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Found 18 results

  1. I'm having a terrible time printings some portraits for a gallery show. I'm using Ilford Galerie Prestige Gold Fibre Silk paper, 13x19, and printing with an Epson 1430 Artisan printer. I'm printing through LightRoom, using the Ilford profile for that paper. I've turned off color correction for the printer itself and am using the color settings in LR. I'm using Relative Intent. Here is an example of my digital file: http://www.pbase.com/tinamanley/image/166471709/large Here is an iPhone photo of the actual print: http://www.pbase.com/tinamanley/image/167279204 See the greenish shadow on her jaw? All of my portraits are printing with these green shadows somewhere. I've tried adjusting the color balance of the whole photo which makes it too pink and I've tried adjusting the toning of just the shadows which doesn't seem to help. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This is driving me crazy!! TIA Tina
  2. Ladies and gents, I searched the net since quite some time for experiences and examples that demonstrate the performance and quality of Leica M10 or SL files for large printing. With large prints I mean sizes up to 150cm (60") on the long side. There are lots of comparisons and reviews between cameras of different makes, e.g. between SL and Hasselblad X1D, but they concentrate mainly on usability or spec-sheet resolution etc. They don't say anything about the final product, which is the print. Print quality from files of a particular camera is nearly never mentioned or discussed. I would like to ask the community here for experiences with printing large from Leica full frame cameras such as M10, SL, 240 or even M9. I know, many of the answers will state "quality is subjective", "depends on viewing distance" or "depends on expectation", etc. But maybe this thread is able to shed some more light on people's experience. I'm sure there must be some prints out there of such sizes. Did you send your SL or M images for example to services such as whitewall.com to produce such large prints? Do you print yourself? How do M or SL files hold up in a 40x60" print? Are they totally inferior to a print from digital medium format... ? Cheers, Peter
  3. Ladies and gents, I searched the net since quite some time for experiences and examples that demonstrate the performance and quality of Leica M10 or SL files for large printing. With large prints I mean sizes up to 150cm (60") on the long side. There are lots of comparisons and reviews between cameras of different makes, e.g. between SL and Hasselblad X1D, but they concentrate mainly on usability or spec-sheet resolution etc. They don't say anything about the final product, which is the print. Print quality from files of a particular camera is nearly never mentioned or discussed. I would like to ask the community here for experiences with printing large from Leica full frame cameras such as M10, SL, 240 or even M9. I know, many of the answers will state "quality is subjective", "depends on viewing distance" or "depends on expectation", etc. But maybe this thread is able to shed some more light on people's experience. I'm sure there must be some prints out there of such sizes. Did you send your SL or M images for example to services such as whitewall.com to produce such large prints? Do you print yourself? How do M or SL files hold up in a 40x60" print? Are they totally inferior to a print from digital medium format... ? Cheers, Peter
  4. Hi all, Apols if this a dumb question.....after 11 months with the SL, I am ready to get a few prints run off...just to put up in the house. My question is whether I can print from a DNG file? I know they are larger in MB terms but setting that asked, I like the look of some of my DNG files. Thanks.
  5. Here is an interesting story of how one man's photographic journey went full circle, bringing him back to his roots in film photography. He shows some interesting images along with the essay : http://emulsive.org/articles/return-to-film/my-return-to-film-adib-mufty
  6. I'm still investigating darkroom printing and have been surfing YT videos. I found this one and was intrigued that he circumvented many of the steps that folks use (such as separate tongs for each chemical and having only one safelight and making sure that the safelight is well away from the paper. I didn't spot any more than that but he sure made it seem like it was very routine without a lot o fuss. I'm just trying to get my bearings, gain information and know as much as I can before diving in so I'll ask; what is your take on this guy's video?
  7. Hi, Seriously thinking of buying a Leica 109, but have a concern about the 12 mp. How large is it possible to print without seeing deterioration of image quality. Regards.
  8. I am having problems when trying to print with the new Epson SC-P800. After setting it up, the only that comes out, when trying to print an A4 image, is a small printed strip of only 2 cm wide . Then the printer enters in a busy mode, and nothing more happens. The program: Lightroom 6. I do have the Yosemite 10.10.5 OS installed in my Mac, and of course every driver etc, as it should be. BTW, trying to print from Word also failed... Thank you in advance for your help! Cheers from Barcelona, Manolo
  9. Hello everyone, I recently bought a Leitz Focomat II and discovered that when printing from the 60mm Focotar lens that two dark lines forming a triangle appear on either side of my prints. I also noticed that there are four light spots hitting the rim of the lens (these increase in size when you open up the aperture) and 'Im pretty sure this is related to the problem. I'v looked at the enlarger from every angle and checked that things are all in their proper place I have attached images to demonstrate what I'm describing above. You can see one of the dark lines forming a triangle clearly in the sky above the lion's head (the same is mirrored on the other side of the print but harder to see), and there are a couple shots of the light spots hitting the rim of the lens. Could anyone please tell me what might be causing these light flares and how I could fix the problem. All insights are greatly appreciated! Rene
  10. Hello everyone, I recently bought a Leitz Focomat II and discovered that when printing from the 60mm Focotar lens that two dark lines forming a triangle appear on either side of my prints. I also noticed that there are four light spots hitting the rim of the lens (these increase in size when you open up the aperture) and I'm pretty sure this is related to the problem. I'v looked at the enlarger from every angle and checked that things are all in their proper place I have attached images to demonstrate what I'm describing above. You can see the two dark lines forming a triangle clearly in the sky above the lion's head (the same is mirrored on the other side of the print but harder to see), and there are a couple shots of the light spots hitting the rim of the lens. Could anyone please tell me what might be causing these light flares and how I could fix the problem. All insights are greatly appreciated! Rene
