love. I would love to find out more about Mr. Ding, if anyone has info please do share. The weight of the helicoid is 206g / 7.26oz and the whole lens is 266g / 9.38g The lens did have a plastic ring glued on the front, on top of the original Carl Zeiss from markings, but I removed it easily and left no marks. Sorry Mr. Ding, I prefer the original Carl Zeiss engravings. The original lens hood of the G35 / G45 fits nicely, but I have the champagne version and I personally don't think it works with either the black or the gold version. I might spray paint it with a glossy enamel. Honestly, it looks amazing on the M-P. It is a gem of a little lens and a great performer. Customer service: excellent, very responsive, I had quite a few questions for them and they replied very quickly. Packing: excellent, pragmatic, not fancy. Shipping: wowsers, the lens was in my hand in Vancouver BC Canada in 6 days, dayum! PART 2 / 5: colour, focal length, sharpness close and mid distance Two notes about colour and focal length: - colour - the G35/2 renders the most accurate and neutral colours, next is the VM 40/1.2, while the 7artisans 35/1.4 M renders quite warm - focal length - the G35/2 is a little wider than the 7artisans 35/1.4 M, I wonder what their real focal lengths are. Please do share if you happen to know. Sharpness: the G35/2 is very sharp wide open, it nearly matches the VM 40/1.2 at f2, actually honestly we are splitting hairs between the G35/2 and VM 40/1.2. Keep in mind that the VM starts at 1.2, so from a lens design pov it has a lot of room to be sharp at f2. It's quite a feat how consistent the G35/2 is all the way up to the widest apertures. The G35/2 is sharper than the 7artisans 35/1.4 M at every aperture. I was surprised as well. In all honestly, I really love the 7artisans lens, it has a really nice 3d pop and the built is absolutely amazing. Check out these 100%s of this starling at f2! I used live view, there's no way to nail that in the viewfinder patch, I also took a bunch of shots and these were the best 4, maybe out of 12 or so. 100% full images for context I have done a few test sessions but not included all here (so much to process and compare), so here are a few. Before every comparison chart you will see a half size G35/2 image at f2, for no reason really other than to show you what the whole scene looked like. Session 1 close: Session 1 mid distance: Session 4 close: Session 4 mid distance: Session 5 close: Session 6 close: PART 3 / 5: sharpness at infinity Session 3 infinity (center and corner): Session 7 infinity (center and corner): PART 4 / 5: bokeh and conclusion Session 1 mid distance: Session 2 mid distance: Session 6 close: Vignetting: yea a bit, but nothing out of the ordinary at large apertures. See for yourself. Focus shift: I did not test for it, but from my walks it seems to be fine. CONCLUSION: The Carl Zeiss Contax G Planar 35mm f/2 is a gem. Coming from great heritage, it is now encased in an amazing conversion from FUNLEADER for our Leicas. The G35/2 is an honest lens, you won't find clinical sharpness here, but since you're reading this you're probably not looking for that, but for the resurrection of a highly underrated Carl Zeiss optic. The G35/2 renders the world gently with neutral colour rendition, pleasant bokeh and a sprinkle of pop. The tiny form has a great weight and feel and it simply looks incredible on a Leica. The black paint version is shiny and will brass while the "gold" version has lovely sharp black engravings (bit of a fingerprint magnet though). I honestly look at my camera sitting on my desk now and hear the whispers: "take me out and make photographs". Well done FUNLEADER and Mr. Ding, hat's off to you. Just like the original little piece of history it now protects and focuses, the FUNLEADER conversion will also be remembered as a gem amongst the connoisseurs. FUNLEADER Contax G35 to Leica M Conversions I hope you enjoy the test results, please let me know if you have any thoughts, suggestions and questions. Here is the Google Drive folder: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-mgIUEIScjebkdNY-GAouTlJE3FTCrDy I am leaving you with a bunch of samples, enjoy. PART 5 / 5 samples All the following samples are just snaps from my walks and I barely spent a minute on some of them in C1 f2 f5.6 f8 f2 f2 f2 f5.6 f5.6 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f4 (i think) f2 f2 Cheers!

