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Found 7 results

  1. After digitizing for quite a while all my 35 mm negatives via photographing them with 1:1 macro lens, tripod, and LED light table, I decided now to get the plustek 8200i Ai scanner with SilverFast 8 software. Main reason for it was correct color calibration of color negatives. To do the color calibration manually in PS or LR is not always easy. Posting here to hear from others who use a plustek scanner with SilverFast software. So far I am very impressed by the scanner and the software. I updated to the SilverFast 8.8 version which has a lot of options - tricky part is to figure out what is mainly needed for a good color calibration of a scan and what is more optional. I prefer to use the internal settings for films to choose from - the color calibration of the scanned color negative appears fairly correct afterwards that only minimal adjustment is needed. I also like the infrared dust scan and automatic subtraction from the photo - it works really well and leaves other image parts intact. One thing I struggle with is the archive mode of the negative - the only option to save the file in RAW as DNG. I didn't find yet a way to get an automated color calibration after the negative was scanned with the archive mode. I would prefer to have the scan saved as DNG but would like to have it processed like it is offered for all the other image file modes as JPG, TIFF etc. Is there a way to do this easily? What is your best / most proficient workflow using plustek scanners and this software? Did you encounter any drawbacks?
  2. One or two shots out 36 exp will have a straight strip of light down the side. Any advice or suggestion on cause, many thanks.
  3. One or two shots out 36 exp will have a straight strip of light down the side. Any advice or suggestion on cause, many thanks.
  4. I just put a new article online about backing up photographic archives. Everything from Cloud to making negatives to preserve photographs. One thing that might surprise and amuse is storing harddrives in the bank box. A fairly inexpensive alternative to many other possibilities. http://www.overgaard.dk/the-story-behind-that-picture-0152_gb.html Enjoy!
  5. Hi Everyone I've just obtained a collection of 14 B+W 10x8 negatives, attributed Norman Parkinson in a shoot for a 1944 magazine. From the competition from other bidders and an apparent attempt by one collector to buy all of the negatives on offer, I suspect that the provenance may be genuine () but I now have the problem of safely storing the 14 10x8 negatives. Currently they are in a thin translucent paper cover typical of the time and held inside a plastic filing wallet, where they've probably been for some years. The last time I found any negatives they were in my Dad's shed , so I have no realistic idea of how to store them safely. (I've also posted this in the Collectors and Historica section, in case there is a different perspective there). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Here I want to share my experience on scanning scratched negatives. I thought it might be helpful since recently there are many questions posted on this. I've never owned an ICE capable scanner, so I had to find a solution for covering scratches on colour negatives when scanning them with my Konica Minolta film scanner. Post processing is not adequate in some cases. So 6 years back, I purchased a liquid solution called Rexton Scratch-Match from Adorama. It worked great! You just apply liberally over the frame you want to scan, it doesn't evaporate quickly and stays there. You wipe it off later, doesn't leave any residue. You can also clean the film with your favourite cleaner afterwards. 6 years fast forward, I am no longer living in the States, and similar products are not available for airmail postage due to harmful/toxic properties. So I had to find a local alternative. TURPENTINE! Yes, it is the same stuff, smells the same, and works the same, and cheaper! I read somewhere that Scratch-Match had some Chloroform (now a regulated substance) added to Turpentine. But apparently, Turpentine by itself works OK, too. I used distilled filtered Turpentine from Daler-Rowney. For better results apply with a flat painter's brush. Note that this solution doesn't help emulsion scratches. Below is the proof. I deliberately scratched (a bit too much actually) a negative strip and tested for you. Cheers, Koray
  7. These two pictures were taken with my M2. They were taken with different lenses (CV 25/4 and Summicron 40) and were developed at different labs. My question is: just what is that dark stripe at the top? Those dark stripes are also quite obvious on the negatives. I don't know what the problem is, someone please help. Thanks.
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