  11. By the number of posts of M Monochrom users, there must be at least some who have been trying to print their own images. Having looked around the forum there are a few posts here and there on M9 printing, but I would like to see if we are able to come up with some consensus on an "utlimate" printer setup for the Monochrom. The reason for this is, not only for me to get some help on picking the right hardware/software, but also to help others since the qualities of the Monochrom are not "visible" until one starts to look at the obtainable prints. Let's try to divide the topic into a number of questions, assuming we want to do it at home and that we have two different cost options (1) less than $2000 or (2) $2000-5000 including potential additional software (eg RIP) and hardware (eg calibrator). For time being, let's assume that we don't include paper and ink costs - knowing printing is expensive Moreover, let's assume that we make use of the latest versions of Photoshop and Lightroom in our existing workflows, and have a monitor like the Eizo Coloredge CG275W or NEC Spectraview Reference 241. Hence, a very good starting point for adding a matching printer setup. #1 Which printer, eg Epson 3xxx-4xxx, Canon Pixma Pro-1, would you suggest? #2 Which additional software, eg RIP, would you suggest to further push the quality of the printer? #3 Which additional hardware, eg calibrator, would you suggest to further push the quality of this setup? #4 For which types of prints will this setup be at its best/worse? Users of the Leica M Monochrom, let's help our friends to get more out of their great camera and come up with a good printer setup! /magnus A happy Swedish owner of a Leica M Monochrom Blog (Swedish): English version by Google Translate 500px: Impressions & Interpretations Flickr: Photostream
  12. I thought it would be interesting to share thoughts on how to print digital files. Many pictures only shine when printed properly on the right paper in an appropriate size! I have the feeling that in the age of digital photography many people forget to print their pictures on actual paper. With ink-jet printers reaching reasonable prices, nowadays high quality fine-art prints can be made at home. So it might be a good idea to post what kind of paper you are using for what kind of image. Well, here I go: Im currently printing on an Epson 3880 printer. Im super happy with the quality of the prints. However, i had some trouble finding the ideal paper for my BW prints. After having tried several expensive and cheap papers, I found the Canson Baryta paper: Canson Infinity - Baryta Photographique 310 When the first print came out my thought was: WOW! It has the look and feel of traditional baryta paper with a beautiful texture and depth. I find it especially great for BW photos, but also think it is a great paper for color-photos, where you want that extra punch in the finish. What is your favorite paper?
  13. Hello all, I am wondering if anyone here can help me resolve some issues after upgrading to Lion. I am using CS5 on a Macbook and printing on an Epson Sylus Photo R2400. I recently upgraded to OSX 10.7 (from 10.58 if this matters). When I compare a photo that I printed before the upgrade with one printed after the upgrade (using the same paper and profile and the file has not been edited between printings), the one printed in 10.7 has a slight magenta cast (the original print has pastel greenish blues; the one printed from 10.7 is more greyish violet). The original print matches the calibrated monitor better as well. I am using photoshop to manage colors, and, as far as I can tell with the new driver, printer color management is turned off (this seems to happen when the settings are selected in the photoshop print window). I have read that there were potential issues with drivers, but I have cleaned out the Epson folder in my system library, reset the printing system, and reloaded the printer with newly downloaded drivers from Epson. None of this seems to change the output. It may be possible that the new Epson driver yields different color from the same file/profile combination, but this strikes me as unlikely. It may also be that there was some nozzle clogging in the original prints that, once cleared, has resulted in the color shift, but the number of consistent prints and timing of the shift makes this unlikely as well. I am tempted to get a custom profile for the printer to address the match issue, but if there is some software glitch that is causing the shift, am not sure this is the right solution either. Does anyone have any advice as to how to resolve this issue? Thanks
  14. I received LFI 1/2011, this morning. As usual, it is beautifully printed. I should like to emulate this particular semi-matt, textureless effect with my Epson 3800. Does anyone have suggestions for possible inkjet paper equivalents (heavier, ideally)? Many thanks, John
  15. Hi, I'm relatively new to the process of selling my prints. I was wondering if anyone could give me a basic walkthrough of how it works. Everything from Copywriting my photos to printing and selling.Im still in the relatively smallish photo industry, I'm thinking postcards or 5x7's. Thanks
  16. Hi All, Wonder if any of the people shooting and printing black and white could tell me where I could find spotting pens for retouching traditional prints in the UK? When I was at college we used packs of varying shades, but I can't remember what they were called now and it seems that photographic retailers only want to stock products related to inkjet printing these days. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
  17. OK folks, I need some advice and information. I've got myself a decent scanner, and I've started to scan some of my 35mm BW negs, many of which have not been printed. And I have (so far) an A4 printer with a continuous-flow BW ink system, which works very well. And scanning, as a test, some negs that I have already got 20x16 inch bromide prints from, and making side-by-side print comparisons, I realise that I need the kind of controls - mainly dodging and burning-in - that I had in the darkroom. No doubt Photoshop will do this, but I'd be paying a lot of money for a lot of features that I just don't want, or need, so I'm not willing to go that way. I have PSE v.6, but almost the only use I make of it is for printing M8 files processed in C1, or in RPP. Can I do basic dodging and burning in PSE, maybe using graduated layers, for example (showing my almost complete ignorance here)? I can't find this in the Help file. There seems to be a v.8 now out (I use a Mac), but that's maybe no improvement. Or is there some software that is designed for people like me, who are not interested in gimmicks? I bought, optimistically, a copy of Iris, which looked promising, but it's not that stable, and the company seems to have lost interest in it, so that seems to be a dead-end. Any suggestions? David
  18. Just got my M6 today! Any suggestions on good photo printing shops in West London? Around Bond/Baker Street? Seems like all the good places are in East London. Many thanks.
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