I would like to buy a new 35mm wide-angle for my recently acquired M2. For the moment my budget restricts me to Zeiss or Voightlander glass. I was thinking about the Zeiss Biogon 35mm f2 but I understand, because of its size, part of the lens blocks the 35mm view. For me this is unacceptable. As I am unable to try all the 35mm lenses, my question is what 35mm wide-angle lenses from either Zeiss or Voightlander are available that do not obstruct the 35mm framelines of my M2? I presume the smaller 35mm f2.5 Voightlander VM Skopar and the 35mm f2.8 Zeiss are OK? I would rather not use a separate viewfinder just now although it could be an option at a later date. This is a post from a new member (and new to Leica) so forgive me if the topic has been raised elsewhere. Thanks.

Hi all. Receiving my silver M11 (first-time M user). While I am figuring out what first Leica lens to buy, I would like to buy a couple Voigtlander lenses to get me started. What Voigtlander lenses do you recommend? I know it depends on many factors. Here is what I am looking for. 28mm (or 35mm), 50mm, and 70mm, in not particular order. I looked at the Cameraquest chart, but so confusing. Maybe start with 2lenses, 28mm and a 50mm. Thanks for the advice and feedback i know this is a Leica forum and hoping I don’t upset anyone asking this question here. 😊

Portrait of Appalachian Bootlegger, The Mountain.

Here is an interesting discussion on the 28mm vis-à-vis 35mm lens for documentary photography: Focal Length Feud: 28mm vs 35mm for Telling a story – by David Babaian and Simon King https://emulsive.org/articles/focal-length-feud-28-35 I have used both and at the end of the day it seems to me that either will work well, if you are willing to fine tune your shooting technique for each lens. Thoughts?

Or have they secretly improved the 35m Summilux formula? Or maybe it's a curvature of field thing? (on an M9) https://www.lemondedelaphoto.com/Le-pique,5007.html (on an M11) https://www.ephotozine.com/article/leica-summilux-m-35mm-f-1-4-asph-lens-review-35877/performance

So I recently got (for lack of a better word) scammed into buying a Summaron 35 2.8 with a cracked goggle (let's not get into it). The lens functions okay, but I'm wondering what my chances are of replacing the glass on the front of the goggle and what this might cost. The lens is over 60 years old, so I'm not very hopeful but wanted to check anyway. Thanks in advance for any responses.

Apologies if there are similar threads to this one - I haven't been able to find answers to my questions specifically. I recently sold my M3 since I'm looking for a body that accommodates wider lenses and has a hotshoe. I don't need a built in meter and am on a budget, so I wouldn't consider the M6. I also find the M5 too bulky, so this leaves the M4-2 and M4-P. I will mainly be shooting 28mm and 35mm lenses, so the M4-P seems ideal since it provides framelines for both. My first question is therefore whether the extra cost is warranted for 28mm framelines, or if I should opt for an M4-2 and use the entire viewfinder to approximate the 28mm focal length. Also, since there are few "user condition" examples of both models available online, I'm wondering how reliable the hotshoe is on these cameras - I use flash a lot and problems in this department would be a total dealbreaker for me. Would it make a tangible difference to opt for a late M4-P, or is it safe to assume that the hotshoe will function well in most cases regardless of model or year? My instincts tell me the M4-P is the ideal camera, but since there are a few M4-2's available for very attractive prices, I'm hoping someone can convince me otherwise!

My main goal is shoot B&W (but not only) on digital cameras. Trying to choose beetwen a 1962 Summaron f/2.8 and a 1964 Summicron V1, both look in very nice condition, the price diference is 700€. From what I`ve read here, these would be my favourite options. Opinions welcome, considering the price diference too. Thanks

I heard a rumor in January that Leica was making a 35mm Noctilux lens. Was curious if anyone had heard anything more about this? Although I’m happy with my 35mm Summicron I think a Noctilux would be super cool to add to my bag. The size of it would be my only concern, as the bigger lenses aren’t appealing to me.

Anyone tried it yet ? looks quite nice in some of the images online https://bluemooncameracodex.com/film-fridays/ffcinestillbwxx https://cinestillfilm.com/collections/bwxx-dou